Hiland Rockshark - Controller flashes headlight indicator and stops engaging motor

[Hunter.r]

Title pretty much says it all. I have a hiland rockshark rear hub street bike style frame. I've gotten thousands of miles but now sometimes the motor will stop and the controller flashes.
Sometimes I can get it to go again but most of the time it makes a grinding noise while it tries to take off. Anybody know the problem here?

 

[ElHegpah]

First, if you can't be bothered to post a picture or a link, how hard do you expect others to work to solve your problem?

Next, examine carefully what wiring is affected, in any way, by putting weight on the seat and/or turning hard, and do you turn a particular direction? This should not have any effect unless there is a damaged wire or loose plug moved by these actions.

Is it more likely to take off if you get it rolling 3-5 mph before applying throttle?

When "the motor stops", do you mean the wheel comes to a dead halt and you fall off, or that the motor stops propelling the bike, and then as it rolls to a stop, do you get any grinding noises.

When "the controller flashes", do you mean all lights flash on the display, then go out, or all lights on the display continue to flash, if so for how long, is it not just one but maybe 3, or 5, and then they go out, or is it just one light or a small group of lights, and is this in fact on the display itself, or actually on the controller box?

Have you tried, after the "stop" and "flash", doing absolutely nothing for 2-3 minutes, disconnecting the controller from the battery by manually unplugging the wires, then plugging them back in and turning on, then GENTLY applying throttle, AFTER pedaling up to 3-5 mph? If so, what happens, if not do so at first opportunity.

Also, you have apparently had several such events, detail everything you do to the bike between the event and when it starts to work again.

Do you have a voltmeter and if so what readings directly from the battery have you obtained, if not, strongly advise you go get one, ideally with at
least two digits past the decimal point on the readout.

And, NO, as you may have guessed by now, your title does not say a damn thing.

 

[DieselTech]

To me it sounds like the hub motor bearings might be going bad, or getting loose. Any type of grinding cant be good & should be looked at or addressed. It possibly could be a broke wire making & breaking contact if you can get it move by turning hard 1 direction or the other.

 

[Hunter.r]

To me it sounds like the hub motor bearings might be going bad, or getting loose. Any type of grinding cant be good & should be looked at or addressed. It possibly could be a broke wire making & breaking contact if you can get it move by turning hard 1 direction or the other.

Thank you this was helpful. I'm guessing loose wiring too but I am wary to try to service an electro magnetic motor by myself. Have you opened one up before?

 

[DieselTech]

Thank you this was helpful. I'm guessing loose wiring too but I am wary to try to service an electro magnetic motor by myself. Have you opened one up before?

I've opened up all kinds of electric motors. Ive just never tore into a ebike motor. When & how often is the grinding noise?

 

[HumanPerson]

adhesive come off stator magnets?

 

[DieselTech]

adhesive come off stator magnets?

That's good to know. Are they epoxied to motor housing or somewhere else.

 

[HumanPerson]

That's good to know. Are they epoxied to motor housing or somewhere else.

usually the housing, on the ones i've opened

 

[ElHegpah]

A loose magnet or bad bearing will not affect the controller at all, unless there is also a loose wire or damaged sensor, both of which can cause what some have called a "grinding" noise. Also not affected by a sharp turn.

But, hey, guess away and don't test for anything. Random chance will eventually work.

 

[HumanPerson]

A loose magnet or bad bearing will not affect the controller at all, unless there is also a loose wire or damaged sensor, both of which can cause what some have called a "grinding" noise. Also not affected by a sharp turn.

But, hey, guess away and don't test for anything. Random chance will eventually work.

I thought you had the technicalities covered

 

[Hunter.r]

usually the housing, on the ones i've opened

I will open it up and check for these stator magnets as soon as I can thanks for this. I do not know what the inside of my hub motor looks like yet but I will come back and update when I get the chance. Where are the magnets positioned usually? Are they circular magnets that I'm looking for?

 

[HumanPerson]

I will open it up and check for these stator magnets as soon as I can thanks for this. I do not know what the inside of my hub motor looks like yet but I will come back and update when I get the chance. Where are the magnets positioned usually? Are they circular magnets that I'm looking for?

Once you get the hub motor opened you will be able to see the magnets and their positioning.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorStatorRemoval.pdf

 

[HumanPerson]

ElHegpah Is correct though, on the damaged sensors or wires.​

 

[DieselTech]

Once you get the hub motor opened you will be able to see the magnets and their positioning.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorStatorRemoval.pdf

Thanks for the video. I'm glad I watched it. Good info there.

 

[Hunter.r]

First, if you can't be bothered to post a picture or a link, how hard do you expect others to work to solve your problem?

Next, examine carefully what wiring is affected, in any way, by putting weight on the seat and/or turning hard, and do you turn a particular direction? This should not have any effect unless there is a damaged wire or loose plug moved by these actions.

Is it more likely to take off if you get it rolling 3-5 mph before applying throttle?

When "the motor stops", do you mean the wheel comes to a dead halt and you fall off, or that the motor stops propelling the bike, and then as it rolls to a stop, do you get any grinding noises.

When "the controller flashes", do you mean all lights flash on the display, then go out, or all lights on the display continue to flash, if so for how long, is it not just one but maybe 3, or 5, and then they go out, or is it just one light or a small group of lights, and is this in fact on the display itself, or actually on the controller box?

Have you tried, after the "stop" and "flash", doing absolutely nothing for 2-3 minutes, disconnecting the controller from the battery by manually unplugging the wires, then plugging them back in and turning on, then GENTLY applying throttle, AFTER pedaling up to 3-5 mph? If so, what happens, if not do so at first opportunity.

Also, you have apparently had several such events, detail everything you do to the bike between the event and when it starts to work again.

Do you have a voltmeter and if so what readings directly from the battery have you obtained, if not, strongly advise you go get one, ideally with at
least two digits past the decimal point on the readout.

And, NO, as you may have guessed by now, your title does not say a damn thing.

If you dont have a clue on an obviously distinct issue maybe you just aren't in an experienced position to help me even if I answered all your shot in the dark questions. Keep getting angry and bothered in your little comments though I find it hilarious.

 

[ElHegpah]

Good luck to you.

 

[Wiley]

If you dont have a clue on an obviously distinct issue maybe you just aren't in an experienced position to help me even if I answered all your shot in the dark questions. Keep getting angry and bothered in your little comments though I find it hilarious.

I was reading about your problem and your replies.

At first I thought your bike manufacturer had come up with a new safety device that stopped a user from propelling the bike forward by squeezing the throttle with no rider on the bike - but Nope.

I can see you being upset with not getting professional help with your problem but people here ARE trying to help you (For FREE). But you expect professional solutions and immediate answers when you aren't following the protocol to diagnosing your issue.

You need to take your bike in to a bike shop to get your answers from a "knowledgeable" professional, since you can't help the people here to help you.