Conversation Hub motor and a flat

J

James340

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I don't remember seeing that in the "Mid drive vs Hub motor"comparison.My conversion kit is connected at the controller.Also I installed 2 torque arm's.A flat tire is a catastrophe
 
Indeed. The solution is kevlar belted tires plus thor-nproof inner-tubes, not the kind with the goop, just the kind with extra thick rubber inner tube walls. Heavy as hell but who cares about weight when you're electric. You'll never get a flat again.
 
A road-side patch can be done without removing the wheel.

I have gotten pretty good at levering out one side of the tire, pulling out 1/4 of the tube and checking for a leak, stuffing it back in, and rotating the tire, and checking the next quarter of the tube, until the leak is found. I patch it and then stuff it back in. Then I lever the tire back on the rim, inflate halfway, let the air out, inflate all the way, and drive.

I did get tired of even doing this and put flat-out sealant in both my tubes. The thin factory tires were replaced with thicker Innova Hybrid tires. No flats since then.
 
Brilliant.I am going to practice at home so I can do it when it's needed on the trail
 
I came across this long-dead thread as part of a link from the "Mid drive vs Hub motor comparison" thread, and I have to echo some of what @addertooth said. I commuted on a tubed hub motor bike for many thousands of miles and I got flats down to about a 20-minute hiccup in the ride. That includes the temper tantrum part in the beginning.

I took this picture for a different reason having to do with showing how effective patching is at preserving a tube, but it also illustrates how you don't need to take the wheel off to get a tube out. In this case, I was in the garage and the bike was up off the ground in a repair stand, but roadside what I would do is pull over to the curb, lay the bike on the ground and proceed while sitting on said curb (or big rock or whatever is handy). Narrower tires give less room to work with, but the task is the same.

In January of this year I had to do this on a front hub motor on a 2wd bike. It was two years before that (almost to the day) when I had to do it previously. Tube sealants and flatless tires have come a long way in recent years.

BTW that tube below ... you see 5 patches. It made it to 7 before Hole #8 was on a seam that wouldn't allow a patch. At $20 per tube versus maybe 10 cents a patch the math works out pretty quick in favor of patching.

img_20180623_123127-e1606776572737[1].jpg
 
I have 700cx28 Continental Gator Skins and they are very difficult to remove.I mostly ride this ebike around the community and to a Mountain 4 miles away.I pushed it home when I got a flat.I had not thought about the problem a flat would be before installing a hub motor.
 
I have 700cx28 Continental Gator Skins and they are very difficult to remove.I mostly ride this ebike around the community and to a Mountain 4 miles away.I pushed it home when I got a flat.I had not thought about the problem a flat would be before installing a hub motor.
I have those exact tires on my road bike and they are awesome. Mounted on Mavic G40 rims dating back to the 1980's. I use Pedro's levers combined with one metal Park lever to do the initial heavy lift. The Park lever with the blue coating over it. I forget the model number. Its listed in the tool article below.


The key to not killing yourself pulling off a tire is to push one side of the (totally flat) tire into the center of the rim, which has a small depression in it. That reduces the tightness of the fit enough you can lift off the bead on the other side without breaking things.
 
I have had the tires for about 4 years.Well worth the money.Cheap tires lasted months.One tire recently failed.It delaminated.
 
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