Is it feasible to add a front hub motor to a Giant Lafree?

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Is it feasible to add a front hub motor to a Giant Lafree (For use with throttle only and isolated from the mid drive.)

I have a 2018 Giant Lafree. It's great, but there are times where I'm feeling really lazy and don't want to pedal at all. I've read there's no way to add a throttle to it, so I'm thinking I could add a front hub motor with its own battery, throttle, and controller rather than buy an entirely new bike.

It has 26" wheels and disc brakes.
Max speed I'd really need is 20 mph, but if it could do 25, that'd be cool.

I mostly bike on relatively flat trails, and I'd always have the mid drive for hill climbing.

Would it be difficult to get an off-the-shelf hub motor like the Bafang one to fit the bike?

Is this a terrible idea?
 
I don't know, I would need to see and have some info about your front fork configuration, and I CAN'T SEE IT FROM HERE.

Likely easier and cheaper to get a new controller and throttle, but I would need to see and have some info about your motor installation, and I CAN'T SEE IT FROM HERE.

Is this a terrible idea, well, for you, most likely.
 
How many ways can you name where a front motor installation can be seriously dangerous?
 
If anyone else would like to offer me assistance without just trying to make me feel bad about myself, I'd be happy to hear your replies. I will upload some pictures of my fork soon.
 
If anyone else would like to offer me assistance without just trying to make me feel bad about myself, I'd be happy to hear your replies. I will upload some pictures of my fork soon.
electricbikereview.com has many detailed pics and closeups of your bike. Not the least of which shows the forks are steel with eyeletted QR dropouts.

I have been doing 2wd bikes for years, and among other things rely on them as daily drivers, which I have to say is entirely different from what you want to do. Your bike looks like a decent candidate for a low-power 2wd conversion, but its not ideal. Challenges will be battery mounting and you will lose the ability to do PAS on the front wheel. 2wd PAS is a wonderful thing, but your ability to make it work with a factory installed mid-drive is not going to be easy. If you aren't an experienced builder I'd say its going to be too much for you to enable that feature.

Your fork has fender eyelets in the dropouts, so you have a ready-made place to install torque arms. Also, you've got a step-thru frame that is going to present no space issues with regard to a battery, but attachment is going to be the challenge since you have no water bottle dropouts to mount a battery securely. The battery mounting will be the biggest challenge and its not something you should take lightly. Figure that out first before you go to the time/trouble of buying a front motor/controller/kit.

You will not be able to use your existing battery, so you're going to be buying a new pack. Since you already have a pack on your rack - and those are awful in terms of weight distribution, but livable on a street cruiser, you don't want to pile another one on there.

Here's an FYI kind of explainer on the 2wd topic. Good for de-mystifying and putting to bed a lot of the misinformation you hear from talkers who don't have any practical experience.


You want to do a low power front motor. No more than 500w. Something like a Bafang G020 which delivers 45 Nm of torque. Nothing powerful as your bike isn't meant for that. But literally thousands upon thousands of ebikes in the EU (where people ride no-frills bikes for transportation by the zillions) have small front motors like this.

Use a relatively mild front controller. 25a would be plenty. Look at the Grin Technologies v2 torque arm and use two on your fork. One on each side. Ignore any stated issues about torque arms going on backwards. Just do it. Its a low power motor and for this kind of install two are a good thing and cheap insurance.

You can get around the lack of eyelets with Duratruss clamps. I have never used them but I have seen them used as battery mounts in exactly your kind of situation. Here's a pic of them in use on a pretty large tube. They're available in multiple tubing sizes. The side you cannot see has an open bolt that you can then use to screw down your battery mount.
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Here's an example of a well-spec'd kit, although I don't know if this is a vendor you want to buy it from. It uses the relatively hard to find front 48v/500w G020 motor - mostly you'll see 36v/250w. Decline to buy the battery from them (never trust a Chinese battery from strangers) and the whole kit is only $242. From there I would buy a pack from a better source. Maybe EM3EV who has a good rep for Hailong/Shark style packs. Never a cheap source like AliExpress and certainly never, ever buy from UPP.


EDIT: For my bikes with G020 motors, I have always bought the bare motor and had a wheel built using components I choose. Don't expect top quality from a kit wheel build. $242 is less than I would expect to pay for a quality wheel, where just the Sapim Strong spokes, for instance, cost about $1.20 each. Add about $70 for a 36H MTX39 rim and you are already over $110. Buy the motor for about $130 and bam you have exceeded the whole kit price. But you'll have better components and a wheel worth relying on if you use the bike for transportation you can rely on.
 
Thank you both for the detailed replies! I skimmed them for now and will try to digest them later tonight.
 
My wifes ~20 year old Giant Lafree didn't have a spring/shocks. But I haven't kept up. Generally, a sprung front fork shouldn't be used to pull.

As for the general efficacy, fine. I laced a Xiongda ~550 watt, 2 speed hub to the front wheel of my son's old (unsprung) mountain bike and used it for years. Pulled a Bob trailer and everything. Since it had a 1.8/1 underdrive, it had extra pulling power and autoshifted at a certain wheel rpm. But they had mechanical strength issues with the nylon gears, so unless there is something new with these 2 speed hubs (which actually mechanically underdrive as opposed to the hubs that change their connections at a certain speed), don't go that way...
 
If anyone else would like to offer me assistance without just trying to make me feel bad about myself, I'd be happy to hear your replies. I will upload some pictures of my fork soon.
I have SEEN instances where someone added an independent front hub motor from a kit that included the controller, and 2nd throttle but no display, and ended up with two batteries to power each motor individually.

I wouldn't recommend it but as I said people have done it.

If NOT Pedalling your mid-drive is the issue, why not have someone weld pegs to the frame where you can rest your feet while using the main bikes' throttle?
 
I have a 2018 Giant Lafree. It's great, but there are times where I'm feeling really lazy and don't want to pedal at all. I've read there's no way to add a throttle to it, so I'm thinking I could add a front hub motor with its own battery, throttle, and controller rather than buy an entirely new bike.

It has 26" wheels and disc brakes.
Max speed I'd really need is 20 mph, but if it could do 25, that'd be cool.

I mostly bike on relatively flat trails, and I'd always have the mid drive for hill climbing.

Would it be difficult to get an off-the-shelf hub motor like the Bafang one to fit the bike?

Is this a terrible idea?
It can work but you have to be careful of the front front forks as they in most cases are not designed to handle the torque a motor can apply to them.
 
Yeah if that front fork was alloy the answer would have been a hard 'no' with no qualifiers of using a lower-power motor, torque arms etc.

EDIT: Its worth mentioning that a far better solution to a 2wd kit is to sell the bike and get one that has a throttle on its mid drive rear motor. Putting on a front motor is an incredible amount of effort for such a minimal gain that is desired for no truly compelling reason.
 
You all have at least touched on most of the issues with a front fork install. No mention of avoiding regen, but that is a bit nit-picky.

What you need to do next, is give a detailed description of just exactly what can happen, with a front motor install, if there is a serious mechanical failure.

Do be careful not to make the OP feel bad about himself.
 
AFAIK, hub motors can be laced to front wheels just as easily as rear. They are derailleured, so no regen. Whatever problems could occur from a "serious mechanical failure" would be no different than those at the rear wheel. This was my experience with my Xiongda 2 speed. If i'm off, Anyone, Anyone, please disabuse.

FYI, we had a BikeE recumbent tandem that I equipped with a 35cc Honda 4 stroke, turning a NuVinci Developer's Kit IGH auto trans hub laced to the rear wheel.. Powerful, especially with a 3.8/1 transmission range, and a top speed of ~20 m/h. But even with a rear suspension it bounced under power without a rear rider. I finally removed it, and laced my Xiongda 2 speed hub to the front, 16" wheel. That worked well. Top speed was ~16 m/h, but you wouldn't have wanted to go much faster on that. Pull power was great, even with 2 aboard.
 
Yo bob, Xiongda finally crapped out on ya, eh? Wasn't the gears, it was the clutch. Great while it lasted, eh? You used to be so happy with yours.

Front motors have no gearset attachment on the side covers. Narrower.

"They are derailleured, so no regen." This comment makes no sense. They have no derailleure, and it would make no difference if they did. Front motors can regen same way as rear. No difference.

As for what can go wrong - First look at your rear dropout. Notice it is at the corner of a braced triangle. Consider the REAR of your vehicle dropping and slowing suddenly, like a severe flat. You are still seated, with some control.

Now, consider the front fork. No brace. One unsupported bar on each side. If aluminum, fiber, alloy, can snap easily. Even steel can bend the dropout, and the front wheel leaves the bike. Dropouts and fork are NOT DESIGNED to support any kind of powered input, unlike the rear.

Shocks on the front will often bind seriously under power, causing severe variations in fork function which can lead to come loss of control issues.

Pause for a moment and consider that I, personally, used to own a Lambert, also sold as Viscount. Known as the "death-fork" bike. Some sort of manufacturing defect, killed a few people. Nice road bike, front forks would suddenly snap off near the dropout. Loss of front wheel or fork is number one deadly bicycle accident, outside of motor vehicle impact.

The front of the bike pitches down, very suddenly, with a jarring impact which seperates the hands from the handlebars. As the forks stab the pavement, the bike slows or stops, with a LOT of energy pitching the rear of the bike, and rider, rapidly up and forward like a Roman catapult, with a projectile speed often greater than the bike's travel speed, headfirst into whatever solid object is in that direction.

Powerful motor, regen especially dangerous. Mild Steel only acceptable material. Torque arms near-mandatory. Take care of your nuts.
 
"Wasn't the gears, it was the clutch. "

Nope, my clutch bearings were fine. I posted a pic of my gears on another fora, years ago. The consensus was that they were wasted. Many missing/bent nylon "teeth"

"You used to be so happy with yours."

True. Great service, until the nylon gears failed. Twice. Xiongda sent me a new set, which also failed after a couple of years.

""They are derailleured, so no regen." This comment makes no sense. They have no derailleure, and it would make no difference if they did. Front motors can regen same way as rear. No difference."

Derailleurs was an incorrect, generic description of mine. The motor free wheels one way. Sorry if I used the wrong term. And no, geared hubs don't regen, for just that reason.

"Dropouts and fork are NOT DESIGNED to support any kind of powered input, unlike the rear."

Agree. But the litmus test is if they are strong enough anyway. Both my BikeE2 and my son's mountain bike were.

"Mild Steel only acceptable material. Torque arms near-mandatory."

Agree with both. Who wouldn't use torque arms?
 

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The problem with the Xiongda design, was that the clutch failed to properly engage when changing rotation direction. That is why so many folks chewed up the gearset. The gears themselves were not defective.

There are hub motors which are NOT geared, and therefore offer regen.
 
Too bad about the Xiongda. I always wanted to try one of those. It sounded like a neat idea, but I was never sure about reliability and they essentially disappeared from the market, anyway.

Failure on a front motor:

You build smart, not stupid. So you never use an alloy fork. You certainly never use carbon fiber and you do use steel, which the OP has. To get around bending, you use a substantial steel fork. Not for example a road bike unless you are putting on a 250w motor and a small EU-spec controller. I looked at the fork and it is substantial, with steel dropouts with fender eyelets. The fender eyelets are ready-made for torque arms.

What can go wrong? Well, precious little so long as you are not an imbecile and put on something like a powerful front motor... say, a QS203v3 and tie a 60+a controller and 72v battery to it. Beyond that... failure is not going to happen so long as the builder isn't stupid, and takes the precautions of dual torque arms and substantial steel forks. I have 7500 miles on a Surly Ice Cream Truck fork and 35a G060 Bafang fat motor. Also I think 3500 miles on one short 20" steel fork with a 25a G020. and just over a thousand miles on another identical bike/motor/fork. These last two are cargo bikes and while those motors are less powerful at 45Nm, they do much heavier duty than the 80 Nm G060. Oh and another 2500 miles on my sand crawler. Thats another 80 Nm/35a G060, which uses an Ice Cream Truck fork now, and used to use an alloy Origin8 fork for about 2000 miles (did that one only because the dropouts were positively massive, and I was running on the street mostly. When I switched to sand and beaches, I went to steel).

The front motor failures you see - and there are plenty of them - occur with dumbasses who used suspension forks. If I had a dollar for every alloy suspension fork whose dropouts sheared clean off thanks to a big DD hub motor (with or without torque arms), I'd have my bar tab paid off. Noteworthy is I have seen more than one of those where the torque arms held the fork together for the ride home despite the sheared dropouts. Otherwise its going to be a faceplant and injuries. I have never seen a failure leading to a crash with a steel fork and dropouts. I have seen steel dropouts spread, but that is always due to a lack of torque arms. Count me as a dumbass on that one as on my very first ride on my very first build after a long day of assembly I forgot to tighten the arms. No crash, but forks ruined forever. A mistake I never made again

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On the fear of front motors:

If you go to Europe, particularly The Netherlands, where there may be more bicyclists in one town than there are in the entire United States, you will find low power front hub motors (like the kind most of us are discussing for the OP) are plentiful, with no whimpering or hand-wringing. Go here and just scroll down. Bikes 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 are all typical front motor city bikes and while they look awful to us snobby Americans, this is what you see on the road in a cycling society where people park on the street and don't try to impress others with them (these are actually very spiffy compared to most bikes, which usually look like rolling pieces of junk).

See this? That is the Central bus terminal in Amsterdam. Train station is next door. See what looks like a grove of bushy trees over in the lower right? Thats part of a bike parking lot for daily commuters. There must be 1,000 bikes parked there. I made that number up but still its a lot.

You see more daily cycling and ebiking experience in that one picture than is ever going to show up on an internet forum.

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The Xiongda disappeared because some angry SOB forced it's number one pimp, Eric Hicks, owner of Luna Cycle, to confront the obvious mechanical flaws in the design despite him repeatedly lying about it.

I would bet money that the OP was not aware of ANY of these risk factors on a front hub install.

I would like to tell him, that in his memory, when the next poor dumb SOB is about to risk his neck on a front motor with no knowledge of the risks, I am not going to say a damn thing, lest he accuse me of "just trying to make him feel bad about himself."
 
, I am not going to say a damn thing, lest he accuse me of "just trying to make him feel bad about himself."
Dude, it was your attitude and phrasing. The contrast between the helpful replies others have posted and your yelling and insults is black and white. That's all there is to it. You can be helpful on a forum without abusing a newbie.

You yelled in all-caps that you "can't see my bike", then said it'd be a bad idea for me, despite not knowing anything about me, my knowledge, or my mechanical ability. When asked why, you didn't explain but asked a rhetorical question, instead.

I dont know why I'm wasting my time even replying to you. You're just going to make another snarky reply, I'm sure. Do us all a favor and don't, and maybe spend some time thinking about how you conduct yourself on a forum. Maybe realize there's a person behind the screen you're typing into.
 
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