Does a 750 front and a 750 rear add up to 1500 watts?
- Thread starter penndan
- Start date
addertooth
Well-known member
Top speed is often more driven by battery voltage than Watts.
But, in terms of "get you out of the hole" acceleration, many claim dual motors gets the job done slightly better.
I am running dual 1Kw motors, about 95% of the time I have the front motor switched off, as it is excessive.
I took my bike to a skate/bike park (it had jumps, fishbowls, ramps, stairs, skids, etc). I found that the people around me were shocked to hear the sound of squealing rubber under full power; the bike has street tread for traction on hard surfaces, as versus knobby tires. The surface was cement.
I would bet that dual 750 Watt is the sweet spot for a lot of types of riding. There are times that dual 1 Kw is a bit much.
But, in terms of "get you out of the hole" acceleration, many claim dual motors gets the job done slightly better.
I am running dual 1Kw motors, about 95% of the time I have the front motor switched off, as it is excessive.
I took my bike to a skate/bike park (it had jumps, fishbowls, ramps, stairs, skids, etc). I found that the people around me were shocked to hear the sound of squealing rubber under full power; the bike has street tread for traction on hard surfaces, as versus knobby tires. The surface was cement.
I would bet that dual 750 Watt is the sweet spot for a lot of types of riding. There are times that dual 1 Kw is a bit much.
J
James340
Guest
I have a 48 volt 1000 watt Direct Drive hub motor that goes 35 mph on battery.It is very powerful.
Since you are asking about Hub Motor eBikes - correct ? I have not heard of someone adding a Front-Huib-Motor-Equal-To-Rear-Hub-Motor to increase Top Speed.
I would suggest you share Your Objective - what type of eBike - and what you want to achieve - then somepne can share what they have done to get there.
Top Speed - in general - is a function of the Total Watts of the rear Hub Motor - with today's "more common range" from 500W 50 3000W - and the power delivery available from the Controllerr (todays general range 35A-to-100A) - and the Voltage and power compacity available from the battery (general range today 48V=80V) and total capacity 20AH-60AH
I would suggest you share Your Objective - what type of eBike - and what you want to achieve - then somepne can share what they have done to get there.
Top Speed - in general - is a function of the Total Watts of the rear Hub Motor - with today's "more common range" from 500W 50 3000W - and the power delivery available from the Controllerr (todays general range 35A-to-100A) - and the Voltage and power compacity available from the battery (general range today 48V=80V) and total capacity 20AH-60AH
m@Robertson
Well-known member
On paper, yes.
It has close to the same top speed as a single 750w motor. My single 750w motor with a 52v battery behind it peaks at around 28-30 mph. Add a second motor to the front wheel, and I top out at about 34. When doing two motors, you are not changing the max rpms of the motor(s). As noted above, voltage is what decides top speed. 2wd basically removes torque limitations from the top speed part of the equation, so the motor is better able to hit and hold its max rpms versus the load it has to carry.
If you want to go faster, increase your battery voltage. My single motor (Bafang G060) on a 52v battery peaks out with my 230-lb self on the bike as described above. However, using the same 35a controller, but a 60v-capable version, and a 60v battery... that exact same motor, bike and rider with just that one change will cross 40 mph.
Dual Motor AWD Electric Bikes (the good and bad)
I like to build top-quality-component ebikes from the frame up. Quite a few of them are dual motor or AWD or 2WD or whatever you want to call them. Why would you build an AWD ebike?
talesontwowheels.com
If you want more control, or climb hills with authority, or giggle at the acceleration, thats where 2wd excels mightily. For my flat land street commuter with its dual 35a controllers and 52v 30ah battery with a 90a BMS (thats a detail you'd better not miss) I had to dial down the acceleration so it was safely controllable and kind/gentle to my already-chromoly frame over the span of years. Fortunately my controllers have a setting called 'slow start' that gives me full amps, but rolls the power on at a gentle curve with an increasing slope. That keeps me from skidding off the line, face-planting if I hit the gas on the front wheel at a stop while its turned sideways, or weakening my frame after doing 1000 burnouts.
