Custom Built Fatty - BBSHD & Nuvinci N171 CVP hub.

[BBassett]

Rohloffs are 'only' rated to 130 Nm... BBSHD's 160 Nm...

I've always coveted a Rohloff, but have never been up for the added expense of it plus a Gates belt after I've gone and built out everything else to how I want it. Part of that is knowing derailleurs so well and IGH's only barely.

In 8-years of riding, I've never been in power levels 8 or 9, and have the torque ramp-up set gradually in all 9 levels of assist, so I'm not worried about giving the Speedhub more torque than it can take. I'm more concerned with the chain and gears. Being able to set the ramp-up and the percentage of assist for each level in addition to having a variable throttle make's the BBSHD the perfect. pairing for a Speedhub with only 3 parts taking any wear. Well, that's not true, but only 3 parts are wearing because of chain stretch. I can replace the entire drive train in less than an hour and on long rides carry the parts with me. As far as the Speedhub... like Porsche coined in 1974 "There Is No Substitute". The cool thing is that with an IGH you don't need to know anything other than how to operate it and change the oil twice a year. Once you own one you will never go back. -

Stay safe.

 

[hsdrggr]

Yeah, I had to add a couple links to my chain after changing the chain tensioner from a Surly Singleator to a Paul’s Components Melvin. But when I did I peened the pin after pressing it. Same as you I’m using a missing link for joining the chain. I’m trying the e-bike rated KMC Z1EHX EPT Single Speed Chain Narrow since it seems pretty robust and doesn’t break the bank. It’s a little difficult to source in the USA. Seems pretty available in the UK and Europe. I have a wide version also but it just barely rubbed the frame. If the narrow version doesn’t last I’ll just add a spacer washer to the axle to move the cog a little away from the seat stay.

 

[hsdrggr]

I can’t imagine using 526% of the gear range of the Rohloff, the 350% of the Nuvinci has been more than I need already. Not that I’m climbing mountains or anything, but on bridges and some short 15% grades in the hub’s lowest gear setting the cadence is faster than I can do. At 30mph the cadence is pretty fast too but I never really go that fast so I’m fine with the 42T/22T gearing. I could move to an 18t rear cog to shift the ratio to match my cadence but I would be giving up the incredible climbing ability via throttle up soft dirt/sand hills and dunes. So I’ll stick with the ratio I have for the fat bike.

 

[BBassett]

I’m trying the e-bike rated KMC Z1EHX EPT Single Speed Chain Narrow...

I go through 2 to 4 KMC X8 EPT chains every year. The rear Rohloff gear gets used on one side and then flipped during chain changes, the Lekkie Bling Ring lasted 43K miles before I changed it.

 

[hsdrggr]

I hear the KMC Z1EHX is a heavier duty chain then the KMC X8. Since you’re running a single speed rear maybe try it.

 

[BBassett]

I hear the KMC Z1EHX is a heavier duty chain...

I like the X series they do everything I want and are very predictable for me. Thanks.

 

[m@Robertson]

Yeah, I had to add a couple links to my chain after changing the chain tensioner from a Surly Singleator to a Paul’s Components Melvin. But when I did I peened the pin after pressing it.

I took this pic for a different reason, but look at the chain in the lower left corner. Two quick links. In early 2021 a month after the bike's initial completion, I increased my chainring size. Didn't want to risk the weakened pin, and had done this before on a Surly Big Fat Dummy with no negative results, so did it again here.. Now nearly August 2023 same chain is still in place. Bike has about 3600 miles on the whole chain (KMC 11e) with maybe 3300 on the extension.

As an aside in part I get that kind of longevity on a big cargo bike via ensuring BBSHD settings roll power on very gently, plus that particular bike is 2wd with the second motor set up to complement the mid drive so the HD *never* yanks on the chain of a bike standing still. Completely eliminates the shock and added wear on the entire drivetrain typically delivered by a mid drive.

 

[BBassett]

that particular bike is 2wd with the second motor set up to complement the mid drive so the HD *never* yanks on the chain of a bike standing still. Completely eliminates the shock and added wear on the entire drivetrain typically delivered by a mid drive.

I've thought about adding a hub motor to the wheel in my Mule trailer. Long descents with a loaded bike and trailer would be beneficial for power recapture and saving heavy wear on the brakes, and I can go through about 7 sets of pads a year. I use a SON Dynamo hub up front for lights and charging all USB devices, plus I wouldn't want the unsprung weight of a hub motor.

I don't get any chain-yank but I also use the pedals to get the bike moving as a learned habit for extending my range. Plus, using power levels 2 and 3 with a low "roll on" and more importantly, starting in the lowest gear lets me virtually disregard the chain for weeks at a time. Whenever it looks like I have a black chain I just pressure wash it, hit it with ACF-50 and wipe it down, then lube it with Boeshield T-9. The chain is stretched out of specs within weeks anyway, so "ride it like ya stole it", and replace it every 6 months or so. The biggest impediment to wear comes from having the Speedhub... having a straight chain line and never having to jump gears.

You won't really know how much wear is happening or where. It's when someone changes their chain after a couple of thousand miles that they find out how much wear their gears have really been taking. As soon as the chain starts to stretch it's wearing the gears so they mesh cleanly. Swapping out a new chain will show you which gears are worn the worst.

Ride safe.

 

[Superb_Raccoon]

In the process of building a new bike, but the frame is 5m out. Not a big deal as the riding window is closing in a month or less, and not back until late Feb, unless I can adapt to Midwest winters after a lifetime of California.

Using the Enviolo Sportive Hub, more range, 110Nm, and the Automatiq shifter. More resilient than the manual shifting. Slightly more range at 380%.

Both are CVTs, and the problem is the force needed to change the angle of,attack on the bearings so you go up or down the gearing.

Manual you just don't have the leverage and it tears up the cables if you try to,force it. Hub could care less.

The Automatic has a torquey motor in it, which allows shifting under more thrust than the manual. Still has its limits, you have to back off if you are doing a big climb.

 

[hsdrggr]

In the process of building a new bike, but the frame is 5m out. Not a big deal as the riding window is closing in a month or less, and not back until late Feb, unless I can adapt to Midwest winters after a lifetime of California.

Using the Enviolo Sportive Hub, more range, 110Nm, and the Automatiq shifter. More resilient than the manual shifting. Slightly more range at 380%.

Both are CVTs, and the problem is the force needed to change the angle of,attack on the bearings so you go up or down the gearing.

Manual you just don't have the leverage and it tears up the cables if you try to,force it. Hub could care less.

The Automatic has a torquey motor in it, which allows shifting under more thrust than the manual. Still has its limits, you have to back off if you are doing a big climb.

That’s good to know. Thank you. I picked up 4 of the newer Enviolo Cargo hubs at a super deal for future builds. I might even swap one into this bike to make it easier to shift. Also have one Automatiq kit. It’s impossible to find the 40T version of the shifting interface to fit the Cargo and HD Hubs in the USA. I had to get those parts from ebike24.com in Europe. They are pretty good people to deal with.

 

[BBassett]

...5m out. Not a big deal as the riding window is closing in a month or less, and not back until late Feb, unless I can adapt to Midwest winters after a lifetime of California.

Using the Enviolo Sportive Hub, more range, 110Nm, and the Automatiq shifter. More resilient than the manual shifting. Slightly more range at 380%.

Get a Speedhub and learn to love wet weather.

 

[Superb_Raccoon]

Get a Speedhub and learn to love wet weather.

Wet? Sounds lovely.

Its the -8F before windchill that is the problem.

 

[Superb_Raccoon]

That’s good to know. Thank you. I picked up 4 of the newer Enviolo Cargo hubs at a super deal for future builds. I might even swap one into this bike to make it easier to shift. Also have one Automatiq kit. It’s impossible to find the 40T version of the shifting interface to fit the Cargo and HD Hubs in the USA. I had to get those parts from ebike24.com in Europe. They are pretty good people to deal with.

Me,too.

Although bikeman said October parts were coming. Enviolo isn't going anywhere, but ordering from ebike24 is likely the most reliable.

 

[BBassett]

Wet? Sounds lovely.

Its the -8F before windchill that is the problem.

If you can stay dry you can stay warm... enough.

 

[Superb_Raccoon]

If you can stay dry you can stay warm... enough.

Liquid water is hard to come by 40 degrees below the freezing point.

Breathing it in was painful.

 

[BBassett]

Liquid water is hard to come by 40 degrees below the freezing point.
Breathing it in was painful.

And yet climbers have been doing it for longer than you've been alive. You understand that not all water falls from the sky right, even in freezing weather? "If you can stay dry... you can stay warm."

 

[munirider]

And yet climbers have been doing it for longer than you've been alive. You understand that not all water falls from the sky right, even in freezing weather? "If you can stay dry... you can stay warm."

Cutting the wind is the most critical I use heavy neoprene diving gloves and socks, and face protection to keep hands, feet, and face warm and then every thing else isn't a problem. Dress in layers and you need to be able to ventilate so that you don't get hot and sweaty, all a part of keeping dry to stay warm.

 

[BBassett]

Cutting the wind is the most critical...

For anyone that can... like climbers and campers, it's hard to do on an ebike for those of us who deal with inclement weather. I'm with you on layers and not overheating. During my winter rides, I am either wearing or have available a hard shell, a thin synthetic down jacket, a 40-year-old wool sweater, sleeveless and long-sleeve wicking base layer undershirts, a pair of insulated leggings, a backup pair of thin base layer socks, a pair of heavy over the knee socks, back-up gloves, and a pair of Rainlegs. All this is in addition to the pants, underwear, socks, and shoes/boots I am wearing. A great pair of knee-high snug rubber boots work great for me. I've used overshoes too... it's better than having wet shoes regardless of sock choice. My rubber boots are in the trailer on any multi-day rides year-round. I don't like any of the waterproof socks available or neoprene gloves I can't keep my hands and feet dry in them. A thin wool glove liner under whichever Sealskinz glove I'm wearing depending on the weather. I haven't used electric gloves but they all look thick and bulky. What makes it work for me is bar bags that allow me to stop and level up or down to stay in the "sweet spot". Make sure the hard shell has pit-zips, I wish my down jacket had them too. A double-ended bar bag in addition to a large Arkel bag holds everything I need to ride all year round in the PNW, but the older I get the harder it is to stay warm. I just concentrate on staying dry from rain and sweat. I'm sure if I had to ride in sub-zero temps all the time I would have a few more layers, like those electric gloves and shoe toe covers.

Stay safe.

p.s. FENDERS, you can't stay dry without fenders.

 

[munirider]

Yes what ever works who cares what it looks like I also ride in winter boots. the ones I have are timberland They are warm but not heavy and not so bulky like Sorels.

And yes the neoprene is sweaty it only works for really cold temps also I'm not out all day, usually just a couple of hours. I have been thinking about bar mitts something like these https://www.amazon.com/ROCKBROS-Han...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
They would have to be easy to take on and off though, the weather here in south west Colorado is far to variable for me to want them on my bike all winter.

 

[HumanPerson]

Yes what ever works who cares what it looks like I also ride in winter boots. the ones I have are timberland They are warm but not heavy and not so bulky like Sorels.

And yes the neoprene is sweaty it only works for really cold temps also I'm not out all day, usually just a couple of hours. I have been thinking about bar mitts something like these https://www.amazon.com/ROCKBROS-Handlebar-Windproof-THINSULATE-Motorcycles/dp/B09PZTJV8B/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1SX8ZL9O64WNB&keywords=Bar+Mitts+Cold+Weather+Mountain/Commuter+Bike+Handlebar+Mittens&qid=1696277488&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bar+mitts+cold+weather+mountain/commuter+bike+handlebar+mittens,sporting,137&sr=1-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
They would have to be easy to take on and off though, the weather here in south west Colorado is far to variable for me to want them on my bike all winter.

Those are really warm