5/16/23 1: 03 PM.
The replacement controller was in my mail box.
Just ate a triple burger at Wende's #1 triple meal. I'm tired.
Got pretty drunk last night. Was just thinking about doing all that stuff in my post above.
Houston has a big problem.
I will be lucky if I get the new controller hooked up today.
I'm really lazy.
There are other options. A 72T wheel sprocket would be an interesting experiment at 48V. 56V did work with the 36V controller but did not feel like it was close to 2 kilowatts. 35.6A * 56 = 1,993.6W - 25% = 1,495.2W to the wheels ; but only ran it briefly with a defective controller. The batteries were not fully charged either. Fully charged it is closer to 60V than 56. Not sure what the CAPs are on that controller.
48V * 35.6A = 1,708.8W - 25% = 1,281.6W. That should be perfect for 29 to 30 mph top speed and still be fairly decent up hill.
Looking at the math and top speed calculator from electric scooter parts I get some interesting data. If I factor in a 25% loss of power in the system it still looks good theoretically. In reality though is another story. One of the main reasons for posting is to see which motors and controllers (if any) live up to the specifications listed when advertised.
For example. Power in watts is often very exaggerated. For example 1,800W @ 48V is an outright lie when the motor is only 26 amps. Both specifications were in the same ad for the same motor.
1800W 48V Brushless Electric Motor Kits Black For ATV Scooter Gokart E-Bike Part
Qty:1x 1800w 48v Brushless Motor
Type : Brushless DC Motor
Output Power: 1800W
Voltage : 48V
Speed:2800- 3000rpm 26A
Motor Sproket : T8F 9T
I would bet against the 36V motor being 35.6 amps and the controller 35 amps. If it is even close to being true I should hit 29 mph @ 48V LTO. Possibly my home built LFP pack but LFP has a lot more SAG than LTO.
MY1020 1000W 36V with Base Electric Motor Volt DC Watt 35.6 Amp for Scooter Bike Go-Kart Mini Bike Replace ZY1020 Reversible w 11 Teeth Sprocket #25 Chain by Alfa Wheels (1000W 36V, Bottom Base)
High 1000W 36V DC35A Speed Controller f Brush Electric Motor GoKart eScooter A3
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for High 1000W 36V DC35A Speed Controller f Brush Electric Motor GoKart eScooter A3 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
A lot of ebike builders would never run LFP or LTO due to the weight and size. The thing is lithium ion is not cheap either. My 13S - 20 Ah factory 18650 lion pack was > $200 and only hit 28 mph on the flat with the 26 amp 48V brushless motor.
If it was a real 1,800W motor it would have been the same as the factory lion pack has a 30 amp BMS. It is 1,200W - 25% friction and heat loss so around 900W to the wheels. 1,200 - 25% = 900.
My $100 home made 15S - 48V - LFP pack is the same or a little better at 28.5 mph. My LTOs - 32.5 mph as much less voltage SAG. Also active balancers instead of a current limiting BMS.
It is not a mystery I like experimenting and love dual motor set ups over a single motor. HOWEVER ! Dual motors is double the load so two motors > 1,000W increases the load to > 40 amps and causes greater voltage SAG with LFP and 18650 lion with a BMS. Only my LTOs can run them with little voltage SAG. The other downfall is the extra weight on the front when rolling the bike up an even short flight of stairs or lifting it on to a bus rack.
One other thing is I really like running a geared hub on the front < 500W. I only have 350W Bafang motors and are all 26" I hate running direct drive motors > 500W on the front. The wheel tends to spin out and can break the drop outs unless torque arms and steel forks. I prefer direct drive hub motors 800 to 1,000W in the rear and 1,000W chain drives in the front.
If I can get the 20" ebike with the brush motor at least close to 30 mph on the flat and half way decent up hills I do not want dual motors. I might just go with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor on the 26" Currie as heavy duty steel frame and mounting room for 60V - 24S LTO. I still have the 20" vintage Diamondback Viper which I can run my 20" - 800W direct drive hub in the rear and a 48V motor up front. I might go with another 26 amp brushless motor for the front. Then run both at 56V.
Hope this one works. Only controller I know that has the extra pins and plugs. Most of my controllers I had to cut and solder the wires direct. I hate doing that if I don't need to.
3/17/23 - 3:49 AM.
I wish they had plugs for motor and power. They did have the spades for a motor plug so soldered them. Have to cut the power plug off which just sucks. There were originally spades on the motor but did such a tight tape job it is like I shrink wrapped it. The original motor wire was a little short anyway so need the extra length. I had to solder the bullets for the wimpy 800W controller. I really hope this new one works as will feel like banging my head up against a wall if it don't.