Juiced HyperScrambler 2 thread

I understand your "Urge" to continue research before your HyScorp arrives - to be helpful the Cluth/Gear Assembly is your new Juiced is the "upgraded" Bafang clutch/gear set for Bafancg G060/ G062 750+ watt hub motors. Note the design of the gears and the markings on the back of the clutch plate.

I have no affiliation with this Euro Seller - the Link is for Informational Comparision only.

CLICK HERE COMPARISION BAFANG "UPGRADED GEARS/CLUTCH
 
I understand your "Urge" to continue research before your HyScorp arrives - to be helpful the Cluth/Gear Assembly is your new Juiced is the "upgraded" Bafang clutch/gear set for Bafancg G060/ G062 750+ watt hub motors. Note the design of the gears and the markings on the back of the clutch plate.

I have no affiliation with this Euro Seller - the Link is for Informational Comparision only.

CLICK HERE COMPARISION BAFANG "UPGRADED GEARS/CLUTCH
Thanks a ton!
 
"Actually" if you want to "Dive Deep" - there also is the option to replace Nylon Gears with "Sandwich" type that combines either Brass or Steel gear plate bonded to a nylon gear base - or all Brass Gears - and all Steel Gears.

US eBike brands can't offer "sandwich" gears as there is a China motor manufacturer that has a strong China patent on "eBike sandwich gears" - and frankly Brass and Steel Gears (where this whole eBike thing started) are "dang noisey" which is the reason Durable Nylon Gears came about to be developed and ultimately becomr eBike standard.

Do a Deep Dive on Aliexpress ... you can always swap out all 3 nylon Bafang fatbike gears on the plate for different gears as long as all 3 are the same type gear.
 
"Actually" if you want to "Dive Deep" - there also is the option to replace Nylon Gears with "Sandwich" type that combines either Brass or Steel gear plate bonded to a nylon gear base - or all Brass Gears - and all Steel Gears.

US eBike brands can't offer "sandwich" gears as there is a China motor manufacturer that has a strong China patent on "eBike sandwich gears" - and frankly Brass and Steel Gears (where this whole eBike thing started) are "dang noisey" which is the reason Durable Nylon Gears came about to be developed and ultimately becomr eBike standard.

Do a Deep Dive on Aliexpress ... you can always swap out all 3 nylon Bafang fatbike gears on the plate for different gears as long as all 3 are the same type gear.
What’s the point of sandwiching gear materials? Why not just solid steel or brass, so the teeth don’t break off like our man’s up there?

I feel like the time is right for full wheel diameter brushless direct drive motors. They have to figure out how to lighten it up, or maybe 2WD, so it’s balanced.
 
Yeah walmart offers a steel replacement or just brass planetary gears if you need them. Guy would need to verify you got a 36 tooth planetary.
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When hub motor eBikes started attracting customer's - at that time hub motor gears were either Brass (Brass alloy) or Steel (Steel alloy).

"Motor Noise" was the MAJOR complaint of the 1st Hub Motor eBike Adopters .

The China guys moved forward to Nylon Gears to reduce Motor Noise" - and the early Nylon Gears were subject to widespread teeth breakage - temperature made the gears yellow/brittle - and a WIDE variance in quality.

The China Nylon Gears improved in consistency and manufacturer to become "good" for 250-500 watt hub motors.

A smart hub motor guy developed the "best" gear - the Sandwich - which has a brass (or steel) top plate - nylon center plate - and brass (or steel) bottom plate - GREAT power handling and Lower/Acceptable Motor Noise. He patented that in China - and once the patent was approved - nobody else in China could manufactore 2-plates/Center-Nylon sandwich gear.

All metal gears are TOO NOISY - you are welcome to buy/try see what you think - and single-plate/bottom-nylon "kindof sandwich" gears are available from China but I have not had gear failures in my rigs for over 3yrs and havent had replace any gears.

"Teeth Failure" nowadays on a Bafang Fat Tire Gear Plate are kindof rare - and in my mind can only come from ("Poor Factory Lube" + "Slamming-The-Throttle")
 
When hub motor eBikes started attracting customer's - at that time hub motor gears were either Brass (Brass alloy) or Steel (Steel alloy).

"Motor Noise" was the MAJOR complaint of the 1st Hub Motor eBike Adopters .

The China guys moved forward to Nylon Gears to reduce Motor Noise" - and the early Nylon Gears were subject to widespread teeth breakage - temperature made the gears yellow/brittle - and a WIDE variance in quality.

The China Nylon Gears improved in consistency and manufacturer to become "good" for 250-500 watt hub motors.

A smart hub motor guy developed the "best" gear - the Sandwich - which has a brass (or steel) top plate - nylon center plate - and brass (or steel) bottom plate - GREAT power handling and Lower/Acceptable Motor Noise. He patented that in China - and once the patent was approved - nobody else in China could manufactore 2-plates/Center-Nylon sandwich gear.

All metal gears are TOO NOISY - you are welcome to buy/try see what you think - and single-plate/bottom-nylon "kindof sandwich" gears are available from China but I have not had gear failures in my rigs for over 3yrs and havent had replace any gears.

"Teeth Failure" nowadays on a Bafang Fat Tire Gear Plate are kindof rare - and in my mind can only come from ("Poor Factory Lube" + "Slamming-The-Throttle")
The Chinese have this tendency to do whatever is necessary to solve a problem in the short term, not caring about long term repercussions. So they solved the motor noise issue but created a motor fragility issue. Why not educate the consumers a bit instead? Post in a couple of fora, respond to YouTube videos. Maybe offer an option at checkout? (plastic gears: quieter or metal gears: louder-but-stronger) I bet 95% of the time, customers would have chosen the metal gears.
 
Bafang did a very/very good job with Hub Motor Gears to improve the design and manufacuring requirements - AND improving Gear Spec for higher output motos. a 1500 watt hub motor is 6 times the Torque of a 250w hub motor that was the eBike "Powerhouse" just 4yrs ago. Gear failures are rare now - the ones I have seen are due to Rider-Throttle-Slamming/Handling-eBike-as-a-motocross 2-stroke. NO eBike Owner I know will tolerate the Motor Noise from metal gears - moving the contructrion of Hub Gears eBike hub motors are not the ONLY type of Performance eMotors - sh**t Nylon Gear electric drivetrains are comon in the e-Space
 
Bafang did a very/very good job with Hub Motor Gears to improve the design and manufacuring requirements - AND improving Gear Spec for higher output motos. a 1500 watt hub motor is 6 times the Torque of a 250w hub motor that was the eBike "Powerhouse" just 4yrs ago. Gear failures are rare now - the ones I have seen are due to Rider-Throttle-Slamming/Handling-eBike-as-a-motocross 2-stroke. NO eBike Owner I know will tolerate the Motor Noise from metal gears - moving the contructrion of Hub Gears eBike hub motors are not the ONLY type of Performance eMotors - sh**t Nylon Gear electric drivetrains are comon in the e-Space
We will see!

I won't slam mine around or jump it, but I will likely ride it across a grass field here and there and gravel trails. Sooner than that, I will ride it in extremely cold conditions, which nylon sometimes doesn't like, and which they would have a hard time testing in southern China. (which is almost tropical in climate) I wonder if it will freeze and lock up the whole hub when it gets below freezing?
 
We will see!

I won't slam mine around or jump it, but I will likely ride it across a grass field here and there and gravel trails. Sooner than that, I will ride it in extremely cold conditions, which nylon sometimes doesn't like, and which they would have a hard time testing in southern China. (which is almost tropical in climate) I wonder if it will freeze and lock up the whole hub when it gets below freezing?
Sometimes like today, i like to set the speed to 70mph then give'r wide open throttle to get up to 45mph real quick then just slowly ride it down to 20mph lol

The gas bike guys will know wut i mean ;)
 
Man - #1 the major hub motor manufacturers were the major driving force to push the quality "UP" on nylon gears..... and frankly the "Nylon" material that they require and the and the molding process required - Hub-Motor- Spec-Nylon-Gears are not "cheaper" than "brass" (brass is cheapest). #1 lower noise #2 less heat generated #3 longer sealed gear lube life etc, etc...
If you want to have at it - they sure order in "Brass" (which is brass "looking" allow), "Steel" (which is "alloy steel" not tool steel) or "sandwich" - slpa them in and frankly you WON"T LIKE IT TOO DAMN DRONING..
 
It just landed today, two days early. I got 'er put together and had a test ride, so here are my initial thoughts:

  • Packaging: 10/10. The bike came in a custom-fitted clamshell of closed cell foam. Note that the zip ties holding the battery packs in place are covered with rubber-impregnated sleeves to keep from scratching the battery packs. There were foam and lens covers where needed. The box took a bit of a ding at some point, but no damage made its way to the bike. Note the plastic handles inserted into the box.
  • Tools: 9/10. The included tools are good quality, but they didn't include a 16 mm wrench that was needed for the nuts that hold the turn signals in place. There are a bunch of sizes that weren't used for assembly. I really like the triple-wrenches. (I'll add a pic later of the included tools)
Here is what it looked like when I removed one side of the clamshell with the front wheel:
CrackedOpen.JPG



A good, sturdy double-wall box with many plastic handles built-in. Nice. Better have a dolly, even with two guys, dragging this up the driveway would be tough. My FedEx driver had a dolly.
InBox.JPG



I got it stood up temporarily, while I fetched a celebratory beer. Leffe Blond was my favorite beer from my trip to Belgium. It's a spiced abbey ale.
StandingUpUnassembled.JPG



Here's a way I devised to stand it up, thinking I'd the front wheel on it like this. It is all but impossible to mount the front wheel with one person with the bike upright; there's just too much to keep aligned. It would even be difficult with four hands.
RightSideUpJacking1.JPG



I have rubber bumpers to fit my jackstands to protect the pinch welds on my cars when I jack them up. They came in handy here to straddle wiring and not put too much weight on them. A couple of 2x4 blocks under the kickstand formed the third leg of the "tripod". I was not rock stable, but not wobbly either.
RightSideUpJacking2.JPG


More in the next post.
 
I started to try to assemble the wheel onto it with it sitting on its side, but realized that is putting quite a bit of weight on the rear turn signals.

I decided to deviate a bit from the instructions and mount the handlebar first, then it would stand up in a stable fashion upside down. Then, to protect the display mounted to the top of the handlebar, I put the rubber jackstand covers to straddle the grips. If you don't have those, 2x4 blocks will also work.

I carefully wheelied it up and rotated it back, being careful not to put the full weight of the bike on the tail light.

This is DEFINITELY the preferred way to put this together. I ran into the same thing with my heybike Ranger.
Flip-over jacking1.JPG


Here are the jack stand covers on Amazon:
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A few more details with commentary:


The chainring is ENORMOUS. Pedaling uphill in the lowest gear will not be doable. I were designing this bike, I would forgo the multiple speeds and just give it a single gear ratio, geared for maybe 4 mph or so. As it stands, the lowest gear is for maybe 9 mph, which is not low enough to get this 120 beast (plus my 182 lbs) up a hill in case I run the batteries down.
EnormousChainring.JPG



Detail of the left hand grip and switchgear. The switchgear should be closest to the grip, not furthest. Otherwise, it's not an easy reach nor intuitive to use the turn signal or horn. They had only to copy any Japanese motorcycle's left grip from the last 40 years or so... The shifter let me shift the chain right in between the largest rear sprocket and the wheel itself. It would have been nice to have a stop set up there...
LeftGrip.JPG



Right-hand grip and display/controls. I don't mind a simple one-color display, as long as it's legible like this one is. From the box, it has four modes: ECO, 1, 2, 3 and SPORT. Believe it or not, they all seem to be programmed the same: to stop at 20 mph. That's dumb. I'm going to dig in and see if I can re-program them to something sensible. When we unlock it, we get a RACE mode that lets it throttle and assist up to top speed. If I were in charge of programming, this is how I'd set it up:

ECO - Assists only up to 10 mph; this is the "crowded bike path mode".
ECO2 - Assists up to 15.5 mph, throttle disabled. This is for UK/Euro compliance or less crowded bike paths.

1 - Class 1 mode, asissts up to 20 mph, throttle disabled
2 - Class 2 mode, assists to 20 mph, throttle enabled.
3 - Class 3 mode, assist to 28 mph, throttle to 20 mph.
SPORT - Throttle or assist to 28 mph. Good speed but probably a lot more range than RACE mode
UNLIMITED - Throttle or assist to top speed. Top speed is above 28 mph only if you have a lot of room. It's like getting an economy car over 85 mph.

RightGrip.JPG

↑ Note the 1 A USB socket with rain cover. That will come in handy, I think.

More build notes:
  • The pinch bolts on the steering stem were tightened with the stem off-center; at least they were tight though
  • I used Vibra-Tite on the pedals, handle bar clamp bolts, mirror (I only mounted the left side one; got to stay aero!) and front axle nuts. I may remove some other fasteners soon and vibra-tite them.
  • The manual and tire itself say to inflate to 35 psi. That is WAY too high, even if the tires can take it. NO WONDER people are crashing and saying the tires are junk! 20 psi even feels a little high to me. I think I'm going to air down to 15 psi soon, so the tires can squish down to get a decent size contact patch.
 
1. Your HyperScorpion has true USB Power Port - unlike "most ebikes" that have a USB data port (which is worthless. On your Hyper that "little box" behind the Port is the 48V-to-5V "buck mini-converter" 1.5amp-2.0amp

2. ADD $12 Crampbuster CB-4 snap over Right Hand 1/2 Throttle This "clips over" that 1/2 throttle - and allows you to use your lower left of your palm/lower thumb bone edge tolever/control the throttle. The "use description" sounds cloudy = but once you get it and install you will understand and LOVE CRAMPBUSTER

3. Vibra-Tite is a admirable and top choice - however pedal-to-crank is not normally a thread-locker - normally moisture can creep into the threads from outer pedal stud side or from the inner open crank side - recommended light coat dielectric-grease or silicone-lube on the pedal stud threads to prevent electrolysis/corrosion between those male and the female-crank-threads.
Pedals DON'T loosen by riding - that's the the reason for clock-wise threads on the rider/right side and for the counter-clockwise threads on the rider/left side. However peda lstuds do GET STUCK IN THE CRANK with moisture and dielectric corrosion

4. Light dab of dielectric grease on throttle and display connections.

CLICK HERE MIL-SPEC GUNK DIELECTRIC GREASE & SILICONE LUBE $8 LOWES
 
For Black-Friday-Order-Now for $36 this is the BEST and BRIGHTEST LED headlight/lightbar I have used - I will attached jpg of my non-professional "real" shots. This Best Version has 2 handlebar clamps - there is a similar model with ONLY 1 handlebar clamp which is not as bright.

CLICK HERE $36 BRIGHTEST AND BEST HEADLIGHT
 

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Looks like a lot fun, really nice! I'm surprised it has that tall of a stand over height though it doesn't look that tall. It reminds me of my old Brigs and Stratton powered minibike I had when I was a kid.:D
 
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