Battery splitter box advice

Once again, if I am displeased, It is child's play to design something more functional.
I will give a commercial model a shot at it first.
If it is unreliable, or, has too much of a voltage drop, it will be replaced.

And yes, I would agree that Alibaba (and similar Chinese websites) push a lot of questionable stuff.
 
I have put about all the effort into this I care to.

The real deal with these is, Dumbasses are going to buy them, and Dumbasses and their families are going to die because of them.

I guess I am OK with that.

The secret ingredients for homemade napalm are styrofoam for the thickening agent, and ivory soap flakes to provide additional oxygen.

Hopefully Darwin will be proven correct.
 
Once again, if I am displeased, It is child's play to design something more functional.
I will give a commercial model a shot at it first.
If it is unreliable, or, has too much of a voltage drop, it will be replaced.

And yes, I would agree that Alibaba (and similar Chinese websites) push a lot of questionable stuff.
I agree to a point. But remember most ebikes are made in China. What I did before I bought my xtra battery I contacted the MFG to find out what the amperage of the BMS is and what's the name of the cells are in the battery. I told them I would open the cover of the battery to check out. Now if it not what they said after I got the battery I would dispute the charge on my credit card. Now the BMS in my battery is 30ma and I have Samsung battery cells. So I am happy with my new xtra battery. IMHO I would always contact the MFG if your going to buy anything from Alibaba.
 
I don't want to huckster for a product (so I won't name it), but the combiner which is being shipped is made in the USA, a bit more costly, but well recommended by people whose opinion has decent weight. It also comes with two extender XT60 cables, which can be cannibalized to implement what I have planned. It is rated at 50 amps, which is about 150% of my target zone. I am an old-school engineer, and don't believe in running things at their maximum stated value. You have to allow for swings in expected current with any design. This allowance is how you get better reliability. i.e. I would not use a 30-amp combiner, if it is being ran at 25 amps.

Before it is hooked up, it will be put on my workbench and its function verified for my use. Like another member here, I have power supplies, loads, Fluke meters, and dual-trace scopes to analyze electrical products. I will know if it is a winner before the first cable on the bike is cut, heat-shrink slid over, tinned and soldered. I don't believe in "oops".

Like you, I have ordered from China, sometimes the manufacturer is responsive, when they are not, I find one which is.
 
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