Ridstar Q20 fork replacement - any suggestions?

Damn! Welp son you have quite the gash there, i'd tell the girls it was from a ramp jump ;)

Will send yur Son some positive vibes!

Looks like my grandson after the lawnmower down the hill. :oops:
Now you know why I’m not happy . If it were just some scrapes I wouldn’t even have posted . But he got beat up pretty badly and I’m not happy about it .
 
So, I guess this has been happening...
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they are recommending people go to a 34mm shaft and get a wider race put in, but I don't know if I would go with their's, after all of this has happened.
 
This is a through axle , again I’m at a loss for how it happened other than the nut backing off somehow
My understanding is that a "thru axel" refers to a configuration where the axel goes not just through the wheel hub but also through a round opening in the fork down-tubes as opposed to slotted into the drop outs.

I believe this low quality product has inadequate front wheel mounting hardware. Out of the box I could not tighten the axel nuts without causing the wheel to bind and stop spinning. The rear wheel did not have this problem and was tightened properly. With the new forks I was able to piece together new spacers, washers and nuts that allowed me to tighten the axel correctly. Along with blue thread-lock! It's on good now!
Also, I gave Nick a lesson in pre-ride checks!

Good luck to your son! Nick got some good road rash but fortunately no facial or head injuries.
 
Something I have noticed on new vs old bikes is that older bikes used to have retainer ridges or flanges on the dropouts that kept the wheel from coming off unless the nuts were backed off a huge amount, like >1/4” each.
On newer bikes this feature seems to have been eradicated, making it much easier to lose a wheel.
 
My thru axle has no dropouts. To lose a wheel, that axle has to slide out and come off. If people are doing extreme maneuvers I don't know why they don't make the wheel with an axle bolt on there. A castle bolt would be the strongest because you can lock it with a cotter. For now, maybe upgrading the thru axle would help. I was trying to see what they use for BMX because kids pull a lot of manuals, but I did find this company that seems to machine threaded axles to a higher standard.
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I've busted my chin open like that at least 3 times. Last time I was standing up pedaling hard and fast and my chain slipped ... wham ... over the bars straight into the dirt. One was from a street fight. One was in the infantry. Good times. Tricky shaving. :LOL:
 
I noticed the stock front axle of my ebike had a 1.25mm thread pitch. I replaced it with an axle with a 1.00mm thread pitch, which is less prone to inadvertent loosening. I also check the bolts are tight on a regular basis.

I did have a rear wheel come off a few months ago. Luckily there was no damage to either the bike or myself. The power connector was ripped out, but just had to be plugged in again. I've been really careful to check everything since then.
 
I noticed the stock front axle of my ebike had a 1.25mm thread pitch. I replaced it with an axle with a 1.00mm thread pitch, which is less prone to inadvertent loosening. I also check the bolts are tight on a regular basis.

I did have a rear wheel come off a few months ago. Luckily there was no damage to either the bike or myself. The power connector was ripped out, but just had to be plugged in again. I've been really careful to check everything since then.
Most of the axles on these bikes are threaded into the opposite side of the fork, so you really can't change thread pitch.
 
I noticed the stock front axle of my ebike had a 1.25mm thread pitch. I replaced it with an axle with a 1.00mm thread pitch, which is less prone to inadvertent loosening. I also check the bolts are tight on a regular basis.

I did have a rear wheel come off a few months ago. Luckily there was no damage to either the bike or myself. The power connector was ripped out, but just had to be plugged in again. I've been really careful to check everything since then.
Just curious, what led you to discover a .25mm difference in thread pitch? And also, as a newbie here, what IS thread pitch? I am familiar with threads-per-inch, but pitch??
 
I discovered the difference when I tried to thread a nut from one axle onto the other, and noticed it didn't fit. Looking more closely, it was obvious that one thread was visibly finer than the other. I used my vernier callipers to measure the threads/inch.

I'm in Europe. Maybe 'pitch' isn't a term that is commonly used in the USA to describe thread sizes? To me, threads/inch is a measure of 'pitch'.
 
We have pitch in the US. If threads get closer together it will change their angle, hence pitch, otherwise considered the steepness of a slope.
 
I discovered the difference when I tried to thread a nut from one axle onto the other, and noticed it didn't fit. Looking more closely, it was obvious that one thread was visibly finer than the other. I used my vernier callipers to measure the threads/inch.

I'm in Europe. Maybe 'pitch' isn't a term that is commonly used in the USA to describe thread sizes? To me, threads/inch is a measure of 'pitch'.
Got it! Basically a difference in terminology. Maybe I should spend more time in Europe! Wonder what else I could learn!!! Thanks.
 
Got it! Basically a difference in terminology. Maybe I should spend more time in Europe! Wonder what else I could learn!!! Thanks.
In Europe you could learn how to put up with a max. motor power of 250W and a maximum pedal-assist speed of 15.5mph, unfortunately. How does that sound?
 
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