Choosing a new fat e-bike, but which one?

[Vailen]

Hello everyone. I recently joined this forum and, not surprisingly, you have met another person interested in purchasing an e-bike.

I used to be an intense mountain bike rider, but now in my 50s trying to do that kind of mountain biking is too difficult for me. Now we have e-MTBs – a game changer. I also had the opportunity to ride a few different fat bikes (not electric) and absolutely loved how they ride. With my new bike and electrical assist, I want to go deep into the forests for a casual ride, maybe some overlanding, as well as ride on the road and bike paths alongside my wife with her e-bike.

I have a philosophy when buying these machines: save your money, make a huge investment, and keep that investment for decades. I only recently had to let go my 27-year-old mountain bike as it was too costly to repair (i.e., I am better off buying a new bike).

I want an “everything” fat bike. That is, good for overlanding, good for trail riding (although not the most technical or toughest trails), good for road riding, and good in all types of weather as I enjoy riding in rain and snow. As I age, comfort has become an extremely important concern. Traditional MTBs have a more aggressive riding posture that my back would not react well to. A more upright, relaxed position is preferable, and I can usually achieve this by installing an adjustable stem. I also require dual suspension and strongly prefer a mid-drive motor as I will be climbing hills on roads and trails often. I am also only 5 ft 4 in tall. With shoes on I may gain about ½ inch, but a small frame would be preferable if I can find one. Otherwise, I will have to get a medium-sized frame (which is meant for people at least 5 ft 6 in tall).

I have narrowed down my options to two bikes, but I am open to other models if anyone has something better:

• QuietKat Ibex
• Rambo Venom

QuietKat Ibex
The QuietKat Ibex is a great e-bike. I will be test riding a comparable model soon to make sure I am comfortable with a medium-sized frame. Apparently, they do not make small frames in this model although their Rubicon (no longer available) had all the same specifications and was available in small (sigh).

Another limitation of the Ibex is the gearing. I would prefer more gearing options, especially the Rohloff 14-speed hub. I am not certain if the Ibex (or any of the QuietKat models) could be upgraded with that hub. I have sent them an e-mail asking that question.

Rambo Venom
This bike is amazing and has everything I want in an e-fat bike including the Rohloff 14-speed hub. However, it does not have dual suspension (the QuietKat Ibex does). The Venom’s battery has less capacity than the Ibex, but I can live with that. Conversely, the Venom supports mounting dual batteries, which doubles the range. This bike also has a removeable throttle button in case you go to an area where throttles are not allowed (not sure if the Ibex has this function). The Venom is only available in one size: medium.

How do I Choose?
As long as I can use the controller to set the bike as class 1, class 2, class 3, or unlimited, then I can stay within the legal limits of almost anywhere I go. Right now, if I buy one of these bikes, I have to sacrifice dual suspension (Venom) or the Rohloff speed hub (Ibex). I want both. I have e-mailed QuietKat to see if a Rohloff upgrade is possible, as well as Rambo Bikes if they intend to create a future version of the Venom that has dual suspension.

Assuming both responses above are negative, which bike would you choose? Or, does anyone know of an e-fat bike that combines the best of the 2 bikes above? Or maybe a different bike I have not considered? Your feedback is *greatly* appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Steve k]

Hi Vailen, I have recently bought a new E mountain bike myself.
Check out e-cyclist.co.uk. go to the menu bar and select electric mountain bikes, they have a wide selection and something to suit everyone

 

[biknut]

In my opinion this is probably the best eFatty available. I don't own one, but I've ridden with a couple of them, and they're pretty impressive.

Kepler 52V Electric Fat Tire Ebike

Discover the ultimate e-bike experience with the Ariel Rider Kepler. Featuring a powerful motor, advanced display, and sleek design, this e-bike is designed for maximum performance and convenience. Explore the city or take on the trails with ease. Learn more and buy now at arielrider.com

arielrider.com

 

[Vailen]

I am not familiar with Ariel Rider and will do some research. Thanks for your suggestion!

 

[Vailen]

I have recently learned that it is possible to upgrade a QuietKat (mid-drive models) with a Rohloff 14-speed hub.

 

[m@Robertson]

You could consider building one, too Get the frame you want, put on a BBSHD for 160 Nm torque. Pick your own 52v battery in a size more likely to last you out in the boondocks... get serious about overlanding and you're probably better off with the kind of battery capacity that does not exist on a production bike.

This one was a $250 Motobecane Lurch frame I rescued on Ebay, stripped, powder-coated and built up with, among other things, carbon fiber deep dish rims that can take an incredible beating. 4-piston Magura brakes mean inching down a granite rock face is more likely to end well.

But thats a pretty mundane bike. For overlanding, a step or two further is not out of order. A step further: Independent 2wd with a mid drive in the back that has synchronized PAS. Low power on the front wheel is a miracle negotiating passage with ease in areas a bicycle has no business riding thru. Commercially available 2wd bikes are literally nothing compared to what you can put together with proper durable components that aren't dumbed down.

And here's two steps further. Just one motor, but capacity to carry things out the wazoo. I overland this bike as you see it on firewood runs to/from a campsite in the Lower Sierras. Or, I did before it all burned up. :-(

Based on what you are telling us about your background, you likely know which end of the crankarm puller goes where. I'd give serious consideration to DIY where you choose proper cycling frames and components for your build. Here's a roadmap that can walk you thru the whole process, with links for parts and a tools list.

How To Build An Ebike From Scratch

You want to build an ebike, but the project seems overwhelming. Lets de-mystify the entire process, including planning, parts and perfecting the end result.

talesontwowheels.com

 

[Vailen]

Wow. I never considered this. I know how to maintain a bike, but building one from scratch? I have a feeling that is more challenging than it seems. Regarding the frame, do you know where I could acquire a high quality, full suspension, fat-bike frame?

Funny you should mention custom builds. I created a "dream fat e-bike" list of components that combines the best of what I have found from multiple manufacturers. If you have any upgrades that are not listed, feel free to revise/augment the list. The likelihood of me building a bike this complex is unlikely, but I do enjoy trying to do the impossible.

“Dream Fat e-Bike” Specifications:

• Frame (if aluminum): High Grade Aluminum Alloy 6061 | 130mm Travel | Internal Cable Routing (similar to either QuietKat Ibex or Rambo Venom)
• Frame (if carbon): ????
• Size: Small
• Gear System: Rohloff E-14 (500/14) Speed Hub with 526% gear range
• Mid-drive motor: Bafang M620 1000W motor with smart torque sensing
• Performance: 160 nM of torque
• Throttle: Removeable left thumb throttle
• Suspension, Front: 200mm x 57mm RockShox Monarch RL
• Suspension, Rear: 140mm KKE Inverted Air Fork
• Tires: 26-inch x 4.8-inch all terrain
• Rims: Aluminum or Carbon that can accommodate the largest fat tire available: Vee Tire Snowshoe 2XL 26x5.05
• Brakes (front & rear): Tektro 4-piston hydraulic
• Rotors (front & rear): 203mm
• Battery #1: 20AH / 52V | 1040 Wh; capable of running on dual batteries
• Battery #2: 20AH / 52V | 1040 Wh; capable of running on dual batteries
• Class: 1, 2, 3, or unlimited (controlled by user)
• Display: customizable LED, waterproof
• Load Capacity: 300 lbs
• Chain: ????

Other motor & gearing ideas (brainstorming):

• Mid-drive: Pinion E1.12 (not sure if this works with e-bikes)
• 2nd hub motor – front: Bafang M620 1000W (not sure if this is possible)

or

• Rear hub motor: Bafang M620 1000W
• Front hub motor: Bafang M620 1000W
• Gearing: Pinion 1.18 (not sure if this works with e-bikes)

 

[bobmcc81]

If you're comfortable with the mechanics and swapping parts this may not be as big a concern for you as it would be for others but consider researching the longevity and stability of the companies. These are both direct to consumer brands so will they be around a year from now to support any warranty claims. If they use all industry standard parts, Bafang, Bosch, Shimano, Tektro, etc that is less risk. Just a thought.

 

[m@Robertson]

Wow. I never considered this. I know how to maintain a bike, but building one from scratch? I have a feeling that is more challenging than it seems. Regarding the frame, do you know where I could acquire a high quality, full suspension, fat-bike frame?

Funny you should mention custom builds. I created a "dream fat e-bike" list of components that combines the best of what I have found from multiple manufacturers. If you have any upgrades that are not listed, feel free to revise/augment the list. The likelihood of me building a bike this complex is unlikely, but I do enjoy trying to do the impossible.

“Dream Fat e-Bike” Specifications:

• Frame (if aluminum): High Grade Aluminum Alloy 6061 | 130mm Travel | Internal Cable Routing (similar to either QuietKat Ibex or Rambo Venom)
• Frame (if carbon): ????
• Size: Small
• Gear System: Rohloff E-14 (500/14) Speed Hub with 526% gear range
• Mid-drive motor: Bafang M620 1000W motor with smart torque sensing
• Performance: 160 nM of torque
• Throttle: Removeable left thumb throttle
• Suspension, Front: 200mm x 57mm RockShox Monarch RL
• Suspension, Rear: 140mm KKE Inverted Air Fork
• Tires: 26-inch x 4.8-inch all terrain
• Rims: Aluminum or Carbon that can accommodate the largest fat tire available: Vee Tire Snowshoe 2XL 26x5.05
• Brakes (front & rear): Tektro 4-piston hydraulic
• Rotors (front & rear): 203mm
• Battery #1: 20AH / 52V | 1040 Wh; capable of running on dual batteries
• Battery #2: 20AH / 52V | 1040 Wh; capable of running on dual batteries
• Class: 1, 2, 3, or unlimited (controlled by user)
• Display: customizable LED, waterproof
• Load Capacity: 300 lbs
• Chain: ????

Other motor & gearing ideas (brainstorming):

• Mid-drive: Pinion E1.12 (not sure if this works with e-bikes)
• 2nd hub motor – front: Bafang M620 1000W (not sure if this is possible)

or

• Rear hub motor: Bafang M620 1000W
• Front hub motor: Bafang M620 1000W
• Gearing: Pinion 1.18 (not sure if this works with e-bikes)

It is only a daunting task when you focus look at the forest. Concentrate on the trees instead One job at a time, one bit at a time. De-mystifying a bike build is why I wrote that article series. Do it once and its no big deal from then on... and your standards for what constitutes a quality bike go way up when you can pick quality parts yourself, without regard to some bean counter's decision to shave this or that corner.

I have done fat bikes, as you can see, and I've done more than the two pictured. You can see no suspension on the 2wd bike and thats because front suspension is not safe with a front motor. With that said, I did spend quite a bit of time looking for a quality FS fat bike to build out. To all intents and purposes there is a grand total of only one: The Salsa Bucksaw. When you go FS, one of the things you will kiss goodbye is a place to put the battery. The older alloy Bucksaws have enough room to put a 13.5ah Luna Wolf pack. The thing is, in 2023 to get one you have to buy your BBSHD from Luna as part of a kit, and thats the only way they will sell a Wolf pack now.

But the Bucksaw is not going to be anywhere near your dream build, even though its a superb fat bike.

Don't do carbon fiber. Its a bad choice. Longevity of carbon frames - especially the Chinese ones you will have access to - is unproven at best. One of my favorite memes illustrates the common thinking on frame construction by builders.

Alloy is fine so long as its overbuilt.

Rohloff is going to be fine so long as you don't require a belt, which will require a split in the frame which will in turn require a custom frame job to put one in. A Rohloff is rated for 130 Nm of torque. Both the BBSHD and the M620 provide 160. Rohloffs seldom fail, but they are known to do so occasionally when stressed hard, which is exactly what you will be doing to it.

Requiring an M620 opens up a can of worms. You'd better get hold of a UART motor and not a CAN bus version. And you will not be taking advantage of all of the wide aftermarket support of the also-160 Nm BBSHD market. Plus the number of M620-compatible frames vs. BBSHD is small vs. gigantic.

If you want a really good fat fork, skip the KKE and get a 150mm Wren Inverted. You can see it on my Surly in the pic above. Light years better than the Bluto I replaced it with. I know the triple-tree is neat but the Wren will kick any fat bike fork's ass in terms of performance. 43mm uppers and 35mm stanchions.

I have a Rockshox Super Deluxe coil on the back of my 29er enduro, with an upgraded 550 lb spring, and I since I did that I will always prefer a quality coil to an air shock. It just works forever without any further effort once you set it up. My small scooter mtb uses a Fox shock on the back and I think its a better choice than the Monarch.

Be careful about using the 2XL tire. The 5.05" is deceptive as they are really not much wider than the XL, but they are much taller. I found I got amazing traction with the Snowshoe instead of the XL. 5.05" sounds sexy but I suggest you try 'smaller' 4.8" tires and see if you feel a need to change your standover by that much.

Dual batteries: Its far better to run one battery, which is why you want to go DIY. I have one that is 30 ah that fits in the triangle of one of my 2wd fatties (not pictured above). Dual batteries generally means one on the back rack, which sucks on an off road bike. Not sure how you are going to get dual packs on a FS bike as generally the rear shock is in the way of a battery in the triangle. Would have to be an in-frame pack and then you are still stuck with a pack on the back rack. And if its in-frame, its a proprietary pack. You are beholden to pay the manufacturer's price for that pack, and then you are SOL if they stop carrying it when you need a replacement.

Having done quite a few bikes, I can say I have gotten away from the fatties. I've found that - unless you have some very specific needs - a plus sized tire will give you all the comfort benefits of a fat tire without many of the drawbacks. For instance a fat bike is not going to have any sort of flat protection. My Big Fat Dummy is tubeless and uses Flatout, which is great stuff as a sealant, but its nothing like a belted tire with Tannus underneath, and a thornproof under that, and Flatout inside of it all.

 

[m@Robertson]

And with all that said, I forgot about a production bike I would actually buy (I wouldn't buy a Quietkat and definitely not a Rambo)

BIKES

No matter what type of riding you like to do, there’s an e-bike for you! Once you integrate an e-bike into your daily life, don’t be surprised if you find yourself going by bike more and more often. Because not only are electric bikes super useful, they’re super fun to ride.

www.frey.bike

The Beast is the apex predator of production e-mtbs. 2.6" and 2.8" tires are plenty big although maybe not for overlanding. Scroll down and look at their fatties for that. Frey has a great reputation for quality and you can see their components are a step or two up from what you typically see from manufacturers.

 

[Vailen]

Wow. I am getting an education on fat e-bikes, as well as building a bike, after being a member of this forum for only 2 days! Wonderful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. If you do not mind, I may send you some PMs in the future to ask for advice.

- Regarding the Vee 5.05 tires, I only meant to have rims that accommodate anything on the market. I would not actually use those tires.

- Regarding the Rohloff speed hub, I had no idea they are limited to 130 Nm of torque. Although I am going to be a "peddler" much more than someone who uses the throttle, the last thing I want to do is stress a very expensive Rohloff hub. Looks like this is out of the picture.

- Over the life of my former MTB, I have replaced brakes, brake pads, hubs, cassettes, cranks, and tried twice (and failed) to install a new derailleur (had to go to my local bike shop to help me install it). I was an active MTB rider during a time when we did not have disc brakes, rotors, hydraulics, or motors. I have never owned an e-bike, much less try to build any bike from scratch. I knew the motor would be a can of worms since my knowledge is very limited. That's another big reason why building an e-bike, for me, may not be a good idea.

Out of curiosity, what are your objections to QuietKat and Rambo? Have I missed something that a more experienced / seasoned rider would be able to see?

 

[Vailen]

I gave a lot of thought to m@Robertson's comment about an internal battery. If you purchase a bike with an internal battery, then you are limited to that battery only. What happens when you need to replace the battery? Based on my research, batteries last 2 to 5 years depending how they are used and cared for. When a battery needs to be replaced, the solution sounds simple: buy another one. I learned something today that small companies have a finite stock of the batteries used in their internal frames. Once they sell out, they will not make or offer those batteries any longer.

Now I understand why m@Robertson would never purchase a QuietKat or Rambo bike. They both have internal batteries. Does that mean in, let's say, 8 years from now I need a new battery and they are no longer available? Could you imagine trying to peddle a 75-pound bike without any power?

Replacing a car battery is easy; there's always a company out there that offers a replacement even if the car has long been discontinued. The only way this flexibility could happen for an e-bike is an externally mounted battery. In theory, you could purchase a battery from another company as long as the volts/amps/watts ratings are compatible with the motor you are using.

All I can say is ... wow. Buying a $5,000 e-bike just became much more complicated. I do not plan on ever buying another bike. So far, Frey is the only company that offers a high-end fat e-bike with an externally mounted battery.

 

[m@Robertson]

An 80mm or 90mm rim will do a 5.05" 2XL. There's your clue right there that they are not that much wider There are 100mm rims out there but I wouldn't bother. Even Christini, who puts 2XLs on their Abominable model factory-stock, uses Mulefut 80mm rims. If you have the money to spend and can source a local wheelbuilder, I highly recommend the Nextie 90mm Wild Dragon II rims. I have them on two bikes and they do not disappoint.

Bear in mind lots of people put Rohloffs on 160 Nm motors. BUT a few kill them, and its because the Rohloff is rated for 130Nm and not 160. Pedalers are more likely to be fine... but you're out of spec if you do it.

The Park guide on derailleur adjusting is the Gold Standard Do what they say in that Youtube video and you cannot miss.

In my personal view, QuietKat and Rambo are both overpriced for what you get. Rambo in particular has never struck me as having prices that match their spec sheets - and I'm comparing them to other bikes that are available for sale, not necessarily because I can build one. I'm probably thinking back to models they do not offer anymore, but I remember they had bikes with BBS02's that they were asking BBSHD level prices for. If you compare what you get with a Frey vs. that $8300 Rambo (Eight Thousand Three Hundred freaking dollars!) you'll see a big disparity.

Want to see another bike that points up the bad value of those two brands: Look at this one:

Z1 Enduro EBIKE

One of the best fast electric bikes on the market for an incredible price. 2000 watt speed machine.

lunacycle.com

Doesn't have your fat tires but look at the components and the motor configuration. Or look at this one which you can get with a 2500w controller option.

X2 Enduro Ebike

Carbon fiber mid drive beauty.

lunacycle.com

 

[Vailen]

I am trying to avoid having any specific bike components, like rims, custom built with the exception of the frame. As long as I can find the bike parts I need to maintain the bike for many years, I'll stick with aftermarket parts.

Just for fun, I sent an e-mail to Rohloff asking whether they have considered upgrading their Rohloff 14-speed hub to handle torque as high as 180 nM. Since so many people are purchasing 1000W motors, that's not unreasonable request since this market is growing very fast in the US.

Yes...the Rambo Venom is ridiculously overpriced. Now that you have shown me some alternatives, why do they charge so much? I admit I feel some nostalgia seeing "Rambo" on the bike since I am a big fan of Sylvester Stallone's Rambo movies...I saw them all when they first appeared in theaters. I have found various QuietKat models on sale at various retailers, but not the Rambo models.

Wow...that Z-1 Enduro Bike is really nice. If that had fat tires, I would have really given that serious consideration.

 

[Vailen]

Take a look at this:

Luna Apex

I am still getting surprised with the kinds of bikes that are available today.

 

[Vailen]

I have noticed that the large majority of bike manufacturers, regardless of the kind of e-bike, uses a battery that's inside the frame. What going to happen to the many people who have e-bikes when they are unable to buy a replacement battery? It will happen eventually, especially with e-bikes purchased from smaller manufacturers.

Based on what I have learned over the past week, I am rethinking about spending too much money on an e-bike. I will now either (1) buy a cheap e-bike, or (2) custom build one and make sure I can use any kind of battery with the motor. I also noticed that Bafang is moving away from their more universal model that uses a CAN interface and shifting towards a more closed system, much like what Shimano and Bosch have today. If this happens, what "open system" would be available in the future?

I am still amazed that manufacturers of e-bikes, who know very well the battery will eventually need to be replaced, also know that they will eventually not produce the battery that you need 10 years later (for example). That forces everyone to buy a new bike more often. I held onto my MTB for 27 years. Now, I can foresee many people being forced to upgrade their e-bike, just like your mobile phone or i-watch, more often. That's really sad.

 

[m@Robertson]

Take a look at this:

Luna Apex

Yeah the Apex is long gone. That was sort of their first manufactured carbon fiber bike IIRC.

I think something you have to come to grips with is that full suspension fat bikes have been introduced into the market some time ago and never really went anywhere. Thats why they are either a niche custom frame or discontinued years ago. Something I think you should consider is a hardtail, a really good suspension fork like a Wren, and then put a good suspension seatpost on like a Thudbuster or a Kinekt. Thats where I have gone with all of mine. Its not a FS bike but its a comfortable alternative. And your choices for a frame will go from almost zero to many.

I have noticed that the large majority of bike manufacturers, regardless of the kind of e-bike, uses a battery that's inside the frame. What going to happen to the many people who have e-bikes when they are unable to buy a replacement battery? It will happen eventually, especially with e-bikes purchased from smaller manufacturers.

People aren't thinking long-term. And really a lot of the imported direct-to-consumer bikes aren't made to a high enough standard to expect them to last beyond the life of the battery.

Based on what I have learned over the past week, I am rethinking about spending too much money on an e-bike. I will now either (1) buy a cheap e-bike, or (2) custom build one and make sure I can use any kind of battery with the motor. I also noticed that Bafang is moving away from their more universal model that uses a CAN interface and shifting towards a more closed system, much like what Shimano and Bosch have today. If this happens, what "open system" would be available in the future?

Bafang's UART motors are still manufactured and still widely available. For alternatives we have the Cyc X1, its lower-powered new, very refined cousin the Photon, and the rumoured BBSHD killer 'Proton' that may see the light of day this year. Also ToSeven is just coming out with new motors aimed straight at Bafang and the low powered Tongsheng TSDZ2.

I am still amazed that manufacturers of e-bikes, who know very well the battery will eventually need to be replaced, also know that they will eventually not produce the battery that you need 10 years later (for example). That forces everyone to buy a new bike more often. I held onto my MTB for 27 years. Now, I can foresee many people being forced to upgrade their e-bike, just like your mobile phone or i-watch, more often. That's really sad.

Its deliberate of course. I have seen E-Bullitt owners in the EU who were early adopters find out that, thousands of kilometers later, their worn-out Shimano motors are no longer supported. At all. And Shimano changed the bolt pattern on the follow-ons so there is nothing that can be bolted up as a replacement. We're talking about an $8-9000 dollar bike that is a paperweight now - except a few former dealers who hoarded motors and know what they have are now selling them for $1000 and up.

My Bullitts, I bought the analog frame kits and built them frame-up with my own motor and battery choices. I'll decide when the bike is ready for retirement and if there's a problem with the motor, or even if I can't buy a replacement, I can always put something different on.

 

[cameracamel]

Hello everyone. I recently joined this forum and, not surprisingly, you have met another person interested in purchasing an e-bike.

I used to be an intense mountain bike rider, but now in my 50s trying to do that kind of mountain biking is too difficult for me. Now we have e-MTBs – a game changer. I also had the opportunity to ride a few different fat bikes (not electric) and absolutely loved how they ride. With my new bike and electrical assist, I want to go deep into the forests for a casual ride, maybe some overlanding, as well as ride on the road and bike paths alongside my wife with her e-bike.

I have a philosophy when buying these machines: save your money, make a huge investment, and keep that investment for decades. I only recently had to let go my 27-year-old mountain bike as it was too costly to repair (i.e., I am better off buying a new bike).

I want an “everything” fat bike. That is, good for overlanding, good for trail riding (although not the most technical or toughest trails), good for road riding, and good in all types of weather as I enjoy riding in rain and snow. As I age, comfort has become an extremely important concern. Traditional MTBs have a more aggressive riding posture that my back would not react well to. A more upright, relaxed position is preferable, and I can usually achieve this by installing an adjustable stem. I also require dual suspension and strongly prefer a mid-drive motor as I will be climbing hills on roads and trails often. I am also only 5 ft 4 in tall. With shoes on I may gain about ½ inch, but a small frame would be preferable if I can find one. Otherwise, I will have to get a medium-sized frame (which is meant for people at least 5 ft 6 in tall).

I have narrowed down my options to two bikes, but I am open to other models if anyone has something better:

• QuietKat Ibex
• Rambo Venom

QuietKat Ibex
The QuietKat Ibex is a great e-bike. I will be test riding a comparable model soon to make sure I am comfortable with a medium-sized frame. Apparently, they do not make small frames in this model although their Rubicon (no longer available) had all the same specifications and was available in small (sigh).

Another limitation of the Ibex is the gearing. I would prefer more gearing options, especially the Rohloff 14-speed hub. I am not certain if the Ibex (or any of the QuietKat models) could be upgraded with that hub. I have sent them an e-mail asking that question.

Rambo Venom
This bike is amazing and has everything I want in an e-fat bike including the Rohloff 14-speed hub. However, it does not have dual suspension (the QuietKat Ibex does). The Venom’s battery has less capacity than the Ibex, but I can live with that. Conversely, the Venom supports mounting dual batteries, which doubles the range. This bike also has a removeable throttle button in case you go to an area where throttles are not allowed (not sure if the Ibex has this function). The Venom is only available in one size: medium.

How do I Choose?
As long as I can use the controller to set the bike as class 1, class 2, class 3, or unlimited, then I can stay within the legal limits of almost anywhere I go. Right now, if I buy one of these bikes, I have to sacrifice dual suspension (Venom) or the Rohloff speed hub (Ibex). I want both. I have e-mailed QuietKat to see if a Rohloff upgrade is possible, as well as Rambo Bikes if they intend to create a future version of the Venom that has dual suspension.

Assuming both responses above are negative, which bike would you choose? Or, does anyone know of an e-fat bike that combines the best of the 2 bikes above? Or maybe a different bike I have not considered? Your feedback is *greatly* appreciated. Thanks!

I found a great value in the Mokwheel Scoira, plus a ton of free items with the sale they have. SOLID made bikes!!

 

[Hoggdoc]

We get this question so many times on the forum. It's impossible to answer as there are so many variables. Each rider needs to do their own research to focus on the features they most want on their e bike.

I can offer some general assistance: #1 Make sure the bike will fit you; #2 Vet the company selling the bike as there are new ones showing up everyday. You want some assurance the company will be able to support you after the sale. #3 Check the laws in your area to determine was is legal as some places have very restrictive laws about power and speed e bikes are allowed on public roads.

 

[Tacticooldennis]

I have a ENGWE Engine Pro ebike, its pretty solid with a 1000w motor. feels a lot like a BMX bike, you can watch my videos here:

Good luck!