My first hub motor I got sent to me about 8 years ago. Close to 9 now and I still own it. It was a 1,000W front direct drive kit. I ran it with 12S - LiPo for a while and one night when it was dark hit a broken section of road and flipped the e bike. It was about 6 years ago. Maybe 7. I cracked a rib and was sore for almost two months. I did not run it for a while as was building chain drives. Fast forwards to 2020 I moved to Ohio from upstate NY and the rim on that hub motor was bent. Upon further inspection the rim was cracked, and I had a bike shop put it on a new rim.
However, that was not the only problem. The wires were damaged coming out of the axle space. It was shorting out. I took the cover off and re wired it and it worked the several times I ran it about a year. I hooked up 20S - LTO about a year ago and it stopped running after about a mile. I used telephone wire for the sensor wires and the wire I used for the phase was not very thick compared to what was in the motor. I took wire from the stock 1,000W controller for the phase wires and cut off the sensor wires and ordered a 1,000W - 38 amp - 60V - Green time sensor less controller.
I ran a 20 Ah - 1,200W - 30 amp - 13S - 7P factory lion pack and was disgusted with the performance. Maybe 25 mph with a full charge. I remember seeing 28 mph with the 12S - LiPos. I am now attempting to hook up 20S - LTOs which sport about 50V WORKING voltage and do have 4 more for a solid 60V. I am confused on the specifications of the sensor less controller I am using. 1,000W - 38 amps - 60V. It makes absolutely no sense.
50V * 38 amps = 1,900W. 60 * 38 = 2,280W. I do not want to burn out the 48V motor using 60V but would like 50V and to go closer to 30 mph than 25. I have a power meter I am hooking up to see how many amps it will pull. I really do not want to upgrade to 1,500W but will if I have to. It is why I question the 1,000W rating.
I also have an e bikeling 500W geared hub motor on the front of a Giant Roam with all 21 pedal gears in the rear. I also bought 6 - 350W Bafang - geared hub motors. I have two on a vintage 90s DimondBack Outlook. With just the motors and no battery it weigh only 40 pounds putting the rear tire on a bathroom scale.
I also put one on the front of the 26" dual suspension that has the 48V direct drive on the back. I am thinking about removing the 36V front motor though as 50V - LTO weighs like 35 pounds and 60V like 43 pounds or more. I do not wish to add 12 pounds of LIFEPO4 batteries to that to run a second 36V motor. It would be great if I could run both motors with 50V - LTO but not sure how the 36V Bafang and controller would hold up? That would be my second question.
I watched this video so have one person's opinion but like to go with more opinions based on experience.
I checked the controller I am using for the 350W Bafang and is a 36 - 48V - 18-amp controller. The only possible weak link is the motor then???
I have had the direct drive apart several times as well as several brush chain drives and soldered the inside wires and terminals. I never took apart a geared hub or brushless chain drive, however. I know e bay has parts to rebuild those Bafangs. I would love to run at 50V if possible but not if it will kill the motor/controller. I know they make steel gears to replace plastic but make a lot more noise. I really want to learn how to rebuild hub motors but not sure if I would want to rewind one. That would be very tedious.
I have a spare 800W hub controller and 1,000W that are 48V but do not see a good source for new or used hub motors not sold as a kit. Battery Clearinghouse HAD a lot of 350W Bafangs but are all sold out. When they ran out of the motor AND wheel for $45 each, they sold just the motor for $23 until they ran out.
My third question is does anyone know a good NEW source for used hub motors and can a 36V motor be modified to run at 50V with no damage?
Thanks, and please let me know.
Curtis out.
However, that was not the only problem. The wires were damaged coming out of the axle space. It was shorting out. I took the cover off and re wired it and it worked the several times I ran it about a year. I hooked up 20S - LTO about a year ago and it stopped running after about a mile. I used telephone wire for the sensor wires and the wire I used for the phase was not very thick compared to what was in the motor. I took wire from the stock 1,000W controller for the phase wires and cut off the sensor wires and ordered a 1,000W - 38 amp - 60V - Green time sensor less controller.
I ran a 20 Ah - 1,200W - 30 amp - 13S - 7P factory lion pack and was disgusted with the performance. Maybe 25 mph with a full charge. I remember seeing 28 mph with the 12S - LiPos. I am now attempting to hook up 20S - LTOs which sport about 50V WORKING voltage and do have 4 more for a solid 60V. I am confused on the specifications of the sensor less controller I am using. 1,000W - 38 amps - 60V. It makes absolutely no sense.
50V * 38 amps = 1,900W. 60 * 38 = 2,280W. I do not want to burn out the 48V motor using 60V but would like 50V and to go closer to 30 mph than 25. I have a power meter I am hooking up to see how many amps it will pull. I really do not want to upgrade to 1,500W but will if I have to. It is why I question the 1,000W rating.
I also have an e bikeling 500W geared hub motor on the front of a Giant Roam with all 21 pedal gears in the rear. I also bought 6 - 350W Bafang - geared hub motors. I have two on a vintage 90s DimondBack Outlook. With just the motors and no battery it weigh only 40 pounds putting the rear tire on a bathroom scale.
I also put one on the front of the 26" dual suspension that has the 48V direct drive on the back. I am thinking about removing the 36V front motor though as 50V - LTO weighs like 35 pounds and 60V like 43 pounds or more. I do not wish to add 12 pounds of LIFEPO4 batteries to that to run a second 36V motor. It would be great if I could run both motors with 50V - LTO but not sure how the 36V Bafang and controller would hold up? That would be my second question.
I watched this video so have one person's opinion but like to go with more opinions based on experience.
I checked the controller I am using for the 350W Bafang and is a 36 - 48V - 18-amp controller. The only possible weak link is the motor then???
I have had the direct drive apart several times as well as several brush chain drives and soldered the inside wires and terminals. I never took apart a geared hub or brushless chain drive, however. I know e bay has parts to rebuild those Bafangs. I would love to run at 50V if possible but not if it will kill the motor/controller. I know they make steel gears to replace plastic but make a lot more noise. I really want to learn how to rebuild hub motors but not sure if I would want to rewind one. That would be very tedious.
I have a spare 800W hub controller and 1,000W that are 48V but do not see a good source for new or used hub motors not sold as a kit. Battery Clearinghouse HAD a lot of 350W Bafangs but are all sold out. When they ran out of the motor AND wheel for $45 each, they sold just the motor for $23 until they ran out.
My third question is does anyone know a good NEW source for used hub motors and can a 36V motor be modified to run at 50V with no damage?
Thanks, and please let me know.
Curtis out.
