Motor Controller for ex demo model trike

[Whinger]

I have just bought an ex demo model trike, I cannot remember the make, it has a LSDZS controller fitted which no longer works,
The Product No is LSW686-27-1M X21100167 Ex factory date 10 2021.
The spec is
Rated Voltage 48V
Max Current 25A
Rated Current 12A
Low voltage protection 42V
Throttle adjustment voltage 1.2V-4.4V

The motor is a Bafang front wheel hub motor FMG061.750.D 07 011F6V9270817
48 Vdc
750 Watts

and the LCD is a C300S

Both battery and LCD work on another unit, but when the connected to my controller the battery shuts down (protective mode?)
I have tried to contact Bafang, LSDZS and LSee but just get a total blank from each.
The company I bought the bike off has ceased trading so no help there.
I am new to ebikes and to this forum and I am hoping somebody could help and point me in the direction of an compatible Controller, otherwise i have an expensive bookend sat in my garage.

Many Thanks in advanece

Ian Rogers

 

[ElHegpah]

Matching the voltage and amp ratings is pretty easy.

Bafang uses standard connectors, mainly because they SET the standard.

Just search Amazon or similar to match the specs, VERY CAREFULLY match ALL the connectors, or get some pigtails and do some splicing, you should be fine.

I would get a new display to match the new controller, unless you find one that SPECIFICALLY states is compatible with your existing display.

If you currently have, and wish to retain, reverse capability, that will severely limit your choices, but still do-able.

I would first VERY CAREFULLY check all existing controller wires and connections looking REAL HARD for a short, bad connection, damaged wire, etc. The battery shutdown on connection is an unusual fault state.

EDIT TO ADD: Is it at all possible to check the controller from the other unit on your trike? This could damage the controller, so, a bit problematic. Or, put your controller on the other unit. This should not cause any harm. While testing, use lowest power setting and minimal throttle. As little as possible.

Was thinking on this, just a rare type of fault. One thing which MIGHT cause this is a short in the phase wires, three thick wires going from controller to motor. Can short either outside, or inside, the motor. This IS a common fault. Massive amps in these wires, a multiple of listed amps, overheat or impact damage can short these, all it takes is a small nick in two or more wires, bend them in different directions, look VERY carefully, this is pretty common.

Need a digital voltmeter, test all three for shorts, continuity, etc. Google or search youtube for correct tests and settings, I am not an electrical engineer, but they are pretty easy to do. Take care to not let the probes touch, and put a brand-new battery in the DVM. Bad battery can still work but cause inaccurate readings.

 

[Whinger]

Thank you for your answer, I had ordered one from amazon but none of the connectors matched so I returned it this morning, I knew I could have changed the connectors but I could no find any identical to the connectors on the bike. You mention reverse capability, I did not know that that was an option on this trike (never rode it, it's my wife's and she has not mentioned it to me), also there is a red button on the left grip, she doesn't know what that does either, could you help there? We tried to get the trike repaired by a company that hires them out and they did all the fault finding and swapping the components around to narrow it down to the controller, but they then hit a brick wall the same as I did with Bafang ect.
Thanks again I will look again at the controllers in amazon'
Thanks

 

[ElHegpah]

IDK if your bike is reverse capable, hence "If you currently have, and wish to retain". Replacement controller would have to have that feature.

Did the bike shop specifically check the motor was OK if a KNOWN GOOD controller was installed? Or did they stop short of this test?

The red button could be a horn, it could be cruise control, it could be for reverse, it could be just decoration and non-functional.

Has this unit been functional while in your possession? Your first post suggested it was dead when you bought it. If it worked in your possession, then it began to NOT WORK in your possession, and you would know everything that happened to it, and could tell us exactly what happened around the time it STOPPED WORKING, which often can lead to solving the problem.

 

[Whinger]

Yes the trike was working when we bought it, my wife had done about 60 miles on it. She was out riding it and stopped, turned off the power on the battery key switch, took a photograph of something that had caught her eye, turned the power back on and it was dead, no led showing on the battery and the screen was dead. recharged battery and switched on again dead, recharged again unplugged motor, screen, throttle etc. switched on again dead. The bike shop has tested battery on another model, powered up the screen and tested the motor and cables all check out ok, so that just leaves the controller, due to the brick wall that's Bafang, LSDZS and LSee, I have sent the controller off to a local electronic repair company, but have not heard anything back from them as yet. I am new to the electric bike world and reading on google about compatible motors, controllers, lcd's has made me a bit nervous of purchasing a new controller to suit this motor, I have googled the motor number (FMG061.750.D 07 011F6V9270817) and I can get an FMG060 or an FMG062 listed but not the FMG061. I am an Automation engineer by trade so I know that any inverter will work with the motor as long as the Power and Voltage match but its the screen and the firmware for the to match is my problem.
Sorry for the long post and again thanks for your help.

 

[ElHegpah]

OK. The bike shop MUST have had a functioning controller with the proper connectors in order to test your existing motor. Find out what it is, where they got it, etc.

If it was just "tested", find out if they actually made the motor move under its own power.

If they do NOT have a matching controller, then the state of the motor is unknown and it is more likely the motor that is the problem

A detailed examination of the last trip made will most likely reveal : some sort of impact or contact of the wiring and connections with some solid or sharp or abrasive object, or, a severe hill climb or other load event which would cause the motor to get hot, or some other severe event.

It is very, very rare, though not impossible, for a functioning unit to be working, you switch off, then attempt to switch back on and it fails. What is VERY MUCH more likely is that there is more to the story of just exactly what happened on that last trip. It is not ten to one, or a hundred to one, it is several many hundreds, plural, to one.

Also, if you do get a new controller, get the screen that works with it. Screens are not AT ALL interchangeable, controller and display should be purchased together unless there is VERY SPECIFIC info that your particular model will work with that particular controller.