Longest e bike company

Glen

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Which e bike company has been around the longest? And are they reliable to get parts for a bike let's say in five years!
 
Stealth Electric Bikes started selling eBikes in 2008. I bought one in 2013. They're still in business today.

 
The ebike industry is hard for me to follow. So many manufacturers out there and every day it seems I discover one that I never heard of. This reminds me of the early days of motorcycle manufacturers. Instead of electric motors they were putting internal combustion motors on bicycles. Harley Davidson comes to mind first as far as American motorcycles but there were many early competitors that came and went. It was a cottage industry with many being built in garages or small shacks instead of factories. These are the "wild west" days of ebike manufacturing and time will tell which manufacturers will make it long term.
 
I hate to say it, but probably the Chinese mega-bike-factories will be one of the last ones standing.
On the plus side they tend to use parts that are pretty consistent, like Hailong batteries and Bafang motors.
Their product lines are sold under various names like Philodo, Zeeger, SMLRO, Lankeleisi, Keteles, etc.

That manufacturer has cut the legs out from underneath of many other manufacturers by having such a low price point.

 
Stealth Electric Bikes started selling eBikes in 2008. I bought one in 2013. They're still in business today.

Yep don't even want to know what these bikes cost.
 
One reason I choose a Trek rather than some strange - but better - brands from what was available here, is that IMO it is better to buy from someone with a large volume of sales in ebike AND bikes or another connected market. Having a very large and extended market for other products, it is unlikely that an industry crisis would lead to bankruptcy or that spare parts would disappear.

And I wrote "unlikely" not "impossible".

 
An integral part of the buying decision for some is to buy a bike with the fewest (or zero) proprietary parts. Bicycles are bicycles for the most part and brakes, hubs, chains, cassettes etc. are all interchangeable. If you take the time to learn what it is you are looking at, the same goes for controller, motor and battery. But you have to be willing to work on the bike just like you would changing a chain or worn cassette.

Absent that, give the decision over to whoever it is you want to write the check out to. Pay dealership level prices and hope for the best when something goes bad, as it'll cost you.
 
An integral part of the buying decision for some is to buy a bike with the fewest (or zero) proprietary parts. Bicycles are bicycles for the most part and brakes, hubs, chains, cassettes etc. are all interchangeable. If you take the time to learn what it is you are looking at, the same goes for controller, motor and battery. But you have to be willing to work on the bike just like you would changing a chain or worn cassette.

Absent that, give the decision over to whoever it is you want to write the check out to. Pay dealership level prices and hope for the best when something goes bad, as it'll cost you.
yep,I currently have an ESPIN-NERO that committed stator suicide( plus a few other things I DIDNT LIKE) finally got it overhauled and went non propritery quite a struggle, believe me just buy another low end ebike,kinda liked the Nero frame for some reason,previous owner is going to get it back for some reason he liked the bike as well
 
Yamaha has been working on e-bikes for a long time. I chose Yamaha because they are not likely to disappear any time soon. The 3 year warranty was a plus and the Cross Core was what I wanted because it was a good bare bones bike that I could customize to my desired specs. https://global.yamaha-motor.com/business/e-bike-systems/30th/
hi - looking to buy a yamaha crosscore rc , I've been mostly a road bike for over 50yrs, until 5 yrs back used to long rides, 100 mi but lots of arthritis and age (72) has slowed me . The crosscore rc checks a lot of boxes for me - weight, torque sensor, decent components, etc. One queation I have is regards sizing - the yamaha sizing chart shows either a medium or large , I'm 5'11" so I'm wondering what frame size you chose and any other comments you might make regards the rc, thanks.
 
hi - looking to buy a yamaha crosscore rc , I've been mostly a road bike for over 50yrs, until 5 yrs back used to long rides, 100 mi but lots of arthritis and age (72) has slowed me . The crosscore rc checks a lot of boxes for me - weight, torque sensor, decent components, etc. One queation I have is regards sizing - the yamaha sizing chart shows either a medium or large , I'm 5'11" so I'm wondering what frame size you chose and any other comments you might make regards the rc, thanks.
My Cross Core is the rigid, class 1 version. I am an old roadie and mountain biker, (I still ride my road bike). I was 5’ 10” before a motorcycle accident shortened my left leg by 30mm and compressed my spine. I ride a medium. I think that you would want a medium as well.

The class 1 seems to have more in common with a non-electric bike. I felt that at 43 pounds it was a good platform to customize. My drivetrain is now a Shimano SLX 1x11, brakes are XT hydraulic, tires are Maxxis 40mm Receptor, stem is a Kinekt suspension stem, bars are Salsa Deluxe Bend and seat post is a Redshift, (suspension).

I do my own work and shop around, so my bike is now a capable flat bar gravel bike and weigh 40 pounds and cost less than the Cross Core RC.

If I were to buy a Cross Core RC, (and this is just my obsessive behavior), I know that I would change out the saddle, seatpost, tires and drivetrain. I would probably change the fork and brakes as well. These companies are trying to keep their cost down, but I don’t like to compromise on brakes and those Suntour forks are heavy and not the best. You could probably drop a good four pounds and have a more useful bike.

I think that the theory is that you don’t need the same range of gears as a non-electric bike because you have the assist, but I typically only use eco and eco+, so I still need the gears, (I live in the Connecticut River Valley of New Hampshire and we have lots of hills ranging from eight to twenty four percent grade). I can also ride our hilly terrain averaging about 18 mph and still get more than 70 miles on a charge.

If you plan to stay mostly on pavement and your terrain isn’t overly hilly or rough, then the Cross Core RC may be a good fit as is. It’s an attractive bike, lighter and better equipped than most too and has a good warranty.
 

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One queation I have is regards sizing - the yamaha sizing chart shows either a medium or large , I'm 5'11" so I'm wondering ...
I haven't looked at the Yamaha site for this bike but I would *hope* they follow the usual custom of giving you frame specs that include standover and top tube length, among other things, so you can pretty much make your own fitment decision. Beyond that I take it almost as a given I'll have to redo the stem length unless I get lucky on a bike. And maybe a seatpost change to either give or take away a setback. I build my own and half the time I still get reach to the bars wrong before I actually go ride the thing and *know* what feels right.

I think that the theory is that you don’t need the same range of gears as a non-electric bike because you have the assist, but I typically only use eco and eco+, so I still need the gears
This x100. Its not so much the level of assist you use but your style of riding. The riders who say they don't need the gears are either throttling or not so much into riding technique. For them, they're right they don't need as many gears because the motor can inhabit much wider ranges. But if you are a cyclist and the right cadence and effort level on a given slope is everything, then you need ... all the gears. Just like before.
 
I haven't looked at the Yamaha site for this bike but I would *hope* they follow the usual custom of giving you frame specs that include standover and top tube length, among other things, so you can pretty much make your own fitment decision. Beyond that I take it almost as a given I'll have to redo the stem length unless I get lucky on a bike. And maybe a seatpost change to either give or take away a setback. I build my own and half the time I still get reach to the bars wrong before I actually go ride the thing and *know* what feels right.


This x100. Its not so much the level of assist you use but your style of riding. The riders who say they don't need the gears are either throttling or not so much into riding technique. For them, they're right they don't need as many gears because the motor can inhabit much wider ranges. But if you are a cyclist and the right cadence and effort level on a given slope is everything, then you need ... all the gears. Just like before.
agree - wife's marin sausalito is class 2 bike with 11 gears - overkill for her as she won't be doing steep hills. When we 1st rode together a few weeks back she was falling behind me on my leg powered fuji even with her bike in the highest assist level, when I investigated the 2 highest gears weren't shifting, so I complained to Jenson USA that the bike wasn't setup properly, the wheel balance was poor as well and they tout that they check every bike 2x before shipping, the result was they gave me a $50 gift certificate.
Now I'd buy a Marin Sausalito like hers if one was available in my size as for the price paid it's a good value and light at 44 lbs. For me at present I'm not interested in the commuter type bike with their upright riding position as I can't see how you would effectively pedal from an upright position, I want an e bike so I can go on longer rides but rely mainly on pedal power, if I get tired or a headwind comes up then I can rely more on power assist. Bike sales are somewhat in the toilet so I'm looking for a decent deal, amazed at how many people are making e bikes.
 
I see KBO just reduced the price of the Breeze to $999. That price is hard to beat for what you get. I bought one a little over ten months ago for $1100 and if I had to do it over I'd buy the same one.
 
I helped someone on here a few months ago to pick a conversion bike from a short list and ended up changing his list a little and recommended a Marin Pine Mountain 1. The donor motor was a BBSHD and after some back/forth where the assembling bike shop needed some schooling on proper motor installation, it was a great success for him. The PM1 uses an 11s 1x drivetrain that is perfect for a mid drive.

A few months later I went to the Sea Otter Classic (I live nearby so it was a nice bike ride to Laguna Seca for the day) I saw the PM in person at the Marin booth and it really is a beauty. Butted and reinforced chromoly tubes which is the holy grail for ebike frames. Bosses everywhere. 29x2.6 so its a juggernaut that is also comfortable for city street commutes, and a quality fork for comfort again. At age 61 my road bike days are behind me (my road bike is on rollers for my tv time but thats it).

Given the bikepocalypse that is going on now, plus the inherent risk of buying a bike with proprietary parts (the battery and motor in particular) I swear by doing my own motor conversions. My road bike was built in 1984 and to bring it back to life recently all I had to do was change the pedals to match modern cleats, and put new tires on. Forget about that with any ebike that rolls off of an assembly line.
 
Thanks for all the comments, after exhaustive searching the bike I will be buying is from Kona, the EL Kahuna, decently equipped and priced a bit above $2k , buying from a local shop which will provide lifetime service, I've always done all my work but ok with a shop servicing. I looked at an online retailer of returned and overstock bikes - started in Europe and now in the USA but found some of their published specs were misleading and after a few questions about weight and components via chat they wouldn't answer my questions so I wrote them a less than flattering review on trustpilot. Amazed at how many e bikes are available, sone just aren't that good for the price they are seeking.
 
Measured my height today and have shrunk from nearly 6' tall to 5' 10" , I know bikes vary in frame geometry but most sizing on mfg sites rates me as a tweener = either medium or large. I am leaning towards a medium though as my worn back is probably going to benefit for a more upright position that a smaller frame provides, my current flat bar road bike , Fuji Forza has a 21" seat post and is likely a large and I although comfortable I do ride it in a more bent over position which I can feel in my lower back after a long ride. Would love to hear from anyone my approx height as to what frame size they ride, another nice aspect of the EL Kahuna is that it's available in S, M, L and XL sizes.
 
The ebike industry is hard for me to follow. So many manufacturers out there and every day it seems I discover one that I never heard of. This reminds me of the early days of motorcycle manufacturers. Instead of electric motors they were putting internal combustion motors on bicycles. Harley Davidson comes to mind first as far as American motorcycles but there were many early competitors that came and went. It was a cottage industry with many being built in garages or small shacks instead of factories. These are the "wild west" days of ebike manufacturing and time will tell which manufacturers will make it long term.
Exactly what I was thinking. After the turn of the last century hundreds of early motorcycle manufacturers started up. 25 years later 95% of them were out of business. Right now the eBike business is still in the early period. Survival then, and now, will depend on a combination of 3 things. Performance, dependability, and esthetics. Right now with hundreds of manufacturers, price is king, but as the shake out occurs quality will be a much bigger factor. Prices will probably rise, but people will pay for quality.
 
Exactly what I was thinking. After the turn of the last century hundreds of early motorcycle manufacturers started up. 25 years later 95% of them were out of business. Right now the eBike business is still in the early period. Survival then, and now, will depend on a combination of 3 things. Performance, dependability, and esthetics. Right now with hundreds of manufacturers, price is king, but as the shake out occurs quality will be a much bigger factor. Prices will probably rise, but people will pay for quality.
Right, but I would add to those 3 factors the ability to support the typical ups and downs of a rapidly changing market, that is, having a much larger market to rely on, such as bicycles.

Companies like Trek or Specialized can share a lot of expenses and expertise from their other markets. This is not necessarily deciding if a company is going to survive or die (see Tesla for the Electric Vehicles market), but statistically is another important factor.
 
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