This is a bargain U lock

Pinhead,
That looks like a very substantial lock. It should give good service.

I tend to stick with a "level 5" Kryptonite lock. It is considered a Classic in the USA.
I bought a level 3 lock, and then misplaced the key. I was disappointed that I was able to
cut that lock with a small set of 2 foot long bolt cutters.

I normally carry two stout locks and two really thick steel braided cables in my saddlebag.
The name of the game is to make Your bike look like the hardest target in the bike rack.

From what I hear, in places like London and New York there are gangs of bike thieves who
take the entire bike rack and load it into the bed of a truck, or a large cargo van. In that
case, no lock, regardless of quality will fully protect the bike.
 
Pinhead,
That looks like a very substantial lock. It should give good service.

I tend to stick with a "level 5" Kryptonite lock. It is considered a Classic in the USA.
I bought a level 3 lock, and then misplaced the key. I was disappointed that I was able to
cut that lock with a small set of 2 foot long bolt cutters.

I normally carry two stout locks and two really thick steel braided cables in my saddlebag.
The name of the game is to make Your bike look like the hardest target in the bike rack.

From what I hear, in places like London and New York there are gangs of bike thieves who
take the entire bike rack and load it into the bed of a truck, or a large cargo van. In that
case, no lock, regardless of quality will fully protect the bike.


I use this lock and my Abus Granite on my bike, 2 bikles so 2 of each lock, they can only load the bike if they can cut it from an immovable object,
 
Hmmm . . . I'll bet an angle grinder can get through that in no time.

Right now the MOST Angle Grinder RESISTANT locks are the Litelok X3 and Hiplok D1000, Both are $300.00.
NO LOCK is Angle Grinder PROOF, but these two locks will take a battery powered angle grinder 5-6 minutes to cut through with 3-4 disc changes and even a battery change in most cases. Most thieves don't carry Extra discs and batteries.

With any lock or chain combo what you are buying is TIME. The longer it takes to cut through, the better your chances are that the thief will give up and run, especially with other people around.

Also you should Alarm your bike with one, Preferably two different alarms so that even if the thief thinks he can cut your lock, the sound of TWO alarms going off he'll most likely not even try the angle grinder.

For my own bike I ordered the Litelok X1 which is the original version of X3, and the Cryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit chain(both Diamond Rated), and I'm also getting Two alarms and a Tracking Device, -AND- I have Insurance through Velosurance. With ALL of these protections on my bike, I feel confident that the chance of it getting stolen is None to Noner!, but even if it does get stolen the insurance will pay me the FULL Price I paid for my bike, I can just get another one.
 
Hmmm . . . I'll bet an angle grinder can get through that in no time.

Right now the MOST Angle Grinder RESISTANT locks are the Litelok X3 and Hiplok D1000, Both are $300.00.
NO LOCK is Angle Grinder PROOF, but these two locks will take a battery powered angle grinder 5-6 minutes to cut through with 3-4 disc changes and even a battery change in most cases. Most thieves don't carry Extra discs and batteries.

With any lock or chain combo what you are buying is TIME. The longer it takes to cut through, the better your chances are that the thief will give up and run, especially with other people around.

Also you should Alarm your bike with one, Preferably two different alarms so that even if the thief thinks he can cut your lock, the sound of TWO alarms going off he'll most likely not even try the angle grinder.

For my own bike I ordered the Litelok X1 which is the original version of X3, and the Cryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit chain(both Diamond Rated), and I'm also getting Two alarms and a Tracking Device, -AND- I have Insurance through Velosurance. With ALL of these protections on my bike, I feel confident that the chance of it getting stolen is None to Noner!, but even if it does get stolen the insurance will pay me the FULL Price I paid for my bike, I can just get another one.


Did I say it couldn't was that even the point !!!!
 
If you only want to spend US$22, I suppose that lock (the Yale) is worth that. But I agree with @Senior_Cruiser it is not a lot of protection.

A cheap lock for a cheap bike is fine. Two cheap locks are twice as good, but figure that Yale's mere 14mm shackle is lightweight, AND its round so one cut will let it spin open, means you have only about 30 seconds of protection (15 seconds per lock if you are using two independent locks, one cut each), worst-case.

I have a Litelok X3 on the way. There is a 30-day wait time on them as they have a manufacturer's backlog, and my 30 days aren't up yet. That will extend protection to a few minutes BUT a battery powered angle grinder will not have the juice to do the job. You'd need multiple batteries and IIRC 4-5 cutoff wheels to get thru it (or a mains-powered grinder). For a bike in front of a busy shop that effectively makes it angle-grinder proof, not just resistant.

I don't bother with alarms. My locking strategy is to secure it to a solid object - which is required for my insurance to pay out - and to use two independent locks, so both have to be cut thru to enable moving the bike. Also each of the locks requires two cuts, so whatever time is taken getting thru my 18mm stainless shackle on my Xena u lock, or the 16mm shackle on my second independent U lock... guess what you get to do 2 more cuts. And I use a 2-meter Pragmasis boron steel chain noosed to the frame so you aren't going to be able to just release the front wheel or some similar shortcut.

The point being its obvious to the thief its easier to steal an adjacent car (or the next bike over in the rack) than my bike.

 
If you only want to spend US$22, I suppose that lock (the Yale) is worth that. But I agree with @Senior_Cruiser it is not a lot of protection.

A cheap lock for a cheap bike is fine. Two cheap locks are twice as good, but figure that Yale's mere 14mm shackle is lightweight, AND its round so one cut will let it spin open, means you have only about 30 seconds of protection (15 seconds per lock if you are using two independent locks, one cut each), worst-case.

I have a Litelok X3 on the way. There is a 30-day wait time on them as they have a manufacturer's backlog, and my 30 days aren't up yet. That will extend protection to a few minutes BUT a battery powered angle grinder will not have the juice to do the job. You'd need multiple batteries and IIRC 4-5 cutoff wheels to get thru it (or a mains-powered grinder). For a bike in front of a busy shop that effectively makes it angle-grinder proof, not just resistant.

I don't bother with alarms. My locking strategy is to secure it to a solid object - which is required for my insurance to pay out - and to use two independent locks, so both have to be cut thru to enable moving the bike. Also each of the locks requires two cuts, so whatever time is taken getting thru my 18mm stainless shackle on my Xena u lock, or the 16mm shackle on my second independent U lock... guess what you get to do 2 more cuts. And I use a 2-meter Pragmasis boron steel chain noosed to the frame so you aren't going to be able to just release the front wheel or some similar shortcut.

The point being its obvious to the thief its easier to steal an adjacent car (or the next bike over in the rack) than my bike.



As I stated I use 2 locks this and an abus granite
 
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