Bafang lights with Ebikeling controller

Kagehik

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Apr 13, 2023
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Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I recently had to do a near total replacement of parts on my Himo Z20. Basically, something about even the wire harness which splits out to the handle bar controls was screwy and didn't work tlwith the new motor.

I have, up to this point,been using a rear turn signal and light that is rechargeable, uses a really squirrely method of attachment and has a remote control. I don't like it. What I would prefer is something like the light kit I spotted on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Lights-BAFANG-Electric-Turning/dp/B0BVRGQXR8

Or similar design, which will simply be on when my headlight is, but given the problem I had using the wiring that had a "split off" for lights on the original parts the bike came with I am reluctant to buy it, then find out that I will just end up with another E10 communication error when trying to hook it up.

Anyone have any experience with an Ebikeling controller (is a 500w one, 48v I think it was) and one of these Bafang light kits? Will they work together? The Ebikeling company themselves Basically said - "we don't know if any are or not..."
 
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Kin d of gave up on getting an answer and have been looking into how complicated it would be to wire something up myself. Imho, they should just add a few extra bucks to the cost of controllers and include wires for a set of handle switches and light power wires. As it is the controllers do two contradictory things - 1) they provide a way to turn on a headlamp, if supported correctly, using the "power mode up" button, which I find a bit problematic in that it also steps up the mode, even if you don't want it to, and 2) it already uses a signal interrupt on both brake controls to cut the motor power, so there is already a way for it to output power to a break light if you have one. As it is, to support turn signals, and a break light, you need to both get power, without exceeding the amp limit of the existing wiring, for the extra lights, and add detection of the signal loss on one, or both, brakes, without accidentally causing a voltage drop that will cause the controller to cut your motor power. Oh, and you need a signal driver for the flashers, and a set of relays/triacs to turn on the power to the turn signals, when needed.

I see no reason, other than bad engineering, or lights being a literal after thought, why it makes more sense to have extra electronics jury rigged into the bike wiring, when at least two of these functions are already used by the bloody controller itself.

Also.. ironically the people I got my new controller from supply an extra two pin output "for" lights, but it doesn't respond to their own inbuilt controller functionality to turn on and off said lights... The display still shows thst the controller knows what is supposed to be going on, showing a light symbol, or not, based on if it thinks they are active, but it doesn't control output on that extra connector via that function.

In any case.. based on voltages, how the controls work, etc., it's a mini nightmare, at least for me, to contemplate how you would even build s controller for a full set of lights on one of these, if the existing kits won't work. So.. why the f not include connectors for all of it, and have said control function in the bloody main control board in the first place. Makes no sense to me.
 
Easier to just get a power bank device to power lights and or phone and other things while riding.
They are pretty cheap so get 3 ;)
 
Hmm. In theory. But it adds on more thing that needs a charger (or has to be plugged into the USB port on the battety) and doesn't solve the issue of things like brake lights. Still, it's an idea.
 
Hmm. In theory. But it adds on more thing that needs a charger (or has to be plugged into the USB port on the battety) and doesn't solve the issue of things like brake lights. Still, it's an idea.
I use a 12 volt dc to dc converter for all my led lights (headlight, running lights, brake, and turn signals. I stay away from the system light from the controller. Just get a XT60 Y adapter and plug in the 48V from the battery to the converter. Run all lights from that. I use a motorcycle 12v horn so use a 10 amp converter. I keep a small bell for the trails and really blast while on public roads. You can purchase turn signal lights with waterfall signals and running lights cheap. Tail/brake as well. I use terminal blocks to connect front to rear and to/from the converter. Everything is available on Amazon. What do you think?
 
I recently had to do a near total replacement of parts on my Himo Z20. Basically, something about even the wire harness which splits out to the handle bar controls was screwy and didn't work tlwith the new motor.

I have, up to this point,been using a rear turn signal and light that is rechargeable, uses a really squirrely method of attachment and has a remote control. I don't like it. What I would prefer is something like the light kit I spotted on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Lights-BAFANG-Electric-Turning/dp/B0BVRGQXR8

Or similar design, which will simply be on when my headlight is, but given the problem I had using the wiring that had a "split off" for lights on the original parts the bike came with I am reluctant to buy it, then find out that I will just end up with another E10 communication error when trying to hook it up.

Anyone have any experience with an Ebikeling controller (is a 500w one, 48v I think it was) and one of these Bafang light kits? Will they work together? The Ebikeling company themselves Basically said - "we don't know if any are or not..."
Have a look at LEZYNE lights - they do two sets of lights that can be hard-wired to your battery - one set is for 6v-12v and the other I think is for 12v - 60v.. I have the e-bike 1000 Micro-Drive 6v-12v and it works perfectly, straight off the two dedicated wires from my motor.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Will take a look. Was almost tempted to try to rig some lights from a motorcycle, but the amp requirement, compared to the size of the wires supplying them was worrying.
 
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