With these specs (wants) please help me choose a bike

[runway1]

Hi all, newbie here. I want a first ebike - gravel and/or commuter type bike. I'm older now (6ft, 210lbs) and want to cover ground with less effort. After some research, I have the following I feel I want to have. With the below in mind, what would be your top choices? Thanks for your help!!

--Under $2,300
--750w (constant) motor
--Torque sensor
--Prefer min 52v battery (might consider 48v)
--Prefer min 30a controller (might consider less)
--Prefer full suspension (might consider front only)
--Prefer ~3.0" tires. As a mechanical engineer, I see very little need for 4" tires for 98% of my riding - not to mention all that weight.

Thanks again all!

 

[runway1]

Btw...if that Wired Freedom had a torque sensor I'd snatch it up. That's the flavor of ebike I'm trying to find.

 

[HumanPerson]

Welcome to the forums!

 

[runway1]

Welcome to the forums!

Thank you!

 

[Annieolnie]

Btw...if that Wired Freedom had a torque sensor I'd snatch it up. That's the flavor of ebike I'm trying to find.

Hi, you're asking about a gravel or commuter bike but what you are describing is a bit of an off road beast. Magicycle Ocelot Pro has a 52v system, a torque sensor and 95 nm of torque. Mokwheel has a couple of bikes that might suit you but not all of them are street legal. The Obsidian is gorgeous but starts with a thousand watt motor. As for the controller it will match the motor wattage, but good luck getting anyone to tell you what it is. Atavar on these boards has a Magicycle, he could tell you what controller his bike came through with. I think what you are looking for is basically a fat tire ebike with a torque sensor. You will just have to commit to changing out the tires to three inch wide, most of them can, just double check the rim size. Let us know what you think.

 

[runway1]

Thanks, I'll check those out! Your suggestion of searching the fat tire bikes to meet what I'm looking for and then changing out the tires is a good tip. I've been noticing that when I find a bike near my specs, it tends to be a fat tire. Much appreciated!

 

[runway1]

So tentative about some of these brands that only mail order. Heard some terrible stories, including one on Ride1Up poor shipping practices and no customer service. Magicycle had some bad stories as well. Lots of money to be gambling.

Lots of folks say....stay away from the Amazon brands because this and that. Well, at least they'll protect my money, so giving that's a huge plus.

 

[runway1]

HovAlpha 26 ??

HOVSCO™ HovAlpha 26" Electric Fat Tire Bike

Hovsco's Flagship Torque Sensor Fat Tire ebike can carry you through any weather and across all terrains, great uphill capabilities, 750w Sustained Bafang Motor, 960Wh(48V 20Ah) Samsung/LG Battery with 80-mile range

www.hovsco.com

 

[Annieolnie]

Hovsco has been making hover board motors for a very long time. I have always liked their cargo bike and kept waiting for it to come down in price (it never did). They don't yet seem to be UL certified and I don't know why, although the cells they are using are certainly good quality. Ride1up has been taking some flak this year but I think the design of their bikes and the programming of their controllers is very good. They need to repackage everything to a higher standard and possibly add shipping insurance. Someone on the forum had me look into Aima, which I had never heard of before. Their components are high quality and they are committed to having bike shops, as a matter of fact, I think they are in S. CaIifornia.you might like their Big Sur, larger version. I have to say, looking can be fun, so take your time.

 

[Smaug]

Hi all, newbie here. I want a first ebike - gravel and/or commuter type bike. I'm older now (6ft, 210lbs) and want to cover ground with less effort. After some research, I have the following I feel I want to have. With the below in mind, what would be your top choices? Thanks for your help!!

--Under $2,300
--750w (constant) motor
--Torque sensor
--Prefer min 52v battery (might consider 48v)
--Prefer min 30a controller (might consider less)
--Prefer full suspension (might consider front only)
--Prefer ~3.0" tires. As a mechanical engineer, I see very little need for 4" tires for 98% of my riding - not to mention all that weight.

I think you'd be best served by saying what you want to DO and how you want to ride the eBike, rather than assuming you know the specs that will get you there. I'm an engineer too, and after reading up and getting some expensive experience, what I actually want & need is different than what I thought.

Some questions to help narrow it down:

1. Gravel/commuter. So you plan to ride on gravel and want it to also be practical in an urban area for groceries, etc.?
2. What makes you think you need/want a 750 W motor? Remember that more motor/controller power weighs and costs more, as well as requiring more battery, which adds yet more weight and cost. You may find that you do as well on a 40 lb. eBike with 250 W motor as you do on an 80 lb. eBike with a 750 W motor, and the lighter bike can be brought with you much easier and will be acceptable in more places.
3. Torque sensor is nice to have, but not mandatory. Still, it's not unreasonable in your budget. A well-done programmed cadence sensor is 85% as nice. Cadence sensors are actually better above 20 mph too, as they don't require a massive effort to keep you going at those speeds.
4. The 52 V battery is better for speeds above 20. However, if you're like me, you'll not find yourself above 20 as much as you imagine now.
5. Full suspension is another heavy feature. Having semi-fat tires and a quality suspension seatpost is preferable, in my experience, as you can't get quality rear suspension in your budget.
6. I agree that 3" tires are a good compromise IF you'll be riding in gravel & dirt often enough. Otherwise, something in the 2.5" range with a street tread is better. MUCH less rolling resistance, and then less power & battery are needed. It's rewarding because you'll often find yourself pedaling without power, when you're not in a hurry or going uphill. With a big, inefficient fat knobby bike, you really are a lot more range limited, because pedaling unpowered is either very slow or just unreasonable. My first eBike was a heybike Ranger; a 20x4" fat knobby tire folding eBike. I could only pedal it at around 10 mph on the flat. Any faster and it was using significant power. It was too heavy to lift into a vehicle, so the folding aspect was of limited use. If you have a pick-up with a ramp or heavy-duty hitch-mounted rack, it might be a different story...

So tentative about some of these brands that only mail order. Heard some terrible stories, including one on Ride1Up poor shipping practices and no customer service. Magicycle had some bad stories as well. Lots of money to be gambling.

I had a Ride1Up (Portola) and there were excellent in after sale support. No problems with their shipping practice, either. Just be nice and have reasonable expectations and try not to act entitled and they'll take care of you. I liked that bike SO much. It just needed street tires. Too small for you though. I could barely get full leg extension and I'm only 5'8 w/ 30" inseam.

I arranged for my stepdaughter's boyfriend (now ex) to scrape his $600 together to buy a Commuter, and it has been an iffy bike. Constant flats. It's hard to track down since he's kind of dopey and has 3 brothers who also take it out. Who knows what's happening to the poor thing!?

Lots of folks say....stay away from the Amazon brands because this and that. Well, at least they'll protect my money, so giving that's a huge plus.

Amazon is iffy at this, these days. They will follow up on your behalf, but don't seem to enforce anything. I'd put more faith in my credit card company protecting me than Amazon.

To help me help you, Check out the Aventon Level.2 and let me know what it won't do that you want/need it to do.

 

[runway1]

I think you'd be best served by saying what you want to DO and how you want to ride the eBike, rather than assuming you know the specs that will get you there. I'm an engineer too, and after reading up and getting some expensive experience, what I actually want & need is different than what I thought.

Good point. Need performance requirements beforen the system requirements

Some questions to help narrow it down:

1. Gravel/commuter. So you plan to ride on gravel and want it to also be practical in an urban area for groceries, etc.?

I would ride 85% road with some hills and 15% light dirt trails like established hiking paths.

1. What makes you think you need/want a 750 W motor? Remember that more motor/controller power weighs and costs more, as well as requiring more battery, which adds yet more weight and cost. You may find that you do as well on a 40 lb. eBike with 250 W motor as you do on an 80 lb. eBike with a 750 W motor, and the lighter bike can be brought with you much easier and will be acceptable in more places.

I understand. Given only road bike experience, I'm in the system requirements as a best estimation I'm in the aerospace industry. More performance, more margin, more better.

1. Torque sensor is nice to have, but not mandatory. Still, it's not unreasonable in your budget. A well-done programmed cadence sensor is 85% as nice. Cadence sensors are actually better above 20 mph too, as they don't require a massive effort to keep you going at those speeds.

I'm in the <30 camp, mostly 15-25

1. The 52 V battery is better for speeds above 20. However, if you're like me, you'll not find yourself above 20 as much as you imagine now.
2. Full suspension is another heavy feature. Having semi-fat tires and a quality suspension seatpost is preferable, in my experience, as you can't get quality rear suspension in your budget.

I like the seatpost approach, as opposed to the active suspension. Cheaper, more simple, lighter and effective

1. I agree that 3" tires are a good compromise IF you'll be riding in gravel & dirt often enough. Otherwise, something in the 2.5" range with a street tread is better. MUCH less rolling resistance, and then less power & battery are needed. It's rewarding because you'll often find yourself pedaling without power, when you're not in a hurry or going uphill. With a big, inefficient fat knobby bike, you really are a lot more range limited, because pedaling unpowered is either very slow or just unreasonable. My first eBike was a heybike Ranger; a 20x4" fat knobby tire folding eBike. I could only pedal it at around 10 mph on the flat. Any faster and it was using significant power. It was too heavy to lift into a vehicle, so the folding aspect was of limited use. If you have a pick-up with a ramp or heavy-duty hitch-mounted rack, it might be a different story...

Yup. 2.5-3.0 will work well

I had a Ride1Up (Portola) and there were excellent in after sale support. No problems with their shipping practice, either. Just be nice and have reasonable expectations and try not to act entitled and they'll take care of you. I liked that bike SO much. It just needed street tires. Too small for you though. I could barely get full leg extension and I'm only 5'8 w/ 30" inseam.

I arranged for my stepdaughter's boyfriend (now ex) to scrape his $600 together to buy a Commuter, and it has been an iffy bike. Constant flats. It's hard to track down since he's kind of dopey and has 3 brothers who also take it out. Who knows what's happening to the poor thing!?



Amazon is iffy at this, these days. They will follow up on your behalf, but don't seem to enforce anything. I'd put more faith in my credit card company protecting me than Amazon.

To help me help you, Check out the Aventon Level.2 and let me know what it won't do that you want/need it to do.

Agreed. Both the ride1up and Aventon are on my list

 

[Smaug]

I would ride 85% road with some hills and 15% light dirt trails like established hiking paths.

I understand. Given only road bike experience, I'm in the system requirements as a best estimation I'm in the aerospace industry. More performance, more margin, more better.

I'm in the <30 camp, mostly 15-25

I like the seatpost approach, as opposed to the active suspension. Cheaper, more simple, lighter and effective

Yup. 2.5-3.0 will work well

Agreed. Both the ride1up and Aventon are on my list

I'm thinking of a few possible directions here:

1. FAST, EFFICIENT (but forward-leaning) OPTION: An electric gravel bike. This would feel familiar to your road bike, but with a bit meatier tires, sturdier frame and able to mount rack & fenders. It would be much more efficient than the upright urban eBikes typically seen on this site. Unpowered on flat pavement, you'll have no problem going 15 mph. Engage motor drive to go faster, climb hills or fight headwinds. On a humble 36 V power system, 100 mile range is not out of the question. They have shock absorbing stems now for the hands, and of course the suspension seat posts.
   
   I just ordered a Yamaha Wabash RT at 60% off through their current promotion for <$1700. It has nice powerful electronics, but lower-end bike hardware than something like a Trek costing twice as much.
   
   Ride1UP makes the CF Racer at the top of your budget, but it's carbon fiber instead of aluminum, so will have some shock absorption built into the frame. Not sure about rack & fender mounts; I don't see any at a glance. It is sleeker than the Yamaha on account of having a hub motor instead of mid-drive and having the battery integrated into the downtube.
   
   Either of these bikes are going to be light enough to load on whatever a conventional bike rack you have or roll it into the back of your SUV fully assembled.
2. UPRIGHT UTILITY OPTION (inefficient, but inexpensive) : Lectric XP 3.0 offers a lot for a grand, esp. in terms of cargo options and other accessories. Unpowered, you'll be pedaling around 12 mph on the flat. Check out the impressive load rating of the integral rear rack. Cadence sensor. Inherently secure, as the key is needed for "ignition", not just battery removal. Battery goes inside the downtube and is not quick or easy to get out, but if it's garage stored, you will only likely do that once or twice a year. 20x3" semi-fat tires. Maybe replace the tires with street tread down the line.
3. NICER UTILITY OPTION: Lectric ONE. 20x3" street tread, but will give enough traction if it's not muddy or deep on account of being 3" wide. Belt drive, with Pinion gearbox. Not as efficient rolling as something with 70 cm wheels, but it has the advantage of being able to roll right in the back of a station wagon or SUV when you fold down the handlebar and lower the seat. This one's at the top of your budget. I'm drooling over this one, as I just am sick of chain and shifter maintenance, and this bike would have near-zero of both of these things. No suspension fork. (yet, they're allegedly working on one)
4. URBAN UTILITY OPTION: Aventon Level 2 (forward lean, $1700) or Pace 500.3. (more upright) The Pace would require you to add rack & fenders separately, but if you want to sit upright, it's a better option. With an upright bike, shocks in the road will go up your spine instead of into your hands and wrists. Either of these will roll much more efficiently on pavement than the Lectrics previously mentioned, but won't be as easy to transport in your vehicle. (maybe that doesn't matter to you) Either of these is comfortably in your budget. I just noticed Aventon prices are up a couple hundred bucks. I'm thinking they raised them so they can discount them for Black Friday.
5. BUDGET-STRETCHER OPTION: ($2600) Ride1UP Prodigy V2 w/ belt drive. I can't overstate how nice belt drive is. The belt drive model has an internal gear hub, which is also low maintenance, compared to derailleur.

The heavier, bigger-tired models feel like regular bikes pedaling around, except when you're lifting them or pedaling uphill.

As I mentioned before, I have an Aventon Level.2 and have written an extensive review thread on it in the Commuter Bikes subforum here.

If I were to do it again with today's options and at today's prices, I'd probably get the Prodigy V2.

 

[runway1]

I'm thinking of a few possible directions here:

1. FAST, EFFICIENT (but forward-leaning) OPTION: An electric gravel bike. This would feel familiar to your road bike, but with a bit meatier tires, sturdier frame and able to mount rack & fenders. It would be much more efficient than the upright urban eBikes typically seen on this site. Unpowered on flat pavement, you'll have no problem going 15 mph. Engage motor drive to go faster, climb hills or fight headwinds. On a humble 36 V power system, 100 mile range is not out of the question. They have shock absorbing stems now for the hands, and of course the suspension seat posts.
   
   I just ordered a Yamaha Wabash RT at 60% off through their current promotion for <$1700. It has nice powerful electronics, but lower-end bike hardware than something like a Trek costing twice as much.
   
   Ride1UP makes the CF Racer at the top of your budget, but it's carbon fiber instead of aluminum, so will have some shock absorption built into the frame. Not sure about rack & fender mounts; I don't see any at a glance. It is sleeker than the Yamaha on account of having a hub motor instead of mid-drive and having the battery integrated into the downtube.

WOW. Here I was set on a hub config (cheaper, first bike, simpler) and now you're making me think. That Yamaha shows $1814 with tax for me. Makes you think how they can discount that deep. Whatta deal. I guess their operation is just way different from a hub drive...right? Meaning, only a 250w nominal motor with a 36v battery....with 11 gears. Are these bikes intended to have much more rider input? I'm unsure why mid-drive architecture is so different from hub drive? I guess I need to do more reading

1. 
   
   Either of these bikes are going to be light enough to load on whatever a conventional bike rack you have or roll it into the back of your SUV fully assembled.
2. UPRIGHT UTILITY OPTION (inefficient, but inexpensive) : Lectric XP 3.0 offers a lot for a grand, esp. in terms of cargo options and other accessories. Unpowered, you'll be pedaling around 12 mph on the flat. Check out the impressive load rating of the integral rear rack. Cadence sensor. Inherently secure, as the key is needed for "ignition", not just battery removal. Battery goes inside the downtube and is not quick or easy to get out, but if it's garage stored, you will only likely do that once or twice a year. 20x3" semi-fat tires. Maybe replace the tires with street tread down the line.
3. NICER UTILITY OPTION: Lectric ONE. 20x3" street tread, but will give enough traction if it's not muddy or deep on account of being 3" wide. Belt drive, with Pinion gearbox. Not as efficient rolling as something with 70 cm wheels, but it has the advantage of being able to roll right in the back of a station wagon or SUV when you fold down the handlebar and lower the seat. This one's at the top of your budget. I'm drooling over this one, as I just am sick of chain and shifter maintenance, and this bike would have near-zero of both of these things. No suspension fork. (yet, they're allegedly working on one)

I read how great the Lectric bikes are, but I just don't like that look. Sorry but that small frame, small tire, with a big price tag just isn't for me.

1. URBAN UTILITY OPTION: Aventon Level 2 (forward lean, $1700) or Pace 500.3. (more upright) The Pace would require you to add rack & fenders separately, but if you want to sit upright, it's a better option. With an upright bike, shocks in the road will go up your spine instead of into your hands and wrists. Either of these will roll much more efficiently on pavement than the Lectrics previously mentioned, but won't be as easy to transport in your vehicle. (maybe that doesn't matter to you) Either of these is comfortably in your budget. I just noticed Aventon prices are up a couple hundred bucks. I'm thinking they raised them so they can discount them for Black Friday.
2. BUDGET-STRETCHER OPTION: ($2600) Ride1UP Prodigy V2 w/ belt drive. I can't overstate how nice belt drive is. The belt drive model has an internal gear hub, which is also low maintenance, compared to derailleur.

L2 is definitely on my shortlist. I like the V2, but my earlier concern is shared here....and the price

The heavier, bigger-tired models feel like regular bikes pedaling around, except when you're lifting them or pedaling uphill.

As I mentioned before, I have an Aventon Level.2 and have written an extensive review thread on it in the Commuter Bikes subforum here.

If I were to do it again with today's options and at today's prices, I'd probably get the Prodigy V2.

Other two bikes I was thinking are the HOVSCO HovAlpha & Mokwheel Obsidian. Any thoughts there?

THANK YOU FOR THE EXCELLENT INPUTS!

 

[Annieolnie]

Not to further confuse you, but have you checked out Area13? He runs a bike shop and makes YouTube videos. I only mention it because he sells a number of bikes that look like the Wired Freedom and some of them have torque sensors. He also lists his torque sensors in his parts dept. It is unusual for a seller to understand that is a part that might need to be replaced. Also, please read the other threads on the Wabash before you head in that direction. Smaug has guts. You don't want to start out with a bike that might become a Rubik's Cube, just sayin'.

 

[runway1]

I like that Ariel 13. Just seems no different than my primary choices around same price. Also, no suspension and the bolt-on look on the down tube seems awkward compared to the others.

I tend to agree on mid-drive....based on my own ignorance...don't want to jump into a corvette z06 when I'm looking for a mustang

 

[Hozer]

My suggestion to you runway1 is what ever ebike you buy try to buy your Ebike on Ebay. Why? Most ebike sellers say you get a 1 year warranty. If you have an issue with your ebike Ebay can force the seller to fix what ever the issue is if the seller sez no.

Just FYI

 

[Atavar]

My suggestion to you runway1 is what ever ebike you buy try to buy your Ebike on Ebay. Why? Most ebike sellers say you get a 1 year warranty. If you have an issue with your ebike Ebay can force the seller to fix what ever the issue is if the seller sez no.

Just FYI

Only if the seller is still in business and available.

 

[Rawly Old]

Btw...if that Wired Freedom had a torque sensor I'd snatch it up. That's the flavor of ebike I'm trying to find.

Haven't ridden mine yet, just some personalizing, rear rack is annoying. I'm 6'2" & still whack my knee
throwing a leg over, had to get a different post for my Brooks. Put some foam taped on that rack.
Still working up the nerve to ride it, With 153nm, I don't think you'd really need a torque sensor.

 

[Blake]

I’ve been looking at the Velotric Discover 2. You may want to check that out too.

 

[Annieolnie]

I like that Ariel 13. Just seems no different than my primary choices around same price. Also, no suspension and the bolt-on look on the down tube seems awkward compared to the others.

I tend to agree on mid-drive....based on my own ignorance...don't want to jump into a corvette z06 when I'm looking for a mustang

I think there is also something going on with the higher end bike companies. You buy a Yamaha or a Specialized and you need a crucial part, it is back ordered 'til the next millennium, whereas the slightly lower end companies, more prone to selling to DIYers and wanting to keep them happy, are making sure their parts are available. Need a Heybike wiring harness, it's right there on their site because they are assuming you will do the install. It is odd but it is something to consider.