My eBike Build - Custom 2000’s Nashbar Bike

[Chuy]

I am going to use this thread to document the mid-drive eBike conversion to my custom-built pedal-pushing Nashbar mtn bike. Truth be told, ‘custom‘ is used loosely here - other than the frame, I only needed a top-pull front derailleur to complete the ‘customization’ from the donor bike, an Ibex Ignition II I bought in 2005. The Nashbar frame I purchased in late 2000’s for about $150. At the time the Ibex had a leaking rear shock and I wanted the lighter weight of a hard tail. The resulting Nashbar bike has been an excellent all a-rounder; it should handle the power of the Bafang BBSHD motor I want to install. Besides, I don't ride hard and I don’t intend to ride single-track trails.
Note: I still have the Ibex dual-suspension frame and may decide to build it back up with a mid-drive kit as well one day.

BEFORE EBIKE CONVERSION
Type: 26-inch hardtail
Frame: 2007’ish Nashbar 7005 or 6061 series mtn-bike frame
Handlebar: Venzo bull horn 25.4x455mm (installed upside down)
Drivetrain: 8-speed, 11-32
Shifters: Shimano ST-EF51 with integrated brake levers
Crankset: Prowheel double 28/44; 175mm
Derailleurs: Microshift M26-rear; Shimano 3x8-front
Brakes: Tektro IO mechanical 160mm disc, front and rear
Fork: Marzocchi MZ Comp
Saddle: Terry Liberator
Seat post: Nashbar suspension seat post
Tires: Schwinn 26 X 1.95 mtn tread
Weight: 35 lbs

Some of the mechanicals came from a, now defunct internet based, Ibex mtn bike, i.e. brakes, stem, and fork. https://web.archive.org/web/20041012231431/https://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/IGN-2-Details.html

AFTER EBIKE CONVERSION
Bafang BBSHD mid drive motor kit ($610, Greenergy, via Aliexpress)
UPP 19.2mah 48 volt battery ($335, UPP website)
42T alum chainring with 21mm offset ($37, Aliexpress)
Eggrider V2 display ($115, Golden Motor)
Grin Technologies eBike Battery mount, double bob ($37, on amazon)
Weight: 57 lbs

I’m using Bafang left brake with integrated cut-off sensor but retained the original right brake/shifter (no cut-off sensor).

 

[Chuy]

I finished the last details of my eBike conversion - added new handlebar tape, a bottle cage on the top tube, and a mirror, which I don't really like. My first battery charge went 57 miles. I didn’t intend to run the battery dead - the battery meter hadn't yet reached the red LED light, indicating <25%, but the motor shut down going up a steep hill. The display never went out and the motor re-engaged after turning the display off-on. I hope running the battery “dry” didn’t do any damage to it. It took a 2-amp charger 9 hours to fully recharge the battery and it appears to be running normal.

 

[Chuy]

Yesterday, I replaced my 11-32 cassette to an 11-42 cassette. Also a new chain - it came with 116 links which was the right length to accommodate the largest cog. However, I needed a rear derailleur extender to clear the two largest cogs. It works - no issues shifting, but my next derailleur will be one that will not require an extender. My current derailleur is a Microshift M26 long cage with about 1K miles.

 

[Chuy]

Today, replaced Tektro IO mechanical brake calipers with Avid BB7 calipers. Also replaced front 160mm disc rotor with 180mm.

 

[Unicorn]

Expect to have significant drive-train wear. Mid-drives want a straight chain line, and care needs to be taken when switching gears. It will cause so much chain and gear wear that after a time, a new chain won't key into the worn gears in the cluster anymore.

Mounting larger rotors is a good idea, but you will discover that hydraulic brakes are almost necessary.

I think you will find that flat pedals are a better fit for an ebike.

If you find your back and shoulders are getting sore on long rides, look into an adjustable stem. It will let you change your riding position and make a big difference.

Where do you live that you don't mount fenders? I can't imagine that.

Stay safe.

 

[Chuy]

@Unicorn I anticipated accelerated wear but not excessive, and I have not seen excessive after 500 miles. The chain I replaced was from before the conversion and has 1000’s of miles. I’m keeping it, and carrying it, as a backup. Even though I didn't install a shift cut-off switch, I use my left brake lever power cut-off as a clutch. And I adjusted the motor power parameters for smooth power ramp-ups.

Brakes - Since I have never used hydraulics, I don't know how better they are over mechanical. Currently, I don't feel that they under-brake, compared to before the conversion. I don't doubt they may have a longer braking distance but they feel solid.

Pedals - I never updated that. Shortly after the first pics, I installed double platform pedals - SPD on one side; flat on the other.

Adjustable stem - I have one to install along with wider handlebars. I’m getting rid of the integrated grip ends cause I hate that the only mirror I can put on is the style I currently have. I prefer the little ones that slip into the open ends.

Fenders - Im in southern CA, but, I do have fenders. The front has a down-tube clip-on; the rear rack bag doubles as a rear fender.

 

[Unicorn]

I anticipated accelerated wear but not excessive, and I have not seen excessive after 500 miles. The chain I replaced was from before the conversion and has 1000’s of miles. I’m keeping it, and carrying it, as a backup. - I mean in relation to standard bike, but mid-drive do cause higher wear even with a IGH that has a perfectly straight chain-line. I would go through 2 to 3 chians and rear gear yearly depending on the riding conditions. But I was horrible about chain maintenance. Thow a new chain and gear on, ride it for 4 to 6 months and swap them out with replacements.

Even though I didn't install a shift cut-off switch, I use my left brake lever power cut-off as a clutch. And I adjusted the motor power parameters for smooth power ramp-ups. - Smart. No throttle at all and make the shift nice and smooth. That's how you do it.

Brakes - Since I have never used hydraulics, I don't know how better they are over mechanical. Currently, I don't feel that they under-brake, compared to before the conversion. I don't doubt they may have a longer braking distance but they feel solid. - Hydraulics brake have so much better breaking power. As you ride more you will find yourself riding faster, and possibly with more added weight. When necessary to upgrade switch to a good hydraulic brake. I have never had an issue with the Tektro Dorado brakes that came on the bike. Nine years of riding 45K miles and only two fluid changes, and I had them rebuilt with new o-ring twice in that time. I did go through brake pads about every 4 months, a pain in the ass. I'm hoping the Maven are just as reliable, and that with 4 pistons and larger rotors and pad surface area I can get the pad change down to twice yearly.

Pedals - I never updated that. Shortly after the first pics, I installed double platform pedals - SPD on one side; flat on the other. - Nice. I've switched to enormous flats. I still spike my calves but they are way more comfortable on long rides. I even find myself standing on my heels sometimes. Do you still use clip in shoes?

Adjustable stem - I have one to install along with wider handlebars. I’m getting rid of the integrated grip ends cause I hate that the only mirror I can put on is the style I currently have. I prefer the little ones that slip into the open ends. - You will like the stem. They help to dial in the stance perfectly and to be able to change it if you have stiif neck from sleeping on a GD rock all night. I use two large mirrors and don't want to have to drop my head to use one.

Fenders - Im in southern CA, but, I do have fenders. The front has a down-tube clip-on; the rear rack bag doubles as a rear fender. - So minimal water. Lucky you, dude! I live near Seattle and ride in rain constantly. I have a odd frame that allows me to use 29" wide fenders on 26" X 2.5" tires. They allow a 2" to 4" seperation between tire and fender so debris doesn't get stuck while riding. The fenders keep mud, dirt and road grime off of the panniers as much as they do me.

Sounds like you know what you're doing, dude.

Stay safe.

 

[Chuy]

… Do you still use clip in shoes?

Almost every time I ride. I only use the non-clip-in side when off-roading in hilly and/or rocky terrain - whenever I anticipate having to jump off the pedals quickly. I actually feel funny when I pedal without them as I am used to pulling up on one pedal when the other is pushing down. That’s what makes them efficient.

 

[Unicorn]

That’s what makes them efficient.

Yeah, I understand the concept. I never have to exert myself enough to warrant their use with my ebike. The advantage of having a massive battery or two, I guess. Plus, I'm off the bike as much as I am on it. I used clip-ins on my MTB while stationed at Ft. Huachuca, AZ. I got tired of falling like a fool. At least you can't spike yourself on pedal pins.

Stay safe.

 

[Chuy]

Yeah, I understand the concept. I never have to exert myself enough to warrant their use with my ebike. The advantage of having a massive battery or two, I guess. Plus, I'm off the bike as much as I am on it. I used clip-ins on my MTB while stationed at Ft. Huachuca, AZ. I got tired of falling like a fool. At least you can't spike yourself on pedal pins.

Stay safe.

No exerting necessary, unless you want to, they just make your pedal stroke more efficient. Falling?! They are adjustable you know . I’ve only fallen once, because of them, and that was with the old style cage set-up - the first time I went on a 30-mile ride. Stopped quickly at a light and didn't get my foot out quick enough. Never happened again, have come close though.

I guess it is also how I ride. When I ride, I do mostly for exercise. Thus, I’m mostly in PAS 1 on the flats to maintain 10-15 mph. If I had an eBike before I retired, and rode to work, no doubt I would be using the throttle.

 

[Unicorn]

...Falling?! They are adjustable you know... ...When I ride, I do mostly for exercise.... ...no doubt I would be using the throttle.

Yeah, I know, hitting soft sand would always stall me some, and my friends would watch me slowly tip over, and I wasn't even getting high then. It was more a brain software issue than hardware. I ride for fun and have sex for exercise; it works for me. I'm on and off the throttle constantly, even while pedaling. Mounting a Giant Green Button allows me to cut all power from the motor while pedaling. After learning how and when to use it most advantageously, it extended my range by over 15% without decreasing my riding speed. The BBSHD is the best mid-drive I have seen or ridden. You might want to buy a backup and a few repair parts. BaFang is supposedly discontinuing the entire BBSXX line.

Stay safe.

 

[Chuy]

A note to self - I rode my ebike today for the first time in almost two months due to consecutive house remodeling projects. It was a good time to set a bench mark for riding up Lake Jennings hill - it is .9 miles long, starts right away with 6% grade, has a 9% section just past the middle, and the last third is 7%. I was in PAS1 all the way. Chainring is 42T and I was on 2nd cassette cog, 36T, all the way up. Unfortunately, I did not time the ascent but I kept a steady speed of 5.5 mph most of the way. My PAS1 is set to 113 watts max output but every time I looked down, I never saw it past 91 watts. I warmed up for 5 miles before tackling the climb but felt in good shape despite two months of biking inactivity.

 

[Chuy]

... You might want to buy a backup and a few repair parts. BaFang is supposedly discontinuing the entire BBSXX line…

Yeah, that’s a bummer. However, I think it was johnnynerdout who took apart a new canbus BBS02 motor. He didnt take any measurements but, to him, the bolt pattern and the controller connectors all look the same. It is his professional opinion that you can probably swap in an uart controller and slide it right into your current setup. The good thing is I expect many years of service from my 2024 BBSHD. By the time it needs replacing, the dust will have settle with the new canbus units, and I should have options.