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1,800W & 3,000W brushless motors with 20S to 24S - 18 ah LTOs and brush chain drives.
- Thread starter curtis
- Start date
You too.
Yea.
Houston had issues yesterday. On the way back from Wallmart. 3 mile round trip the front Bafang motor cut out. I thought at first LVC with those Headace batteries. Used Headway crap. It was not the issue. After taking apart the controller looking for loose wire I untangled the cable from around the front basket and found damage from scraping against the tire.
I repaired the wires twice and tossed the controller and wiring harness in the trash. After going to storage with the LTOS I put a brand new spare identical controller on it. Still no power.
I then took the front Bafang off the 27.5" dual suspension with 26" hub motors. The direct drive 48V 1,000W motor in the rear. Instant power. I burned out the motor. Took the other controller out of the trash. Throwing it back in.
Two Bafangs need repair. One with the pretzel shaped rim I hit the curb with and the other I just burnt out. I need to get it apart and see what I can learn. I fixed direct drive hub and brush chain.
Nice thing about this build current is the single throttle. Rear engages first. Back tire spins a little faster. However when the Bafang reaches maximum efficiency you can hear the difference as the rear chain is kind of loud with gear reduction. When it is not that loud the front is helping a lot. I like the way they share the load but the rear spins first. I wont need to use torque arms. I need not be bothered.
I don't recommend anyone else to do it though, I got the hang of it when riding the Diamondback outlook with the dual Bafangs. I am good for starting off slow. The feather touch. lol. I would like a 48V - 1,000W brush motor up front on the dual suspension I took the Bafang off of today. The direct drive hub in the back has a sensor less controller. Worked fine with two throttles. Had to pedal or give it a push forwards to kick in the 1,000W rear hub.
If the brush controller spins first like my current build it would be perfect for the sensor less controller on the Dual suspension. Who would think a 750W gear chain would work perfect with a 350W geared Bafang hub motor ?
It was still daylight on the way there but really foggy. 3.5 miles to storage but the 1/2 or 3/4 mile main highway. No sidewalk. No lights !!! YIKES !
Grass gets cut though. Even a small field. I never had to get close to the road. Then sidewalks all the way.
All wheel drive is highly recommended. Front tire was a cruizer tire no good tread. They came with the Bafangs when I got them used from Battery Clearinghouse. It had NO prob - lemo on the wet grass and some mud. I just put a better tire closer to dirt / off road. Not really knobby but decent on the Bafang up front. Tire on the rear is a little wider. It rides great. Should not be too shabby up hills either.
Speaking of Battery Clearinghouse yesterday I ordered 168 of the used A123 cells. Supposed to be 80% capacity. We shall see. Since the HEADACHE batteries kind of suck , I need to parallel it up to a 12S - 4P pack. 2.3 Ah each so 9.2. - 30%. = 6.44 Ah They say 80% capacity but I am calculating 70% which is being very optimistic. In parallel I can hope for 10 Ah.
168 - 48 = 120. 120 / 15 = 8. 15S to me is kind of special as I paid around $130 for my dedicated 56.8V LIFEPO4 charger. 900W - 15 amps.
2.3 * 8 = 18.4 = 12.8 Ah. That is if 70% capacity. I can live with those numbers. I can charge fast. That's why I am not interested in 60V. I have 24 LTOs
24 * 2.5V = 60V. = or > 50 pounds though.
Why a 15S - 8P and 12S - 4P pack are exactly what I need. I will get a second 12S active balancer, hopefully same model. I got about 4 amp hours from the headache batteries so in parallel should at least get close to 10 Ah. Around 12 + from the 15S - 8P pack.
I decided to use 3/4 plywood for top motor mount. Brace under it 1.5" by 1.5" PT. I could double up on top and brace under for the 3,000 watt brushless motor on the Currie. I want to sand down and paint the Currie though. It is my first e bike and been thru the mill.
I also only used two carriage bolts for the brace instead of 3. that one in the middle is problematic. Not lot of space in that center. Too many times all pissed off pounding on the wood bracket with a hammer to try ang get 1/8" or so to get the chain to line up. And it don't. work as bolt is against the frame. I finally realized what an idiot I was to put in that center bolt.
For the 3,000W motor I am thinking larger bolts. Highest grade. Extra large washers Thinking double 3/4 plywood top and PT 2 by 4 bottom brace. 1/2" bolts. My first welding job could be welding a steel horizontal cross brace to the seat post for the steel hose clamps like I use.
Thanks. Curtis out.
.
Yea.
Houston had issues yesterday. On the way back from Wallmart. 3 mile round trip the front Bafang motor cut out. I thought at first LVC with those Headace batteries. Used Headway crap. It was not the issue. After taking apart the controller looking for loose wire I untangled the cable from around the front basket and found damage from scraping against the tire.
I repaired the wires twice and tossed the controller and wiring harness in the trash. After going to storage with the LTOS I put a brand new spare identical controller on it. Still no power.
I then took the front Bafang off the 27.5" dual suspension with 26" hub motors. The direct drive 48V 1,000W motor in the rear. Instant power. I burned out the motor. Took the other controller out of the trash. Throwing it back in.
Two Bafangs need repair. One with the pretzel shaped rim I hit the curb with and the other I just burnt out. I need to get it apart and see what I can learn. I fixed direct drive hub and brush chain.
Nice thing about this build current is the single throttle. Rear engages first. Back tire spins a little faster. However when the Bafang reaches maximum efficiency you can hear the difference as the rear chain is kind of loud with gear reduction. When it is not that loud the front is helping a lot. I like the way they share the load but the rear spins first. I wont need to use torque arms. I need not be bothered.
I don't recommend anyone else to do it though, I got the hang of it when riding the Diamondback outlook with the dual Bafangs. I am good for starting off slow. The feather touch. lol. I would like a 48V - 1,000W brush motor up front on the dual suspension I took the Bafang off of today. The direct drive hub in the back has a sensor less controller. Worked fine with two throttles. Had to pedal or give it a push forwards to kick in the 1,000W rear hub.
If the brush controller spins first like my current build it would be perfect for the sensor less controller on the Dual suspension. Who would think a 750W gear chain would work perfect with a 350W geared Bafang hub motor ?
It was still daylight on the way there but really foggy. 3.5 miles to storage but the 1/2 or 3/4 mile main highway. No sidewalk. No lights !!! YIKES !
Grass gets cut though. Even a small field. I never had to get close to the road. Then sidewalks all the way.
All wheel drive is highly recommended. Front tire was a cruizer tire no good tread. They came with the Bafangs when I got them used from Battery Clearinghouse. It had NO prob - lemo on the wet grass and some mud. I just put a better tire closer to dirt / off road. Not really knobby but decent on the Bafang up front. Tire on the rear is a little wider. It rides great. Should not be too shabby up hills either.
Speaking of Battery Clearinghouse yesterday I ordered 168 of the used A123 cells. Supposed to be 80% capacity. We shall see. Since the HEADACHE batteries kind of suck , I need to parallel it up to a 12S - 4P pack. 2.3 Ah each so 9.2. - 30%. = 6.44 Ah They say 80% capacity but I am calculating 70% which is being very optimistic. In parallel I can hope for 10 Ah.
168 - 48 = 120. 120 / 15 = 8. 15S to me is kind of special as I paid around $130 for my dedicated 56.8V LIFEPO4 charger. 900W - 15 amps.
2.3 * 8 = 18.4 = 12.8 Ah. That is if 70% capacity. I can live with those numbers. I can charge fast. That's why I am not interested in 60V. I have 24 LTOs
24 * 2.5V = 60V. = or > 50 pounds though.
Why a 15S - 8P and 12S - 4P pack are exactly what I need. I will get a second 12S active balancer, hopefully same model. I got about 4 amp hours from the headache batteries so in parallel should at least get close to 10 Ah. Around 12 + from the 15S - 8P pack.
I decided to use 3/4 plywood for top motor mount. Brace under it 1.5" by 1.5" PT. I could double up on top and brace under for the 3,000 watt brushless motor on the Currie. I want to sand down and paint the Currie though. It is my first e bike and been thru the mill.
I also only used two carriage bolts for the brace instead of 3. that one in the middle is problematic. Not lot of space in that center. Too many times all pissed off pounding on the wood bracket with a hammer to try ang get 1/8" or so to get the chain to line up. And it don't. work as bolt is against the frame. I finally realized what an idiot I was to put in that center bolt.
For the 3,000W motor I am thinking larger bolts. Highest grade. Extra large washers Thinking double 3/4 plywood top and PT 2 by 4 bottom brace. 1/2" bolts. My first welding job could be welding a steel horizontal cross brace to the seat post for the steel hose clamps like I use.
Thanks. Curtis out.
.
Maybe with a full helmet and crash suite.
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.
My next two builds will be hairy rides.
Looking at 56V of LFP batteries. A 20" Diamondback outlook a 3 kilowatt brushless motor. It will pull 2,800W with >43 mph gearing.
The Currie ezip Trailz will pull > 4,600W via three 36+ amp 1,000W 36V brush motors. Two on the back with a #35 chain , 60T wheel and two 10T motor sprockets. The front will sport #420 chail with a 60T spoke sprocket and 10T motor sprocket. Gearing will be > 53 mph.
They should both be finished by the end of spring this year.
I shall keep you posted right here on
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.
Thanks.
LC. out.
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.
My next two builds will be hairy rides.
Looking at 56V of LFP batteries. A 20" Diamondback outlook a 3 kilowatt brushless motor. It will pull 2,800W with >43 mph gearing.
The Currie ezip Trailz will pull > 4,600W via three 36+ amp 1,000W 36V brush motors. Two on the back with a #35 chain , 60T wheel and two 10T motor sprockets. The front will sport #420 chail with a 60T spoke sprocket and 10T motor sprocket. Gearing will be > 53 mph.
They should both be finished by the end of spring this year.
I shall keep you posted right here on
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.
Thanks.
LC. out.
- Local time
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- Joined
- Jan 21, 2021
- Messages
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- Points
- 113
We'll stay tuned for the next episode
Be careful curtis! (I had to say it, you knew I would anyway lol)
Stay Safe Friend!!
HP
Be careful curtis! (I had to say it, you knew I would anyway lol)
Stay Safe Friend!!
HP
Thanks.
I am debating on the 36V - 1,000W - brush Unite motors for the Currie. The 12S Headway in series with a 5S - 8P - A123 - 26650 pack. > 4,500W may not be a good idea for old tired LFP. Also too many amps for the wiring.
4,600W / 56V = 82.14 amps. That is about twice what my LFP packs are wired for not to mention the voltage drop under a load like that.
My LTOs are good for about 5 or 6 times that though but not with the 12 gauge ring connecters I used. They would melt with 80 amps continuous.
I will need to upgrade to universal bus bars and if they are cheap I might need to double or triple up.
Also I really don't want to mount 40 to 50 pounds of LTOs to any bike frame. 40V is < 35 pounds and am comfortable to run that. The 36V motors will only give me a little more than 3,000W at 40V - LTO. Not even close to 50 mph gearing.
The alternative would be the 3 of the 900W - 24V motors which are also brush but about double the price of the Unite 36V motors.
900 / 24 = 37.5 * 40 = 1,500W. Two on the back and one on the front gives me 4,500W with three 36V - 40 amp controllers. 40V * 40 amps = 1,600W.
A single thumb throttle for three identical brush controllers.
It is a big pipe dream at this point. The only way to finance such a project is to make $$$$$ somehow and I think I may have found a way.
A lady at the dollar tree asked me about one of my ebikes she saw me ride there about a week ago. I do not want to sell any and she already has a bike. I told her about a hub motor kit from Amazon or e bay.
I would never sell anyone an e bike that I built. The reason is my brake work is a little sketchy. It works for me as I know what I am dealing with. NOT something I would put on someone else.
I would buy a brand new bike at WallFart and install a front hub with the controller and battery pack installed in a factory front basket. Nice and neat. Nothing like most of my rides. I am working on improvements however.
I was thinking if I can build decent looking LFP battery packs I could sell them for a modest profit. I can test them for capacity prior to building and wattage / maximum amps. Plexiglass on the top and stain the wood a nice dark brown or I can paint them black if the customer would like. If I hide the screw holes and use mostly wood glue and sand finish they should look great and thru word of mouth sell like hot cakes.
My next 5S - 8P pack will be wired better as I think I can strip the insulation long enough to do the series connection instead of the stiff bulky solder joints I did on the first pack. I will use a lighter to heat up the insulation and should come off much easier and not compromise the copper wire like before. I am going to use three strands of 16 gauge wire however.
Those light duty home extension cords have a 13 amp rating on the tag. 13 * 3 = 39 amps. 39 * 40 = 1,500W so will label the batteries for 1,500W and 39 amps. For 48V packs I can label 1,950W and 39 amps.
If I go 16S then 54V * 39A = 2,106. That would be ideal and should be able to make $100 profit on that. $50 to $75 on smaller 36V packs.
LFP packs like that would be great for short trips and charge quicker than Lion. Plus safer. I would need to have the proper connecters however as will not be cutting plugs off someone's hub motor kit and solder bullets to make it work. I will need a link to any or all possible connecters / adapters ect.
If you know of a good site please let me know.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
I am debating on the 36V - 1,000W - brush Unite motors for the Currie. The 12S Headway in series with a 5S - 8P - A123 - 26650 pack. > 4,500W may not be a good idea for old tired LFP. Also too many amps for the wiring.
4,600W / 56V = 82.14 amps. That is about twice what my LFP packs are wired for not to mention the voltage drop under a load like that.
My LTOs are good for about 5 or 6 times that though but not with the 12 gauge ring connecters I used. They would melt with 80 amps continuous.
I will need to upgrade to universal bus bars and if they are cheap I might need to double or triple up.
Also I really don't want to mount 40 to 50 pounds of LTOs to any bike frame. 40V is < 35 pounds and am comfortable to run that. The 36V motors will only give me a little more than 3,000W at 40V - LTO. Not even close to 50 mph gearing.
The alternative would be the 3 of the 900W - 24V motors which are also brush but about double the price of the Unite 36V motors.
900 / 24 = 37.5 * 40 = 1,500W. Two on the back and one on the front gives me 4,500W with three 36V - 40 amp controllers. 40V * 40 amps = 1,600W.
A single thumb throttle for three identical brush controllers.
It is a big pipe dream at this point. The only way to finance such a project is to make $$$$$ somehow and I think I may have found a way.
A lady at the dollar tree asked me about one of my ebikes she saw me ride there about a week ago. I do not want to sell any and she already has a bike. I told her about a hub motor kit from Amazon or e bay.
I would never sell anyone an e bike that I built. The reason is my brake work is a little sketchy. It works for me as I know what I am dealing with. NOT something I would put on someone else.
I would buy a brand new bike at WallFart and install a front hub with the controller and battery pack installed in a factory front basket. Nice and neat. Nothing like most of my rides. I am working on improvements however.
I was thinking if I can build decent looking LFP battery packs I could sell them for a modest profit. I can test them for capacity prior to building and wattage / maximum amps. Plexiglass on the top and stain the wood a nice dark brown or I can paint them black if the customer would like. If I hide the screw holes and use mostly wood glue and sand finish they should look great and thru word of mouth sell like hot cakes.
My next 5S - 8P pack will be wired better as I think I can strip the insulation long enough to do the series connection instead of the stiff bulky solder joints I did on the first pack. I will use a lighter to heat up the insulation and should come off much easier and not compromise the copper wire like before. I am going to use three strands of 16 gauge wire however.
Those light duty home extension cords have a 13 amp rating on the tag. 13 * 3 = 39 amps. 39 * 40 = 1,500W so will label the batteries for 1,500W and 39 amps. For 48V packs I can label 1,950W and 39 amps.
If I go 16S then 54V * 39A = 2,106. That would be ideal and should be able to make $100 profit on that. $50 to $75 on smaller 36V packs.
LFP packs like that would be great for short trips and charge quicker than Lion. Plus safer. I would need to have the proper connecters however as will not be cutting plugs off someone's hub motor kit and solder bullets to make it work. I will need a link to any or all possible connecters / adapters ect.
If you know of a good site please let me know.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
I have a total now of 22S LFP. 3.3V * 22 = 72.6 working volts.
A 12S - 2P - 8Ah Headway pack and two 5S - 8P - A123 - 26650 packs.
I already ran the 12S Headway in series with one 5S - 8P - A123 pack with my 1,800W brushless motor and 38 amp controller.
The packs have a limit of around 40 amps continuous , 50 amps for < 30 seconds.
Doing the math at 72.6V * 40 amps = 2, 904 watts. My 3,000W brushless motor is rated at 60V. The controller is 48 to 72V and rated for 70 amps.
Looking at 30 mph cruising and 40+ mph for < 30 seconds. I am not sure how to gear it though as there will be a considerable voltage drop under load. I would guess with old used LFP I will get around 60V under load so may as well gear it for about 46 mph @ 60V.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
A 12S - 2P - 8Ah Headway pack and two 5S - 8P - A123 - 26650 packs.
I already ran the 12S Headway in series with one 5S - 8P - A123 pack with my 1,800W brushless motor and 38 amp controller.
The packs have a limit of around 40 amps continuous , 50 amps for < 30 seconds.
Doing the math at 72.6V * 40 amps = 2, 904 watts. My 3,000W brushless motor is rated at 60V. The controller is 48 to 72V and rated for 70 amps.
Looking at 30 mph cruising and 40+ mph for < 30 seconds. I am not sure how to gear it though as there will be a considerable voltage drop under load. I would guess with old used LFP I will get around 60V under load so may as well gear it for about 46 mph @ 60V.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. another 20" build.
I had to overcome some obstacles on this build. The bike had my 20" 800W 48V hub motor on it about a year or so ago. I had to remove it as it had broken spokes. Five spokes were broken due to rust. The motor and controller is in storage waiting for me to get it to a bike shop. The problem is it might need all new spokes due to rust so I might need to get a truing stand and attempt to do it myself and save $100 in labor.
I decided to throw my 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm. motor on the back. It has an 8T motor and 60T wheel sprocket for a modest 23.8 mph gearing.
The rear wheel is not straight. Also the spoke sprocket is not perfect either. The obvious upgrade would be a 9T- 8mm motor and 62T freewheel sprocket on a perfectly straight rim.
The seat was mounted using old hardware and a different bolt. I needed to ad a brace to keep it from moving. Also two 2 by 2 pieces of pressure treated deck railing bolted to the forks on the bottom and steel pipe clamps on the handle bars. It not only keeps the handle bars from moving forwards or backwards but supports a milk crate via drywall screw on the bottom and tied by wire and zip ties on the top. I hauled a 12 pack of beer and groceries home from Walmart just a while ago.
For now though it is perfect for short trips to Walmart which is about 1.5 miles there and back. There are no hills. I do not have any brakes to install as need to go to a bike shop and spend about $25. Or better yet find a cheap 20" bike at a thrift store and take the front brake off it. I might get lucky and find a straight rear rim with a 16T freewheel as well. I already have the 62T - 8mm sprocket and a 9T motor sprocket somewhere.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
somewhere.
I had to overcome some obstacles on this build. The bike had my 20" 800W 48V hub motor on it about a year or so ago. I had to remove it as it had broken spokes. Five spokes were broken due to rust. The motor and controller is in storage waiting for me to get it to a bike shop. The problem is it might need all new spokes due to rust so I might need to get a truing stand and attempt to do it myself and save $100 in labor.
I decided to throw my 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm. motor on the back. It has an 8T motor and 60T wheel sprocket for a modest 23.8 mph gearing.
The rear wheel is not straight. Also the spoke sprocket is not perfect either. The obvious upgrade would be a 9T- 8mm motor and 62T freewheel sprocket on a perfectly straight rim.
The seat was mounted using old hardware and a different bolt. I needed to ad a brace to keep it from moving. Also two 2 by 2 pieces of pressure treated deck railing bolted to the forks on the bottom and steel pipe clamps on the handle bars. It not only keeps the handle bars from moving forwards or backwards but supports a milk crate via drywall screw on the bottom and tied by wire and zip ties on the top. I hauled a 12 pack of beer and groceries home from Walmart just a while ago.
For now though it is perfect for short trips to Walmart which is about 1.5 miles there and back. There are no hills. I do not have any brakes to install as need to go to a bike shop and spend about $25. Or better yet find a cheap 20" bike at a thrift store and take the front brake off it. I might get lucky and find a straight rear rim with a 16T freewheel as well. I already have the 62T - 8mm sprocket and a 9T motor sprocket somewhere.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
somewhere.
Yea.
The motor in the above post has been overheating during normal operation. My theory is the cheap brush controller with the speed control knob. There is a noticeable odor that you will smell when the insulation inside the motor gets hot. When this happens it is probably too late. The motor will lose efficiency and start overheating during normal operation.
I ordered a brand new 35.6 amp 36V - 1,000 motor a couple weeks ago and installed it on the $20 bike I bought for parts last night. It is a girls Dynacraft Outcast. I attempted to install the new motor on the 20" turbo (above build) but ran into problems with chain clearance..
The other motor was installed on the non pedal side via a spoke sprocket. After some cussing and swearing and bruised fingers I went with the parts bike which is newer and in better condition. The kick stand works and stock seat post. A brand new wheel 16T and 62T - 8mm sprocket and 9T motor for approx. 26 mph gearing.
I could not live with a pink bike. lol. I had to get the can of flat black spray paint and disguise the fact it is a girls bike. It might not be the last or only girls bike build. I wont do the ones where the top bar is lower and more of an angle as dead give away but this top bar is only slightly lower and since my battery mounting style is a large bulky battery on the top bar it actually will look better as the battery wont be as high. With large 26" to 700c I can do a triangle mount but not enough room in a 20" frame for LFP or LTO batteries.
I really wanted to go with an identical front motor and dual controllers but decided not to as a lot more $$$$$ not to mention the extra weight. The high end 35 amp controller will be here Monday if on schedule so have the time to mount the battery rack , front basket and seat before that. The controller is perfect for that motor. Those brush controllers with the built in potentiometer (speed control knob) I would never recommend. They trip my DC circuit breaker which is 40 amp. They are rated at 40 amp but do a very poor job in limiting current at low speed settings.
I have seen those same type of controllers but up to 100 amps and 5 kilowatts. I would not recommend any of them. Also I do not need two motors for most applications and already own two e bikes with dual motors. This build is for mainly flat ground and longevity / reliability.
I am looking at dual motors for my next 20" build though. My vintage 20" BMX Diamondback Viper. Royal Blue. My favorite color. It will sport a 48V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm brush chain drive on the front and 800W w 1,000W controller 20" direct drive hub motor in the rear. I will have the option to run with 48 or 56V. That will be the bike I will take to NY if I go back to visit as = or > 2 kilowatts and = or < 30 mph for those steep hills.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
The motor in the above post has been overheating during normal operation. My theory is the cheap brush controller with the speed control knob. There is a noticeable odor that you will smell when the insulation inside the motor gets hot. When this happens it is probably too late. The motor will lose efficiency and start overheating during normal operation.
I ordered a brand new 35.6 amp 36V - 1,000 motor a couple weeks ago and installed it on the $20 bike I bought for parts last night. It is a girls Dynacraft Outcast. I attempted to install the new motor on the 20" turbo (above build) but ran into problems with chain clearance..
The other motor was installed on the non pedal side via a spoke sprocket. After some cussing and swearing and bruised fingers I went with the parts bike which is newer and in better condition. The kick stand works and stock seat post. A brand new wheel 16T and 62T - 8mm sprocket and 9T motor for approx. 26 mph gearing.
I could not live with a pink bike. lol. I had to get the can of flat black spray paint and disguise the fact it is a girls bike. It might not be the last or only girls bike build. I wont do the ones where the top bar is lower and more of an angle as dead give away but this top bar is only slightly lower and since my battery mounting style is a large bulky battery on the top bar it actually will look better as the battery wont be as high. With large 26" to 700c I can do a triangle mount but not enough room in a 20" frame for LFP or LTO batteries.
I really wanted to go with an identical front motor and dual controllers but decided not to as a lot more $$$$$ not to mention the extra weight. The high end 35 amp controller will be here Monday if on schedule so have the time to mount the battery rack , front basket and seat before that. The controller is perfect for that motor. Those brush controllers with the built in potentiometer (speed control knob) I would never recommend. They trip my DC circuit breaker which is 40 amp. They are rated at 40 amp but do a very poor job in limiting current at low speed settings.
I have seen those same type of controllers but up to 100 amps and 5 kilowatts. I would not recommend any of them. Also I do not need two motors for most applications and already own two e bikes with dual motors. This build is for mainly flat ground and longevity / reliability.
I am looking at dual motors for my next 20" build though. My vintage 20" BMX Diamondback Viper. Royal Blue. My favorite color. It will sport a 48V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm brush chain drive on the front and 800W w 1,000W controller 20" direct drive hub motor in the rear. I will have the option to run with 48 or 56V. That will be the bike I will take to NY if I go back to visit as = or > 2 kilowatts and = or < 30 mph for those steep hills.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
Attachments
Yea.
Still waiting on the replacement for the 36V 35 amp controller. The one they sent is defective. When I pressed the throttle NOTHING. If I press it 4 or 5 times then it works. Less than 2 miles the LVC. It then worked at a lower power level.
To diagnose the problem I hooked the battery up to the 1,500W - 38 amp controller and the 1,800W brushless motor and it worked fine. I thoght mabye I had a short in the throttle so hooked up an old 800 watt 36V controller and it worked perfect. It would only go about 20 mph though and suspect that controller to be < 30 amps.
The ebay seller said that they would send the replacement. I ran the 1,800W brushless motor today with 15S LFP battery. 15S - 8P bt old A123 cells. Top speed was only 28.5 mph on my speedometer smart phone app. 20S - LTO was 32.5 mph a few months ago. My > $200 13S - 7P - 1,200W lithium ion pack does 28 mph so about the same.
Those old A123 cells new are rated at 70 amps per cell. An insane amount of power but LFP is prone to a greater voltage SAG so when the voltage drops so does the top speed.
Each cell has a 50 amp discharge rate so in 8P configuration we are looking at 400 amps. You would never guess it though with the voltage SAG. I was not happy when the 1,800W brushless motor slowed down going up a hill earlier today. That is right before doing 28.5 mph on the flat. My guess is they are about 50% the capacity as new.
The 36V - 1,000W brush motor probably would not have made it up that hill though , especially with the wimpy 800W controller.. The fact is the 1,800W brushless motor is not even close to 1,800W. It is only a 26 amp motor. 48V * 26A 1,248 watts. It would need 72V to be an 1,800W motor. 72V * 26A 1,872W. The strange thing is and reason for ordering the 36V 1,000W Unite motor is the amp rating which is stamped on the motor as advertised. 35.6 amps. 35.6 * 36 = 1,281.6 watts. With the right controller it should out perform the 1,800W brushless motor.
Yes I do have a plan. If I can get the 36V brush motor working with a good controller I should see > or = performance to the 1,800W brushless motor in top speed. Probably not in torque as that brushless motor is a real beast. Once I get that far I will then remove the brush motor and install it on the front of the bike with the brushless motor in the back. I will then increase the voltage to 56V - LFP. I already had 56V hooked up to the defective 36V controller to see if it would work. It did and no LVC issue. I still had to press the throttle 4 or 5 times before it worked.
One thing I did get right was my LFP battery builds. Even though they are old used cells The 12S - 2P - 8Ah Headway cells are rated at 200 amps each so looking at 12S 400 amps. The A123 cells at 50 amps each * 8P = 400 amps. When I ran them together 3.5 miles voltage on both packs were almost identical. Sometimes I get lucky.
There is one more thing that I got lucky on is the gearing. Right now I have two 20 inch ebikes , One low power and the other Mediocre.
For around 50 bucks I can order a 72T - 8mm sprocket and 10T motor and put the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and 70 amp 72V controller on the bike the 36V brush motor is now. I have 12S and 15S now the 15S three separate 16.5V packs each all with 5S active balancers and two with 80 amp inline fuses.
I can go with 36 , 48 , 56, 72 and 89V. The icing on the cake is the gear ratio for the bike with the brush up front and brushless motor in the back. The 35 amp controller works for 56V I want a single thumb throttle as both motors are almost the same gearing.
24S LTO would be heavy for a 20" bike. 72V of LFP would only require 41 amps to get 3,000W.It might work. If it is geared for top speed and needs a little boost up hills and from zero to 20 or 25 mph the 20" 800W hub motor in the front could help than both 20 inch ebikes will sport dual motors.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
Let me know what you think.
Still waiting on the replacement for the 36V 35 amp controller. The one they sent is defective. When I pressed the throttle NOTHING. If I press it 4 or 5 times then it works. Less than 2 miles the LVC. It then worked at a lower power level.
To diagnose the problem I hooked the battery up to the 1,500W - 38 amp controller and the 1,800W brushless motor and it worked fine. I thoght mabye I had a short in the throttle so hooked up an old 800 watt 36V controller and it worked perfect. It would only go about 20 mph though and suspect that controller to be < 30 amps.
The ebay seller said that they would send the replacement. I ran the 1,800W brushless motor today with 15S LFP battery. 15S - 8P bt old A123 cells. Top speed was only 28.5 mph on my speedometer smart phone app. 20S - LTO was 32.5 mph a few months ago. My > $200 13S - 7P - 1,200W lithium ion pack does 28 mph so about the same.
Those old A123 cells new are rated at 70 amps per cell. An insane amount of power but LFP is prone to a greater voltage SAG so when the voltage drops so does the top speed.
Each cell has a 50 amp discharge rate so in 8P configuration we are looking at 400 amps. You would never guess it though with the voltage SAG. I was not happy when the 1,800W brushless motor slowed down going up a hill earlier today. That is right before doing 28.5 mph on the flat. My guess is they are about 50% the capacity as new.
The 36V - 1,000W brush motor probably would not have made it up that hill though , especially with the wimpy 800W controller.. The fact is the 1,800W brushless motor is not even close to 1,800W. It is only a 26 amp motor. 48V * 26A 1,248 watts. It would need 72V to be an 1,800W motor. 72V * 26A 1,872W. The strange thing is and reason for ordering the 36V 1,000W Unite motor is the amp rating which is stamped on the motor as advertised. 35.6 amps. 35.6 * 36 = 1,281.6 watts. With the right controller it should out perform the 1,800W brushless motor.
Yes I do have a plan. If I can get the 36V brush motor working with a good controller I should see > or = performance to the 1,800W brushless motor in top speed. Probably not in torque as that brushless motor is a real beast. Once I get that far I will then remove the brush motor and install it on the front of the bike with the brushless motor in the back. I will then increase the voltage to 56V - LFP. I already had 56V hooked up to the defective 36V controller to see if it would work. It did and no LVC issue. I still had to press the throttle 4 or 5 times before it worked.
One thing I did get right was my LFP battery builds. Even though they are old used cells The 12S - 2P - 8Ah Headway cells are rated at 200 amps each so looking at 12S 400 amps. The A123 cells at 50 amps each * 8P = 400 amps. When I ran them together 3.5 miles voltage on both packs were almost identical. Sometimes I get lucky.
There is one more thing that I got lucky on is the gearing. Right now I have two 20 inch ebikes , One low power and the other Mediocre.
For around 50 bucks I can order a 72T - 8mm sprocket and 10T motor and put the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and 70 amp 72V controller on the bike the 36V brush motor is now. I have 12S and 15S now the 15S three separate 16.5V packs each all with 5S active balancers and two with 80 amp inline fuses.
I can go with 36 , 48 , 56, 72 and 89V. The icing on the cake is the gear ratio for the bike with the brush up front and brushless motor in the back. The 35 amp controller works for 56V I want a single thumb throttle as both motors are almost the same gearing.
24S LTO would be heavy for a 20" bike. 72V of LFP would only require 41 amps to get 3,000W.It might work. If it is geared for top speed and needs a little boost up hills and from zero to 20 or 25 mph the 20" 800W hub motor in the front could help than both 20 inch ebikes will sport dual motors.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
Let me know what you think.
Attachments
5/16/23 1: 03 PM.
The replacement controller was in my mail box.
Just ate a triple burger at Wende's #1 triple meal. I'm tired.
Got pretty drunk last night. Was just thinking about doing all that stuff in my post above.
but !
Houston has a big problem.
I will be lucky if I get the new controller hooked up today.
I'm really lazy.
LOL
Thanks.
Curtis out.
3/16/23
10:07 PM.
There are other options. A 72T wheel sprocket would be an interesting experiment at 48V. 56V did work with the 36V controller but did not feel like it was close to 2 kilowatts. 35.6A * 56 = 1,993.6W - 25% = 1,495.2W to the wheels ; but only ran it briefly with a defective controller. The batteries were not fully charged either. Fully charged it is closer to 60V than 56. Not sure what the CAPs are on that controller.
48V * 35.6A = 1,708.8W - 25% = 1,281.6W. That should be perfect for 29 to 30 mph top speed and still be fairly decent up hill.
Looking at the math and top speed calculator from electric scooter parts I get some interesting data. If I factor in a 25% loss of power in the system it still looks good theoretically. In reality though is another story. One of the main reasons for posting is to see which motors and controllers (if any) live up to the specifications listed when advertised.
For example. Power in watts is often very exaggerated. For example 1,800W @ 48V is an outright lie when the motor is only 26 amps. Both specifications were in the same ad for the same motor.
1800W 48V Brushless Electric Motor Kits Black For ATV Scooter Gokart E-Bike Part
Condition:Brand new
Qty:1x 1800w 48v Brushless Motor
Type : Brushless DC Motor
Output Power: 1800W
Voltage : 48V
Speed:2800- 3000rpm 26A
Motor Sproket : T8F 9T
I would bet against the 36V motor being 35.6 amps and the controller 35 amps. If it is even close to being true I should hit 29 mph @ 48V LTO. Possibly my home built LFP pack but LFP has a lot more SAG than LTO.
High 1000W 36V DC35A Speed Controller f Brush Electric Motor GoKart eScooter A3
A lot of ebike builders would never run LFP or LTO due to the weight and size. The thing is lithium ion is not cheap either. My 13S - 20 Ah factory 18650 lion pack was > $200 and only hit 28 mph on the flat with the 26 amp 48V brushless motor.
If it was a real 1,800W motor it would have been the same as the factory lion pack has a 30 amp BMS. It is 1,200W - 25% friction and heat loss so around 900W to the wheels. 1,200 - 25% = 900.
My $100 home made 15S - 48V - LFP pack is the same or a little better at 28.5 mph. My LTOs - 32.5 mph as much less voltage SAG. Also active balancers instead of a current limiting BMS.
It is not a mystery I like experimenting and love dual motor set ups over a single motor. HOWEVER ! Dual motors is double the load so two motors > 1,000W increases the load to > 40 amps and causes greater voltage SAG with LFP and 18650 lion with a BMS. Only my LTOs can run them with little voltage SAG. The other downfall is the extra weight on the front when rolling the bike up an even short flight of stairs or lifting it on to a bus rack.
One other thing is I really like running a geared hub on the front < 500W. I only have 350W Bafang motors and are all 26" I hate running direct drive motors > 500W on the front. The wheel tends to spin out and can break the drop outs unless torque arms and steel forks. I prefer direct drive hub motors 800 to 1,000W in the rear and 1,000W chain drives in the front.
If I can get the 20" ebike with the brush motor at least close to 30 mph on the flat and half way decent up hills I do not want dual motors. I might just go with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor on the 26" Currie as heavy duty steel frame and mounting room for 60V - 24S LTO. I still have the 20" vintage Diamondback Viper which I can run my 20" - 800W direct drive hub in the rear and a 48V motor up front. I might go with another 26 amp brushless motor for the front. Then run both at 56V.
Hope this one works. Only controller I know that has the extra pins and plugs. Most of my controllers I had to cut and solder the wires direct. I hate doing that if I don't need to.
3/17/23 - 3:49 AM.
I wish they had plugs for motor and power. They did have the spades for a motor plug so soldered them. Have to cut the power plug off which just sucks. There were originally spades on the motor but did such a tight tape job it is like I shrink wrapped it. The original motor wire was a little short anyway so need the extra length. I had to solder the bullets for the wimpy 800W controller. I really hope this new one works as will feel like banging my head up against a wall if it don't.
Thanks.
LC. out.
The replacement controller was in my mail box.
Just ate a triple burger at Wende's #1 triple meal. I'm tired.
Got pretty drunk last night. Was just thinking about doing all that stuff in my post above.
but !
Houston has a big problem.
I will be lucky if I get the new controller hooked up today.
I'm really lazy.
LOL
Thanks.
Curtis out.
3/16/23
10:07 PM.
There are other options. A 72T wheel sprocket would be an interesting experiment at 48V. 56V did work with the 36V controller but did not feel like it was close to 2 kilowatts. 35.6A * 56 = 1,993.6W - 25% = 1,495.2W to the wheels ; but only ran it briefly with a defective controller. The batteries were not fully charged either. Fully charged it is closer to 60V than 56. Not sure what the CAPs are on that controller.
48V * 35.6A = 1,708.8W - 25% = 1,281.6W. That should be perfect for 29 to 30 mph top speed and still be fairly decent up hill.
Looking at the math and top speed calculator from electric scooter parts I get some interesting data. If I factor in a 25% loss of power in the system it still looks good theoretically. In reality though is another story. One of the main reasons for posting is to see which motors and controllers (if any) live up to the specifications listed when advertised.
For example. Power in watts is often very exaggerated. For example 1,800W @ 48V is an outright lie when the motor is only 26 amps. Both specifications were in the same ad for the same motor.
1800W 48V Brushless Electric Motor Kits Black For ATV Scooter Gokart E-Bike Part
Condition:Brand new
Qty:1x 1800w 48v Brushless Motor
Type : Brushless DC Motor
Output Power: 1800W
Voltage : 48V
Speed:2800- 3000rpm 26A
Motor Sproket : T8F 9T
I would bet against the 36V motor being 35.6 amps and the controller 35 amps. If it is even close to being true I should hit 29 mph @ 48V LTO. Possibly my home built LFP pack but LFP has a lot more SAG than LTO.
MY1020 1000W 36V with Base Electric Motor Volt DC Watt 35.6 Amp for Scooter Bike Go-Kart Mini Bike Replace ZY1020 Reversible w 11 Teeth Sprocket #25 Chain by Alfa Wheels (1000W 36V, Bottom Base)
High 1000W 36V DC35A Speed Controller f Brush Electric Motor GoKart eScooter A3
High 1000W 36V DC35A Speed Controller f Brush Electric Motor GoKart eScooter A3 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for High 1000W 36V DC35A Speed Controller f Brush Electric Motor GoKart eScooter A3 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
A lot of ebike builders would never run LFP or LTO due to the weight and size. The thing is lithium ion is not cheap either. My 13S - 20 Ah factory 18650 lion pack was > $200 and only hit 28 mph on the flat with the 26 amp 48V brushless motor.
If it was a real 1,800W motor it would have been the same as the factory lion pack has a 30 amp BMS. It is 1,200W - 25% friction and heat loss so around 900W to the wheels. 1,200 - 25% = 900.
My $100 home made 15S - 48V - LFP pack is the same or a little better at 28.5 mph. My LTOs - 32.5 mph as much less voltage SAG. Also active balancers instead of a current limiting BMS.
It is not a mystery I like experimenting and love dual motor set ups over a single motor. HOWEVER ! Dual motors is double the load so two motors > 1,000W increases the load to > 40 amps and causes greater voltage SAG with LFP and 18650 lion with a BMS. Only my LTOs can run them with little voltage SAG. The other downfall is the extra weight on the front when rolling the bike up an even short flight of stairs or lifting it on to a bus rack.
One other thing is I really like running a geared hub on the front < 500W. I only have 350W Bafang motors and are all 26" I hate running direct drive motors > 500W on the front. The wheel tends to spin out and can break the drop outs unless torque arms and steel forks. I prefer direct drive hub motors 800 to 1,000W in the rear and 1,000W chain drives in the front.
If I can get the 20" ebike with the brush motor at least close to 30 mph on the flat and half way decent up hills I do not want dual motors. I might just go with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor on the 26" Currie as heavy duty steel frame and mounting room for 60V - 24S LTO. I still have the 20" vintage Diamondback Viper which I can run my 20" - 800W direct drive hub in the rear and a 48V motor up front. I might go with another 26 amp brushless motor for the front. Then run both at 56V.
Hope this one works. Only controller I know that has the extra pins and plugs. Most of my controllers I had to cut and solder the wires direct. I hate doing that if I don't need to.
3/17/23 - 3:49 AM.
I wish they had plugs for motor and power. They did have the spades for a motor plug so soldered them. Have to cut the power plug off which just sucks. There were originally spades on the motor but did such a tight tape job it is like I shrink wrapped it. The original motor wire was a little short anyway so need the extra length. I had to solder the bullets for the wimpy 800W controller. I really hope this new one works as will feel like banging my head up against a wall if it don't.
Thanks.
LC. out.
The new controller works. I tested it with my 36V pack as well as my 48V and the throttle works every time. I still have to press it about half way before the wheel spins but no longer need to press it 4 or 5 times like before.
The only wire I needed to cut was the power lock. There is a very slight chance that is what caused the problem on the first controller. I jumped the terminals with two small pieces of wire but were smaller than a paper clip which I normally use. This time I cut the plug and twisted the wires together. I came up with a power plug using what I had so the motor and power as well as the throttle plug are all intact.
The only test left is riding it but it has been raining all day here. I am hoping there will be adequate power up hills and will easily do the 25 mph it is geared for at 36V. I would need to swap the 62T wheel to a 72T if I want to go 48V. I would rather run it at 36V and not add a front motor to keep the weight down and not push the 36V pack harder with the extra load. I will require LTO for dual motors as higher performance battery chemistry. This ebike is for general all around daily use. Not for racing or long range cruising in the country and up steep hills.
I will be working on the 26" dual suspension with the direct drive 1,000W hub and the Currie with the 3 kilowatt motor for that. I am also moving into a house with a full basement with concrete floors. I can then safely charge 18650 lion as well as Lipo if I want to so LTO is not my only option for greater range and performance.
Thanks.
LC out.
LC. out.
The only wire I needed to cut was the power lock. There is a very slight chance that is what caused the problem on the first controller. I jumped the terminals with two small pieces of wire but were smaller than a paper clip which I normally use. This time I cut the plug and twisted the wires together. I came up with a power plug using what I had so the motor and power as well as the throttle plug are all intact.
The only test left is riding it but it has been raining all day here. I am hoping there will be adequate power up hills and will easily do the 25 mph it is geared for at 36V. I would need to swap the 62T wheel to a 72T if I want to go 48V. I would rather run it at 36V and not add a front motor to keep the weight down and not push the 36V pack harder with the extra load. I will require LTO for dual motors as higher performance battery chemistry. This ebike is for general all around daily use. Not for racing or long range cruising in the country and up steep hills.
I will be working on the 26" dual suspension with the direct drive 1,000W hub and the Currie with the 3 kilowatt motor for that. I am also moving into a house with a full basement with concrete floors. I can then safely charge 18650 lion as well as Lipo if I want to so LTO is not my only option for greater range and performance.
Thanks.
LC out.
LC. out.
yea.
The 35 amp controllers may not be defective. I don't know for sure. The replacement still does not work every time I press the throttle. I still have to press it at least twice before it kicks in. Not every time though like the other. It could be the battery was not charged all the way the first time. Not sure. They work but top speed is only about 15 mph and less than 2 miles LVC happens as soon as I press the throttle about 3/4 the way. Also the throttle don't even kick in until about 1/2 way. A 350W Bafang with a 18 amp controller could easily out perform the 1,281 watt motor and 35 amp controller.
That is why I messaged the seller stating the controller was defective. I honestly thought it was. It may not be as the replacement acts about the same. It is simply incompatible with the LFP battery I am currently using as too much voltage drop under load. Also upon thorough investigation those controllers need a special type of throttle. Most 36 and 48V controllers state on the label , Handle 0 - 4V. Handle is throttle. These high performance controllers need a 0 - 5v throttle. That explains why it don't work until pressed about half way. That is my best guess.
Also I would guess the LVC to be around 32V. Maybe even 33V. Not sure. Most controllers with a 0 4V handle have a 30 or 31V LVC cutoff. How was I to know. I ordered the first controller as it was rated at 35 amps and the motor was rated at 35.6 amps. I have not tried those controllers with my LTO batteries. They are 16S. 2.5 * 16 = 40V. Also very little voltage drop under load. However it is not worth the trouble without a 0 5V throttle.
I unhooked the replacement 35 amp controller and hooked the wimpy 800W 36V controller back up. I also hooked the 40 amp 2,000 watt controller with the speed control knob. The same controller I blamed for burning out the first 36V - 1,000W motor I bought about 2 years ago that is now in a garbage dump somewhere as was overheating badly.
I tested the new 35.6 amp 36V motor with the 2,000W controller and got > 28 mph on a slight decline for about 1/2 mile. I then went down the steepest hill I know of around here which is really not that steep compared to upstate NY hills but steep for around here. The motor was not even warm but it is only about 30 degrees today. It went up the hill almost as fast as the 1,800 watt brushless motor. I then went the 1/2 mile back to my apartment building. The motor was still barley warm.
The second test was a 3 mile round trip to Wall-Mart. I switched to the 800W brush controller with the thumb throttle. I am really not happy with that either as at low speed it cuts in and out and choppy. Not sure why. I switched back to the other controller and went real slow to see what would happen. The motor did get slightly warmer. That is the main issue I got with the 40 amp controller with the speed control knob. It dumps way too many amps in the motor at low speed. I switched back just before hitting the Walmart parking lot. I used the 800W controller for the trip back home.
Battery voltage back home is 39.5V. About the same as a normal Walmart trip without the extra mile or so at top speed and up a hill. Very strange. Same resting voltage for about 3 miles as 4 miles , especially at full throttle for that extra mile. LFP is an odd chemistry anyway as It holds its voltage at around 3.3V for about 80% of its discharge but when it drops it drops very fast when under 3V per cell. Especially older cells. They drop like a ton of bricks. Only reason I deal with it is they charge back up at least 5 times faster than lithium ion , Lipo or SLA. Only LTO can charge faster than LFP.
I know I am dealing with at least one bad cell bank self discharging as I see a led light on the 12S active balancer almost all the time now. How much can I b**ch though as I ordered 20 - 8Ah Headway cells originally and they replaced 6 bad ones for free and sent me 16 more for free for a Christmas gift. I was hoping for a 12S - 1P pack but due to 50 to 60% capacity from brand new I had to go with 24 cells - 12s - 2P to get any usable range out of it. Brand new Headway cells are ridiculous in price though.
The reason I ordered a 1,000W - 36V brush motor was for the 12S - 2P Headway pack I built as about 15 pounds lighter than 16S LTO. I needed a lighter bike with decent performance. I really don't know what to do with those two controllers. There are some good things about them. I believe they have 60V Caps. Could be 58V. I had 56V hooked up to one and it worked. If I get a compatible throttle I could do a dual motor set up with a single throttle. Those 35.6 amp motors are close to 1,500W at 48V. I would need to see that on a meter though as those controllers are rated for 36 volts and 1,260 watts. I do not know if the higher voltage will make them push more than that.
Another thing I like is they run much smoother than the 800W - 36V controller at really slow speeds. However as soon as I need some power the LVC kicks in and spoils it. With a future dual motor set up though I should be able to push >40 mph and > 2,400 watts with a single thumb throttle running 48 or 56V. I just need to find a compatible thumb throttle first. That is if that is really the problem. I am simply guessing and since I get very little feed back here in this forum I might never know for sure.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
The 35 amp controllers may not be defective. I don't know for sure. The replacement still does not work every time I press the throttle. I still have to press it at least twice before it kicks in. Not every time though like the other. It could be the battery was not charged all the way the first time. Not sure. They work but top speed is only about 15 mph and less than 2 miles LVC happens as soon as I press the throttle about 3/4 the way. Also the throttle don't even kick in until about 1/2 way. A 350W Bafang with a 18 amp controller could easily out perform the 1,281 watt motor and 35 amp controller.
That is why I messaged the seller stating the controller was defective. I honestly thought it was. It may not be as the replacement acts about the same. It is simply incompatible with the LFP battery I am currently using as too much voltage drop under load. Also upon thorough investigation those controllers need a special type of throttle. Most 36 and 48V controllers state on the label , Handle 0 - 4V. Handle is throttle. These high performance controllers need a 0 - 5v throttle. That explains why it don't work until pressed about half way. That is my best guess.
Also I would guess the LVC to be around 32V. Maybe even 33V. Not sure. Most controllers with a 0 4V handle have a 30 or 31V LVC cutoff. How was I to know. I ordered the first controller as it was rated at 35 amps and the motor was rated at 35.6 amps. I have not tried those controllers with my LTO batteries. They are 16S. 2.5 * 16 = 40V. Also very little voltage drop under load. However it is not worth the trouble without a 0 5V throttle.
I unhooked the replacement 35 amp controller and hooked the wimpy 800W 36V controller back up. I also hooked the 40 amp 2,000 watt controller with the speed control knob. The same controller I blamed for burning out the first 36V - 1,000W motor I bought about 2 years ago that is now in a garbage dump somewhere as was overheating badly.
I tested the new 35.6 amp 36V motor with the 2,000W controller and got > 28 mph on a slight decline for about 1/2 mile. I then went down the steepest hill I know of around here which is really not that steep compared to upstate NY hills but steep for around here. The motor was not even warm but it is only about 30 degrees today. It went up the hill almost as fast as the 1,800 watt brushless motor. I then went the 1/2 mile back to my apartment building. The motor was still barley warm.
The second test was a 3 mile round trip to Wall-Mart. I switched to the 800W brush controller with the thumb throttle. I am really not happy with that either as at low speed it cuts in and out and choppy. Not sure why. I switched back to the other controller and went real slow to see what would happen. The motor did get slightly warmer. That is the main issue I got with the 40 amp controller with the speed control knob. It dumps way too many amps in the motor at low speed. I switched back just before hitting the Walmart parking lot. I used the 800W controller for the trip back home.
Battery voltage back home is 39.5V. About the same as a normal Walmart trip without the extra mile or so at top speed and up a hill. Very strange. Same resting voltage for about 3 miles as 4 miles , especially at full throttle for that extra mile. LFP is an odd chemistry anyway as It holds its voltage at around 3.3V for about 80% of its discharge but when it drops it drops very fast when under 3V per cell. Especially older cells. They drop like a ton of bricks. Only reason I deal with it is they charge back up at least 5 times faster than lithium ion , Lipo or SLA. Only LTO can charge faster than LFP.
I know I am dealing with at least one bad cell bank self discharging as I see a led light on the 12S active balancer almost all the time now. How much can I b**ch though as I ordered 20 - 8Ah Headway cells originally and they replaced 6 bad ones for free and sent me 16 more for free for a Christmas gift. I was hoping for a 12S - 1P pack but due to 50 to 60% capacity from brand new I had to go with 24 cells - 12s - 2P to get any usable range out of it. Brand new Headway cells are ridiculous in price though.
The reason I ordered a 1,000W - 36V brush motor was for the 12S - 2P Headway pack I built as about 15 pounds lighter than 16S LTO. I needed a lighter bike with decent performance. I really don't know what to do with those two controllers. There are some good things about them. I believe they have 60V Caps. Could be 58V. I had 56V hooked up to one and it worked. If I get a compatible throttle I could do a dual motor set up with a single throttle. Those 35.6 amp motors are close to 1,500W at 48V. I would need to see that on a meter though as those controllers are rated for 36 volts and 1,260 watts. I do not know if the higher voltage will make them push more than that.
Another thing I like is they run much smoother than the 800W - 36V controller at really slow speeds. However as soon as I need some power the LVC kicks in and spoils it. With a future dual motor set up though I should be able to push >40 mph and > 2,400 watts with a single thumb throttle running 48 or 56V. I just need to find a compatible thumb throttle first. That is if that is really the problem. I am simply guessing and since I get very little feed back here in this forum I might never know for sure.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
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