Taming the BBS02 Beast

[HillAversion]

I tend to ride with my Bafang BBS02 in PAS 1, but I’m finding even that to be too much power when i need to ride slowly due to trail conditions or slow rolling riding buddies. I also need to tamp down the ghost pedaling at low speed.

i just ordered a control cable and downloaded the programming software for my motor. Does anyone have any programming tips for taming the beast in that lowest PAS setting? I’d like to get a little more exercise on those slow rides.

 

[fabbrisd]

Sure, the "1st tip" is this: my Bafang midi friends use this : CLICK HERE PENNOFS BAFANG CONFIG TOOL FREE

"2ND TIP" always SAVE a copy of your existing config BEFORE you make/attempt any changes

 

[HillAversion]

Sure, the "1st tip" is this: my Bafang midi friends use this : CLICK HERE PENNOFS BAFANG CONFIG TOOL FREE

"2ND TIP" always SAVE a copy of your existing config BEFORE you make/attempt any changes

Thanks. I’ve downloaded that tool and yeah, ill be sure to save a copy.
I’m just not sure about parameters.

 

[m@Robertson]

Here read this. It is probably focused in exactly the direction you want to go. the headline is for the BBSHD but the programming is effectively the same.

BBSHD Programming For The Pedaling Cyclist (2023 Update)

Explore enhanced BBSHD programming for pedal assist settings that don't let the bike run away from you, and throttle settings gentle on the drivetrain.

talesontwowheels.com

 

[HillAversion]

Funny you should mention it. I did read it. It's a really good blog post. I'll have to review it before messing with the configuration, but it does look like the direction I want to go.

When I bought the motor they asked me if I wanted it to be programmed "aggressive " or "moderate." I said, "moderate."
Good thing I didn't go with "aggressive."

Thanks.

 

[m@Robertson]

When I bought the motor they asked me if I wanted it to be programmed "aggressive " or "moderate." I said, "moderate."
Good thing I didn't go with "aggressive."

I have found that a lot of these motors are sold programmed in supposedly different ways, but if you dig into the controller and compare one version to the other... it turns out they are identical.

 

[HillAversion]

I have found that a lot of these motors are sold programmed in supposedly different ways, but if you dig into the controller and compare one version to the other... it turns out they are identical.

I wouldn't be surprised.

I'm a little hazy on connecting the bike to the computer. See if I've got this straight.

• You plug the cable into the bike
• You plug the cable into the laptop
• You open up the software
• You connect and activate the ebike battery

Correct?
I really, really don't want to screw this up.

 

[m@Robertson]

• You plug the cable into the laptop. or since its 2023 and not 2013... into your cell phone, which has the Speeed app (three 'e's) installed on it already.
• Open up the app
• Disconnect the display from its green port plug
• If your battery is turned off/disconnected, connect it.
• Plug the phone+cable into the display port plug on the controller side. (Male/female connection so you cannot screw this up)
• Software should tell you its connected. Regardless, tell it to read the settings and it will.
• DOCUMENT YOUR CURRENT SETTINGS. Screenshot what you see. Or take a different phone and take pictures of the screens.
• Make changes, write the changes to the bike (changes do not take effect until you execute the write step). Go ride. This is the benefit of the phone app if you make a change and it doesn't do what you want, you can pull over and make another change and immediately reassess.
• Don't forget to plug the display back in before you ride again.

 

[HillAversion]

• You plug the cable into the laptop. or since its 2023 and not 2013... into your cell phone, which has the Speeed app (three 'e's) installed on it already.
• Open up the app
• Disconnect the display from its green port plug
• If your battery is turned off/disconnected, connect it.
• Plug the phone+cable into the display port plug on the controller side. (Male/female connection so you cannot screw this up)
• Software should tell you its connected. Regardless, tell it to read the settings and it will.
• DOCUMENT YOUR CURRENT SETTINGS. Screenshot what you see. Or take a different phone and take pictures of the screens.
• Make changes, write the changes to the bike (changes do not take effect until you execute the write step). Go ride. This is the benefit of the phone app if you make a change and it doesn't do what you want, you can pull over and make another change and immediately reassess.
• Don't forget to plug the display back in before you ride again.

 

[HillAversion]

Cool; thanks.

 

[Duncan]

Hi. I have a BBSHD and completely reconfigured the programming to soften the aggressiveness of the motor without reducing the effective torque when I want it. It really wasn’t that difficult to do so you shouldn’t feel apprehensive about making changes. For keeping track of my settings I took print screen pictures of them and then printed them out. I could poke around and find them and email a copy to you if you’d like to try them as a starting point. Another thing I did was to mount a smaller chain ring. That gives me outrageous torque and reduces my top speed. For me going 35 mph on a fat tire trike is simple too fast and unsafe. Another note is there are stickers available that identify your ebike as an E2 by labeling it. I rarely exceed 20 mph, but do use the extra torque and thumb throttle.

 

[HillAversion]

Thanks. I'll be sure to save the default settings and take a few screenshots before I change anything.

I've read that you can mess up the motor if you do this wrong, but I imagine you'd have to do something really stupid for that to happen. Nevertheless, those kinds of warnings always lead me to procrastinate a bit and make sure I've got my mind totally wrapped around the project before I dive in. Come to think of it, I did that when I installed the motor too.

I like to be belt and suspenders safe.

 

[Greg47]

Or get an egg rider. Tried the programming route and it was over my head. This Eggrider works great.

 

[HillAversion]

• You plug the cable into the laptop. or since its 2023 and not 2013... into your cell phone, which has the Speeed app (three 'e's) installed on it already.
• Open up the app
• Disconnect the display from its green port plug
• If your battery is turned off/disconnected, connect it.
• Plug the phone+cable into the display port plug on the controller side. (Male/female connection so you cannot screw this up)
• Software should tell you its connected. Regardless, tell it to read the settings and it will.
• DOCUMENT YOUR CURRENT SETTINGS. Screenshot what you see. Or take a different phone and take pictures of the screens.
• Make changes, write the changes to the bike (changes do not take effect until you execute the write step). Go ride. This is the benefit of the phone app if you make a change and it doesn't do what you want, you can pull over and make another change and immediately reassess.
• Don't forget to plug the display back in before you ride again.

Thanks. I finally got around to doing this after reading everything four or five times. The bike is much better now. I'm not sure if I'm quite where I want to be with this yet, but I'm a lot closer. I haven't really tested it in every circumstance, e.g., hills, gravel, etc. I'll probably do a few more tweaks before I get it exactly where I want it.

Your information was really helpful. Thanks for sharing.

 

[m@Robertson]

Or get an egg rider. Tried the programming route and it was over my head. This Eggrider works great.

The EggRider gives you the exact same settings interface and options. There is no difference in what they give you to work with, so insofar as 'programming' is concerned it is a $100+ solution to an $18 problem. It also introduces reliability issues that have persisted since its inception and are still going on despite its longevity in the marketplace. It doesn't even provide you with a uniquely small display any more, since now you can buy the SW102 (identical to the ERv2), or the DM03 (a better alternative) or the DZ40 (smaller, bigger display visible in direct sunlight and costs under $30).

I've had an ERv2 for years on my Cyc X1 Pro with an aftermarket controller and it suffers from a not-uncommon issue with its phone home registration requirement failing, so it can't be updated or adjusted. Thankfully it hasn't bricked the bike like so many others have experienced. You can see the issues reported on their Facebook user support group.

Your information was really helpful. Thanks for sharing.

Glad it worked out for you! Just remember there is no such thing as a perfect universal set of settings. Everybody wants something different, although the settings I linked above give you a starting point that is as gentle on the drivetrain as possible, eliminates the overrun issues etc. Once you have that refined baseline all you have to do is dial the power up or down until it suits you.

I came up with another variation just yesterday. I am taking a 52v/30a BBSHD'd bike and putting it in the hands of a non-cyclist with health issues who wants to use an ebike to ease his way out of a sedentary lifestyle. That bike needs gentler acceleration, since even the detuned 'flat land' config that peaks PAS at 400w still has a throttle that can jump the bike off the line too fast for a newbie. So I knocked Current Level back to 20a, which takes care of the throttle issue but makes PAS gutless. Setting Current Decay to a middle-ground of 6 versus the '2' its normally at (not the full-blast '8' on the hill config) brought PAS strength back to a peak of about 650w on '9' and 50w on '1', which gives a beginner rider a good range for his early days of getting back on the bike.

 

[HillAversion]

The EggRider gives you the exact same settings interface and options. There is no difference in what they give you to work with, so insofar as 'programming' is concerned it is a $100+ solution to an $18 problem. It also introduces reliability issues that have persisted since its inception and are still going on despite its longevity in the marketplace. It doesn't even provide you with a uniquely small display any more, since now you can buy the SW102 (identical to the ERv2), or the DM03 (a better alternative) or the DZ40 (smaller, bigger display visible in direct sunlight and costs under $30).

I've had an ERv2 for years on my Cyc X1 Pro with an aftermarket controller and it suffers from a not-uncommon issue with its phone home registration requirement failing, so it can't be updated or adjusted. Thankfully it hasn't bricked the bike like so many others have experienced. You can see the issues reported on their Facebook user support group.

Glad it worked out for you! Just remember there is no such thing as a perfect universal set of settings. Everybody wants something different, although the settings I linked above give you a starting point that is as gentle on the drivetrain as possible, eliminates the overrun issues etc. Once you have that refined baseline all you have to do is dial the power up or down until it suits you.

I came up with another variation just yesterday. I am taking a 52v/30a BBSHD'd bike and putting it in the hands of a non-cyclist with health issues who wants to use an ebike to ease his way out of a sedentary lifestyle. That bike needs gentler acceleration, since even the detuned 'flat land' config that peaks PAS at 400w still has a throttle that can jump the bike off the line too fast for a newbie. So I knocked Current Level back to 20a, which takes care of the throttle issue but makes PAS gutless. Setting Current Decay to a middle-ground of 6 versus the '2' its normally at (not the full-blast '8' on the hill config) brought PAS strength back to a peak of about 650w on '9' and 50w on '1', which gives a beginner rider a good range for his early days of getting back on the bike.

I took a longer ride today and found that the operation of the motor was a little erratic as I pedaled with no throttle, which is how I normally ride. The PAS was slow to kick in, sometimes taking several pedal revolutions, and the voltage as shown on the 860C display kind of jumped around. On my way home I climbed a fairly steep hill that I normally ride in PAS 1, third gear, and the PAS quit on me halfway up the hill. Suddenly I was riding an acoustic bike. Not good. I stopped the bike and ended up throttling up the other half of the hill from a dead stop. The throttle seemed to be working normally and it got me up the hill Just fine. Once I reached level ground I released the throttle and resumed pedaling. The PAS kicked in and the motor seemed to run okay the rest of the way home on level ground.

I‘ll connect it to the computer sometime this week and review all the settings. I’ve got all the original settings saved and I took notes as I made changes. Please let me know if you have any ideas on what might be the problem.

I normally have ridden the bike almost exclusively in PAS 1, which has been great for cruising in 7th gear but overpowered at low speed in a lower gear. I’m thinking I may need to set up a low speed PAS level and another one for cruising that’s similar to my original settings, but now the motor seems a little squirrelly at low speed and when under stress. I’ll have to get that sorted out.

 

[m@Robertson]

I took a longer ride today and found that the operation of the motor was a little erratic as I pedaled with no throttle, which is how I normally ride.

That all sounds like something is wrong with the motor. Or more specifically the internal PAS sensor, or the speed sensor. The 'several pedal revolutions' thing in particular is definitely wrong.

I have no idea what your actual settings are, so I can't do much in the way of diagnosis. How about posting screenshots?

What happens to power delivery in PAS2? PAS3? Does the erratic behavior go away? If so thats an indicator that its the settings level at PAS1 and maybe not the motor. Remember settings are interrelated so its not necessarily a single thing causing the problem.

Also if you put all the settings back the way they were before... what happens? Problems persist or do they go away?

 

[HillAversion]

That all sounds like something is wrong with the motor. Or more specifically the internal PAS sensor, or the speed sensor. The 'several pedal revolutions' thing in particular is definitely wrong.

I have no idea what your actual settings are, so I can't do much in the way of diagnosis. How about posting screenshots?

What happens to power delivery in PAS2? PAS3? Does the erratic behavior go away? If so thats an indicator that its the settings level at PAS1 and maybe not the motor. Remember settings are interrelated so its not necessarily a single thing causing the problem.

Also if you put all the settings back the way they were before... what happens? Problems persist or do they go away?

Good points. I didn't ride very extensively in PAS 2, so I can't be sure how it'll behave. I'll give that a try. The erratic pedal assist start-up perplexes me too. It seems unlikely that the speed sensor or PAS sensor would suddenly go bad, but who knows? I'm not going to get too stressed out about it just yet. Maybe I just mistyped something.

I did save the original settings, so I'll probably make that my next starting point.

I'll also get some screenshots of the current settings sometime this week. I'm trying to let this whole thing percolate in my brain a bit. I know you can't diagnose what you can't see, but I appreciate your willingness to help. I'm sure this will all get sorted out, but I don't want to ride the bike very far in its current state.

 

[HumanPerson]

Gotta ride it to fix it

 

[HillAversion]

I didn’t have a lot of time today, but I connected the computer and loaded the original default settings, which I had saved before making any changes. I rode the bike around the block and she seems to be back to her old self, which was a relief.

I‘m going to have to do some more research and make sure I’ve got my mind around what all these parameters actually mean before making any more changes. I suspect that I may just need to make very minor changes to a couple parameters in one PAS level to get it where I want it, but we’ll see. At this point I don’t feel like I understand it well enough to be making wholesale changes.