Upcoming Road Trip w/two eBikes: Specific Advice wanted

What should I do for the 2nd eBike

  • Buy another folding eBike

  • Save the money, and put a full size eBike bike in the back, piling luggage on/under it if needed

  • Put the full size eBike on your strap-on rear rack, removing it each time you need to open the back

  • Take your single speed folding acoustic bike and struggle/walk as needed. You're a strong cyclist!

  • Bring a (non-folding) acoustic bike for the rear strap-on rack, let the wife ride the XP Lite.

  • Other (refer to typed response)


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But it costs the same as this: You are making it very hard to live through you vicariously.:shrug:
By the way, I'm a cyclist too, not just an eBiker. Last year, I put 3X as many miles on my muggle bikes as eBikes! (the bike miles further down include the eBike miles)

eBike Miles in 2024:
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Total Bike Miles in 2024:
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More in my Strava profile:
https://www.strava.com/athletes/120040584
 
Not sure the Shimano Alfine 8 IGH would hold up to the extra torque...


I had one of those; it got stolen in 2024 in CO Springs. (more on the ownership & theft here) Good bike, but heavy, like most multi-speed folding bikes. At 60 lbs, it's a bit lighter than the XP 3.0 and is a bit more compact when folded. I had to have the seat all the way up to get full leg extension, and my inseam is only 30". There was a time when I was thinking of simplifying my life and replacing my Level.2 with it, but the Level.2 just rolls so much more efficiently, between the bigger wheels narrower tires and more forward-leaned posture.

The Priority Folder is not light for a muggle bike, but at 30 lbs, it's a LOT lighter than these folding eBikes I've been considering.

I hesitate to admit this now, as it's really a 1st world problem, but I have enough eBikes now that keeping the batteries properly cared-for is getting to be a low level stressor!
I remember your Portola thread. When I was a teenager and didn't have a car, an older friend of mine had a moped and would tow me on my analog bike, to any place crucial I needed to be. If you go with the Priority Folder you might want to toss a rope in the car for the LectricXP in case the Colorado mountain winds kick up. Just be careful on the steep downhills though, it's very easy to start resembling a Wiley Coyote cartoon if you start passing your tow bike. :)
 
Three more options for acoustic folders, this time at Amazon. (as I have some kickbacks to spend there and I also get 3% back on purchases made there with their credit card)

ZiZZO Forte: ($550)
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According to something I found on Reddit, this is a good value brand these days, better value than Dahon. This is their heavy duty folder; it has a higher weight rating, from what I can tell it's all down to it having a steel fork instead of aluminum. Someone from ZiZZO replies in the folding bikes subreddit now and then, which I think is impressive. Here are my thoughts on it:

+ Uses mainstream bike components (repairable/upgradeable down the line)
+ Steel fork is worth its added weight, compared to aluminum, I think, as it adds a bit of strength and springiness
+ Includes rack & fenders
+ Includes "hogs nose" for mounting Brompton-type bags to the front
+ Good price, but not so low that I suspect it's a piece of poop
+/- Not the same grade as the Priority mentioned above, but more efficient due to chain & derailleur vs. IGH

Schwinn Loop: ($460)
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+ Simpler design: one-piece stem/bar and integrated rear rack. Kind of like a modern version of the European folders of the 70s.
+ Highly-reviewed over hundreds of reviews!
- Seems to be a "Schwinn" (Walmart Schwinn, not Bike Shop Schwinn; and DEFINITELY not a Chicago Schwinn)
- Crap seat, by all accounts
- No-name derailleur
- Plastic folding pedals
- Costs more than the (following) name brand Dahon!


Dahon Dream D6: ($400)
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+ Name brand folding bike
+ Costs less than the "Schwinn", but same 4.5* user reviews
+ Name brand derailleur
+ Mud flaps on fenders
+ More modern styling
+ Better seat
+/- Telescopeing stem: Will give more range of adjustment, but will be flimsier
- Rack looks decidedly lighter-duty
- Rack seems to lack a tail light mounting bracket (!)

What are your thoughts on THESE three? (if you'll bear with me going OT re. eBikes for a minute...)
 
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Not sure the Shimano Alfine 8 IGH would hold up to the extra torque...
It would not hold up under an unrestricted BBSHD. I have a BBSHD tune that limits power output to about 400w at the max PAS level of 9 so de-tuning an '02 would be easy. Same goes for the settings that eliminate all abuse of the drivetrain.

The real issue would be ensuring straight chainline. Gates has a couple of rear sprockets that make this fairly straightforward when coupled to a washer or two up front. But you'd have to spend the time doing it.

In an entirely different vein, a front motor gives you easy install and leg-powered awd, which is probably a much smarter direction to go in for this light duty bike. A little AKM75 motor would look like a normal hub, and its 36v/250w would be well suited to the light duty cycle of the bike. It would of course have all the limitations of a hub motor in hills, but you are creating a packable vacation bike and that is a compromise you probably can live with just fine.
 
There is a Schwinn Loop for sale used locally for $120; I'm going to look at it tomorrow night.
 
+/- Not the same grade as the Priority mentioned above, but more efficient due to chain & derailleur vs. IGH
I don't know if you've ever had a bike with a belt+igh, but I did for awhile and I was positively in love with that feature. No grease. Worked great for what it was (a 3spd). Would be especially nice on a bike you are stuffing into a car with other stuff. If I had a choice between belt and chain/derailleur I'd try and find a way to go belt. A light duty folder seems like the perfect candidate. YMMV of course.
 
I don't know if you've ever had a bike with a belt+igh, but I did for awhile and I was positively in love with that feature. No grease. Worked great for what it was (a 3spd). Would be especially nice on a bike you are stuffing into a car with other stuff. If I had a choice between belt and chain/derailleur I'd try and find a way to go belt. A light duty folder seems like the perfect candidate. YMMV of course.
My gravel bike is belt + IGH. I love the cleanliness and low (not zero) maintenance. But I also notice the lower efficiency, compared to a chain/derailleur gravel bike. One one hand, this won't be intended to be a fast bike, but on the other, it's already taking a hit to efficiency due to having 20" wheels...

What do you think of the Fuji Origami 1.1? Tuckahoe Bike Shop has a used one and they do ship.
It's beautiful. However, the "as-is" comment from a New Jersey retailer without a detailed description and photos has me shying away. Zooming in on the pic, I don't think it has rack mounting bosses. Thanks for keeping your eyes open for me!
 
You are welcome. I liked the look of the frame. It has some nice bracing. I'm pretty sure they are reputable. I've heard of them, but buying any bike sight unseen is tricky.
 
If you find a bike you like that doesn't have rack fittings, don't let that stop you. There are a number of adapter brackets for seatposts and hubs.
The lack of proper fender mounts is more concerning. I can just carry a bag on the rare times I'll use the bike.
I have clip-on fenders on my gravel bike, and they work fine for it, but I wouldn't think they'd be feasible on a folder.
 
I've bolted a piece of plexiglass under a rear rack as a fender and that has worked fine,
I have done thin flexible plastic cutting board along with an mtb mudguard which is essentially made of the same flexible material. This is just one of many versions I have frankenstein'd up. I never use traditional fenders and I stay dry from water coming up off the ground at me, at least. Just rode thru a torrential downpour two days ago... and it looks like I get to repeat the process today. I took this pic yesterday.

Look at the back. That plastic fender has been extended with white gorilla tape (another key DIY fender ingredient as its weather proof and flexible). You can do without the bit of bent metal center strip that acts as a butt-shield to eliminate water spray, but you can see the flexible plastic underneath. That flexibility lets me lift it up and hook panniers on.

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but I don't know what you could do for the front.
And look a the front. That is a 20" SKS Rowdy fender. Just the forward half, with the bayonet mount upside down so it sits high for when I had a 3.0 tire on that wheel. For the back half, which is extremely low clearance, I did another mtb mud guard. The SKS requires a fork bridge bolt hole, but if there isn't one, you can take that rear mud guard and put another one facing forward (or repurpose a single big rear one). Super thin so minimal clearance issues. Then you extend it with more gorilla tape. I've done that on other bikes for the front wheel. Cost is also next to nothing with mud guards. On this one, I extended the front fender to the rear so it overlapped the body fender. Later, I extended it forward with more tape, too. On the back you can see its extended forward all the way to the bottom bracket, and I used some flexible cutting board plastic to give it shape for such a long reach.

IMG_20190907_175307.jpg
 
I like that front fender. Do you think it would work on a 20 inch wheel, folder?
The SKS? If the bike has the usual standard bolt hole at the fork crown, yes. Otherwise I would go with a rear flexible mudguard and put it on the front.

You can also stack two fenders facing in opposite directions rather than using a big rear one. The problem I found is the little front mudguards are not long enough in the front even when reversed, and water comes forward off the tire. Thanks to your forward motion, water sprays up and your face runs into it. Not a mistake you make twice. The Rowdy has that nice downward curve so even if I am running it up high like in that pic it still keeps spray from happening.
 
I picked up the Schwinn Loop last night; it was a further drive than I remembered: 1:20 each way; didn't get back until late.
  • The chain is as rusty as can be
  • Brake levers need adjusting, they pull almost all the way to the grips. Pads have plenty of live and aren't hard.
  • The wheels are true
  • It folds fine; nice & compact and light compared to even my XP Lite.
  • The chain bunches up if I try to backpedal; I'm thinking due to the extra friction in the chain
  • It's geared pretty low, due to a small chainring for a folder with 20" wheels; I think it's top speed is about like the single speed on the Dahon Boardwalk S1. The low gear is VERY low; this will be great for climbing and headwinds.
I'm going to wire brush the chain to get most of the rust off, and then oil it up with cheap oil. When it gets dirty or starts squeaking again, I'll put the quality lube on it that dries dry.

Pix coming soon, after its spa day.
 
I spent a couple hours in the garage tonight working on the Loop:
  • Brushed a bunch of rust off the chain. You should’ve SEEN the orange cloud!
  • Oiled the chain
  • Adjusted the brakes
  • Adjusted the shifting
  • Cleaned the frame and rear wheel
  • Applied Vibra-tite to the main hinge clamps and tightened them
  • Inflated the tires from 23 to 55 psi
I went for a ride around the block afterwards. There’s a bit of play in the stem clamp, but nothing ridiculous.

It’s indeed geared pretty low. I estimate top gear is good for about 16 mph. I think it’ll be perfect.

Rear brake cable is pretty jacked-up:
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Woo, that’a a lot of rust!
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A “fancy” Shimano derailleur!
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Adjusting the brakes:
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Pretty good for $120:
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