Brakes Noisy hydraulic brakes on Lectric 3.0

Wireyouup

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I have a new Lectric 3.0 with hydraulic brakes, about 50 miles now. The rear brake squeals very loud, front is fine. So loud it is embarrassing around others so I don't always use it, could be dangerous.
Customer support says it takes 50 to 100 miles to break in, so far it is not getting any better. They say they have no other pads to offer.
Can anyone vouch for the company that this problem will go away? Do you know of a fix?
Otherwise I love the bike.
 
1st Step = adjust the Rear Caliper & Pad Alignment- 5mm hex - no torque wrench required just don't over wrench it

: CLICK HERE ADJUST REAR CALIPER & PADS

2nd Step = this guy has a level head most likely "contamination" which could have happened at the factory - with Rubbing Alcohol to clean that rotor (don't get fancy with harsher chemicals) - pc of 100 grit sand paper to lightlyt smooth the surface of the pads - you won't need to resurface the rotor : CLICK HERE LECTRIC 2.0 REAR BRAKE SQUEAL FIX
 
1st Step = adjust the Rear Caliper & Pad Alignment- 5mm hex - no torque wrench required just don't over wrench it

: CLICK HERE ADJUST REAR CALIPER & PADS

2nd Step = this guy has a level head most likely "contamination" which could have happened at the factory - with Rubbing Alcohol to clean that rotor (don't get fancy with harsher chemicals) - pc of 100 grit sand paper to lightlyt smooth the surface of the pads - you won't need to resurface the rotor : CLICK HERE LECTRIC 2.0 REAR BRAKE SQUEAL FIX
Thanks this helps immensely, I will give it a try Sunday.
 
Well I resurfaced, re-aligned, cleaned with rubbing alcohol. It is better but still squeals somewhat, suppose I'll give it more time.
 
Hey - Kudo's to you on the followthru - I mean that with respect. Ypu made a decent stab at it - got it a bit better - now you have a little more heart into your bike. Couple of days circle back to youtube - my experience I look for the "level headed guys". There is a "bedding procedure" for Hydraulic eBike Brakes" - several different procedures all claiming to be "the One".
 
Hey - Kudo's to you on the followthru - I mean that with respect. Ypu made a decent stab at it - got it a bit better - now you have a little more heart into your bike. Couple of days circle back to youtube - my experience I look for the "level headed guys". There is a "bedding procedure" for Hydraulic eBike Brakes" - several different procedures all claiming to be "the One".
Saw the video about a spray product called De-Squeak by CRC. Cleaned rotors and went on a break in ride it worked immediately, gone on several rides since, all good. Thanks for the tip!
 
Usually, brake bedding will solve the squeal problem. Especially on hydraulic brakes where they can't be adjusted (and don't need to be) like manual brakes where there are cable stretch and pad placement issues that creep in.

Riding in the rain will clean off the rotors so the layer of pad material that is bedding on is gone. They'll squeal like crazy until a new layer of pad material is bedded back on.

Also usually: Cleaning rotors is just a temporary fix without bedding.

Those videos above are meant for cabled/manual brakes, not hydraulics. That second video was horrifying. Pad glazing is addressed by the holes in the rotors and the pads skwunching up against and across them. Not sandpaper for God's sake. And the bedding procedure he shows includes a full stop which you should never, ever do. You always want to brake to a slowdown, not to a stop. Leave hot pads over one spot on a rotor, even for a moment, causes uneven rotor cooling and thats how you warp a rotor. Look at bedding instructions for both bicycles and cars and you should see pretty much all of them but this one telling you not to brake to a stop.
 
It’s important on Lectric e-bikes before 1st use to clean the oil/crud off the rotors before engaging the brakes for the 1st time or the pads will become contaminated and need to be replaced. I’ll post a picture of the gunk that came off the XP Trike rotors. Keep in mind that I used both sides of the paper towel so whatever gunk you see in the picture is mirrored on the reverse side.
IMG_7277.jpeg
I used a piece of paper towel sprayed with automotive brake cleaner. Keep in mind this is one rotor on a brand new Trike
 
Once you do the cleaning things, I found that loosening the two screws/bolts that hold the two caliper halves together then squeeze and hold the appropriate brake lever reasonably hard and while still holding retighten the two screws/bolts. Just good/snug no reason to really wrench on them. This serves the purpose of re-centering the caliper in relationship to the rotor. Worked for me with same issue. Also with Lectric bike/trike.
 
Once you do the cleaning things, I found that loosening the two screws/bolts that hold the two caliper halves together then squeeze and hold the appropriate brake lever reasonably hard and while still holding retighten the two screws/bolts. Just good/snug no reason to really wrench on them. This serves the purpose of re-centering the caliper in relationship to the rotor. Worked for me with same issue. Also with Lectric bike/trike.
You have stumbled on what is perhaps the standard recommendation for basic brake caliper alignment. Plus you're adding in the 'just snug the bolts' thing which is not generally recommended but I have found it to be exactly what the doctor ordered for brake calipers on bikes. What I do is *gently* snug one bolt, then the other, then go back to the first bolt and snug it just a tad more. Then the second and call it done. All the while holding the lever on the brake so the caliper is holding onto the rotor. Doing it harder, or not doing it in super gentle, alternating fashion, causes the caliper to move. Since I use Magura calipers, meant for 2.1mm extra-thick rotors, and Tektro 2.3mm thick downhill rotors, I have very little room for misalignment so I have to get it jussssst right.

If the rotor loosens up after a few hundred miles, fine no problem. Just repeat the snugging process. A loose caliper held on with long-ish M6 bolts - especially if you put some blue Vibra Tite gel on their threads (never loc-tite) - will still perform perfectly well. This is one of only a couple of places I will use a thread locker on a bike rather than only a torque wrench.
 
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