Bike shuts down at 80% battery!! ( HELP ).

Jojomako47

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Hello my name is Joseph and I'm going to start from the beginning, ok, I bought a 72V 3000W rear wheel hub kit with 72V 26ah batterie on ali-baba. Bought a brand new "GT" bike to put the kit on. ( 1st. Ebike build)! Well I get everything installed and I'm stoked, ready to take it for a ride, I'm in the drive way and turn it on& I'm thinking " s**t #3 sounds good " ( there is 5modes on lcd screen)& I turn the throttle to go & in the blink of an eye, the back wheel ripped off the back of the bike and was up by my front wheel & I'm still standing in same spot!! Literally broke right off the frame! ( because I forgot to put the torque arms on!! So now I need another bike because this brand new $550 frame is no good! So I buy a "JAMIS" off offer-up "used" I can't afford another brand new at this time. I get everything mounted on this bike and made sure to even put torque arm on both sides, and I'm ready to go for a ride and nothing screen says ( HALL ERROR) so come to find out it messed up the rim when it broke off the frame!! So someone tell me to plug it into the other plug since there is two & it works!! Works fine for about two months!! Bike flys!Flys!! Speed trap sign on road, said 58mph one night when it was late I opened it up on #5. (Now!!!) When I get to 83-85% battery the bike shuts down and says "commutation error " & won't turn back on until I hook back up to charger but will only run on #1 until 76% battery then its completely dead! What's wrong? Besides hall error? Is this normal, to only get to use 20% out of the battery? That cost a $1000. I get to ride maybe 10-15 miles on a fullcharge,, is it my battery that's screwed up, or controller? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks & I hope u like the story
 

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Absolutely fascinating.

Does it say COMMUTATION or COMMUNICATION, like you said in your last thread? Those two are VERY different.

Does it still have the red motor icon in the error msg?

Put your hand on motor side cover after a shutdown. How hot?

Can you change the battery readout to give a Voltage instead of a percentage?

Did you build this battery yourself?
 
Not sure what just happened, it says communication error. No, I will loose power while riding, then it appears on the lcd screen for maybe 30secs then the screen turns off. & will not turn back on until I hook the charger up to it. "NO" I DIDNT BUILD THE BATTERY! I'm not sure if I can change that reading, when it 1st started I got ahold of the company that I bought every thing from since it was still under warranty!! They told me to ship the battery back & if it was defective they would replace it. Ok now to ship this battery to China is around $200 give or take, but knowing that something is wrong with the rear wheel, what if that's what's making it do that, & I pay $200 to ship battery and they find nothing wrong with it so ,now I have to pay 4 shipping back. I wasn't willing to take the chance.
 
Slow Down. Take a breath.

Answer Every Question.

ALL of them. Read them slowly and carefully. Use complete sentences. Use the words that are accurate.

As for changing the percentage to volts. I am not sure either, however, I do not have your equipment in front of me, I am fairly certain it CAN be done, I know for certain that if you make no effort whatsoever, it will not happen, I also know it is important and necessary to solve your problem, and I for one am absolutely disgusted with your near total lack of effort to even answer questions and reliably use the correct words to describe the problem, so my strong suggestion would be to put some serious effort into getting that done, and also ANSWERING ALL MY QUESTIONS.
 
many displays have a setting for being able to set the cutoff voltage. so that if your battery gets to the cut-off voltage it will shut off the controller to keep from damaging the battery from over-discharging. I would look to make sure you didn't somehow get the setting wrong. or make sure your display is set for the right nominal voltage for your battery..
 
So perhaps the motor is not working in hall effect? Do not know if that would seriously affect the battery discharge or not, now if the Battery voltage dips below "cutoff volltage" it will cutoff battery to protect battery as "Smutboy" sez,see if you can lower the cutout voltage.
I am not your Nanny I percieve much hurt in this thing you have created, why dont you save your money and get an electric motorcycle, the thing you have created is not, good luck.
 
Jojo and his vehicle are likely a clear and present danger to himself and those around him, on the other hand he is also very likely a potential Darwin award winner, so ... I am kinda torn.

As for the potential LVC, one triggered by the BMS shuts off ALL power immediately, no error msg, everything goes blank or dark. It does require charging for recovery.

Controller LVC usually does the same immediate shutdown, or the error msg would reflect something other than a red motor icon and "communication error". Typically you can turn back on after waiting 2-3 minutes for the battery voltage to rebound. Sometimes, you need to disconnect controller from battery for 10-30 seconds to insure it is truly "off", to reset the controller.

The "other set" of hall plugs could very well be his taillight or something. There do exist motors with dual sets of Halls, but they are not common.

I still think this is a simple overheating shutdown.

Interesting to consider that both a Halls error, and/or serious overheating, could also cause a "commutation error", which would be in the motor.

Having the motor wires forcibly ripped out on day one adds another interesting set of possibilities.
 
Interesting to consider that both a Halls error, and/or serious overheating, could also cause a "commutation error", which would be in the motor.

ya and also as voltage drops in the battery, the controller and motor needs to draw more amps at a lower voltage. so its probably overheating esp if trying to draw the max amount the motor can probably handle. and I agree the wires getting suddenly yanked out when the back wheel decided to take a trip on its own can't be good. and if the motor has enough power to rip itself out of the frame mount like that. that sounds like a Darwin award-winning combo.
 
Jojo and his vehicle are likely a clear and present danger to himself and those around him, on the other hand he is also very likely a potential Darwin award winner, so ... I am kinda torn.

As for the potential LVC, one triggered by the BMS shuts off ALL power immediately, no error msg, everything goes blank or dark. It does require charging for recovery.

Controller LVC usually does the same immediate shutdown, or the error msg would reflect something other than a red motor icon and "communication error". Typically you can turn back on after waiting 2-3 minutes for the battery voltage to rebound. Sometimes, you need to disconnect controller from battery for 10-30 seconds to insure it is truly "off", to reset the controller.

The "other set" of hall plugs could very well be his taillight or something. There do exist motors with dual sets of Halls, but they are not common.

I still think this is a simple overheating shutdown.

Interesting to consider that both a Halls error, and/or serious overheating, could also cause a "commutation error", which would be in the motor.

Having the motor wires forcibly ripped out on day one adds another interesting set of possibilities.
This kind of response doesn't help, and will drive people away.
I hope Jojomako47 returns to give more information.

 
Jojo is routinely riding a bicycle around a city doing over 50mph. His engineering skills are poor, and that vehicle is a menace to society. Do you fail to understand that, or you just don't like anybody saying it out loud?

I also want to add that such a vehicle, ridden in that manner, is a threat to the entire e-biking community.

Read his previous thread. The "information" Jojo supplies is mostly unclear, limited, and uninformed. Spinning the axle and ripping the wires out was not included in his first post, or at all in his first thread. No mention whatsoever of the error message until several posts in.

Also on the overheating, hot coils draw more amps, which cause more heat. The problem feeds itself.
 
"Do you fail to understand that, or you just don't like anybody saying it out loud?" I'll let this one go, other than pointing out that your attitude is pretty extreme, and I ask that you be a gentleman.
I read the forums to glean information about problems and fixes. I don't expect someone to post in a negative way about a member, or to police his actions or writing methods.
I can tell that you are good at diagnosing problems and you enjoy helping others. I don't understand the anger you exhibit.
 
Deal with people like Jojo, and people like you, for a couple decades. Then you will begin to understand.

You do not seem to be upset with the "menace to society" part. Just my pointing it out.

There are five people and their families who very strongly wish there had been a guy like me present at the launch of a submarine, and NOT a guy like you.

You would prefer a world where no one is told when they are wrong. That simply does not work. That method turns five people into strawberry jam. I woulda told them they are all morons and that vehicle is unsafe, and I would not at all have been pleasant or kind about it. I would continue to say it, to their surviving next of kin, and anybody who is available, whether they want to hear it or not. Because it was unsafe, and they were stupid to go on the trip. Also because there are more people willing to try the ride.

There is a time to be nice. Then, there is a time to NOT be nice.

If Jojo kills a couple kids tomorrow, would you say he was an idiot or send flowers to their funeral? Being NOT NICE might convince the next one to do a little better, and next time maybe a couple kids don't die. I am willing to be ALL FOURTEEN KINDS OF SOB for that outcome.

I have been. It works. I have seen others fail to do so. I can show you the graves that have resulted.

Now, if you are more concerned that people LIKE you, than whether or not they are dead or seriously injured, I can understand that this method is just not for you.
 
72v times 26 amps equals 1872 Watts & the hub motor is 3,000w. 15 miles on full charge is pretty good especially when using PAS 5. When the motor ripped itself out of the frame, you most likely tore a wire loose inside the hub. Your going to have to open the hub & solder/repair the damage.
Hello my name is Joseph and I'm going to start from the beginning, ok, I bought a 72V 3000W rear wheel hub kit with 72V 26ah batterie on ali-baba. Bought a brand new "GT" bike to put the kit on. ( 1st. Ebike build)! Well I get everything installed and I'm stoked, ready to take it for a ride, I'm in the drive way and turn it on& I'm thinking " s**t #3 sounds good " ( there is 5modes on lcd screen)& I turn the throttle to go & in the blink of an eye, the back wheel ripped off the back of the bike and was up by my front wheel & I'm still standing in same spot!! Literally broke right off the frame! ( because I forgot to put the torque arms on!! So now I need another bike because this brand new $550 frame is no good! So I buy a "JAMIS" off offer-up "used" I can't afford another brand new at this time. I get everything mounted on this bike and made sure to even put torque arm on both sides, and I'm ready to go for a ride and nothing screen says ( HALL ERROR) so come to find out it messed up the rim when it broke off the frame!! So someone tell me to plug it into the other plug since there is two & it works!! Works fine for about two months!! Bike flys!Flys!! Speed trap sign on road, said 58mph one night when it was late I opened it up on #5. (Now!!!) When I get to 83-85% battery the bike shuts down and says "commutation error " & won't turn back on until I hook back up to charger but will only run on #1 until 76% battery then its completely dead! What's wrong? Besides hall error? Is this normal, to only get to use 20% out of the battery? That cost a $1000. I get to ride maybe 10-15 miles on a fullcharge,, is it my battery that's screwed up, or controller? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks & I hope u like the story
 
You are likely confusing 26 amp-HOURS with momentarily available AMPS, which would be several times higher.
 
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