1,800W & 3,000W brushless motors with 20S to 24S - 18 ah LTOs and brush chain drives.
- Thread starter curtis
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The bike with the front motor pictured above on my oct 21 post did in fact work. I had the wheel trued and cost $20 at the bike shop but did not help much. Kind of a mystery as when I spun the freewheel with the 89T sprocket attached it looked straight and the wheel was trued but when both spun together, I still got a noticeable wobble. The bike shop said it could be the threads on the freewheel and could add a washer or two to make the wobble not as bad. I did neither and with the chain nice and tight I test drove it. I did not need a GPS speedometer to know it was
Since it is for a 9-year-old boy with adult supervision that speed is about perfect for a beginner. His stepdad will be riding with him.
I also built an e bike for the stepdad which is a 500W rear 36V ebikeling ebike awhile back which goes about 20 mph. It has pedal as well.
Moving on I will be trying something a little different for myself. A Giant Cypress Hybrid 700c frame with 24" wheels. Two reasons.
1.) Seat height. I am 5 foot 8 inches and like to have the seat high enough so I can pedal at an angle that is not even close to 45 degrees as my bad knee was the main reason for wanting an e bike in the first place back in 2014. My right knee is so bad they said physical therapy was not an option. Total knee replacement is required. That is something I never want.
I was very happy when I installed a 24" rear wheel with cassette and was able to get on the bike and pedal around the yard at storage a few days ago. With 700C wheels I would have had problems just getting on it with the seat high enough for pedal.
2.) 20V - 16 pounds of battery, 555W and 21 mph gearing. A big compromise but exactly what I need to ride the bus as won't need to haul 32 or 40 pounds of LTOs around for 40 or 50V. Most of the places I need to go the bus can get me as close as 2 or 3 miles so can ride up to 10 miles easily with 20V - 8S - 18 ah - LTO. Gearing will be on my next post below with a preview of the front suspension fork Unite motor mount I will be attempting.
Since it is for a 9-year-old boy with adult supervision that speed is about perfect for a beginner. His stepdad will be riding with him.
I also built an e bike for the stepdad which is a 500W rear 36V ebikeling ebike awhile back which goes about 20 mph. It has pedal as well.
Moving on I will be trying something a little different for myself. A Giant Cypress Hybrid 700c frame with 24" wheels. Two reasons.
1.) Seat height. I am 5 foot 8 inches and like to have the seat high enough so I can pedal at an angle that is not even close to 45 degrees as my bad knee was the main reason for wanting an e bike in the first place back in 2014. My right knee is so bad they said physical therapy was not an option. Total knee replacement is required. That is something I never want.
I was very happy when I installed a 24" rear wheel with cassette and was able to get on the bike and pedal around the yard at storage a few days ago. With 700C wheels I would have had problems just getting on it with the seat high enough for pedal.
2.) 20V - 16 pounds of battery, 555W and 21 mph gearing. A big compromise but exactly what I need to ride the bus as won't need to haul 32 or 40 pounds of LTOs around for 40 or 50V. Most of the places I need to go the bus can get me as close as 2 or 3 miles so can ride up to 10 miles easily with 20V - 8S - 18 ah - LTO. Gearing will be on my next post below with a preview of the front suspension fork Unite motor mount I will be attempting.
1,000W / 36 * 20 = 555W. It is geared a little high for hills but will have all working pedal gears and might have to walk a little up the steep hills, but that is ok as I might lose a pound. lol.
This will be challenging to say the least as am trying to keep the suspension fork fully functionable. Since it is a 24" wheel, I will need to grind away the V brake posts and use flat steel bars across the brake bracket about two inches below the center hole for a caliper brake. The center hole will be used as well as two holes on either side to support a steel bracket bolted to the wood. steel hose clamps will secure the PT 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 to the forks below. I am thinking about 4 on each side.
It might or might not work. We will see. I might have to go in front but prefer not to. If I pull this off I will be a happy camper and the ebike will NOT be for sale. I have all the parts except for the hose clamps and will need more wood and a flat piece of steel. Maybe some nuts and bolts. I will also be building a battery bracket for the 8S - LTO pack low on the bottom bar of the triangle. Probably a rear cargo rack and basket.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
looks like the same exact motor to me. Price is not the same though. The 1,000W rated motor is at least $20 cheaper.
The last build, the front chain drive is finished. It runs good and will have a video soon. I am working on a 700C hybrid bike with 24" wheels. It also has a variable 10 to 50V 40-amp brush controller and will start out with 21 mph gearing and 555W@20V-LTO.
I also just ordered 20 of those which came to $109 and will take care of all my 48V needs. I won't have to haul around 40 pounds of LTOs to run 50V anymore. Doing the math, 15 will weigh just under 12 pounds, so about 13 pounds with the series connecters and enclosure. I will be building three 5S packs each with a balance cable for quick balancing with that meter. I own two and will buy a third so I can balance all three at the same time. The other 5 will be for 20S 70 - 66V for the 3-kilowatt brushless motor.
Those headway cells are only 8 Ah but can charge quickly with my 54.6V - 15-amp 900W charger. Looking ahead I noticed while at storage the 26" wheel I tried several times to hook up a front chain drive and failed. I noticed the bearings were shot so why it did not work before. I settled with a Bafang up front and that ebike sports a 1,000W direct drive in the back with a sensor less Greentime 1,000W controller. I will probably get a 1,000W 48V brush Unite motor for the front and use the Bafang for a spare.
I still have my eye on those 24V 900/1,000W motors as 2,600 rpm is much easier to gear on larger wheels than 3,000 and 4,000 rpm motors. Also, if I go with 30V - LTO I can push 1,125W at 30V if it is 900W. I could even run at 10S - LIFEPO4 for 35 - 33V for even more if I want to.
Still undecided about the 3,000W brushless motor. I got the Stingray chopper frame but needs a ton of parts. The vintage 26" Haro V3 only needs brakes and handlebars and a star nut for the front forks. Not sure if the Haro can stand up to a 4-horsepower motor though. If those Headway cells are as good as they say, fully charged. 20 * 3.5V = 70V. 3.3V * 20 = 66V running voltage.
3,000 / 60 * 66 = 3,300W. Should be good for about 46 mph gearing without sacrificing a lot of low-end torque and hill climbing ability. They also make cooling fins for those motors for around $45.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
I was going to do another front motor, but the forks were not wide enough. I needed at least an inch more. The rear will work though.
The 1,800W brushless motor still runs great and the chain drive on the back of the Currie ran great also before the wreck.
I will be testing it as soon as I get the DC breaker and front brake working. Probably tomorrow. If it works that is four chain drives finished since I started this post.
I ordered the 8-tooth motor sprocket for the 30 or 40V upgrade but if it runs good like it is I won't need to upgrade. I should know soon.
Not sure if thumbnail will be as large as full image if someone clicks on it. I don't want to waste space on my posts as have a lot of photos with all my builds. I will be posting videos as well but do that on youtube and post the link.
Please let me know. I hope someone will post.
Than
The 1,800W brushless motor still runs great and the chain drive on the back of the Currie ran great also before the wreck.
I will be testing it as soon as I get the DC breaker and front brake working. Probably tomorrow. If it works that is four chain drives finished since I started this post.
I ordered the 8-tooth motor sprocket for the 30 or 40V upgrade but if it runs good like it is I won't need to upgrade. I should know soon.
Not sure if thumbnail will be as large as full image if someone clicks on it. I don't want to waste space on my posts as have a lot of photos with all my builds. I will be posting videos as well but do that on youtube and post the link.
Please let me know. I hope someone will post.
Than
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I see your posts curtis mate.
You ok?
Yes. Thank you. Let me know if you can see these pictures. I am about to test the 15S - 8Ah LIFEPO4 pack soon after I get it together. Since I ordered 20 cells I have 5 left over. My plan is to order 7 more on the first of December for 12S - 36V applications.
I am in no rush to build the 3,000W brushless motor so might just order 20 more in January instead of building a 60V - 20S pack now as even though I can run Bafang motors at 48V I think they will last longer at 36V.
My logic behind that is hooking smaller packs in series for different voltages is a greater risk for mistakes. Also possible uneven discharge rates. I am placing 80 amp fuses on the negative side of each pack. One for the 15S , one for the 12S and one for the 20S I will build. That gives double protection as the DC circuit breakers are on the positive side.
The 30V bike is running with 12S - LTO. I need to get my cameras up and running with SD cards for shooting video.
Thanks. Curtis out.
I am in no rush to build the 3,000W brushless motor so might just order 20 more in January instead of building a 60V - 20S pack now as even though I can run Bafang motors at 48V I think they will last longer at 36V.
My logic behind that is hooking smaller packs in series for different voltages is a greater risk for mistakes. Also possible uneven discharge rates. I am placing 80 amp fuses on the negative side of each pack. One for the 15S , one for the 12S and one for the 20S I will build. That gives double protection as the DC circuit breakers are on the positive side.
The 30V bike is running with 12S - LTO. I need to get my cameras up and running with SD cards for shooting video.
Thanks. Curtis out.
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copy copy. Lookin good curtis 
Since I am using external balancers to balance and hooking three 5S balance plugs up to a 15S pack I am not sure if I can use two or three balancers at the same time ???
I might have to only balance 5 cells at a time as the series connection from the positive of the first five cells to the negative of the second five will be connected to both balancers.
The same goes for the series connection from positive pack 2 to negative pack 3. I have two balancers so wanted to order one more balancer to balance all 15 cells at once. It looks like that could be a problem. I guess I could balance the first 5 and the last 5 with two balancers and after they are balanced then balance the middle 5 cells ??? Can I balance with three balancers or would it be a disaster ?????
Please let me know.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
I might have to only balance 5 cells at a time as the series connection from the positive of the first five cells to the negative of the second five will be connected to both balancers.
The same goes for the series connection from positive pack 2 to negative pack 3. I have two balancers so wanted to order one more balancer to balance all 15 cells at once. It looks like that could be a problem. I guess I could balance the first 5 and the last 5 with two balancers and after they are balanced then balance the middle 5 cells ??? Can I balance with three balancers or would it be a disaster ?????
Please let me know.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
I was just thinking the LTO packs each have an active balancer. I ran two 8S - LTO packs in series with a 4S pack. Each with its own active balancer which hooks up just like an external balancer and had no problems. Since I have a lot of 6S balance cables and extensions I chose not to order a BMS or active balancers for the 15S - LIFEPO4.
The screenshot shows the post and it changed when I posted this. Not sure what is going on ?
Thanks.
Curtis out.
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I have been balancing and charging. I thought I could save money not getting the ring terminals for the balance wires. After a couple broken wires tightening the bolts I realize I will need to get those tonight.
The last 5 cells are charging now on the LiPo charger. I did use bullets for the series connections between each 5S pack. That way when I need to run 66V to the 3 kilowatt brushless motor All I will need to do is add on and all series connections will be the same. I have had trouble in the past with packs in series discharging at different rates due to a difference in resistance.
Most people would use a BMS or active balancers but I have a lot of balance wires and two 6S - LiPo chargers however need to be able to use my portable 54.6V - 15 amp charger for 15S and my 43,8V 10 amp charger for 12S LIFE. That is why all the cells need to be balanced before building the 15S and 12S packs.
I plan on ordering 7 more cells as soon as funds are available so I can build two 6S packs for 36V. Also I will be able to add one of the 6S packs to the 15S for 21S. 3.3 * 21 = 69.3V. 3,000W / 60 = 50 * 69.3 = 3,465W.
The rpm will increase from 4,800 to 5,554 but with a 10T motor and 72T wheel sprocket gearing will be 45.96 mph with a 20 inch wheel. A 11T motor sprocket would gear it for 50 mph but am thinking I would need closer to 4,000W for 50 mph as it would overheat going up a steep hill.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
.
The last 5 cells are charging now on the LiPo charger. I did use bullets for the series connections between each 5S pack. That way when I need to run 66V to the 3 kilowatt brushless motor All I will need to do is add on and all series connections will be the same. I have had trouble in the past with packs in series discharging at different rates due to a difference in resistance.
Most people would use a BMS or active balancers but I have a lot of balance wires and two 6S - LiPo chargers however need to be able to use my portable 54.6V - 15 amp charger for 15S and my 43,8V 10 amp charger for 12S LIFE. That is why all the cells need to be balanced before building the 15S and 12S packs.
I plan on ordering 7 more cells as soon as funds are available so I can build two 6S packs for 36V. Also I will be able to add one of the 6S packs to the 15S for 21S. 3.3 * 21 = 69.3V. 3,000W / 60 = 50 * 69.3 = 3,465W.
The rpm will increase from 4,800 to 5,554 but with a 10T motor and 72T wheel sprocket gearing will be 45.96 mph with a 20 inch wheel. A 11T motor sprocket would gear it for 50 mph but am thinking I would need closer to 4,000W for 50 mph as it would overheat going up a steep hill.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
.
First run for the new LIFE pack will be tomorrow with the 1,800W - 48V brushless motor and the 20" e bike. It would have been easier to just solder the balance wires to the series connecters instead of using ring terminals.
The 22 gauge balance wires broke when I wrapped them around the terminals and tightened the series connecters. I also broke a couple with the ring terminals as the terminals were not really big enough and the bolts were most difficult to get in and tighten down. It took me all night until early morning to get it done. They are fully charged via the 15 amp 54.6V charger. Resting voltage is 52V about 19 hours later.
I am thinking about riding it to storage and bringing back the Currie ,my first e bike and the one I wrecked with a few weeks back. I just need to hook up the front brake. Hopefully I can find a replacement pedal crank or will just be a no pedal deal. It has the gear reduction chain drive in the rear and Bafang up front.
I doubt I will be adding the other 5 cells for 66V. It will stay a 15S pack. No more cells will fit in the container so just running it at 15S and will build a 12S and 20S pack later with different containers as long as this pack runs well. Storage is about 3.4 miles so 6.8 miles there and back. Probably 7.2 to 7.5 miles as I do not stay on the direct route due to high traffic.
If they make it back without tripping the LVC on my 48V brush controller they will pass the test. A really good reason to leave the 36V Bafang hub on the front is the controller is a 36 to 48V controller so should get me home if the pack drops below 40V. 40 / 15 = 2.66V. Cutoff discharge voltage is 2V for those Headway cells but do not plan on running them that low.
I rode the newest build tonight to Walmart. It has the 36V brush 1,000W Unite motor in the back. It is ok for short Walmart trips or around town where there are no big or moderate hills , just gradual incline , flat and decline. My first Unite brush motor was the 48V 1,000W. Both are rated at 3,000 rpms. The 48V one I had I ran at 36V - 750W for almost two years on the Currie after I burned up the 450W stock 24V motor up a steep hill at 36V.
I doubt I will ever buy another 36V - 1,000W bruh motor. I think it is a big lie. I do not see it pushing anywhere near 1,000W. rpm at 30V = 2,500 and power is 1,000 / 36 = 27.7 * 30 = 833W. It is on a 24" wheel. In fact I doubt it will go 20 mph or even keep up with a 350W Bafang hub motor at 36V.
The 48V motor also 1,000W was pushing 750W at 36V and rpm was 3,000 / 48 = 62.5 * 36 = 2,250 and was on a larger 26" wheel.
The 48V motor had way better acceleration and went up moderate hills no problem. I think top speed was around 24 mph. The 36V motor has piss poor acceleration and probably would not make it up the same hills the 48V motor did.
My guess is the 36V - 1,000W Unite motor is a 24V - 500W - 2,500 rpm motor. If I am right it would be turning 3,125 rpm at 30V and 750W. Gearing ; 29.85 mph at 750W instead of 23.88 mph - 833W - 2,500 rpm.
I owned a 24V brush 500W Unite motor and ran it on the front of a 20" bike at 36V and 750W. It ran a little better with the 20" wheel. It was awhile ago so not sure what sprocket was on the wheel. 11T motor probably.
I hate false advertising. It is just wrong that sellers do this and is like stealing. I need a way to prove it though. I would appreciate any feedback on the subject.
Has anyone here had any of the brush Unite motors I mentioned ??? I am thinking for my next chain drive I will get two of the 24V Currie 900W motors. At 30V - LTO each motor will push 1,125W and 2,250 total for close to 40 mph gearing. I would like 36 to 37 mph. < 38 mph for moderate hills. Two motors and one chain in the rear with the LTOs towards the front for good weight distribution. I am not sure when though.
The reason is 30V - LTO - 12 cells weigh < 25 pounds vs > 32 pounds for 16S - 40V and about 40 pounds for 20S - 50V. > 45 pounds for all 24 LTOs - 60V.
I spent > $600 for 24 LTOs. So far only the 20" BMX with the 1,800W brushless motor rides good with = or > 40 pounds of LTO. My 26" or larger e bikes don't handle as well as top heavy. Why I got a lighter LIFEPO4 pack now.
Thanks.
Curtis. Out.
The 22 gauge balance wires broke when I wrapped them around the terminals and tightened the series connecters. I also broke a couple with the ring terminals as the terminals were not really big enough and the bolts were most difficult to get in and tighten down. It took me all night until early morning to get it done. They are fully charged via the 15 amp 54.6V charger. Resting voltage is 52V about 19 hours later.
I am thinking about riding it to storage and bringing back the Currie ,my first e bike and the one I wrecked with a few weeks back. I just need to hook up the front brake. Hopefully I can find a replacement pedal crank or will just be a no pedal deal. It has the gear reduction chain drive in the rear and Bafang up front.
I doubt I will be adding the other 5 cells for 66V. It will stay a 15S pack. No more cells will fit in the container so just running it at 15S and will build a 12S and 20S pack later with different containers as long as this pack runs well. Storage is about 3.4 miles so 6.8 miles there and back. Probably 7.2 to 7.5 miles as I do not stay on the direct route due to high traffic.
If they make it back without tripping the LVC on my 48V brush controller they will pass the test. A really good reason to leave the 36V Bafang hub on the front is the controller is a 36 to 48V controller so should get me home if the pack drops below 40V. 40 / 15 = 2.66V. Cutoff discharge voltage is 2V for those Headway cells but do not plan on running them that low.
I rode the newest build tonight to Walmart. It has the 36V brush 1,000W Unite motor in the back. It is ok for short Walmart trips or around town where there are no big or moderate hills , just gradual incline , flat and decline. My first Unite brush motor was the 48V 1,000W. Both are rated at 3,000 rpms. The 48V one I had I ran at 36V - 750W for almost two years on the Currie after I burned up the 450W stock 24V motor up a steep hill at 36V.
I doubt I will ever buy another 36V - 1,000W bruh motor. I think it is a big lie. I do not see it pushing anywhere near 1,000W. rpm at 30V = 2,500 and power is 1,000 / 36 = 27.7 * 30 = 833W. It is on a 24" wheel. In fact I doubt it will go 20 mph or even keep up with a 350W Bafang hub motor at 36V.
The 48V motor also 1,000W was pushing 750W at 36V and rpm was 3,000 / 48 = 62.5 * 36 = 2,250 and was on a larger 26" wheel.
The 48V motor had way better acceleration and went up moderate hills no problem. I think top speed was around 24 mph. The 36V motor has piss poor acceleration and probably would not make it up the same hills the 48V motor did.
My guess is the 36V - 1,000W Unite motor is a 24V - 500W - 2,500 rpm motor. If I am right it would be turning 3,125 rpm at 30V and 750W. Gearing ; 29.85 mph at 750W instead of 23.88 mph - 833W - 2,500 rpm.
I owned a 24V brush 500W Unite motor and ran it on the front of a 20" bike at 36V and 750W. It ran a little better with the 20" wheel. It was awhile ago so not sure what sprocket was on the wheel. 11T motor probably.
I hate false advertising. It is just wrong that sellers do this and is like stealing. I need a way to prove it though. I would appreciate any feedback on the subject.
Has anyone here had any of the brush Unite motors I mentioned ??? I am thinking for my next chain drive I will get two of the 24V Currie 900W motors. At 30V - LTO each motor will push 1,125W and 2,250 total for close to 40 mph gearing. I would like 36 to 37 mph. < 38 mph for moderate hills. Two motors and one chain in the rear with the LTOs towards the front for good weight distribution. I am not sure when though.
The reason is 30V - LTO - 12 cells weigh < 25 pounds vs > 32 pounds for 16S - 40V and about 40 pounds for 20S - 50V. > 45 pounds for all 24 LTOs - 60V.
I spent > $600 for 24 LTOs. So far only the 20" BMX with the 1,800W brushless motor rides good with = or > 40 pounds of LTO. My 26" or larger e bikes don't handle as well as top heavy. Why I got a lighter LIFEPO4 pack now.
Thanks.
Curtis. Out.
Beware. Battery hookup will rob you. They are not honest. They DID NOT check those cells for capacity. The pack died at about 4 miles. I had to push that heavy e bike about 3 miles. When I got home one of the cells was almost 0V. About half were < 2V and the rest were > 3V some 3.2 and 3.3V. They are a mixed bag of worthless cells with a few good ones.
I will need to test capacity on all the cells now and will be sending back the bad cells hoping they will honor their agreement. Hopefully with the other five I will be able to at least build a 12S pack. I will need a good active balancer as well and did not plan on spending the $$$ on that. What a mess.
Thanks.
LC. out.
I will need to test capacity on all the cells now and will be sending back the bad cells hoping they will honor their agreement. Hopefully with the other five I will be able to at least build a 12S pack. I will need a good active balancer as well and did not plan on spending the $$$ on that. What a mess.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Still testing the garbage Battery Hookup sent me. They admitted thru e mail they DID NOT test any of the cells for capacity, just voltage. They said they would replace the bad cells. 6 for sure so far. However am thinking it could be a waste of time as if they wont test the replacements I could get the same garbage. Also how much will it cost to send the bad cells back.
Anyway moving on I have made some decisions on what I will be doing to improve the e bikes I have. Instead of hooking up the 20" Diamondback Viper with the 3 kilowatt chain drive, I will be removing the 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm chain drive that I suspect is NOT a 1,000W motor to the 20" Diamondback.
Gearing will improve as shown in the picture below. The 700Cc ebike needs the 26" wheels as the 24" wheels make the pedal hit the ground when turning. Close to 20 mph gearing for the gear reduction chain at 36V is great as can put the 26" Bafang hub that is currently on the Currie which is also 20 mph gearing and can run a single thumb throttle for both the brush and brushless controllers.
It just makes a lot of sense for the Currie to get the 3 kilowatt brushless motor as a heavy duty battle tested frame. lol. With 24" wheels gearing will be perfect as 3,000W / 60V = 50 * 50V = 2,500W.
The Currie wont need the front Bafang and neither will the 26" dual suspension so will have two spare Bafangs for a future build. Possibly the Haro V3. I can hook it up with dual Bafangs just like the 26" Diamondback Outlook. Counting the 20" Turbo with the 800W direct drive that needs 5 spokes I will own
1.) 1800W brushless 20" bike.
48V - 32+ mph
2.) 20" Diamondback Viper - 1,000W chain - 36V, 23+ mph
3.) Easy Street - 700cc w 26" wheels 750W chain and Bafang. 36V, 20 mph
4.) The Currie w 24" wheels, 3 kilowatt motor. 48 or 60V - 40+ mph
5.)The 26" Dual suspension. 26" wheels, 1,000 DD and 1,000W 48V brush chain drive.could 48 or 60V 28 to 32+ mph
6.) The Haro V3 with dual- 26" Bafangs. 36 0r 48V. 20 to 26+ mph
7.) The 26" Diamondback Viper-dual 26" Bafangs, 36 or 48V. 20 to 26+ mph
8.) 20" Turbo with 800W DD and possible 900W 24V Currie chain drive. 24 and 48V. 26 to 28 mph.
Will I want to sell any of them ?
Nope!!!
lol.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
Anyway moving on I have made some decisions on what I will be doing to improve the e bikes I have. Instead of hooking up the 20" Diamondback Viper with the 3 kilowatt chain drive, I will be removing the 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm chain drive that I suspect is NOT a 1,000W motor to the 20" Diamondback.
Gearing will improve as shown in the picture below. The 700Cc ebike needs the 26" wheels as the 24" wheels make the pedal hit the ground when turning. Close to 20 mph gearing for the gear reduction chain at 36V is great as can put the 26" Bafang hub that is currently on the Currie which is also 20 mph gearing and can run a single thumb throttle for both the brush and brushless controllers.
It just makes a lot of sense for the Currie to get the 3 kilowatt brushless motor as a heavy duty battle tested frame. lol. With 24" wheels gearing will be perfect as 3,000W / 60V = 50 * 50V = 2,500W.
The Currie wont need the front Bafang and neither will the 26" dual suspension so will have two spare Bafangs for a future build. Possibly the Haro V3. I can hook it up with dual Bafangs just like the 26" Diamondback Outlook. Counting the 20" Turbo with the 800W direct drive that needs 5 spokes I will own
1.) 1800W brushless 20" bike.
48V - 32+ mph
2.) 20" Diamondback Viper - 1,000W chain - 36V, 23+ mph
3.) Easy Street - 700cc w 26" wheels 750W chain and Bafang. 36V, 20 mph
4.) The Currie w 24" wheels, 3 kilowatt motor. 48 or 60V - 40+ mph
5.)The 26" Dual suspension. 26" wheels, 1,000 DD and 1,000W 48V brush chain drive.could 48 or 60V 28 to 32+ mph
6.) The Haro V3 with dual- 26" Bafangs. 36 0r 48V. 20 to 26+ mph
7.) The 26" Diamondback Viper-dual 26" Bafangs, 36 or 48V. 20 to 26+ mph
8.) 20" Turbo with 800W DD and possible 900W 24V Currie chain drive. 24 and 48V. 26 to 28 mph.
Will I want to sell any of them ?
Nope!!!
lol.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
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Yea. I finally got to run the Headway LFP pack without pushing an e bike 3 miles home like the first run. Was originally 15S - 1P. I used my 12 best cells around 4 - Ah or slightly under to build a 12S - 1P battery. I was skeptical it would even run as when I did a discharge test on each one I was horrified that at 1.6 amp discharge most were discharging at < 2.5V. A few actually dropped below 2V and stopped as cutoff voltage. I had to reset them. Cells are garbage, not even close to the 95% capacity they advertised.
I have a 12S - 1.2 amp active balancer now hooked up. My LiPo chargers do not give a full charge like my dedicated 43.6V LFP charger will. < 1/2 hour and got a green light now after a 3 mile run to Walmart. Last night after topping off the pack it took overnight before no red lights on the active balancer. I see 10 lights now so will probably be another 12 hours at least before it is finished balancing,
I wish I could afford a 5 amp active balancer but more than 3 times the $$$$. Still not sure if I want to order more of those Headway cells. Good for Walmart runs as mostly flat. Not good for long distance. I would guess about 4 miles tops with no big hills. Battery Hookup said they will replace any bad cells. I have 6 cells that are basically worthless < 2 Ah some less than 1 Ah or wont even discharge > 1 amp.
I might build 1 more 12S pack for backup. Not building a 15S pack with those cells. My 15S e bikes are all at least 60 amp as two 1,000W motors , The 1,800W brushless motor and the 3 kilowatt motor. This build is a 750W gear reduction rear and 350W Bafang up front. Note the single throttle. I was happy to see the gear chain drive doing more of the work load than the front Bafang. The Bafang is basically a helper motor for up hills and better traction on soft terrain.
I have the dual Bafang 26" Dimondback Outlook and the Giant Roam with a 500W e bikling front hub motor. I am also building the 20" Diamondback Viper with that 36V - 1,000W brush chain drive. That will be four e bikes that run 36V so worth < $100 for one more Headway pack. Like the saying goes "You will be glad you did" : Especially if I am 3 miles from home or out in the country and the first pack FAILS.
Yea, The wood motor bracket cracked. lol. I am too lazy to cut a new one and reinstall the motor so made it work with an L bracket , two vice grips , a small drill bit and four drywall screws so the wood cant split further. lol. The Bafang up front not only helps up hills and traction but if the rear motor or chain fails I don't have to push it home.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
I have a 12S - 1.2 amp active balancer now hooked up. My LiPo chargers do not give a full charge like my dedicated 43.6V LFP charger will. < 1/2 hour and got a green light now after a 3 mile run to Walmart. Last night after topping off the pack it took overnight before no red lights on the active balancer. I see 10 lights now so will probably be another 12 hours at least before it is finished balancing,
I wish I could afford a 5 amp active balancer but more than 3 times the $$$$. Still not sure if I want to order more of those Headway cells. Good for Walmart runs as mostly flat. Not good for long distance. I would guess about 4 miles tops with no big hills. Battery Hookup said they will replace any bad cells. I have 6 cells that are basically worthless < 2 Ah some less than 1 Ah or wont even discharge > 1 amp.
I might build 1 more 12S pack for backup. Not building a 15S pack with those cells. My 15S e bikes are all at least 60 amp as two 1,000W motors , The 1,800W brushless motor and the 3 kilowatt motor. This build is a 750W gear reduction rear and 350W Bafang up front. Note the single throttle. I was happy to see the gear chain drive doing more of the work load than the front Bafang. The Bafang is basically a helper motor for up hills and better traction on soft terrain.
I have the dual Bafang 26" Dimondback Outlook and the Giant Roam with a 500W e bikling front hub motor. I am also building the 20" Diamondback Viper with that 36V - 1,000W brush chain drive. That will be four e bikes that run 36V so worth < $100 for one more Headway pack. Like the saying goes "You will be glad you did" : Especially if I am 3 miles from home or out in the country and the first pack FAILS.
Yea, The wood motor bracket cracked. lol. I am too lazy to cut a new one and reinstall the motor so made it work with an L bracket , two vice grips , a small drill bit and four drywall screws so the wood cant split further. lol. The Bafang up front not only helps up hills and traction but if the rear motor or chain fails I don't have to push it home.
Thanks.
Curtis out.
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