Himo Compatible rear wheel replacement.

Kagehik

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5:28 PM
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Apr 13, 2023
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Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I have a Himo Z20 that I got as a kick started years back and as of last winter started using as transportation to and from work. Other than some flats, and one battery replacement I have had almost zero problems with it. Then.. a few weeks back I get jittering when on what, for here, was a relatively steep section of the way home (enough that I doubt, given I use high mode and full throttle at that point, I could peddle up it - though, bikers in better shape probably could). It was like it was stalling, then reengaging, then stalling again. This disappeared for a while, then day before yesterday, at a less steep section, it started to make kind of grindy/electrical noises, until I could get it up to around 10MPH, then it evens out and disappears.

Needless to say... I think the motor is going bad. lol

The problem is that I am in the US, and the literal only places I have found that you can get parts for this thing are a) England, and they don't have a shipping warehouse, or b) via places like AliExpress, and the later charges almost as much in shipping as the cost of a new motor, never mind entire assembled wheel. The LCD display is a model that is not found on anything sold locally, and the guys at the local shop just flat out stated, "We have nothing compatible with anything on this bike." Know that electronics don't magically not work, if in the same specification range, just because they are not "identical", this probably means simply that they have no idea how to find a 250W 36V motor, which has a compatible pin connector. There may be some with more sensors... maybe, or the other manufacturers used a different connector design, but.. in principle this is a "wiring" incompatibility, not a freaking, "It won't work at all.", type problem.

So.. Here is where I am at.. I can spend $108 + more than $200 shipping from AilExpress, to get a motor than the bike shop just flat out said, "We will not build a wheel for you!", or buy a full, original, wheel, via AliExpress for something like $800+, or I have to find something "compatible", with either and adapter or the same connector, which I can pay a bloody lot less for via some place like Amazon. Well.. I could buy one with a completely different connector, strip the wires, then try to match those up to a clipped off connector from the original, but I use this to get too and from work. I can't afford to screw that up. lol

So.. ultimate question is - does anyone know of any full direct drive wheels in the right specs, with pin compatibility to the thing on this bike?

Oh, wheel size is 20 inches, with a 2.175 inch tire. I don't think something as big as a 3 inch will fit, but.. there is some space, just, not sure if its enough for that. Maybe a 2.5 inch could... Best scenario I find a completely assembled, not part of some incompatible kit, rear tire, which will fit this thing. Second best I have to deal with a market that isn't always trustworthy, and over pay on shipping. Worst case I find a motor which can work, and then have to find someone that can build the thing into a working wheel for me (hopefully for free). Last, and even more annoying option is - buy one of the much larger, local, ebikes, all of which seem to be from the same manufacturer, and all ranging in price from $1,800 to $2,200+.

Needless to say.. I would much prefer the, "Heh! This motor and wheel is sold at X, and uses the same connector."

I don't have high hopes.... But.. Any help anyone might have one this.
 
Decided it was overall just easier to buy a "conversion kit" and update the whole mess on the bike. Bloody local bike shop flat out told me that without a, "complete wheel", which they would be totally happy to install for me (like this is rocket science and I would pay them for in the first place), they wouldn't, "build me one", using a replacement motor (which given all the complications of spoke adjustments for alignment, etc. is rocket science to me. lol) At least this way everything on it will be up to date, have a bit up an upgrade on the battery, and using universal wiring (instead of the out of date stuff it had on it), so next time I won't have people telling me they can't get bloody parts. Still.. frustrating.

Only wish the kit didn't come with the bog simplest LCD panel - which doesn't include settings for recharging when not under power, or additional speed settings, but.. I presume that, given this is an option on some other versions I looked it, those can just be replaced with a better one down the road, without changing out anything else?
 
I know I am a little late,I have found a 20" kit on Ali Express, magwheel,350 watt power for around $300,I thought I would never like the mag wheels till got a bike with them, for a little more you can get the front wheel as well( you never have to tinker with the spokes,I am going to put a mag wheel on the front of my new 750 watt 36 volt build.Just be careful of the brake compatibility,I had a hard time getting disc brake 20" spoke wheels finally got them from Australia.You have the frame you can basically build anything you want.(y)
 
The battery is one item that is the easiest to transfer to a new kit. As long as the controller can handle the voltage, you are good to go.

Motor, controller, display, need to be at least somewhat matched.
 
Yes!, it makes it a lot easier on the novice,I have given away builds simply because I got weary of messing with them.
 
If you haven't done anything yet you might be able to fix the original wheel, I got a complete Himo Z20 at the local recycling center with charger & battery removal key - the motor wheel was seized & when I took of the cluster \motor cap the gap between the rotor & magnets was filled with rusty looking "dirt" that I suspect is the remnants of the rare earth magnets.
 
I forgot to say you can try cleaning out the "dirt" & than using something like nail polish or varnish to seal the magnets if they've lost the protective covering, the bike possibly won't be as fast or strong after cleaning out the debris. Also inject grease into the axles cable hole & grease the caps seat to prevent water getting into the motor since there's no protection for the bare steel of the rotor & the soldering on the motor circuit board. You also could try spraying the motors interior with WD 40 to provide a little bit more protection.
 

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