Juiced HyperScrambler 2 thread

[Smaug]

Looks like a lot fun, really nice! I'm surprised it has that tall of a stand over height though it doesn't look that tall. It reminds me of my old Brigs and Stratton powered minibike I had when I was a kid.

It is tall, but not as tall as my old Kawasaki KLR650, and a lot lighter, so no big deal.

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The seat lives down to its reputation, but it’s not a gas-powered sport-tourer, it had only a 30-40 mile range, so no biggie.

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I took a 27 mile ride tonight on it; got my fingers and toes nice and numb.

The high beam headlight is aimed a bit right, but there’s no way I can see to correct the aim. I remember reading a story where a guy tried to bend a bracket in the headlight but broke it, so I’m not going to tinker here yet. It’s a bummer though, because it means that you’re riding blind in the dark if you’re going more than 10 mph. It’s a very narrow high beam.

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I’m a bit disappointed in the settings. It’s quite hard to maintain 25 or 28 mph. The throttle is just too touchy. 20 is no problem. 30-32 is no problem. That’s a bit awkward, as I want to try to stay Class 3.

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In the photos, the seat looks narrow, but it still rubs the inner thighs while pedaling. No biggy; this isn’t really a pedaler.

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Here’s the tools. Those triple-tipped socket wrenches are identical. That was an interesting choice, instead of adding a 16 mm open end wrench that’s needed for the front turn signal nuts:

 

[Smaug]

2. ADD $12 Crampbuster CB-4 snap over Right Hand 1/2 Throttle This "clips over" that 1/2 throttle - and allows you to use your lower left of your palm/lower thumb bone edge tolever/control the throttle. The "use description" sounds cloudy = but once you get it and install you will understand and LOVE CRAMPBUSTER

I had one of these before when I had a motorcycle without a proper cruise control. I'm not sure if this will be justified for the eBike, but I'll keep it in mind.

3. Vibra-Tite is a admirable and top choice - however pedal-to-crank is not normally a thread-locker - normally moisture can creep into the threads from outer pedal stud side or from the inner open crank side - recommended light coat dielectric-grease or silicone-lube on the pedal stud threads to prevent electrolysis/corrosion between those male and the female-crank-threads.
Pedals DON'T loosen by riding - that's the the reason for clock-wise threads on the rider/right side and for the counter-clockwise threads on the rider/left side. However peda lstuds do GET STUCK IN THE CRANK with moisture and dielectric corrosion

I had a pedal come off on me on my heybike Ranger. I don't know why it did, but it did and I landed right on my balls. So I'm thread-locking pedals from now on. ;-)

4. Light dab of dielectric grease on throttle and display connections.

CLICK HERE MIL-SPEC GUNK DIELECTRIC GREASE & SILICONE LUBE $8 LOWES

Good call.

 

[Smaug]

For Black-Friday-Order-Now for $36 this is the BEST and BRIGHTEST LED headlight/lightbar I have used - I will attached jpg of my non-professional "real" shots. This Best Version has 2 handlebar clamps - there is a similar model with ONLY 1 handlebar clamp which is not as bright.

CLICK HERE $36 BRIGHTEST AND BEST HEADLIGHT

I'm going to write to Juiced about it first; give them a chance to help me fix it. THEY should deal with it, as it was THEIR faulty execution and I want them to know about it. I'm hoping maybe they have a little adjustment bracket they can ship me. If not, I'll take another look and see if there's room to loosen some bolts and tweak it over to the left. It only needs to come over a tiny bit. If not, then I am saving that light in my Wish List for possible later use.

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I wonder if Juiced will fix all these little things in their next iteration?

 

[Smaug]

For Black-Friday-Order-Now for $36 this is the BEST and BRIGHTEST LED headlight/lightbar I have used - I will attached jpg of my non-professional "real" shots. This Best Version has 2 handlebar clamps - there is a similar model with ONLY 1 handlebar clamp which is not as bright.

CLICK HERE $36 BRIGHTEST AND BEST HEADLIGHT

On second thought, that is pretty big. I don't really need a huge flood light, as the stock light is fine for that. I need a spot beam that can be aimed correctly. Something a lot smaller will do the job, I think.

 

[Smaug]

Last night, I went out and bought a basket for the bike, having mounted the rack the night before. I found one at Lowe's for $12 that is just about perfect.

It is just a bit wider than the rack itself, and when I mount it far enough back to allow finger clearance on the rear grab handle of the bike, it's flush with the rear of the rack.

It has a little cutout so that one edge is lower than the others; I'm not crazy about this, but I figure when I carry a passenger, that'll be more room for her back to not hit the basket.

The lighting was pretty bad in the garage for pictures, so I also made a quick walk-around video of it:

A couple pix, too:

Descriptive tag of the basket.

Mounted with zip ties. I ran out of black ones and had to switch to natural color...

 

[Smaug]

This thread is about programming options for this bike.

From the factory:

• ECO, 1, 2, 3 and SPORT are all capped at 20 mph assistance or throttle. The only difference is the throttle curves. SPORT accelerates the hardest, ECO the gentlest and so forth.

After unlocking:

• RACE mode appears, which is uncapped for throttle and assistance. I've seen 32 mph indicated; haven't measured with GPS to confirm actual speed.
• ECO, 1, 2, 3 and SPORT are still the same
• Cruise control doesn't work in RACE mode, so it's useless unless I want to cruise at 20 mph. I generally don't want to. I want to cruise at 25 (many states' moped speed limit), 28 (USA Class 3 limit) or max. (to keep up with automotive traffic)
• There is a SPEED setting in the menu that can be changed, but it is only pedal assist speed, not throttle speed. That stinks.

The manual says that ECO mode was intended to make the heavier eBike feel like a regular bike; to "take the extra weight away". If so, they failed, as it is still quite heavy to start off.

All this considered, I rate the control a 6/10.

I rate the display a 7/10. It has a lot of flexibility as to what it can display, but it's quite small; hard to read at speed. In the normal display mode, the speed and battery gauge are legible, so that's good, as they're the most important two things to see. In Advanced mode, everything is small enough that I need to squint and look for a couple seconds to see them. Not very safe at speed.

 

[Smaug]

Well, it’s above freezing today, so I road downtown for a ride. Posed in front of a trendy shop.

Have the helmet strapped through the basket it’s not as precarious as it looks

 

[Papa K]

Looks like you are getting it dialed in. Cold here but got a ride in on the RipRacer, found lowering the tire pressure to be a big help in grip and a little added cushion as it has no suspension. Liking it a bunch though, been using it in the rough around the property, good times.

 

[Smaug]

@fabbrisd: I stopped by the auto parts store today and got a little $2 envelope of dielectric grease and put that in the charger and discharge terminals of each battery pack.

I also thought more about your suggestion for the Cramp Buster and decided to buy one to make the speed easier to regulate in RACE mode. (where the throttle response is too touchy)

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The attached pic shows that, if I’m careful, I can lock the helmet with my large OnGuard U-lock through the D-ring while also locking the bike frame to a bike rack.

 

[fabbrisd]

You will love the Cramp Buster - clips over the throttle - I use the rubber piece it comes with - and you adjust the amngle of the CB so you can use the lower edge of the palm - under the thumb to control the throttle

 

[Smaug]

I ordered a pair of helmet locks from Amazon. They seem to be cheaper by the pair. I'll have a spare if someone wants the other I'll send it to them (CONUS only) for just the cost of shipping:

 

[addertooth]

I like the idea of a helmet lock, but I am suffering from a bit of "key overload" at this point. Perhaps I need to make a cycling-only keychain.
For now, I just put the helmet in the saddlebags (out of sight, out of mind), and set the motion sensing alarm on the bike.

 

[fabbrisd]

1. I use a Lanyard: CLICK HERE PARACORD NECK LANYARDS

2. I also have this - compartment is slick but does not lock: CLICK HERE WIDE SEAT W/STORAGE COMPARTMENT

 

[Smaug]

I like the idea of a helmet lock, but I am suffering from a bit of "key overload" at this point. Perhaps I need to make a cycling-only keychain.
For now, I just put the helmet in the saddlebags (out of sight, out of mind), and set the motion sensing alarm on the bike.

I have a bike-only keychain for every eBike. This one especially is going to need it, to carry:

• Ignition/battery release key
• U-lock key
• Alarm fob (haven't installed the alarm yet)
• and now, helmet lock key

1. I use a Lanyard: CLICK HERE PARACORD NECK LANYARDS

That's no good if one lives in a city with any crime, because it doesn't actually lock

2. I also have this - compartment is slick but does not lock: CLICK HERE WIDE SEAT W/STORAGE COMPARTMENT

Well, the seat is not height-adjustable on this bike, so I can't have that seat. However, I did just receive THIS ONE yesterday; have yet to install it.

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I am now eyeing the area under the seat and between the number plates. Seems like a nice hidden storage compartment might be built there:

I think I will also remove the license plate bracket, so as not to invite any questions by police about whether it should be registered as a moped.

Last thing: they've lowered the price again! I just paid $2500 a few weeks ago; now it is $2300. However, they have disabled discount codes. This is STILL a lower price. Reviews on the bike mention the dual battery version costing $3500; I wouldn't have paid that, but $2500 I could justify and $2300 really seems like a good deal on this eMoped. (even without rack & fenders aren't included...)

 

[Smaug]

Looks like they are REALLY discontinuing the HS2, as the foot pegs are now marked as "SOLD OUT" instead of backordered. Looks like I'll have to fabricate something of my own if I want to carry a passenger.

Can't wait to see the HyperScrambler 3.

 

[Smaug]

I emailed Juiced this morning and heard back this afternoon. The horn seems to have stopped working and I asked about how to fix the headlight aim.

He gave this seemingly useful video link on how to fix the headlight aim:

Scorpion Headlight.mp4

drive.google.com

...and suggested the batteries for the horn might be dead. That didn't make much sense to me, as I'm sure it gets current from the controller. I suggested that and said that perhaps the switch couldn't handle the big current from the loud horn? (it feels like a cheap switch; very spongy action)

 

[Smaug]

I put the new seat on just now. Some miscellaneous notes:

• The OEM seat tapers as it rises in height, which lead to all my weight being concentrated on a narrower area = uncomfortable
• The OEM seat was attached with six studs, washers and 10 mm locknuts
• The replacement seat (link in Post #54 above) is only attached with four studs, washers and 12 mm locknuts. That's adequate
• The replacement seat remains full width throughout its height and is much more supportive; it spreads the load out across one's butt.
• The foam of the replacement seat is a bit softer. I could go for it being softer yet, but then it would squish down under the weight of really heavy guys.
• I got a look at the controller
• Anyone know what the hell the little board is that's plugged in into the connector?

Controller. I may look into upgrading it to something that will handle a bit more power, as the bike is frequently drawing 1800 W at full throttle. It might burn out when outside temperatures get hot again. It might be interesting to put a thermocouple on the case and measure it after an extended full throttle run.

The new seat, in all its glory. The rear two nuts were kind of a pain to get to. You'll need either a long 1/4" extension or a spinner handle. You'll need a 10 mm deep socket.

Just what in the hell is this little board plugged into this socket? If I pop it out, do an get more functionality? Hmmm.

 

[Smaug]

The horn on my HyperScrambler 2 suddenly stopped working after one ride on a wet road before I installed the fenders. The headlight aim is off a few degrees to the right. I emailed Juiced support about those issues and Greg got back to me the same day. He suggested maybe the horn battery was bad. I said the horn doesn't have its own battery; it uses the traction batteries. He said: Oh yeah, thanks. Please check the connections and send pix. I checked them, they were fine. I bent the terminals straight, applied some dielectric grease and reconnected it.

I followed Juiced's video on how to re-apply the clips that were holding the headlight internals in place, but the clips were fine. It's just bad calibration and no provision for aiming them. I asked if they would send me a separately-mounted battery headlight. We'll see what they say but I think they will say that "that is not our policy" and I will have to buy a headlight with decent throw to ride safely at night.

The reviewers on this bike all say the headlight is great, but I don't feel like they've ridden at night with it and made an honest assessment.

Anyway I put it back together, the horn miraculously started working again; intermittent fault, apparently, which means it's going to crap out again when I least expect it. At least I have the horn back. I just need to buy another quality battery-powered headlight.

I need to figure out where I'm going to mount the helmet lock now.

 

[DieselTech]

I put the new seat on just now. Some miscellaneous notes:

• The OEM seat tapers as it rises in height, which lead to all my weight being concentrated on a narrower area = uncomfortable
• The OEM seat was attached with six studs, washers and 10 mm locknuts
• The replacement seat (link in Post #54 above) is only attached with four studs, washers and 12 mm locknuts. That's adequate
• The replacement seat remains full width throughout its height and is much more supportive; it spreads the load out across one's butt.
• The foam of the replacement seat is a bit softer. I could go for it being softer yet, but then it would squish down under the weight of really heavy guys.
• I got a look at the controller
• Anyone know what the hell the little board is that's plugged in into the connector?

Controller. I may look into upgrading it to something that will handle a bit more power, as the bike is frequently drawing 1800 W at full throttle. It might burn out when outside temperatures get hot again. It might be interesting to put a thermocouple on the case and measure it after an extended full throttle run.
View attachment 12364


The new seat, in all its glory. The rear two nuts were kind of a pain to get to. You'll need either a long 1/4" extension or a spinner handle. You'll need a 10 mm deep socket.
View attachment 12365


Just what in the hell is this little board plugged into this socket? If I pop it out, do an get more functionality? Hmmm.
View attachment 12366

Soo WTH is that computer chip? Thingy you found? Speed restriction chip? Tattle tale chip?

Did you by chance find out? Thanks.

 

[DieselTech]

Its gotta be a Flux Capacitor!!! 88mph & gone.