Fiido Dual Hub Motor Setup

edthyehu

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Hi everyone, I got a fiido Q1 with 1500w setup on my current bike.
I bought another 1500W hub motor and controller, wanting to install in the front of my fiido.
I have 2 controllers and 2 hub motors
and 2 batteries but 1 throttle.
Qn 1: How do I wire 2 controllers to 1 throttle?
Qn 2: Can I run 2 batteries individually to each independent cotroller?
Thank you for your help and advise.
Greatly appreciated
 
Hi everyone, I got a fiido Q1 with 1500w setup on my current bike.
I bought another 1500W hub motor and controller, wanting to install in the front of my fiido.
I have 2 controllers and 2 hub motors
and 2 batteries but 1 throttle.
Qn 1: How do I wire 2 controllers to 1 throttle?
Qn 2: Can I run 2 batteries individually to each independent cotroller?
Thank you for your help and advise.
Greatly appreciated
Look into a FBC battery & controller combiner. I think with this it blends your battery power & allows use of a second controller.
Screenshot_20230906-115825_Chrome.jpg
 
What is the purpose for this?
And how does it work?
The 2 center terminals are connectors for power to your controllers, in your case 2. Then the 4 outside terminals/connectors is for your batterys up to 4 at a time. Then FBC is a junction/terminal block for your batterys & controllers.
 
If you run that FBC combiner, then I think the only thing you will need to do is Y- your throttle signal wire to the 2 controllers. You will also have to Y- your brake switch wires I believe.
 
Also the job or purpose of that combiner is it blends your battery power to your controllers & discharges multiple batteries to the same voltage. So if you run 2 batterys & go for ride it will discharge both batterys to same voltage/percentage while on your ride.
 
If you run that FBC combiner, then I think the only thing you will need to do is Y- your throttle signal wire to the 2 controllers. You will also have to Y- your brake switch wires I believe.
I have seen on youtube some people had their setup connect positve and negative wire from controller 1 and connect both signal wire from controller 1 and controller 2
 
This is with 1 battery setup. But I have 2 batteries...
Is it going to be the same setup?
Well you really need to run a battery blender or a battery combiner with 2 batterys. If you dont run a battery combiner your controllers/system might favor 1 battery over the other & discharge 1 battery lower than the other.

You run a chance of ruining a battery without a battery blender/combiner.
 
I think with the FBC battery combiner & a XT60 terminal kit, you would save your batterys & the install will be alot cleaner/professional. Not a cluttered wiring mess.
 
This is rough drawing of the battery blender circuit. All your other
20230906_152218.jpg
wiring will stay the same as the pic/diagram you posted. Them FBC combiners are controller amperage specific.
 
This is with 1 battery setup. But I have 2 batteries...
Is it going to be the same setup?
Its my understanding that if a battery blender is used multiple batteries will appear to the system as one battery. As for the throttle the idea of using a y-connector to connect one throttle to two controllers should work assuming the controllers and motors are the same. Of course this setup would not allow the rider to switch which motor is working at any point in time. A better solution may be to get a two motor controller, there are a few out there, that may have a way to control which motor is running.
 
Yeah if you want to control the motors separate. I think you could add a toggle switch on the ground side of the throttle wires at the Y-connector to the front or rear controller. If the toggle is put in the Y-side of the wire on1 controller or the other.

Then I believe you could control the motors seperate. I may be wrong on this, soo a guy will need to do some home work.
 
Interesting project - sure - adding a front motor will give you added "3000W YouTube Cred" - please understand adding the 2nd motor and 2nd battery is not going to "Double-Your-Fun" on that Q1-Taken-From-Mini-Bike-Design.

The important advantage(s) of the Blender/Combiner is think of ot making two batteries into one battery with double capacity - like taking two 2 gallons - and "combining" them to make a single full 4 Gallon bucket - this "blended" combination is also going to give you total range about 35% more than running the 2 batteries individually.

I love Projects - kindof cute - but the Q1 "like a mini-bike to me" - just wouldn't be a comfortable ride for me - for sure !
 
Battery combiners disable or bypass most of the primary safety features of your lithium batteries BMS system.

They are dangerous.

Please take some time and investigate battery-powered consumer products, such as lawnmowers and snowblowers, which can mount two batteries.
These are sold by large companies, with engineering staffs, risk-management departments, and lawyers on staff. NONE OF THEM, NOT ONE, offers any sort of "battery combiner" on a consumer product. There are very good reasons for this, and it is NOT to sell more batteries.

If I ran this website, ALL mention of such devices would be immediately banned.

I realize you do not understand the life-threatening situation you are recommending. That does not excuse the stupidity and ignorance of pushing these dangerous devices.

To make it simple for most of you, what happens is that most of the low voltage cutoff protections, both for the battery as a whole and for individual parallel groups, are no longer functional when such devices are in use.
 
I sense your enthusiasm for the eBike segment - and you certainly have earned respect here in this forum .

I don't know your experience in China Manufacturing including Li-On battery technology - but I do know mine.

From my side - I have seen the "cordless" segment grow from it's infancy in HK/China manufacturing in the early '80's up thru today. Starting with regular Friday night dinners at the HK San Franciscan Steak House with my biz-friends at that time, including Horst Pudwill. Horst one night in 1986 pulled a modified Craftsman corded drill (with the cord cut off) from his briefcase. His engineer had converted to DC motor - and Duck Taped NiCad batteries around the handle - that was Horst's "proof of concept" to pitch Sear's that next week - and frankly we all wished him well - and most of us "friends" celebrated the intitial HK 0669 offering in 1990.

This is not one of those "Old Timer" stories - I remain active with China manufacturing up thru and including today

Please don't "rant up on me" - if we disagree technically - that's a technical disagreement - and not "political" or "morality" disgareement - and frankly I would never make a "intelligence" assessment of someone based on forum conversations.

My understanding is this - eBike Combiner’s/Blenders do not affect any existing Internal BMS Low Voltage Protection for that eBike battery.

Power Tools do not have the Current Demand that eBike's and other PEV's do - so understandably Power Tools have no need to "Pack-Up-More-Cells" like PEV batteries do. And frankly in Powerr Tool batteries that have BMS - their BMS "protections" are more rudimentary than eBike/PEV segment>

The External Combiner/Blender does not communicate or affect the Internal Battery BMS in any way – the BMS retains all its engineered contols and cutoffs for Charge and Discharge for that battery.

I will NOT be responsible for the use of eBike batteries that do NOT have internal BMS – and I will not be responsible for mis-factual information posted by others.

The Combiner/Blender is external to the Battery(s) - frankly it’s a relatively “dumb” - measures the voltage feed from each battery – a traffic cop gateway between that batteries and the controller. Used highest voltage battery 1st – until both batteries are matching voltage – then “combine” both batteries (think of a wider pond – not a deeper pond) - then the each battery will drop off from the combiner when that battery reaches its internal BMS low voltage cutoff.

I don't know your experience in China Manufacturing including Li-On battery technology - but I do know mine.

I have absolutely no problem if you choose to continue your Disagreeable Disagreement - of Inferred Insult -
 
I specifically cited lawnmowers and snow throwers as having similar sustained hi-power demands to ebikes. Many such devices will mount two batteries, but NONE parallel them in any way.

Many ebikes come with two batteries, but NONE parallel them in any way.

Why is it that NO COMPANY which offers such a device is reachable by US consumers for civil or criminal liability,

----AND ----

NO COMPANY, which IS reachable by US consumers, for civil and criminal liability, offers any similar device?

"China Manufacturing" will sell anything they can make a buck on. They are not AT ALL concerned with getting their rear end sued clean off.
 
Battery combiners disable or bypass most of the primary safety features of your lithium batteries BMS system.

They are dangerous.

Please take some time and investigate battery-powered consumer products, such as lawnmowers and snowblowers, which can mount two batteries.
These are sold by large companies, with engineering staffs, risk-management departments, and lawyers on staff. NONE OF THEM, NOT ONE, offers any sort of "battery combiner" on a consumer product. There are very good reasons for this, and it is NOT to sell more batteries.

If I ran this website, ALL mention of such devices would be immediately banned.

I realize you do not understand the life-threatening situation you are recommending. That does not excuse the stupidity and ignorance of pushing these dangerous devices.

To make it simple for most of you, what happens is that most of the low voltage cutoff protections, both for the battery as a whole and for individual parallel groups, are no longer functional when such devices are in use.
I find it very interesting that this person is posting this information without bit of information where they have obtained the information about combiners. As for using a device like a combiner would bypass the builtin BMS and the protection offered by them on the surface makes no sense to me. After all they are in the actual battery packs and control the batteries output before they connect to the combiner.
 
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