1,800W & 3,000W brushless motors with 20S to 24S - 18 ah LTOs and brush chain drives.


Local time
4:52 PM
Oct 19, 2021
I will be working on a custom build for my brushless motor. It is currently on a 20" BMX style bike and since I have no welding skills, I used wood. Recently I acquired a wire welder and want to weld a steel plate to replace the wood. However, need to be able to loosen the chain to change a flat tire and need a couple inches and a way to keep the chain tight. The controller is 1,500W and runs 36 to 48V. 38 amps. 48V * 38 amps = 1,824W total. Gearing will be around 35 to 36 mph.

I ran the bike before with a 30 amp 1,200W lion battery which was 13S - 7P. Top speed was 28 mph. I also ran it with 16S - LIFEPO4 - 5P but the cells were not top quality and was considerable voltage sag and 25 mph was the top speed. I am not sure if I will be using the 20" frame as mounting 20S - LTO will be a challenge. It needs to be low center of gravity. Also, I am only 5 feet 8 inches so do not want it to be over 24" bike.

It is a summer project. I also have a 3,000W brushless motor that needs to be built. I have a 70-amp 60V controller for that. I have two working 8S - LTO packs both with active cell balancers and 8 - LTOs left over. I bought two 4S active balancers for 50V or 60V. The problem is the weight and mounting options.

I will keep posting when I start making progress.


Curtis out.

Looking at swapping motors. I removed the 1,800W brushless motor from the 20" BMX. I still need a piece of #40 roller chain. I have a 26" Currie eZip Trailz. My first e bike purchased at Wall-Mart back in 2013. I have had about half a dozen motors on it and currently has a 36V - 1,000W unite brush chain drive in the rear and 350W Bafang up front. The problem with it is someone lied when they rated the motor at 3,000 rpm @ 36V.

I do not see it. I had two 48V - 3,000 rpm 1,000W motors in the past which ran circles around this 36V lie. Much greater acceleration and about 5 or 6 mph faster top speed. I am not sure, but gearing is supposed to be for 28 mph. IT might do it but takes forever. It acts over-geared. I had a 40 amp controller and did not hit more than 28 mph.

The 1,800W brushless motor is 3,000 rpms at 48V. - 1,500W and geared for 35 mph @ 40V - LTO - 2,500 rpm That is with a 26" wheel.

The 20" bike will get the 36V - brush - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm ????? in the rear with a 89T wheel and 11T motor - #25 chain. 20" wheel is only 22 mph. If it goes faster, I know it is over geared.

I won't be finished there though. I am looking at an 800W - 36V brush Unite motor up front. It is 2,750 rpm at 36V. With an 80T #25 sprocket I will get 22 mph as well.

The interesting part however is they can handle 50V - LTO which will net 30 mph and a whopping 1,388 + 1111 = 2,499 watts. I plan on full brake upgrades and using it for steady 25 to 27 mph cruising. With two motors and controllers sharing the load and heat dissipation it should hold up and be reliable plus long lasting.

As for the others I will be removing the front Bafang from both the Currie and 26" Dual suspension. The 26" dual suspension with rhe 48V 1,000W direct drive will see 60V - LTO. 1,250W and 32 mph. I have a third Bafang motor so would like a trike. I want two front wheels though. Thinking about bolting two forks to one. Then I can run two Bafangs up front and one in the rear. All off one throttle.

I ran dual Bafangs today for almost 15 miles with my 16S - LTOs. My vintage 90s Diamondback Outlook. top speed is limited to 20 mph but the Bafang motors seem to be reliable work horses.

I will post when more progress is made.


Curtis out

It is about thumb throttles. I use a single thumb throttle for dual 350W Bafangs.

I had two motors on the same 20" BMX about 5 years ago. A 500W - 2,500 rpm 24V and the 800W - 36V - 2,750 rpm 36V both brushed. At 36V it was 20+ mph. At 48V 30+. two throttles. The front 2,750W motor was with a 60T #410 chain. The 24V - 2,500W motor sported #25 chain and 80T wheel sprocket. Basically, was same thing I am building but will be experimenting with single vs dual throttles.

I took both motors off for the 1,800W brushless motor. That is why the 1,800W brushless motor on the Currie is a huge upgrade from the wimpy over geared motor.

But that s**tty motor working with another almost equal and over volted will equal an animal capable of 30 mph quickly. > 2 kilowatts. Just use the throttle to control it. Should work with single throttle. Take it easy. lol. 48V is like turbo mode. Do 36V first 20+ mph gearing then switch to 48 or 50V. lol

The sprockets, chains and other parts I already have. Except for a left thread nut for motor sprocket and a piece of #40 roller chain.

Thanks for posting. I will do pics. and video when I start building.

Not sure what building first. I have three running but want to upgrade two. Then start working on the others.


Curtis out.

Looking at my 3,000W brushless motor which is 60V - 4,800 rpm @ 50V - LTO - 4,000 rpm.
The Boma controller works from 48 - 72V. 3,000W / 60 * 50 = 2,500W.
That is for a 20" wheel. For a 26" wheel I will need a 10T motor and 72T wheel 8mm sprocket for 43 mph gearing.
Not sure which way I am going with it.

The 1,800W brushless motor is 3,000 rpm @ 48V but the controller is only 38 amps so 38 * 50 = 1,900. 39 mph gearing with a 24" rear wheel and 11T motor and 60T wheel. I could use the 3,000W controller with the 1,800W motor though and get 2,500W to the motor @ 50V - LTO and if I use a 26"-wheel 42 mph gearing.

I am not sure which way I am going with it. I might try 48V - 1,900W and 39 mph gearing first and see how it runs.


Curtis out.
The 1,800W brushless motor will go back on the little 20" BMX bike. I could not install the 1,000W - 36V brush chain drive as no good 20" rear wheels. One has a loose axle due to bearings I think, and the other wheel needs true and the bike shop wants me to drop it off and pick up a week or two later. I will be using the 20" wheel with the 56T sprocket that was on it. It is a spoke sprocket, and I added a second rubber piece to allow extra room for the thicker #40 chain.

I will install the 3,000W brushless motor on the Currie and the 1,000W and 800W - 36V chain drives on the Haro V3 later. That is the game plan for now. I have bills to catch up on and a budget to work on before I can order more parts online. I am hoping for 35 mph with the 1,800W brushless motor soon. The motor is re-installed and got a nut for the new #40 - 11T motor sprocket. The wheel sprocket is re-installed so just need to get #40 chain at the tractor supply store and find my chain breaker in storage. Then re-install the 1,500W 48V - 38 amp controller.


Curtis out.


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making progress. 16S - LTO - 40V there. The controller is 36 to 48V.

yea. it is wide. over 13-1/2 " No pedal chain so the pedal in the front is an issue. Just a tad uncomfortable.

It could be solved though by extending the pedal out about 3 or 4"

With the sturdy rear rack, a large cargo basket is possible. The 4S - LTO pack can fit behind the seat as the 10-gauge series cables will easily reach.

I ran 20S - 50V - LTO with the 26" dual suspension with the 1000W - DD hub and 350W Bafang up front. It has one broken spoke and sitting in storage. I will replace before riding it. Way too much weight with 37 pounds of LTOs and my 230 or so.

I have the 20" - 800W - DD in storage with 5 broken spokes. I need to replace some, maybe all the spokes due to rust. I know a bike shop that will make them for 2 bucks a piece. It is too far so will mail them out and fix both hub motors.

The 20" will go on the front with the stock 1.000W controller that came with the 26" - DD. The 26" - DD is run by a 1,000W 35-amp sensor less.

The 20" hub in the front will easily achieve 24 maybe 25 mph. The 1,800W brushless motor 35 mph. I can start out with the front hub and then kick in the back It should pull hard from 0 to 25 mph and after that wont need the front motor so will just hit the left throttle for the 1,800W brushless motor.

However up hills they will really help each other out and will climb the hill quicker than most single motor e bikes and a lot of gas as well.
Other reason for a front hub is if rear OR front system failure. Only thing they will share are the LTO batteries. separate throttles / motors and controllers. DC breakers also. It reduces the chance of being stranded or pushing a heavy e bike down the road.

1,800W + 1,000W = 2,800W. 35 mph gearing. I will test it soon with just the rear chain. It could take a week or so before I get the hub motor fixed but have the controller and torque arms as well as DC switch and 10-gauge wiring.


Curtis out.


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Making a few changes.

Perfect place to put controller. closer to the DC breaker which will go on the handlebar. I need to solder 10 gauge wire and find ring terminals for the breaker. Then bolt down the rear board and find a black milk crate for a rear basket. The 4S - LTO will go back there for 50 working volts of LTO. Also, easier to cover with a tarp to keep water out.

Also, the rear rack was a terrible spot for the controller. Now if I have to adjust the motor alignment or change the rear tube / tire it is just one bolt attaching the rear rack to the seat post and removing the seat.

Curtis out.

32.5 mph on GPS speed phone app.


I guess it could be the chain is rubbing against the frame. , too tight or something.




Gearing was for 35 mph (sept 4, 2022 above) so the stretch of road could add or subtract from top speed. Seemed faster at full throttle on way back but phone was dead. 12% on the way but 32.5 mph top speed. GPS also has some lag as only maintained that speed a few seconds. I would have :cry: if it did not hit 30 mph. It is the fastest I ever traveled on two wheels. (Flat stretch of road) At least 1/8 mile after a downgrade. farther if major downhill. Marinating speed on flat ground. Never rode a gas motor bike. Pedal most of my life and now electric since around 2013.

Had to grind the frame for chain clearance. Uninstalled and re installed several more times for alignment. Tried to order a 415 sprocket from electric scooter parts for 415 chain but card address error. I need to change address at my bank. Need a separate card for online orders anyway.

420 chain at tractor supply is wider and hits the frame so took a grinder to it. Still hits a little. It clicks but don't get worse when full throttle. Need to reinforce the other side / outside. A piece of flat 1/3" steel could work. ?????. Should grind another 1/16" or so but sick of working on it.
The main bolts are getting stripped and won't keep supporting. I will need to replace / start over the wood mounting bracket. It is running and using Lucas chain lube.

Got a wire welder. 90 amps.

I know one thing. Brushless chain drives RULE. Serious power and like a built in Jake brake. It slows down when no throttle. Coasts slower downhill than brush motors. Good to have if you do not have adequate brakes.

I still have the 3,000W brushless motor / controller and 70-amp controller. :D

I know I can go 40 mph when I want to. Especially running Lishen 18 Ah - LTOs. > or = to Tesla batteries.

Not sure if I want to though. :eek:

worst case scenario. Roadkill / pizza.

I may want to invest in a good crash helmet first. :LOL:

maybe life insurance. :LOL:

Curtis out.
No luck learning how to weld to reenforce the frame. I will need to go with plan B which is the strongest grade bolts I can find and some flat steel bar on the outside and then grind another 1/8" to stop the clinging where the chain hits on the 20" bike with the 1,800W bruhless motor.

I worked on the Currie today. I reinstalled the 750W - 36V gear reduction motor. There is a 350W - 36V Bafang up front. Total power at 50V will be 1,486W. - 1,000W from the rear chain and 486 from the front Bafang. I did this instead of the 3,000W brushless motor as I do not have a card to order a 72T - 8mm wheel sprocket for the 24" wheel.

I can't afford it as saving up to buy a car for $650. I already have the stock 26" Currie wheel with the cassette on the right and 20T left thread freewheel on the other side for pedal so two motors + pedal. :) The 3,000W motor is 4,800 rpm so for proper gearing a 20" wheel and 72T - 8mm sprocket is required. Any larger wheel will need a custom sprocket 95T minimum.

Also gearing for the rear chain and front Bafang is close. About 2 mph difference. The Bafang is 20 mph @ 36V so 20 mph / 36 = 0.555 * 50 = 27.7 mph. The rear chain is gear reduction so 480 rpm, 480 / 36 = 13.3 * 50 =


They should work great together and have a pair of wide knobby tires for winter. The motor is installed. I just need a master link for the chain and will upgrade the wiring.


LC. out.

3:48 AM. - 9 - 25 - 22.

Yea. 3 speed standard bike chain for the Currie. I bought it in 2013. Ezip Trailz. My first e bike. Built dozens since and 5 running currently, 7 or 8 potentially with the parts I have.

Stock Currie was the 450W - 24V gear reduction motor. Now a 750W gear reduction motor in the rear and Bafang up front. The testing was just a few minutes ago for full throttle both front and rear. Two throttles. Like the 26" Dual Suspension you can feel the front motor kick in for acceleration even at full throttle for > 20 seconds. Up any incline where the bike is < 25 mph is very noticeable full throttle. They are working together at 40V.

When I left my friend's house 1.5 miles away or so it was starting to rain and lightning bolts were bouncing around. I went all out full both throttles most of the way. Only slowing down little during inter sections when I had to, All I had was my hoody to cover s**t up so was not Lolly gagging around. The 750W chain drive did the trick.

I just tightened everything up. It was only a little bit looser than before I took the ride, not much. Virgin install. A good sign the installation was proper. When installing a chain drive 90% of the time it fails in a few feet or block or two at most if not properly installed. All pipe clamps and carriage bolts. Phone is dead and until I find the charge cable no pictures, but installation was a success the first try. Like the 1,800W brushless motor build I use braces and pipe clamps to reinforce carriage bolts.

Not your standard build and unorthodox but until I learn to weld and acquire the proper steel mounting brackets/hardware I use PT. wood and carriage bolts and steel pipe clamps for support.

I got thick steel flat bar for the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor. I also got grade 8 1/4" bolts and using that and smll pipe clamps to reinforce the outside frame so can grind another 1/8" for chain clearance as the clinging drives me nuts. I will be very happy when both e bikes are 100%.

First, I will be upgrading the wiring and swapping the wimpy 36V - 1,000W controller for a 48V - 1,000W controller for the Currie. Then I will work on the 20" e bike. I will eventually post pictures here and some video on and off board. I have a power meter that displays watts, amps and voltage. Since a single battery for the dual motor Currie, it will be interesting data.

I could swap the 3,000W motor for the 1,800W but thinking about a separate 20" build. I have a Stingray chopper frame, but it needs some serious welding. I think a 24" wheel goes in the front and the 20" wheel I got is an extra wide rim for a fat tire. in the back :)
I will need chopper forks as well as a seat and handlebars plus brakes. A lot of work. A winter project.

The first 5 attachments are the 26" e zip build. The tire on the back is wide. The rim wider than the front stock Bafang rim so might not be able to put the matching tire of the one that is in the rear but will find something which is similar but slightly narrower to fit. I mounted the controllers close together so the wires would be shorter.

For the 60-amp breaker for the 1.000W rear motor / 40-amp controller I used double 16-gauge speaker wire. Negative and positive so four strands * 16 gauge. Only two for the 18-amp controller. 2 * 16 gauge. The reason I did not use 10 gauge was I could not find my solder and 10 gauge is way too stiff to do it without solder. I had to compromise. As soon as I find decent 40 / 60 lead solder I will upgrade the motor wires. They are currently 2 * 16 gauge for each. I will replace each with 10 gauge.

The last three attachments on the bottom show the 20" build with the 1,800W brushless motor and extra wide #40 motorcycle chain. I used a drill attachment and a file to get the chain clearance I needed. I am very happy I did not need to take of the chain and have to wrestle with it to make it line up again as it is perfectly lined up. It was just clinking on the frame.

I decided NOT to drill holes thru the frame for the 1/4" grade 8 bolts as drilling those holes could further weaken the frame. Instead, I cut a 3/8" thick 4 - 1/2" long piece for the top and 3 - 1/2" piece for the bottom and used the steel hose / pipe clamps one on each side of the parts of the frame I grinded and filed down for chain clearance.

I am very happy with the final result. I have a can of flat black rust oleum paint and plan on taking it outside tomorrow to hit those spots I grinded and filed to stop any future rust. I am looking for acrylic primer and paint for the wood also. That and a better tire on the front of the Currie and both projects will be done. I will take the Currie to storage for room for my next project. Probably will be taking a break for a while and enjoy riding. The 20" bike will be my main ride as takes up less room in my 450 square foot apartment.


Curtis out.


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most people would never admit this stuff. I was really drunk and don't even remember the crash. Not that anyone really cares or posts here. This forum is not endless sphere. They are a bunch of total assholes. Why I post here. Not there.

had a really drunken black out moment. Totally destroyed the front Bafang motor on the Currie. Don't even remember the impact. All fuzzy but happened on the road about 1/2 mile from my house. A really stupid moment-

I will post some pictures tomorrow of the front Bafang wheel. It is really hammered.

I had to carry 45 pounds of LTO batteries about 1/2 mile to get my 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor.

I literally tied nylon rope to the dead Currie and drug it all the way home. The brushless motor was red hot but still runs. When it dies I have the 3,000W brushless motor to replace,

I will get a onboard video of 1,800W brushless motor if it still works. It does. I run it after it cooled down.

I drug a 65- or 70-pound e bike about 1/2 a mile. It was on its side tied with a nylon rope. Yea. I am nuts.


Curtis out.
We do care Curtis. Dont drink and Ride is all i can say.

So are you alright? No injuries?

I hope you're doing well.

Ride Safe! :cool:

Modern day complete ebike likely cost less than the money/time/effort you spent on your conversion, whilst designed & meant to perform at higher speeds & support the extra weight of battery/motor/accessories, etc..
There are honestly bad candidates for ebike conversions, especially at higher speeds & load carrying capacity.
yea. A little sore on my right side but not bad. The rear rack is broken, and the right pedal crank is bent. The front wheel with the Bafang motor took the brunt of the damage. I will take pictures later. Not drinking hard liquor again and riding. Never had a problem with a few beers but no more liquor unless I am home for the night.

The plan is to get my spare Bafang wheel from storage and try to fix or replace the bent pedal and rear basket and swap out the front Bafang wheel. I would like to build a 700c wheel, if possible, from the bent one after I take it apart. Not sure if there is a way to convert a front wheel to a rear with a cassette. The Giant Roam has the front e bikeling motor but would love a rear motor as well and a single throttle like the 26" Diamondback Outlook with the dual Bafangs.

The biggest issue besides a new cover with the cassette is the short axle on the Bafang motors. I would need an extra inch or so on each side for it to even fit in the rear. That brings me to my question. Are there axle extensions for hub motors?

I will post some pictures later before and after repairs. The rear chain drive is intact with no noticeable damage. Thanks for posting.

Curtis out.

10/2/22 - 2:06 PM.

Finally getting around to testing and repairs. First thing was the LTOs. Checked each cell with meter and all good. The crash was an excellent way to check the durability of my LTO battery build.

The two 8S are in series hooked to the 43.8V charger. 43.8 / 16 = 2.73V. 2.8V is recommended charging for LTO so works nice. 10.8 / 4 = 2.7V. That is the Lipo charger on 3S - LIFEPO4 setting. I could charge all three in parallel with my 54.6V - 15 amp - 900W - 15S charger but prefer doing it that way at home. For long trips I will bring the big charger though and charge 20S - LTO with the 15S lion charger. 54.6 / 20 = 2.73V.

As soon as they are charged my first test will be the 1,800W brushless motor on the way to storage. It was really hot dragging the Currie about 1/2 mile home the other night. I really hope no damage was done as it was over $100 for that. Not sure but > $100 < $150.

If it makes it then will grab the other Bafang wheel and a knobby tire and attempt to repair the Currie. I might go to WallMart and get a pre paid card and order those headway cells as my disability check will be in tomorrow and think I have enough in there for 15 cells. < 15 pounds fully assembled for 50V fully charged sounds much better than hauling 45+ pounds of LTO for 50V.

Thanks, and if anyone knows a good link for used Bafang hub motor parts please let me know. I will need to test the motor somehow and then if it is still in good working order rebuild it with a new cover for a rear cassette and axle extensions.

If the motor is damaged internally, I will rebuild it first. It is what I do. I build, rebuild and repair e bikes and all types of motors. I fixed brush chain drives as well as a direct drive hub but never a brushless chain or a geared hub.

My biggest issue is finding parts. It is why I still have not converted a chain to belt drive. Not because I don't want to. I like this forum much better than endlesssphere as all I got was negative feedback there, ridicule and criticism. I felt like a door mat. When I finally stuck up for myself, I got permanently banned. I had a few friends there that followed me, but a lot of cyber bullies and I don't make a good victim for any kind of bullying.


Curtis out.


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hope to get it done this week.

Right pedal is really bent but will bolt on something to put my foot on. :LOL:

Stingray chopper is out in the country at my friend's house waiting on a weld job. Fall / winter project. The guy is my spouse's son. The same guy I bought the wire welder from and will teach me how to weld on a Sunday he is off work. I just need wire. With the extra wide rear 20" wheel I will be able to use the 72T - 8mm sprocket and a 11T motor sprocket for 43.74 mph gearing. Perfect for the 3,000W four horsepower motor and 70 amp controller. :D

I also want to build the 20" Diamondback Viper with the 1,000W - 36V chain drive @ 50V - LTO for 33 mph - 4,000 rpm - 1,388W.
The 8 mm - 72T wheel sprocket and a 10T motor sprocket that bolts to a 16T freewheel or a freewheel clutch will do the trick.

I also need to order those used 8 Ah Headway cells from battery hookup as tired of hauling 45+ pounds of LTO for < 10-mile round trips.


Curtis out.

10/6/22 - 5:55 PM.

I did get a ride to storage and got the spare Bafang wheel and swapped it out. There seems like no damage to the rear or chain drive. I might need a different pedal crank and rear basket set up. I will need extensive brake work and handlebar grips. Looks like the controllers and wiring are intact as well.

I recovered both LED lights on the grass on the side of the road. I hit the curb as failed to turn the corner. That was obvious when I found the lights. It was three days later so lucky nobody else found them. There was a battery bracket all twisted up as well but all batteries are ok.

I put the Currie in storage for the winter. I brought home the 20" Diamondback Viper for my next project. The 20" ebike with the 1,800W brushless motor will be my main ride and building the Viper as a spare with the 36V - 1,000W brush motor.

The plan is to be able to run it at 24V or 36V. I have two 22 Ah - 12V - SLAs which would give me 666W at 24V. 2,000 rpm. 16 mph @ 24V and 24 mph @ 36V. NOT what I want for a main daily rider but suitable as a spare e bike in case the other bike gets a flat tire or something. Also great for short trips where I do not want to haul 45 + pounds of LTO around.

Not sure if I am ordering the Headway batteries this month. I had to buy furniture for my apartment as the second air mattress failed and did not want to sleep on the floor. I also bought me a recliner and nice rocking chair for my spouse, so money is tight this month. I have all the parts needed to build the Diamondback Viper.

I even got a spare 20" BMX bike for $12 at the Goodwill store where I got the recliner. It is an AMBUSH. One of the cheaper Wall-Mart kids bikes. The rear wheel spins perfect. I may need to swap out the very rusty freewheel. It also has working front and rear brakes and will be using the handlebars.

If I run 48V I would get close to 33 mph gearing but won't do it with #25 chain. I would need to upgrade to 8 mm chain and sprockets. If I ever get new spokes for the 20" 800W hub motor, I could run that on the front of either one of the 20" bikes with rear chain drives. :D I even have two controllers for that motor so could just swap the motor for the front wheel on either bike until I get a second 20" hub motor.


Curtis out.


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I ordered a 62T - 8mm wheel sprocket and a 13T motor sprocket.

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That will run 20V - LTO. 8S. 8 * 2.5V = 20 working volts. Weight < 16 pounds. I was going to run dual motors on the 20" Diamondback. I changed my mind and looking at the 20" BMX - Ambush bike. A front chain drive for up to 10-mile round trips. 19 mph @ 20V and close to 23 mph @ 24V respectively. 20V = 444W and 24V = 533W. That is with the 36V - 800W motor.

Since I have two 22 Ah - SLA batteries I can sell the e bike for a modest $250. I just need to raise the seat for taller riders. I will make sure it has at least one working brake. Maybe two. If it sells my plan is to repeat the build as many times as possible and make some $$$$$.

I am still building the Diamondback Viper but not interested in selling it. That will get the 36V - 1,000W chain on the rear with 15S - LIFEPO4 - 8 Ah Headway batteries and 33 mph gearing > 1,300W. I will use the $$$ from the sale to finance the Viper project. Hopefully I can build and sell more 20" e bikes for a modest profit. The plan is < $150 parts and a non-negotiable $250 price for $100 profit.


Curtis out.

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I was hoping to get more posts here.

Has anyone here ever had this motor or know someone who has? The rpm is 2,600@24V. Gearing is 20.85 @ 20V. 25.03 @ 24V and 31.29 @ 30V.

That is with the same 10T motor and 62T wheel sprocket. 8mm chain. 8S - LTO = 15 pounds, 20V. If I run the 4S in series, I get 12S - 30V and approx. 23 pounds battery weight. 20V = 750W. 24V = 900W and 30V = 1,125W. Two motors front and rear would = 2,250W @ 30V. 40.67 mph gearing with two 62T wheel and 13T motor sprockets.

40 mph with 23 pounds of LTO. Sounds like a great idea to me.


Curtis out.

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I basically invented that years ago and have had motors on several 20" and a 26" - 27.5" frame. The dual suspension had that set up before I put a Bafang on it so I could use the motor for another build. These chain drives are typically > 2,500 rpm and usually 3,000 rpm so work better with 20" wheels for gearing. I am trading or selling that. Gearing is just under 15 mph. It is a starter bike for a kid or teen. Just needs front brakes before I let it go. 36V 2,750 rpm - 800W motor @ 24V - 555W and 2,000 rpm with a 11T and 89T - #25 sprocket. The upgrade is a throttle for the 24V - 30-amp 350 Razor scooter controller. It is a 4-wire twist grip.

The 3,000 rpm 1,000W 36V brush Unite motor that was on the 27.5" dual suspension will go on the front of my 20" Diamondback Viper. 666W at 20V-555W- 1,666 rpm with 13T motor and 62T wheel sprocket. 20.85 mph.

The upgrade is the same motor on the back with 62T wheel also but swap both motor sprockets for 10T and gearing is > 38 mph @ 48V - 4,000 rpm.

Not in a great rush to upgrade a single motor. The main purpose for it is I can run it with 8S - LTO. Only about 16 pounds in the bag. Way better than 32 or 40 pounds for 16S or 20S. 24S is close to 50 pounds. Ridiculous. Looking at some waterproofing and is light enough to put on a bus rack with the battery mounted. I cannot lift an e bike with 16 or 20S LTO. Two motors would add considerable weight as well not even counting 12 more LTOs.

I have two 6S - Lipo chargers so charging an 8S - LTO is LIFE setting 6S. 3.65 * 6 = 21.9 / 8 = 2.73V. Perfect charging voltage for 8S-LTO.
Hope someone can post soon.


Curtis out.


Still working on chain drives.

Got a 700c Giant Cypress hybrid frame.

I am only 5 foot 8.

Put 24-inch wheels on it and pedaled great. Pedals did not touch ground.

Interesting thing about the build will be the gearing.

It will be a two speed.

At 20V rpm is 1666 and gearing approx. 18 mph - 555 watts. Not bad at all up a hill with pedal assist.

I will test a decent size hill at 20V - 555W - 1666 rpm.

Then hook a 4S pack in series for 30 volts - 833 watts - 2,500 rpm.

Test same hill.

Objective is how hot the motor is. That determines if I will rum 30V all the time or switch to 20V up hills.

A far as the 3,000-watt brushless motor I am looking at the 20-inch BMX Diamondback Viper. I have a 20 inch wheel , 62 tooth 8mm sprock and 62T freewheel sprocket. At 60V gearing will be

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Curtis out