Replacement wheel and hub motor

[Dave Ride1Up]

Hello. I'm new to the e-bike world and need some help. My son gave me a Ride1Up e-bike the he got when he bought a abandoned storage locker. It is one of their early edition Roadster Ghost models. For some reason the axle and hub motor spun in the frame and twisted the wire loom. The motor no longer powers the bike. I have spoken with Ride1Up and they no longer have parts for this bike. I'm told I need a 48V, 500W motor mounted on a single speed sprocket 26 inch wheel with a 9 pin cable. I've been searching the internet but can't find anything matching those specs. Does anyone have a recommendation where I might look for this item?

 

[Kagehik]

I have a similar issue, and am still waiting a reply. Seems like they keep changing connectors on these things or something. Plenty of possible, fully assembled, rear, direct drive wheels, both for what you are looking for, and what I need, but getting the bloody "pins" to match.... Worse, almost all the ones you can get are "conversion kits", unless you know someone that can rebuild the entire wheel for you. But then... as long as the number of wires is the same, you could always use the kit's connector, and just redo the connection to the controller already on the bike.

This is the thing that bugs me the most - I think the "designs" of the motors are fairly standard, i.e., same number of wires, etc., but they change the connectors, which royally messes with your ability to fix anything.

I hope we both get useful replies in the next few days.

 

[Freddy1]

Search AliExpress. If you hit a brick wall and can't find a complete wheel, simply get one made up from the various parts. Source a motor (make sure it's OLD matches your frame width, rim, spokes and get someone to lace it up if you aren't game to tackle that one. Good youtube videos on how to do it.

 

[m@Robertson]

Buy nothing before assessing the frame. I may have some very bad news for you: If a hub motor spins out within the dropouts, that typically involves the motor spreading those dropouts. If that happens, the spread (or chewed-through if its alloy) dropouts cannot be repaired without some expert cutting and re-welding of new dropouts into the frame... which translates to a write-off as a low cost direct-to-consumer frame isn't worth that time/trouble.

Some frames use replaceable dropouts, but that is a high end feature of frames that typically cost more than an entire DTC ebike.

Low-cost hub motor installations often rely on a little washer with a nub on it to prevent this from happening. The nub goes into the gap in the dropout and acts as a sort of doorstop to keep the flat-sided axle from being able to spin. If someone removes the wheel and forgets to put this washer back properly, it takes away this protection. Very small mistake. Very big consequences.

How To Install Hub Motor Washers

www.ebikeschool.com

A proper solution - seldom found on cheap bikes - is to put a torque arm on (there are cheap, almost-useless versions of a torque arm, so using the right one is a smart move). But that makes the wheel more difficult to remove (which it should be given the potential consequences).

But the bottom line is if the motor has spun and spread the dropouts, that frame is finished. You can tell by looking at the dropouts. If their inner walls are no longer perfectly parallel, its done for.

 

[Kagehik]

I need mine as my main transportation for work, so... decided that it was just easier, if a tad more expensive, to buy a conversion kit - thus updating *everything* on it. I opted to go with a battery upgrade too, but as long as the "kit" was is one that uses the same voltage there is no reason a whole new kit can't connect to the old battery. Its also a bit cheaper without said battery added on. But, yeah, I did find a motor for mine on AliExpress, I just don't always trust things from them, and the shipping cost for something that size is almost 50% more than the cost of the item. The motor would have been $108, and I had no one who could have "built" it into a wheel (the local bike shop just laughed at the idea, basically), but the total cost would have been more like $300. Buying a fully built wheel would have been over $600, once shipping was applied. I got a conversion kit for like $760, and that included the upgrade to the battery.

Odds are.. if the wiring is old enough, you are looking at the same sort of situation - a usable replacement will end up, if ordered via AliExpress, almost as much as just ripping the existing electronics out, and replacing everything, including the entire wheel, with a kit.

 

[Freddy1]

Hello. I'm new to the e-bike world and need some help. My son gave me a Ride1Up e-bike the he got when he bought a abandoned storage locker. It is one of their early edition Roadster Ghost models. For some reason the axle and hub motor spun in the frame and twisted the wire loom. The motor no longer powers the bike. I have spoken with Ride1Up and they no longer have parts for this bike. I'm told I need a 48V, 500W motor mounted on a single speed sprocket 26 inch wheel with a 9 pin cable. I've been searching the internet but can't find anything matching those specs. Does anyone have a recommendation where I might look for this item?

With a bit of further though, my opinion is send the whole lot to landfill and look around for a good deal on a minimum spec 500W, 48v, 14?Ah battery bike. As has been pointed out the frame is likely shot, the battery sitting how long flat will be also, the motor is junk, probably got the cheapest controller and display (assuming they actually work) that money can buy. Don't waste your time on it is my opinion.

 

[Kagehik]

Yeah. May be a better bet Freddy1. Only caveat I would include is that, from what I can see, the "cheapest" model, at least locally, if I had decided to go that route, would have been a $1700 foldable - and it would almost certainly have still had the bog standard controller and LCD control panel. Still confused on if you can upgrade the panel, and get access to more features from the controller...

But, given the damage involved.. if it did mess up the frame, and not just the spokes (which I assume is what he meant by the wire loom), then it may be a total wash. And, a newer model at least won't run into the, "we don't have parts for that", problem when something fails down the line. Still.. in my case I got a good 3,600+ miles out of it because, as the jokers at the local bike shop put it, "It started falling apart." Makes me laugh, since I doubt a single customer they had has ridden any of the bikes they sell there anything close to that far yet. lol

 

[m@Robertson]

But, given the damage involved.. if it did mess up the frame, and not just the spokes (which I assume is what he meant by the wire loom)

I took that to mean the wire bundle coming out of the motor. Its encased to make it look like a single wire, but its a bundle of them. When a motor spins out, that cable tends to spool around the axle just like fishing line in a reel. Except its not meant to do that... so the cable connection is pulled apart and that pulling also pulls the kaka out of the wiring on the motor side, likely pulling wares out inside the motor, since that cable is typically secured by zip ties and such and isn't going to go quietly.

So, its a mess all around. I spun out a motor once and only once. I was lucky in that it was a brand new build and I was on my first test ride, so I hadn't secured any wiring. It was a front motor so all I did was totally destroy my fork (steel dropouts but they still spread)

 

[kmccune]

I found a Guy that makes a bulletproof steel torque arrestor for the front of any bike basically, used one and it will stand a lot more than the original stuff, now heres the rub I have lost the link, got it on EBAY and it did the job superlativley.

 

[m@Robertson]

I found a Guy that makes a bulletproof steel torque arrestor for the front of any bike basically, used one and it will stand a lot more than the original stuff, now heres the rub I have lost the link, got it on EBAY and it did the job superlativley.

I have gotten a couple on EBay myself and they worked great. I usually recommend Grin Technologies torque arms because I never know what you can find on Fleabay at any given moment. There is a company based in the UK that sells really good ones frequently there. Also I have bought some from a guy in Russia that were well made, but you know why that doesn't work any more.

Torque Arms - Grin Products - Product Info

For every force there is an equal and opposite force, and for every torque there is an equal and opposite torque. Sadly with import hub motors this opposing torque is often born entirely by bicycle dropouts that are not up to the task, allowing the motor axle to spin out. Grin has pioneered the...

ebikes.ca

and

Torque Arms - Ebike Parts - Shop

We now have a full range of 7 torque arm models in production that together fit almost all front/rear 12 and 14mm axle motors, along with special ones for regen braking use. We also offer motor-specific arms for the Grin All-Axle and GMAC motors.

ebikes.ca

this is the UK guy on EBay. You can see its very similar to the Grin v5 arm.

Adjustable Angle Torque Arm for e-bike 5mm Thick Stainless Steel 14x10mm | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Adjustable Angle Torque Arm for e-bike 5mm Thick Stainless Steel 14x10mm at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[kmccune]

Thanks and I think by looking at the Grin offerings they can cover every situation I could come up with and I like Justins respect for front drive and 36 volt systems-Kevin

 

[hsdrggr]

Just adding another option for torque arms. A guy in the Ukraine makes these CNC machined hardened stainless steel torque arms that attach using the existing rear eyelets that exist on many dropouts. I used them on my custom mid-drive e-bike and they work great.

 

[kmccune]

Logical, on my wish list.

 

[m@Robertson]

I love the idea of these torque arms, but they require a pair of M5 bolts spaced 22mm apart, and some number or other to reach up to. As far as I know thats not a standard. But if you can make it work, its a single piece of steel bolted flat against the frame which is going to be better than just about any 2-piece solution.

If nothing else, this points up why so many builders make their own. Not as pretty usually, but simpler is better when you can bolt the little sucker down like this.

 

[hsdrggr]

I love the idea of these torque arms, but they require a pair of M5 bolts spaced 22mm apart, and some number or other to reach up to. As far as I know thats not a standard. But if you can make it work, its a single piece of steel bolted flat against the frame which is going to be better than just about any 2-piece solution.

If nothing else, this points up why so many builders make their own. Not as pretty usually, but simpler is better when you can bolt the little sucker down like this.

Yeah, 22mm spacing. I guess I got lucky because they fit that Wallke frame perfectly for the custom build I posted. One day I’ll get a Langmuir CNC and make my own and offer custom made ones for others.

 

[KB's_ebikes]

Just adding another option for torque arms. A guy in the Ukraine makes these CNC machined hardened stainless steel torque arms that attach using the existing rear eyelets that exist on many dropouts. I used them on my custom mid-drive e-bike and they work great.

Awesome.. I was just looking for torque arms for the Wallke F1 and found one of your posts...again. Do you happen to still have the seller's ebay name/shop name since the link doesn't work anymore?

I guess alternatively I'd settle for a Grin V2 Front Torque Arm which might work as well but in a more generic way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOUOPY4

 

[KB's_ebikes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165950727373?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Tg8e_OU0SzS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=e1aKsi4BRFO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks, but the link doesn't work.

BUT I just did a google image search and found the seller. Awesome..gonna order one right away. You have the best suggestions for my F1

Torque Arm double Kit axle 10x12mm heavy duty Dropout Amplifier E-bike Hub Motor | eBay

Need use with powerful motor wheel, gear hub from 500 w and more., in set 2 universal arms, 4 screw bolts. Asia, China, Japan, South Korea 5%. 50% 30% 4%.

www.ebay.com

 

[hsdrggr]

Torque Arm double Kit axle 10x12mm heavy duty Dropout Amplifier E-bike Hub Motor | eBay

Need use with powerful motor wheel, gear hub from 500 w and more., in set 2 universal arms, 4 screw bolts. Asia, China, Japan, South Korea 5%. 50% 30% 4%.

www.ebay.com

 

[hsdrggr]

Yep, that’s the ones.

 

[KB's_ebikes]

Torque Arm double Kit axle 10x12mm heavy duty Dropout Amplifier E-bike Hub Motor | eBay

Need use with powerful motor wheel, gear hub from 500 w and more., in set 2 universal arms, 4 screw bolts. Asia, China, Japan, South Korea 5%. 50% 30% 4%.

www.ebay.com

ordered! Thanks again.