Display or Controller ?

Pascal.2111

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Joined
May 1, 2022
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Hi I decided to swith my front hub motor(1500Watts) to a new bike yesterday and at the end of the installation I try to start my e-bike and I got an undervolt error on my display.(My display is a kt-led880) so the Low was flashing and that pretty much it. Thing to note every lights are working on the display.
Things I have done so far:
1:Recharge the battery to full charge(52Volts 20 AH battery)
2:Check if the mosfets of my controller are working properly(KT36/48ZWSRL)
3:Clean every connections of every cables with 99% alcohol
4:Check the voltage send from the battery through the controller to the display(58volts)
5:Reset the display(Not sure it work) Pressing Mode and ON/OFF power for 5 to 10 seconds.
6:Verify all the cables on the e-bike to see if they are damaged
7:Only connect Display to controller and controller to battery(same issue)
At this point I'm out of idea, is my display or my controller are broken ???
Thank you very much for reading me and if you have any input I will gladly try them before ordering display? controller? boths?
Sorry for the quality of my english I'm doing my best.

components:
1500W front hub motor
KT-LED880 Display
Standard throttle
52V 20Ah battery
KT36/48ZWSRL Controller
Standard PAS
 
There is no Li-ion battery which fully charges to 52V. What is commonly called a "52V" battery charges to 54.6. What is Less commonly called a 58V battery charges to 58.8.

If you tell the controller you have a 58.8 battery, or if for some reason it decides that you DO have a 58.8V battery, then you attach a 52V battery, which is properly charged, the controller will detect a 54.6V battery when it is expecting a 58.8V battery and give you an undervoltage error.

It is actually more likely the other way round and getting an OVERvoltage error, as you should not be at an LVC level for cutoff, but that is likely TMI.

However, it is absolute that the battery CAN NOT BE both a "52V" and a "58V".
 
Hi I decided to swith my front hub motor(1500Watts) to a new bike yesterday and at the end of the installation I try to start my e-bike and I got an undervolt error on my display.(My display is a kt-led880) so the Low was flashing and that pretty much it. Thing to note every lights are working on the display.
Things I have done so far:
1:Recharge the battery to full charge(52Volts 20 AH battery)
2:Check if the mosfets of my controller are working properly(KT36/48ZWSRL)
3:Clean every connections of every cables with 99% alcohol
4:Check the voltage send from the battery through the controller to the display(58volts)
5:Reset the display(Not sure it work) Pressing Mode and ON/OFF power for 5 to 10 seconds.
6:Verify all the cables on the e-bike to see if they are damaged
7:Only connect Display to controller and controller to battery(same issue)
At this point I'm out of idea, is my display or my controller are broken ???
Thank you very much for reading me and if you have any input I will gladly try them before ordering display? controller? boths?
Sorry for the quality of my english I'm doing my best.

components:
1500W front hub motor
KT-LED880 Display
Standard throttle
52V 20Ah battery
KT36/48ZWSRL Controller
Standard PAS
How did you deal with this problem... Cuz I'm at the same place right now! Fully charged at 54.6v for 48v nominal... I replaced a hall sensor in the motor last winter... I'm really hoping I don't have to open it up again
 
I can't help myself:

The post made by "Deleted Member 4845" is all wrong. A battery that charges to 54.6v is what is known as a 48v battery. The pack that charges to 58.8v is known as a 52v battery. Also all that undervoltage stuff is baloney. 52v and 48v systems are cross-compatible with only very rare exceptions. The reason is simple: the 100% charges of both are so close together a 52v system is only over the 54.6v peak by a small amount that is well within 48v system tolerances. In fact the two are so close the only REAL reason you do 52v vs. 48 v is not because of the extra punishing speed you get from a 52v system... 52v just lets a 48v system run in its sweet spot for a little longer. You get four more usable volts as you run the pack down. Performance is pretty much identical between the two, otherwise.

The most noteworthy exception to 48v vs. 52v cross-compatibility was created within the last couple of years by Bafang to deliberately break their displays if they detect a 52v battery. You have to buy a Bafang display from a big reseller like Luna who have ordered models that are 52v-compatible (Bafang will break any rule if the order is big enough).

I feel better now. Can't stand to see balderdash sit unchallenged. Carry on.
 
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