Battery base, controller

[R4yD8R]

I have a conversion kit on an older mtb and I think I've just blown a second controller. Riding along fine, hit a good jarring bump and BAM, nothing. No readout on the display, no power, no nothing. It's a Yose Power 48 volt 13 aH 500 watt rear hub/wheel kit. I have already had the charger replaced, the controller/base and display and the entire rear wheel/hub which required me to return everything besides the battery and key and after they sent me the new kit they said there was no more warranty, as expected. I've replaced everything besides the battery itself.

I'm hesitant to buy another base/controller from them because of how easily they fail but I've been looking around for a different one and I can't find any for a Hailong 4 pin battery with a controller built in. They all only have a 2 wire (red and black) power connector coming out of the case. Mine from Yose Power has 3 wire leads coming out. 1 goes to the motor, one to the controls up front, display, throttle control, and brake lever cutoffs, and the 3rd is for the PA sensor at the bottom bracket. I'm confused as to what I need to get my power motor back. I'm assuming I need a separate controller that the wires from the new base will connect to but I can't find one with the "Julien" ( I think, or something like that) connectors that will direct connect to my bike components...

What do I do? I can solder and do have a slodering station but I'm not very experienced with it. I also have a multi meter/tester but same thing, not my forte...

 

[fabbrisd]

Frankly what you purcahsed is not rated for reliability. If Amazon has the same kit - order a new one in - out your old parrts in the packaging - process a Amazon return saying the vendor shipped a used set - and return for credit.

 

[Hoggdoc]

Frankly what you purcahsed is not rated for reliability. If Amazon has the same kit - order a new one in - out your old parrts in the packaging - process a Amazon return saying the vendor shipped a used set - and return for credit.

Come on that's fraud don't encourage anyone on forum to do something like. I'm watching you.

 

[fabbrisd]

I'll own my Bad Attitude toward Low Ball Import Kit Suppliers who market their Kit's in volume thru Amazon/eBay/Etsy/where ever - in this case with a "18 month Consumer Warranty - without adequate support - and per the OP won't honor a 2nd in-warranty repair/replacement - they couldn't care less.

Yes - situations like this one - I get pissed. The OP is a nice guy - and aLow Ball company is our eBike space - is ONLY concerned about how many morew boxes they will ship and bill tmrw - and will say anything and everything they want when they advertise/market their product - then ALWAYS frack theeBike customer who already bought - frack me - I say frack them.

 

[R4yD8R]

I'm not trying to ruffle any feathers or cause any trouble, i just want my kit to work. I knew it was cheap going in but the reason I'm on a bike to begin with is because of the cheap car I got.

I bought a Nissan Rogue instead of coughing up the extra cash for a Toyota RAV-4 and the cvt went in the Rogue just past the warranty period expired and I can't afford the $4000+ price tag for one with a warranty and I refuse to put a used one in because I'd rather not have to do this again with the failure rate on these things.

I wasn't expecting things to take so long with the car but overtime at work has been stopped unless absolutely necessary and there's 10 guys that will get it before I do based on seniority so I have no extra income and it's almost impossible to get any side work without a vehicle.

But it is what it is so for now I have to find a way to get my bike motor working because pedaling only sucks. I've put my non motorized rear wheel back on because pedaling an ebike that's not working sucks even more.

I ordered another base/controller combo @ $50 from Yose for now but it's coming from China so it's almost 2 weeks out. I have researched other controllers that aren't integrated into the base and am going to get one for when the one that's coming goes out. I've found a few options which have the wiring harness I need but I've been reading that they have communication error issues so I'm trying to figure out a workaround for that. They range from around $35 up to $100 or more but if they are more durable and will hold up to some rough riding I'm OK with getting one.

I have found the fault with the ones that come with the kit. The 2 power wires come off the pcb very close to the exit hole and they are situated between the aluminum base and the plastic cover of the controller base and they touch a part of the aluminum that has an edge so after riding for a while the casing wears off the red and black wires and as soon as it's worn through both wires enough for them to both touch the aluminum at the same time there's a short which fries the board. There's no fuse or other protection to protect the circuits. I'm not sure what exactly on the board gets fried but I guess it don't matter because they pour some type of epoxy resin into the housing that basically submerges the entire pcb so it's basically non serviceable anyway because it pretty much is destroyed if you remove it from the case.