Ride1Up Portola Thread

Wow, and I thought Colorado Springs was a safe(r) city. Cable locks don't stand a chance against these high battery powered portable grinders.
I think it was probably a simple shear-type cable cutter:

Such a cheap tool to get an eBike. I wish bike shops would stop selling cable-type locks. Even the 80s. style chain locks with 4-digit combination and a transparent vinyl cover are better.
 
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The Colorado Springs police dept got back to me, requested the serial # (S/N), which I didn't have when I filed the report there.

I checked the manual for the field where I should've written it down. I remember looking for a S/N when I was adjusting the bike and couldn't find one. The one place I didn't check was inside the downtube, where the battery goes. I wonder if it is there or if these bikes don't have S/Ns.

I have to say that Lectric's designs are inherently more secure. Instead of a 4-digit PIN code to unlock the controller every time the bike is ridden, a key switch is needed for ignition AND to release the battery. (whereas Ride1Up only needs a physical key to release the battery) Too bad it's such a hassle to get the battery out of a Lectric. If someone had stolen the Lectric instead, they would not be able to ride it powered unless they knew how to hotwire it too! (which may not be doable without cutting into the frame...)

This is a good consideration for the "what eBike should I get" threads. For a buyer who lives in a big city or even any place with homelessness, Lectric should be preferred for this reason. (even if a proper lock is used)
 
Just checked the Ride1up web site. The Portola serial number is located near the frame latch, if anyone is looking for it.
Thanks, yes it's on the bottom under the frame latch. Ride1Up should allow you to register your bike on their website, but I do not see anywhere on it to do that.
 
I learned a couple things about thread locker over the years:
  • Factory-applied threadlocker is rarely done right. It seems to be put on the fasteners and allowed to dry in the open air. So it just clogs the threads a bit; doesn't really "glue" them like it's supposed to.
  • A lot of times, the fasteners have oil on them. Then, the thread locker is applied, but it won't stick properly, because the fastener was still oily. If you're going to use conventional thread locker (Permatex, LocTite, etc.) and you want it to work properly, you have to clean the fastener first with some solvent that will take the oil away. Then apply thread locker, then assemble & torque, then wait for it to set 24 hours before subjecting it to loads or shocks.
  • There is another thread locker called VibraTite that will work even with some oil. I'm buying that now instead of regular old thread locker for anything that will have impacts and vibrations. (eBikes, scooters)
Thanks for the info. I cleaned my stem bolt with a soft wire brush and then with ipa, applied the threadlocker, and immediately, as you posted, assembled and torqued it. I have not ridden it since last week, tooo hot here in TN.
 
Instead of a 4-digit PIN code to unlock the controller every time the bike is ridden.
I have to start reading the display manual, pages 15,16,17. Mine by default must be set to No password. I did not know you could change it. I will do that. Thanks for the tip.
 
Thanks, yes it's on the bottom under the frame latch. Ride1Up should allow you to register your bike on their website, but I do not see anywhere on it to do that.
Furthermore, I asked them if they tracked the S/N with the buyer; the answer was "no."
My bad for not doing my due diligence. Now, if the police DO recover it, they have no way of being sure it was mine or that it was even stolen. :-(
 
Furthermore, I asked them if they tracked the S/N with the buyer; the answer was "no."
My bad for not doing my due diligence. Now, if the police DO recover it, they have no way of being sure it was mine or that it was even stolen. :-(
you possibly had some sort of identifying mark anywhere on the ebike?

i could not imagine that happening and not being able to get it back. I surely hope they get it for you man.

check into that invisipaint stuff to mark things then shine the UV light on it? type of stuff, i may do that as well
 
you possibly had some sort of identifying mark anywhere on the ebike?

i could not imagine that happening and not being able to get it back. I surely hope they get it for you man.

check into that invisipaint stuff to mark things then shine the UV light on it? type of stuff, i may do that as well
I'm thinking more of hidden AirTag holders for my remaining eBikes.
 
I'm thinking more of hidden AirTag holders for my remaining eBikes.
i am going to order this and mark places line under the seat and diff places on the frame and wheels:

every little bit helps i believe.
 
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you possibly had some sort of identifying mark anywhere on the ebike?

i could not imagine that happening and not being able to get it back. I surely hope they get it for you man.

check into that invisipaint stuff to mark things then shine the UV light on it? type of stuff, i may do that as well
The best idea I have heard is to put a rolled up picture of yourself in the handlebars or seat tube.
 
The best idea I have heard is to put a rolled up picture of yourself in the handlebars or seat tube.
stuff it down there and no one will ever see it until it gets removed with a coat hanger as instructed to the police!!
Brilliant! :)
 
I'm thinking more of hidden AirTag holders for my remaining eBikes.
If you do that put two AirTags different places on the bike. The problem with AirTags is Apple rats you out telling the thief there is an AirTag following them around.
Maybe if you hide two they’ll find one and quit looking.
 
Now for some notes I made while assembling the bike. - means it's a drawback, + means it's good, and +/- means it could be consider either or maybe it's just in the middle:

- Like many other bikes, the key is needed only to remove the battery. There is no keyed power switch like Lectrics have. However, by default, the display is set up to require a 4-digit PIN code before it will energize the bike. I prefer the keyed power switch that Lectric uses.

- The included owner's manual (an older version of this one) doesn't include display programming instructions. It's mostly just a bunch of warnings. Additionally, the bike was programmed from the factory for Europe or Asia, limited to 25 kph. (15.5 mph) it took me as long to figure this out as it did to put the rest of the bike together. Poking around on their website, I found three instruction sheets. The first two are obsolete and conflict with each other. They are from some time prior to Oct. 2020. The third document linked on this page was written by a customer and is the only one worth looking at. {DIRECT LINK TO THE GOOD ONE}

- The tool kit has a full set of ball end metric hex keys: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10 mm; but no 8 mm wrench, which will be needed to remove the rear wheel in case of a flat. I think Ride1Up should throw in a nice 18 mm semi-box wrench, as most wrench sets home mechanics have don't include 18 mm. (or at least neither of mine did!)

- The pedals are plastic and (at least now) have high friction bearings. I'm going to swap these out with a nice set of quick-release pedals; something like these.

- Front brake drags out of the box due to the front wheel not running true between the pads. There's too much slop in the front axle arrangement. It is a bit of a loose fit in the dropouts.

- I bought the Touring Package, which includes a better seat, shock seatpost and mirror. I mostly was interested in the shock seatpost. When I went to install it, I noticed it is significantly shorter than the stock one, which is already marginal. This is going back to them.

+/- I don't really like the knobby tires. They make lots of noise and add rolling and air resistance. I may order a set of street tread ones when I get back from CO later this summer.

+ Very nice brakes, all-around

+ Very nice shifter/derailleur

+ Saddle is not bad

+ The handlebar controls are well thought-out. Near the right grip is a nifty little (but quiet) bell that just looks like a ring.

+ Nice design on the latches for the folding handlebar stem and frame hinge.

More coming as I notice things.
Hi, I just received my Portola. Can you tell me what the Lock/Unlock switch is that is located on the front wheel fork (atop the shock absorber)? I can't find any info on it. Thanks, Mike
 
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Remember that air tags announce themselves on the thief’s phone - required by law to do this
Hi, I just received my Portola. Can you tell me what the Lock/Unlock switch is that is located on the front wheel fork (atop the shock absorber)? I can't find any info on it. Thanks, Mike
That switch is just to lock or unlock your front fork suspension. I have a cargo bike with a long rack and I have found if I overload it, the front handling can become light and goofy with the front suspension set on soft, this stops when you lock it. I then remember how much I need it, when the bike is empty, I have forgotten that it's locked and I start plowing into New England pot holes.
 
That switch is just to lock or unlock your front fork suspension. I have a cargo bike with a long rack and I have found if I overload it, the front handling can become light and goofy with the front suspension set on soft, this stops when you lock it. I then remember how much I need it, when the bike is empty, I have forgotten that it's locked and I start plowing into New England pot holes.
Thanks for your answer!
 
Remember that air tags announce themselves on the thief’s phone - required by law to do this
Good point. I guess this could work either way then:
  1. Thief checks before stealing the bike if it is AirTagged. May decide to move on if it is, rather than try to find it.
  2. ...or he may take it to a "safe" location (i.e. not his house) and make it his mission to find it quickly and get rid of it. This seems risky for him, an angry owner could show up with the police or a gun or even just a camera and can of pepper spray.
Would it announce itself to an Android user, or only Apple users?
 
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