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Invest in Maximum Life and Extended Performan for the most expensive component of your eBike -

 
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For my BBSHD build, I got a DM03 display to go with it. However, I soon upgraded to the Eggrider V2 display. They look very similar, as does the SW102, but they are all different.
The SW102 and the ERv2 are identical displays with different firmware inside. They are made by a common manufacturer. Want to see a third version? Check out the KT-LCD4. I bought one, then two more to replace all of my KT displays. Unlike the big displays these only cost between $25 and $35 depending on whether you want to wait for one on AliExpress or get it tomorrow on Amazon. Exactly the same casing but KT specified a change that everyone should have gone for. A backlit LCD display that is visible in the brightest sunlight and the darkest night. The OLED displays of the DM03 and the ERv2 (I have both) can't hold a candle to this.

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I tried the Hangzhou Velofox DM03 which advertises as an upgrade to the SW102, supporting 9 levels of PAS. However I had two separate DM03's wig out on me with PAS set to 9 and both had to be set down to 5 levels to keep working right (each functioned properly for about a week and then both went haywire in the same way). This was my 2wd Bullitt when I was using the DM03 on the left and the LCD4 on the right. WAY cleaner handlebar setup and I have changed over all the bikes I ride regularly to use these minimalist displays.
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But with the DM03 being almost invisible in bright sunlight, and incapable of supporting the advertised 9 levels of PAS (I did side by side tests with an 860C and it was definitely a problem in the displays, which were manufactured several months apart and had different version numbers on their labels) I tried out the cheapest, smallest, most minimalist display on the market. It too is OLED but its display is so large (big speed numbers only) you can see it at noon on a sunny day. The Jiande Wuxing DZ40 that costs a whole $29.97. Here is the same bike with the DM04 replaced with it. I switched sides on the LCD4 because the DZ40 gives me more room to fully clear the shifters.
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The DZ40 is the best BBSHD display for me. Before I was married to the 860C because it is brightest in sunlight could show amps and watt output in real time, but once you get a handle on that behavior, its just clutter. All I care about is the numeric voltage the LCD4 gives me, and - out of curiosity only - the speed the DZ40 shows.

I've had sort of an epiphany when it comes to displays and what is actually preferable. In particular learning that 5 levels of PAS is better than 9. At some point soon I'm doing an article comparing displays. The BN136 is another little display I put on my Apostate emtb, and it seems to be a great compromise between tiny and legible. Bigger than the little ones above but still less than half the size of the standard ones. Even smaller than the 500C.
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Invest in Maximum Life and Extended Performan for the most expensive component of your eBike -
Well, if you want to advertise the Satiator as a charger (as opposed to sticking to the thread's intended purpose of telling people what we have bought and why), I'll point out you can get the same quality of component, with a less-fancy user interface, keep the micro-adjustability and spend 1/3 of what a Satiator costs. Since this thread is about buying things, complete links to everything needed - along with a tutorial on every step needed to get a finished product - is below.


Strictly speaking a Satiator is one of these things with a fancier case, a graphic display built inside and firmware to store profiles. Otherwise under the hood they are the same animal.
 
Well, if you want to advertise the Satiator as a charger (as opposed to sticking to the thread's intended purpose of telling people what we have bought and why), I'll point out you can get the same quality of component, with a less-fancy user interface, keep the micro-adjustability and spend 1/3 of what a Satiator costs. Since this thread is about buying things, complete links to everything needed - along with a tutorial on every step needed to get a finished product - is below.


Strictly speaking a Satiator is one of these things with a fancier case, a graphic display built inside and firmware to store profiles. Otherwise under the hood they are the same animal.

What can you tell me about the DPC18 display, just your own opinions and what you have experienced.
Thinking about switching from ERv2 to the dpc18
 
What can you tell me about the DPC18 display, just your own opinions and what you have experienced.
Thinking about switching from ERv2 to the dpc18
The CURRENT DPC18 is limited to 5 levels of PAS. This may or may not matter to you. My DPC18's have 9 levels but they are several years old.

I replaced my DPC18's (I think I had two of them) with Luna 860C's because the 860C was brighter in full sunlight, and fully visible. Plus it has a setting that lets you display real time amps and watts. Also the Luna versions worked properly with 52v batteries.

The knock I would put against the DPC 18 is its dimness in broad daylight. Bear in mind I was riding at the time in Central California where cloudless days with blistering sun was common. If you live say in the UK where the sun never shines then that weakness would probably be minor.
 
The CURRENT DPC18 is limited to 5 levels of PAS. This may or may not matter to you. My DPC18's have 9 levels but they are several years old.

I replaced my DPC18's (I think I had two of them) with Luna 860C's because the 860C was brighter in full sunlight, and fully visible. Plus it has a setting that lets you display real time amps and watts. Also the Luna versions worked properly with 52v batteries.

The knock I would put against the DPC 18 is its dimness in broad daylight. Bear in mind I was riding at the time in Central California where cloudless days with blistering sun was common. If you live say in the UK where the sun never shines then that weakness would probably be minor.
East coast VA here.

ok, thanks M@ :)

It's a luna BBSHD, so i'll look into somethin from luna.

Thanks,

HP :cool:
 
I just got one of these handlebar clamp water bottle holders and a 32oz bottle to go with it. The holder has a bomber solid aluminum clamp with grippy rubber on the clamp surface. It holds the 32oz hydroflask knockoff bottle perfectly!

It works great, the holder is really stiff so it's easy to put the bottle in and out while riding but I always stop and just flip up the straw without pulling it out.
 

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This ebike air compressor at the recommendation of m@robertson. from his blog.


Works great! It now says on the sticker 48-72V I soldered on an XT90 plug since my bikes all have XT90s connectors. I also replaced the air chuck with a better quality brass chuck.

Thanks m@!
 

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The SW102 and the ERv2 are identical displays with different firmware inside. They are made by a common manufacturer. Want to see a third version? Check out the KT-LCD4.
That KT does look purdy.

I forgot to mention two other neat features of the EggRider. It can hold two profiles for both the display and the motor, and it has an app for your phone to be used as a display.
 
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SR Suntour SP12 NCX Suspension Seatpost with Cover (30.9mm x 350mm), Size 30.9
SR Suntour SP12 NCX Suspension Seatpost with Cover (30.9mm x 350mm), Size 30.9
Hard NCX Seat Post Spring (PKE100-20)
Hard NCX Seat Post Spring (PKE100-20)
Bought this seat post and spring for my hardtail cruiser post size to match bike without shims When I took it apart found a 1" tall sleeve around spring in the middle. I assume to stop side to side movement as the springs are 3/4" OD sleeve increases OD to just a little over 1"
Manufacture has part number heavy red spring with sleeve in the manual they do not sell it nobody does. So cut shrink wrap off both springs slid nylon spacer off old onto new bought a piece 1"X3" shrink wrap hit it with hair dryer reinstalled preload 15 turns =15mm
This greatly improved my comfort does not bottom or top out takes all potholes rough road in stride seat travels 4" to 5" inner post only moves about 1"
NOTE If you are short or If you don't have at least 5" seat post exposed at your comfortable seat height this may not be for you
 
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This ebike air compressor at the recommendation of m@robertson. from his blog.

Thanks m@!
You bet! I have gone back to these after migrating to self-contained battery-powered compressors that had their own internal 18650's. The fancier self-contained units work fine until you factor in the battery packs have to last literally for years, sitting in the bike tool bag unused. I tried exercising them and topping them up every few months but when the second one's internal batteries failed, I realized they are not a long-term reliable solution.

These corded compressors that connect directly to your existing pack are the way to go. Thankfully I just shelved them rather than giving the things away so I was able to put them right back on the bikes again.
 
You bet! I have gone back to these after migrating to self-contained battery-powered compressors that had their own internal 18650's. The fancier self-contained units work fine until you factor in the battery packs have to last literally for years, sitting in the bike tool bag unused. I tried exercising them and topping them up every few months but when the second one's internal batteries failed, I realized they are not a long-term reliable solution.

These corded compressors that connect directly to your existing pack are the way to go. Thankfully I just shelved them rather than giving the things away so I was able to put them right back on the bikes again.
Yeah, they sure get the job done, and it makes sense to use the giant battery that you already have, and is maintained. I'll probably only carry it with the fat tire bike as I have a nice hand pump that's not bad with 26 x 2.35 tires but I don't know I have a pretty good size trunk bag on the Felt and it's pretty nice to just let the little compressor do the work.

I was thinking for people who have a frame integrated battery they could just connect to their charge port. I checked my shark battery and the charge port has current when the battery is turned on and it has a common RCA.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Interesting pump. Have you tried it yet?

I have that cell phone mount. It works nicely, but needs to be clamped pretty hard onto the handlebar for it not to rotate when you push your phone down into it.
Yep, I ordered one the other day. I did notice how it has multiple thin rubber shims to adjust to your handlebar size. That style of shim is known for wanting to move. I suppose you could use rubber contact cement between each shim to give it a more firm hold.
 
Only tested the pump prior to mounting it. Hoping to use it infrequently.
The phone mount is model BP 07. No shims. Very sturdy clamping and tightening mechanism.
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I ordered a few sundry items on Amazon today. The one I'm most excited about is this Lumos helmet:
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I've never heard of them as a helmet company in the company of Giro or Bontrager, but they get good reviews across the board and it is actually CERTIFIED as an eBike helmet. I probably should have gone for a downhill MTB helmet without lights instead, but I really like the visor on this. It means I can wear prescription glasses underneath it, instead if everyting further than 3' being fuzzy, like it is for me now.

I also ordered another bag of FlatOut:
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...a couple of inner tubes for my folding eBikes:
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...and a book to try to help me get better at wrenching on my bikes:
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As an update, the heavy-duty FoldyLock I ordered earlier is mounted up now and it is certainly a higher class lock than the Lectric-branded one that is a re-branded Chinese one that came with my XP Lite. It's thicker and the exposed ends of the rivets are rounded, to make it harder to attack with a drill. It also weighs twice as much, but that's not such an issue on an eBike, right?
 
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