purchase advice

LIRider

New member
Local time
4:07 AM
Joined
Aug 18, 2023
Messages
3
Location
New York
Good morning everyone from NY. It's been a very hot summer here for the most part and the last thing I want is to be the old guy who has a heart attack trying to get in shape in this heat so I am thinking about getting a ebike although I really know little about them but want to learn and prices of new bikes seem favorable now. I have a good bike store near me but they have a limited selection and online prices are lower I do understand they need to make a profit. One. of the bikes I am considering is the Juiced RipCurrent S mostly because of the battery/motor size but I do realize there are compromises with brakes/cassette/deraileurs etc. I am not sure if I would be able to upgrade components if needed with aftermarket parts after all I think the best brakes avails are important I can't see just replacing inferior parts with inferior parts any advice would be very much appreciated thanks in advance
 
Instead of chasing the "best available", which is a process which will NEVER end, concentrate on what you need to do the job.

Juiced is a good company that has been around a long time, if you need dealer support, your options are limited.
 
1. Juiced is a repurable eBike Brand - and the RipCurrent S (Juiced owners abbreviate that to "RCS") is very repectable respectable choice.
If you go this route - On CheckOut "try" Discount Code VIP100 which if still valid will save you $100 = $1799-VIP100 = $1699 for a Step-Thru
Now. I own a Juiced RipCurrent (not S) that I bought on Closeout from Juiced at $899-VIP100 = $799 but they are all gone.

2. My Choice would in this vein would be the Ariel Rider Kepler - I have owned my Kepler for over a year. - a bit "more" at $1899 but does a bit
more. #1. the 20AH battery uses Samsung 21700 Cells (that's why it's a full 20ah). The 21700 cells are a "step up" in power delivery over the
18650 cells used in the Juiced 19.2AH battery, Both the Arial and Juiced RCS (2023) use the same rear hub motor Bafang RM G062.1000 - the 21700 cells power delivery and Ariel controller make the Kepler accelerate faster and higher top speed over the RipCurrent S (a riding buddy
have RCS and we "drag race" all the time. The Kepler also has a much nicer Color Display - Kepler also has a Rear Brake Light - I prefer the
Kepler Right Hand Throttle a lot better thsan the Lefty Juiced Thumb Throttle.

There isn't anything this weekend "Exceptionally On Sale:" - Labor Day Weekend in right the corner - "maybe" something might pop-up - you never know.
"
 
Thanks for the replies! as I said earlier I'm an older guy with bad knees and a little on the chubby side. That being said I am looking for a bike that will take me on longer rides with less pressure on my knees and if I get a knee replacement maybe the bike will get me out moving so that I can rehab faster. I have also heard that you should prehab before so that rehab is easier. It has been suggested that I should consider a smaller frame size I am 5' 10" so it's easier to swing my leg over I have seen that these big battery bikes with batteries mounted on the bar really make the step-thru frames kind of useless. Right now I am more interested in range over speed there's a nice bike path by me that will take me down to the beach, but I will be riding into the wind either going or coming home if I ride the whole path it will probably be around 30-miles one way.

I think the Ariel Rider Kepler frame is a little too big I think and it's only offered in one frame size on the website. I do like that it has name brand components, brakes/gears even if they are the lowest in the manufacturers line and a beefy rack to take stuff along. The videos I have watched on YouTube show the reviewers mostly "hot riding" this bike on throttle only. I want to incorporate at least some level of exercise hopefully an increasing level of exercise.

The Juiced Rip Current S is offered in 3-frame sizes my wife might be able to fit the medium size frame and I would be at the top end of that making it easier to swing my leg over also making this an easier sell to the wife. As it is easier to ask forgiveness than permission! Youtube reviewers "seemed" to "ride-pedal" this bike more than the Kepler. Reviewers also raved about the torque and cadence sensors. But the Rip Current S seems to fall a little short on the brakes/gears. This is why I was wondering if these parts could be upgraded with better parts if they fail or feel a little unsafe as I said I am a bigger guy.

Right now the Rip Current S is only available in black the only other choice is Red on back order but I'm not sure if red will ever be re-stocked or if Juiced is only interested in selling the available stock to make room for a new models. The Kepler is just black or gray best I can tell with different colored stripes/logos. I just think brighter colors would be safer and easier for cars to see me.

The bottom line both are big powerful bikes and I am not sure if they would be allowed on the bike paths I would like to ride.

That's good advice fabbrisd with Labor Day so close I'll wait to see if there are other bikes on sale that would fit my needs. if anyone hears anything I would appreciate if you passed it along again thanks for the feedback I did learn from it!
 
Thanks for the feedback - you sound like a very good guy ! If your Target run is 60 miles R/T - then you need to choose (1) of (2) paths.

1. As Class 3' eBikes wih unlocked 28-30+ mph - neither then Kepler or the RipCurrent are NOT going to give you the range you need.
the Kepler says up to 60 miles - RipCurrent S says up to 70mile - but the fact is set to Class III unlocked and without earnest edal Assist effort - or any use of the Throttle - 60 - 70 miles gets Hacked Way Down.
With either of those Two Bikes - a 2nd Swap-Out-Battery carried on the Rear Rack solves that Problem. The Kepler 2nd battery made correct spec lets call that +$500 - the Juiced Battery (I am working on that) but currently is exclusive design to Juices - and they are at +$750.

2. There are True 100 Mile Class 2 Bikes out there - "maybe" like $4K ea : https://discerningcyclist.com/long-range-electric-bike/

Conundrum - but then again fun to chase & shop !
 
Thanks fabbrisd sorry I haven't responded for a while busy at work but here we are at Labor Day weekend still haven't made up my mind I really do appreciate the advice really don't want to spend 4k on a bike I just brought a Trek Verve 1 last year soo.... that's kind of a hard sell to the wife yhis is me still shopping
 
I bought the Kepler mostly because I live in hilly country. I like it, but there is no perfect ebike. The frame is large and tall. I bought the step over which really doesn’t help much. I’m 6 feet 200 lbs. if you’re much less than 6 feet I would not re this bike without sitting on it first. I also purchased a drop seat which is an essential safety item. With that you can get full leg extension for pedaling and both feet on the ground when necessary. Note: I bought mine over the winter and did not promptly assemble it and it was doa. They sent replacement parts promptly and I hired a guy to install them and it worked fine. I think some of the connections got loose during transport. All in all I like the bike and it is a good value. P.s. I’m 75.
 
I missed you a couple months ago; welcome!
Now is a good time to buy, as Black Friday deals are going on now.

Thanks for the replies! as I said earlier I'm an older guy with bad knees and a little on the chubby side. That being said I am looking for a bike that will take me on longer rides with less pressure on my knees and if I get a knee replacement maybe the bike will get me out moving so that I can rehab faster. I have also heard that you should prehab before so that rehab is easier. It has been suggested that I should consider a smaller frame size I am 5' 10" so it's easier to swing my leg over I have seen that these big battery bikes with batteries mounted on the bar really make the step-thru frames kind of useless. Right now I am more interested in range over speed there's a nice bike path by me that will take me down to the beach, but I will be riding into the wind either going or coming home if I ride the whole path it will probably be around 30-miles one way.
OK, 60 mile round trip, check.

It sounds like you also value utility; rack & fenders.

Do you NEED the fat tires? If not, avoid them, as they lead to the whole bike becoming heavier and more expensive. The heavier the bike is, the more reliant you are on the electric assistance. Ironically, it is the lighter bikes with the longer range, assuming you're willing to pedal.

One bike I have may be a contender for you; the Aventon Level.2 [LINK]

It is on the heavy side at 65 lbs., but it has street tread tires that roll pretty well. I have gone 55 miles on one charge before, getting the battery down to 6% not even being too conservative. To get that range, I have the PAS turned off while on flat ground, pedaling it at around 13 mph. When I need to climb a hill or into a headwind, I engage PAS to level 1. I'm sure 60 miles is doable like this. If I run it out like this, and have to ride home without power, it's doable, but it won't be your preference. Once the sting of the bike purchase has faded, you could buy another battery pack when they're on sale and not have to be too conservative. Then, you have the option of leaving PAS on all the time for that ride and it'll take you half as long to get there. You choose how much work you want to do.

There are lighter, cheaper eBikes, maybe the Aventon Solterra? It's not as fast and doesn't include rack & fenders, but I'm sure it'll be easier to pedal. It only advertises a 46 mile electric range, and that will assume the lowest power assistance and significant effort on your part. However, when the battery's depleted, you're only pedaling a 46 lb. bike home!

In my cycling club, there are a few members who are now riding eBikes. (road bike-type. ex. Trek Domane+) The early ones were heavy, around 45 lbs., but if the fellow doesn't have to be going 20 mph all the time, they're quite pedal-able. Unfortunately, they're expensive and the leaned-forward posture isn't for everyone. A century ride on one of those would be no problem at all, since they roll so efficiently and are aerodynamic.
 
If you are all handy you can convert your existing Trek Verve 1 to electric. By converting you get choice about motor, battery, PAS/torque sensor, throttle, and display.

I'd recommend some version of a rear hub with a 20Ah battery (maybe as rear rack battery?) for that range. Can you charge at your destination? The more you pedal the longer you can go.

The industry has overbought and inventory is high. It's a good time to buy an eBike for sure. It is hard to figure out what you want. Shop for frame size, frame style, motor type (mid-drive or hub), then battery size.

Good luck
 
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If you are all handy you can convert your existing Trek Verve 1 to electric. By converting you get choice about motor, battery, PAS/torque sensor, throttle, and display.

I'd recommend some version of a rear hub with a 20Ah battery (maybe as rear rack battery?) for that range. Can you charge at your destination? The more you pedal the longer you can go.

The industry has overbought and inventory is high. It's a good time to buy an eBike for sure. It is hard to figure out what you want. Shop for frame size, frame style, motor type (mid-drive or hub), then battery size.

Good luck
why only 20ah ?
 
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@LIRider - best you can do for yourself is take your bike with you to a bike shop in your area that also sells E-bikes and see what they suggest in converting your existing bike into an E-bike....if they try to hard sell you a new one walk away....anyone in any business who values their existing and prospective customers shouldn't have a problem recommending a course of action to take....sort of like the car salesman who told me once "What if I can get you into a brand-new car instead?"....I walked away....if they're not willing to help & offer suggestions then why bother with them....but I digress....visit a local shop first so you have an idea of what's available and go from there....
 
Why do you always talk about Ah instead of kWh (VxA) on this forum? It seems the Wh defines the capacity and range. Just curious....
 
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