Is the old saying, you get what you pay for true in ebikes?

[Smaug]

Is a bike that sells for $3250 better than a bike that sells for $1600? case and point Specialized Como 4.o IGH vs Aventon Pace 500.3

For this example, I’d go Aventon. You’d have funds left to add the rack, fenders, Suntour NCX seat post, Topeak trunk bag for the rack and still have money left over for a couple day trips.

I love the looks of that Specialized, but I don’t think the IGH is going to hold up to the mid drive torque over time.

 

[pagheca]

Way too much analyzing just for a bike....if we were talking big ticket items like a home, a collectible car, a personal jet or helicopter then I can see going through all that trouble....not for a bike.....

I would rather say the opposite: this is an easy method to find a reliable, good item within your requirements (e.g. a folding bike is something different from a downhill one) without getting lost in a maze of opinions and data. And that was the original question in this thread.

Actually, the best price you can get for a technical item is considered one of the best ways to judge the quality of that item, especially if we do not have good technical knowledge or much experience in the field.

Others may be our technical knowledge, statistics, reviews, etc. However, reviews may be paid for, statistics may be biased or tricky to understand, etc. What I am saying is that if the weighted price range for some ebikes subset ranges, for instance, from 1 to 100, I would buy something that costs around 50, and avoid those costing less than 30 or more than 70 (unless is a collectible item).

My humble opinion.

 

[ElHegpah]

The very first suggested thread below this one, is an Aventon customer complaining that the battery for his Aventon Pace 500.2, WILL NOT WORK with the replacment battery for an Aventon Pace 500.3.

Don't know what he spent, but the life cycle of his purchase is now over. Was this a good value?

I am starting to look at my THIRD battery for my under-$750 ebike, with literally hundreds of inexpensive options to choose from.

If you can change a tire, tighten a screw, and use a zip-tie, you can choose the right donor bike, motor kit, and accessories to do the job you want done.

You do need to define that job, and determine what components you need to do that job. Not difficult at all.

Some bikes have radar, I use a $12.00 mirror. Some have locks and alarms costing hundreds of dollars, I made it unique and ugly. Some have heavy, power-robbing fat tires and full suspension, I padded the handlebars and got a cheap seat correctly sprung for my weight and sized for my ass. A $15 seatpost rack and a cargo box made out of duct tape, cardboard, couple screws and some thin wallboard, on or off in about one minute, carries my groceries or tools needed. Collapsible waterproof lid, hey it's deluxe.

I got reliable transport from A to B, light weight so I can lift it repeatedly, good speed and range on a bike geared so I can effectively pedal. Shifters are not great but that is OK as gearing is adequate and I have not shifted in several years now. Well over 20,000 miles. Over a decade of reliable transport, with health and environmental benefits, as well as reduced operating expenses.

All 7 of the LEDs on the display still work fine. Only problem in 10 years of daily use, the membrane over one of the two switches, went away. Stretched a piece of inner tube over it. It has yet to fail to get me where I need to go. Mainly because it was not intended to impress my friends and neighbors or be the life of the party, It was assembled with a particular job to do and specific conditions to deal with. It is a tool, that is all.

 

[Rambo_Of_PA]

Actually, the best price you can get for a technical item is considered one of the best ways to judge the quality of that item, especially if we do not have good technical knowledge or much experience in the field.

if a person lacks the technical skills and/or knowledge then how can relying on a chart be the best way to judge which product is the best?? Researching online through various groups dedicated to the product (such as this forum), recent articles on the subject, Youtube, and use by everyday users is the better way of narrowing down a purchase. As I stated earlier, we are no longer in an age in which information is limited. Naturally, everything should be taken with a grain of salt because as someone else stated in a previous post what one person likes on one particular bike may not be ideal for another.

 

[pagheca]

that's right. That's what I do as well. But sometime, is pretty difficult to distinguish the signal from the noise over the internet and over very opinionated people that is basing his conclusions on his own personal experience -- only.

 

[Hi Proof]

Is the old saying, you get what you pay for true in ebikes?​

No.
And any warranty from an EBike company, ANY, ain't worth the paper it is printed on.

I don’t agree with that statement. I have been watching the forums in regards specifically to the Lectric XP trike. I know they are not without issues including but not limited to shipping damage. In all cases that I have read about the manufacturer stood behind their product including a labor allowance if the trike was taken to a professional for repairs. I was so confident after seeing those reports that I ordered two. I’m sure this extends beyond Lectric to other manufacturers as well. I would say that before you make a purchase do your homework on the company and see how they respond to issues.

 

[Ulster]

Is a bike that sells for $3250 better than a bike that sells for $1600? case and point Specialized Como 4.o IGH vs Aventon Pace 500.3
I realize these are 2 different systems, but I'm just wondering is one really that much better than the other one? Can someone please shed some light on this subject matter. I'm just a bit perplexed by the wide range of prices for ebikes. So many choices, so many things to think about in buying a new ebike. Anyone else feel this way.

I have the Como 4 and the only complaint I have it was discounted about 6 months after I bought. I found it a treat to ride and the software covers every option you could want. it’s said you get what you pay for and at the current price I’d get it again. The gearing and belt drive top it off. It’s a bit like comparing a Porsche and a Ford they are both cars but that’s where the similarities end.

 

[JerryB]

Question.....what ebike would Dr Phil ride?

 

[ElHegpah]

My opinions are based, in part, on my own personal experience, that is true. However, they are also based on extensive research, such as reading not 2 or 3 but Hundreds of individual use cases, Hundreds of diagnostic and repair threads, and Hundreds of individual custom builds.

I realize most folks will not go to this effort, but it yields good results.

Starting point is to define what it is you actually want. Comfort? Speed? Distance? On or off-road, cargo, storage requirements, replacement parts availability, etc.

This approach does far better than just picking the one with the pretty colors, which is my best guess for what most people are using to pick their purchase. They are sure as hell NOT picking the bike that will do the job that they want done.

The simpler the system, the more reliable it will be.

 

[HillAversion]

If the question of “worth” turns on how well a bike accommodates your riding style, it helps to know how you want to ride and what you expect of the bike. A lot of riders who haven’t ridden a bike in years and who never rode an e-bike go online and blindly buy whatever looks good in their price range, without regard for weight, fit, function or performance. That’s a prescription for disappointment.

if the question of worth simply turns on reliability, it seems the vast majority of all but the very cheapest bikes do okay with casual use.

 

[blakeman62]

My opinions are based, in part, on my own personal experience, that is true. However, they are also based on extensive research, such as reading not 2 or 3 but Hundreds of individual use cases, Hundreds of diagnostic and repair threads, and Hundreds of individual custom builds.

I realize most folks will not go to this effort, but it yields good results.

Starting point is to define what it is you actually want. Comfort? Speed? Distance? On or off-road, cargo, storage requirements, replacement parts availability, etc.

This approach does far better than just picking the one with the pretty colors, which is my best guess for what most people are using to pick their purchase. They are sure as hell NOT picking the bike that will do the job that they want done.

The simpler the system, the more reliable it will be.

So which of the 2 I listed has the simpler system? just asking. Thank you for your response.

 

[neutron]

I've only ridden 3 different ebikes so my opinion is based on this limited experience. Two of the three were rental bikes and the third is one I bought. The rentals were big brand names, Trex and the other brand (can't remember the name, starts with a D and made in Europe). The Trex was about $2800 IIRC and the European bike was $2000. Both were not top of the line bikes. Low power, no throttle rental bikes. The bike I ended up with (KBO Breeze) was $1100 and is a way better bike with more features and more power. In my case it made no sense to go with the more expensive brands. I've got a little over 1200 miles on the KBO and am very pleased with this bike. If I had to spend 2-3k on an ebike, I probably wouldn't have bought one. I would not discourage anyone from buying a "cheap" bike online if that's all they can afford or want to spend on a bike. I have really enjoyed my "cheap" bike and expect to get a lot of miles out of it over the next few years. If you don't want to spend big bucks on a "high quality" bike, don't let it stop you from getting into the ebike world. Lots of good fun bikes out there for under $2000 and even under $1500.

Edit: Dost ebike rental

 

[Smaug]

So which of the 2 I listed has the simpler system? just asking. Thank you for your response.

The Aventon is simpler: hub motor vs. mid drive on the Specialized, external derailleur gears vs. internal geared hub.
The Specialized will be the stronger climber.

 

[ElHegpah]

I would not touch a Specialized ebike with a 10-foot Hungarian.

Proprietary parts all over it, support on par with average Chinese company, which means not much, Don't like mid-drives, and IGH likely not one of the two made which do not automatically void the warranty when paired with a mid-drive.

Just do a search here of folks with Specialized ebikes trying to get parts, service, or use replacement parts not from the company.

 

[Django]

You rarely get more than you pay for and you often get less than you pay for, so I am not sure if you get what you pay for.

I ride a lot and I often ride in remote areas where there is no cellphone coverage. Dependable, good quality equipment, priceless.

I purposely bought Yamaha’s lowest priced, most bare boned bike. I upgraded the brakes to Shimano XT, the stem and seat post are Redshift, the drivetrain is Shimano 11speed SLX, the saddle is Fizik, bars are Salsa, wheels are DT Swiss, tires are 40mm Maxxis Receptors and the pedals are Oozy Spank. I shopped around for components, so I have the bike as I wanted it with very good components for less than a stock Yamaha Wabash, and it is set up with much higher grade components and weighs three pounds less. I do all my own work and I like working on nearly anything mechanical, so I consider my labor irrelevant.

The stem, seat post, bars, pedals and tires would have been on my must change list regardless of the original non-suspended bike that I would have chosen, (I wanted a flat bar gravel bike). In the end I feel that I got what I paid for, and maybe a little more.

 

[Orcasprout]

This is an excellent thread!
I own my own shop where I repair and build custom eBikes.
Every day someone comes in with their extremely cheap eBike (~$600-800) that has fallen apart on them. They tried the customer service route and have discovered they are persona non grata. It is my opinion that anything below $1000 is probably not going to work for anybody beyond the most casual rider who doesn’t really use the equipment.

As some other posters have suggested, a conversion is an excellent way to create the best of both worlds. An inexpensive steel bike with good components is a great start. Picking and choosing your own set-up is liberating and you’re not locked into the proprietary replacement battery that will be out of stock in two years. It’s not too difficult to do and their are lots of helpers out there.

That said, if you decide to purchase a premade bike, I would follow the advice of some other posters and recommend that you go try as many bikes as you can. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and there are lots and lots of distractions that are not relevant to the actual riding experience. Personally, I would not purchase a fat tire or folding frame, those features are really only for a specific purpose (sand and snow or stowing the bike in a closet)
Good luck!

 

[pagheca]

I agree with what you say (politely and without assuming that everyone else is an idiot, as someone else does here).

There are a few different situations to be considered, though....
1) folding bike: very useful if you have to take transportation such as a subway or train while commuting - quite common
2) fat tires: presence of snow and mud around - pretty rare case, but it happened to me in the past
3) try many bikes: it was impossible for me since local stores are very rare and assistance with online ones is practically impossible (I live on a small island out of the EU common market). Moreover, if you are a newbie in a certain market, a test drive doesn't add very much to your understanding and may sometime just confuse yourself - extremely rare situation
4) make it yourself: not easy for many, especially in Europe and/or when you live in a rented apartment where space is limited. - very common.

Personally when I buy something I start by writing down a list of requirements, essentials and desired. Sometimes I add a "weight" depending on their importance. Then I look for something that will fit these requirements as much as possible. At that point I read everything I can on the subject and narrow it down to what is available in the market of where I live, readjusting the table of requirements. At that point, a few months later, I buy. And I only buy one product in that category. One cell phone. One computer. One car. An ebike.

I have rarely gone wrong (never, as far as I remember) in this way. I am hardly fooled by the sirens of the market, by the latest product released that boasts extraordinary and innovative features (actually a few minor adjustments), suspicious discounts or black Friday's offers.

 

[neutron]

This is an excellent thread!
I own my own shop where I repair and build custom eBikes.
Every day someone comes in with their extremely cheap eBike (~$600-800) that has fallen apart on them. They tried the customer service route and have discovered they are persona non grata. It is my opinion that anything below $1000 is probably not going to work for anybody beyond the most casual rider who doesn’t really use the equipment.

As some other posters have suggested, a conversion is an excellent way to create the best of both worlds. An inexpensive steel bike with good components is a great start. Picking and choosing your own set-up is liberating and you’re not locked into the proprietary replacement battery that will be out of stock in two years. It’s not too difficult to do and their are lots of helpers out there.

That said, if you decide to purchase a premade bike, I would follow the advice of some other posters and recommend that you go try as many bikes as you can. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and there are lots and lots of distractions that are not relevant to the actual riding experience. Personally, I would not purchase a fat tire or folding frame, those features are really only for a specific purpose (sand and snow or stowing the bike in a closet)
Good luck!

Orcasprout, I'm glad I made it over your $1000 cheap bike limit! Just barely at $1100 on sale from KBO. I know there are better quality bikes out there but for the money this thing has been fantastic. I've got about 1300 miles on it and no issues. I've enjoyed ebiking way more than I ever imagined I would. To your point about the really cheap bikes being for the very casual user, I agree. However, if that is all one can afford or want to spend, I say go for it! You may find that you really like riding an ebike and may want to upgrade in the future.

 

[Orcasprout]

I guess what I'm saying is don't buy the cheapest eBike out there. I agree with the title of the thread.

is all one can afford or want to spend

The cheap eBike actually costs more when repair and low quality parts are factored in. The initial cost is low, but with just one component failure and the labor to disassemble, research/shop, purchase, install, and test quickly add up (provided you can find a guy like me to repair in the first place).
The low price bikes also have low Ah batteries.

Neutron, I'm glad it's working out for you, yes it's possible to get a decent starter bike, I'm interested to see what your upgrade is gonna be. The experienced rider has a WHOLE new level of appreciation for sure.

a few different situations

Pagheca, yes you are right on your points.

 

[neutron]

I guess what I'm saying is don't buy the cheapest eBike out there. I agree with the title of the thread.


The cheap eBike actually costs more when repair and low quality parts are factored in. The initial cost is low, but with just one component failure and the labor to disassemble, research/shop, purchase, install, and test quickly add up (provided you can find a guy like me to repair in the first place).
The low price bikes also have low Ah batteries.

Neutron, I'm glad it's working out for you, yes it's possible to get a decent starter bike, I'm interested to see what your upgrade is gonna be. The experienced rider has a WHOLE new level of appreciation for sure.

Pagheca, yes you are right on your points.

My upgrades so far are a suspension seat post, hydraulic disc calipers, C9 seat, and handle bar riser. I think I would have to do all that on a more expensive bike other than maybe the calipers.