Still having problems with flats on my rear tire.

marcos 22579

Member
Local time
11:22 PM
Joined
Sep 1, 2023
Messages
27
Location
60641
So I did the sanding and polishing of the spoke screws inside the rim as Lectric suggested. Put a new tube and 5 days later full catastrophic failure of the rear tube riding at 25 mph. So I had to call an Uber XL to get home. I lost $32 dollars for the uber.

Now, what do you guys suggest? New rim with spokes? New spokes? Motorcycle rim and spokes?
I need to fix this problem asap and permanently because this bike is my only means of transportation.
 

Attachments

  • 20231009_183735.jpg
    20231009_183735.jpg
    252.8 KB · Views: 83
  • 20231009_183742.jpg
    20231009_183742.jpg
    135.2 KB · Views: 84
  • 20231018_220145.jpg
    20231018_220145.jpg
    273.2 KB · Views: 83
I would have a quality wheel built with heavier gauge spokes & a double wall rim ringle. I had a ebike that kept destroying spokes & rim. I eventually had a 11gauge spoke wheel built with a double wall rim & it cured my wheel & tire problems.
 
CLICK HERE SCHWALBE PICK-UP $52 BEST E-CARGO TIRE

CLICK HERE PAIR DECENT 20X3 TUBES $21

CLICK HERE $18 FLATOUT SEALANT

Add up your Weight + Normal Top Cargo Weight (x 1.25 to account for top mounted effect) - then go to Schwalbe PichkUp Spec Page for see Recommended pressure (in Bar) - I would "guess" about 35-40 PSI for the "right" rear tire.

The "stock" tires from Lectric are NOT going to get you where you need to go - you either need that Pickup on the rear - or a 60 TPI or less rear tire that can handle the proper inflation you need.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
CLICK HERE SCHWALBE PICK-UP $52 BEST E-CARGO TIRE

CLICK HERE PAIR DECENT 20X3 TUBES $21

CLICK HERE $18 FLATOUT SEALANT

Add up your Weight + Normal Top Cargo Weight (x 1.25 to account for top mounted effect) - then go to Schwalbe PichkUp Spec Page for see Recommended pressure (in Bar) - I would "guess" about 35-40 PSI for the "right" rear tire.

The "stock" tires from Lectric are NOT going to get you where you need to go - you either need that Pickup on the rear - or a 60 TPI or less rear tire that can handle the proper inflation you need.
That is a nice looking tire. I kinda forgot about them. Do they by chance make that tire in a 3.5"-4" wide tire? Thanks.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
CLICK HERE SCHWALBE PICK-UP $52 BEST E-CARGO TIRE

CLICK HERE PAIR DECENT 20X3 TUBES $21

CLICK HERE $18 FLATOUT SEALANT

Add up your Weight + Normal Top Cargo Weight (x 1.25 to account for top mounted effect) - then go to Schwalbe PichkUp Spec Page for see Recommended pressure (in Bar) - I would "guess" about 35-40 PSI for the "right" rear tire.

The "stock" tires from Lectric are NOT going to get you where you need to go - you either need that Pickup on the rear - or a 60 TPI or less rear tire that can handle the proper inflation you need.
The ones I put are Kenda K Rad 20 x 3.3 30 tpi.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
First, if you have an ongoing problem that you have already posted about, keep it all in one thread. I have no idea what has happened previously and what you have already tried. I checked your history and saw no other posts directed at this problem.

Also, "total catastrophic failure of the rear tube" does not mean anything other than "it got a hole in it". You got several pictures, BUT NOT ONE of the actual problem.

Does the tube fail with an extended lateral rip following the curve of the rim? How much weight is typically in your cargo box.?

Also, Mr. Fabbrisd, you offer a TREMENDOUS AMOUNT of product for sale. What level of commission do you earn from the products you offer for sale? Commercial and for sale transactions belong in the for sale section. Otherwise, it becomes difficult to tell the difference between a product you are genuinely recommending due to personal experience or knowledge, and something you merely wish to make a buck on.
 
OK, your previous post showed up as similar below this one.

Is this only your SECOND flat, or have there been more?

Answer to this question is VERY IMPORTANT.

First flat was a slow leak. Certainly not a "total catastrophic failure". Completely different type of flat indicates a completely different problem.

Use your old tube as a tire liner, also a rim liner. Trim out the valve. Check THOROUGHLY for foreign objects inside the tire. Inflate to proper pressure. CAREFULLY check the tire bead for any damage.

Pictures of the actual problem, the failed tube, might be useful.

My bike has been my sole transport for two decades. I have not had a flat for several years now, and I ride light, hi-pressure tires. Tell me what you have and I will tell you how to stop it. I absolutely avoid flatout and similar products, more harm than good.
 
First I would check to make sure none of the spokes are loose. You seem to be indicating the leak is on the side of the tube facing the rim? I would add a second rim strip. I've had good luck with slime. In your tire I would add about 10 or 12 oz
 
First, if you have an ongoing problem that you have already posted about, keep it all in one thread. I have no idea what has happened previously and what you have already tried. I checked your history and saw no other posts directed at this problem.

Also, "total catastrophic failure of the rear tube" does not mean anything other than "it got a hole in it". You got several pictures, BUT NOT ONE of the actual problem.

Does the tube fail with an extended lateral rip following the curve of the rim? How much weight is typically in your cargo box.?

Also, Mr. Fabbrisd, you offer a TREMENDOUS AMOUNT of product for sale. What level of commission do you earn from the products you offer for sale? Commercial and for sale transactions belong in the for sale section. Otherwise, it becomes difficult to tell the difference between a product you are genuinely recommending due to personal experience or knowledge, and something you merely wish to make a buck on.
Sorry for the dramatic words to describe what happened. It was late night and took me almost 2 hours to get home because uber drivers declined to load my bike in their Uber XL minivans.

Catastrophic Failure: The tube completeley deflated while riding at 25mph. The tire got out of the rim and the rim fell inside the tire twisting and breaking the tube. No wobble warning like previous flats or funny bounce when decelerating. It just went and the horrible sound of the tire hitting the fender.

On my previous post it was a slow leak. Then one day the tire had a bump. The tube got out of the rim while stopping at an intersection. The rim ripped a 3 inch gouge on the side of the tire. So I bought 2 new tires.
Lectric told me to sand the spoke screws to eliminate sharp edges. I did, put a new tubes and the tires and happened again.

Tipical weight of my cargo box is 50 pounds. 2 backpacks with paperwork, some tools and 3 bike locks.

Last night I ordered the rim strips and will put it on top of the old one. I don't know if that is the right way to do it, but having a double layer makes sense to me. I will check again the spoke screws for sharp edges before that.

I will update this post on saturday and also update my previous post about the slow leak to explain the cause and solution Lectric gave me.
 
mate...after one sands the spoke ends they would need to add rim tape to the rim

Also check the whole rim of the bicycle rim for burrs and any other areas that may cause a slice or puncture in the tubes..make sense?
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
mate...after one sands the spoke ends they would need to add rim tape to the rim

Also check the whole rim of the bicycle rim for burrs and any other areas that may cause a slice or puncture in the tubes..make sense?

The rocket scientists at Lectric send me a PDF but it didn't mention the rim strip or rim tape. Wich now totally makes sense.
I already ordered one to be delivered on saturday. Also the rim had a nasty scuff on the side that hit the pavement the first time it happened. I sanded smooth that. It didn't went all the way into the inside of the "lip" where the tire contacts the rim.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
The rocket scientists at Lectric send me a PDF but it didn't mention the rim strip or rim tape. Wich now totally makes sense.
I already ordered one to be delivered on saturday. Also the rim had a nasty scuff on the side that hit the pavement the first time it happened. I sanded smooth that. It didn't went all the way into the inside of the "lip" where the tire contacts the rim.
Is your bike still under waranty? If yes....ask Lectric to send new rim.......you shouldn't have to sand down a new rim....IMO.
 
1. Lectric has had a Reported Ongoing Problem with the XP rear tire's flat/blow-outs.
The OP was following the "canned" response from Lectric - "try spoke sanding first"

2. My posts on this Forum have ALWAYS BEEN as a Experienced eBike and eScooter Enthusiast.
Every member here has different experience and each member offers a different point of view - I LOVE my 2-wheelers - and I LOVE PARTS.
To be HELPFUL -ANY RECOMMENDATION should TELL WHY you're recommending it - WHERE someone can find it - and HOW MUCH IT WILL COST THEM.



Get a grip
 
If you wish to recommend a product, then recommend a product. You can do that WITHOUT providing a direct link to a product for sale, and you SHOULD, because providing a direct link to a product for sale, is the same thing as SELLING PRODUCT. Instead use "Search for Brand X product #4 at your favorite online retailer, should be about Y number of dollars" Nobody can make a buck on that.

HOWEVER, a direct link, to a product for sale, ( and always at only one online retailer ), is an opportunity for profit. That belongs in the For Sale section.

You can change your procedure, or I will start flagging every advertisement for moderator review and removal. Your Choice.
 
I think that's a bit of an overreaction. Linking a product is not selling a product. If someone asks.....what do you ride and how much did you spend.....I would respond what I ride.......my experience with the product and link the product....nothing wrong with that.......flag away.
 
As compared to a Facebook Owner's Group Forum - dedicated to one Manufacturers Brand - or one specific Model from one specific Brand - here on this forum I appreciate the diversity of the forum members here - which is the result of their diversity in what they own and use.

Of course - El-Heg you have the right to your own opinio.

Frankly for me it's senseless NOT to offer a Direct Link for
a item "I recommend".

My HELP includes a Direct Link where possible = gives additional specific product description/info + give in stock and delivery info - and EACH DIRECT LINK PROVIDES ADDITIONAL BUYER REVIEWS FOR THAT ITEM.

FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS A ISSUE - I SHARE "HELPFUL INFO"

THE ARE OTHERS ON ANY FORUM THAT JUST TALK-TALK-TALK
ABOUT THEIR "OPINION OF THE ISSUE"
FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS A "PROBLEM" - YOU WANT SOLUTIONS -
YPUI COULD CARE LESS ABOUT ANYONE'S "OPINION"
 
All three items posted for sale in this thread by user fabbrisd are identified as Affiliate Links, that confirms he is a paid shill. You can easily verify this for yourselves, do a little google.

Back to the OP - you have mentioned several times what appears to be a problem with the bead of the tire not seating completely onto the rim. When this fails, you will get a VERY rapid deflation, with a long rip in the tube. When you said "the tire had a bump", did you mean an actual protussion on the tire, or that you had an impact with a road object? This can cause a weak spot on the beat to seperate from the rim, the tube pushes out, bursts, and rapidly deflates. This happens faster than the eye can see, had three in a row with both me and the bike shop guy staring at the wheel, did not see what happened. Long rip in each tube. Failures all happened either while inflating or bouncing the wheel off the floor.

Replaced tire, closely checked rim, problem solved. Bad tire bead was the cause.

Anybody know what a "YPUI" is?
 
Back
Top