This problem contoller can you figure out whats wrong

[Kilojade]

Long story but I have had 2 of these controllers both had the same problem. So what happens is every now and then the controller will stop working it does this see link for video. So I found a combination of phase and hall wires that works perfectly. But then after a week or a month or so it will stop working again and back to that video i then swap the wires back to original and it then works fine lol. But happens again! only a week or month or so later Then back to swapping wires back to as in pic. Man it’s a head burn. Both controllers are the same same combo of wires to make work. This problem doesn’t happen when riding only when turned off then back on problem is there. I ended up buying a brand new wheel thinking it was that and it wasn’t controllers do exact same thing. I then tried a different battery and it’s the same so it can only be the controller causing the problem

My batt is a 52v, wheels 2000w.

Really wana try figure out what’s happening but wondering if anyone else has this problem with this controller?

https://www.kapwing.com/videos/669e141ac1f1cba3c29866e1

 

[major masingil]

That is a weird problem. When you say different combinations of wires, i am assuming you're talking about which things the wires are connected to and not the physical routing of the wires. The first thing i will say is you need to insulate your twisted wires from each other, or you'll have problems. The wrong one of those bare wire touching another or touching the housing of the motor, even for a fraction of a second, could cause the issues you're discussing. Once you figure the wiring out, be sure to solder or crimp the wires to the connector and try to weatherproof it.

Have you ever noticed the state charge of your battery when this situation occurs? What does arranging the hall and phase wires differently accomplish? Are you arranging them based on a factory wiring diagram and then modifying that to improve performance? Are you trying to figure out how to make the controller work with your motor without a wiring diagram? Does it always stop working when you have the wires arranged in a specific way, or will it stop with either wiring scheme?

My knee jerk thought is that the things you're connecting the wires to are going outside of their working voltage / resistance tolerances. I don't have any hub motors though. am not speaking from a place of knowledge about your specific issue, but I'm interested in the problem.

 

[Kilojade]

That is a weird problem. When you say different combinations of wires, i am assuming you're talking about which things the wires are connected to and not the physical routing of the wires. The first thing i will say is you need to insulate your twisted wires from each other, or you'll have problems. The wrong one of those bare wire touching another or touching the housing of the motor, even for a fraction of a second, could cause the issues you're discussing. Once you figure the wiring out, be sure to solder or crimp the wires to the connector and try to weatherproof it.

Have you ever noticed the state charge of your battery when this situation occurs? What does arranging the hall and phase wires differently accomplish? Are you arranging them based on a factory wiring diagram and then modifying that to improve performance? Are you trying to figure out how to make the controller work with your motor without a wiring diagram? Does it always stop working when you have the wires arranged in a specific way, or will it stop with either wiring scheme?

My knee jerk thought is that the things you're connecting the wires to are going outside of their working voltage / resistance tolerances. I don't have any hub motors though. am not speaking from a place of knowledge about your specific issue, but I'm interested in the problem.

Hi mate. Ye difference combo of wires from hall sensor and phase wires to the controller. It’s a known issue to swap them around if doesn’t work. Some pics online of diagrams of different combos….Ye I fully tape up all wires ect make sure everting crimped solid. I did notice the connector block melted a little but I have since used a heavy duty 1 didn’t melt but same problem. There isn’t even any error codes on the display either and battery voltage always the same no problems with battery.

There is only 2 combos that work the correct colour match way and that way in pic I tried about 30 other combos. But that combo may only work for a day or a month! Then it’s back to swapping combo. Nothing inside controller is burnt either.

I have spoke to a few guys who convert these bikes and sell them, all said never have problems with these controllers saying there the best about. And they haven’t any idea why mine is doing this. 1 guy said it’s like to much voltage might be causing it but with there builds there’s are fine

 

[HumanPerson]

sometimes things go wrong at the manufacturer....just sayin..

Could be fauly wiring on the circuit board inside the controller...could be a slightly cracked circuit board...
Might be terrible soldering or some components inside the controller on the circuit board trying to go out on ye...

Are all of the settings correct..like the battery settings and the low voltage cutoff?

Even other settings could be causing this it would seem to me...

Keep us posted mate!

 

[Kilojade]

I think I have just found the bloody problem! After all this time I have only just got into the advanced settings and the current is set to 150a!! Wow I bet that’s what causing the controller to malfunction I have just set it back down to 45a will see if it plays up again hoping this is the problem 2 controllers 2 wheels later

 

[HumanPerson]

try setting it at 30 and you might be surprised
DOH! 45a.. i forgot i seen that LOL

 

[HumanPerson]

is that a sabvaton?

http://www.mqcontroller.com/
http://www.mqcontroller.com/list/?classid=4

 

[HumanPerson]

So keep us up to date on yur progress and post up some pics mate!

 

[Kilojade]

I think I have just found the bloody problem! After all this time I have only just got into the advanced settings and the current is set to 150a!! Wow I bet that’s what causing the controller to malfunction I have just set it back down to 45a will see if it plays up again hoping this is the problem 2 controllers 2 wheels later

 

[Kilojade]

Not sure mate it’s just this controller https://ebikesolution.co.uk/products/electric-bicycle-controller-model-72v-45a-sine-wave

Just hope there now not damaged by running it at 150a lol but it’s working fine now so will see.

I set it to 45a as that’s what the controller is. Still does 40mph. So speed hasn’t changed since dropping to 45a

 

[HumanPerson]

ok that's the NBP, which MQCON makes and they are just branded as NBP.

there is alot you can do with that. look through this guys vids ..he has some on that controller..

https://www.youtube.com/@E-bikeguy/videos

 

[Kilojade]

ok that's the NBP, which MQCON makes and they are just branded as NBP.

there is alot you can do with that. look through this guys vids ..he has some on that controller..

https://www.youtube.com/@E-bikeguy/videos

Thanks mate

 

[HumanPerson]

Thanks mate

Yur welcome!

 

[Hoggdoc]

Not sure mate it’s just this controller https://ebikesolution.co.uk/products/electric-bicycle-controller-model-72v-45a-sine-wave

Just hope there now not damaged by running it at 150a lol but it’s working fine now so will see.

I set it to 45a as that’s what the controller is. Still does 40mph. So speed hasn’t changed since dropping to 45a

Chances are the BMS in your battery would not allow 150 A from the battery through the controller. That is assuming that you have a battery pack that has a BMS.

 

[Cronovin]

That is a weird problem. When you say different combinations of wires, i am assuming you're talking about which things the wires are connected to and not the physical routing of the wires. The first thing i will say is you need to insulate your twisted wires from each other, or you'll have problems. The wrong one of those bare wire touching another or touching the housing of the motor, even for a fraction of a second, could cause the issues you're discussing. Once you figure the wiring out, be sure to solder or crimp the wires to the connector and try to weatherproof it.

Have you ever noticed the state charge of your battery when this situation occurs? What does arranging the hall and phase wires differently accomplish? Are you arranging them based on a factory wiring diagram and then modifying that to improve performance? Are you trying to figure out how to make the controller work with your motor without a wiring diagram? Does it always stop working when you have the wires arranged in a specific way, or will it stop with either wiring scheme?

My knee jerk thought is that the things you're connecting the wires to are going outside of their working voltage / resistance tolerances. I don't have any hub motors though. am not speaking from a place of knowledge about your specific issue, but I'm interested in the problem.