PAS level changes

LennyG

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I just converted my TREK 1100 into an E-Bike. It's working great, with one problem. I have just confirmed it with the bike on a stand. C1 is set to 5, and C14 is set to 3. During yesterdays ride, a hill climb at level 3 drew 150W at first. Then, at the next hill, I had to go up to level 5 to get ANY assist at all? Turning off the controller, and back on restored the normal level 3 assist. On the stand today, I confirmed what is happening. I start at level 1, and move the pedals, and the motor runs. Increasing the level makes the motor run at a faster speed. Then, if I go back down to level 1, and move the pedals, the motor is now turning at a MUCH lower speed. It does not speed up at all until level 4 or 5. If I turn off the controller, and turn it back on, all the assist speeds are back. Any thoughts?
 

LennyG

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The TREK 1100 conversion. Custom fabricated rear deck battery/controller holder.
 

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Hoggdoc

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The TREK 1100 conversion. Custom fabricated rear deck battery/controller holder.
Question for you, why did you decide to go to the trouble of fabricating a rear rack battery holder. It looks like you have adequate space in your frame "V" for a traditional battery pack. Not only would it be less work for you but it would make your bike better balanced I would think.

Just curious!
 

LennyG

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Question for you, why did you decide to go to the trouble of fabricating a rear rack battery holder. It looks like you have adequate space in your frame "V" for a traditional battery pack. Not only would it be less work for you but it would make your bike better balanced I would think.

Just curious!
I always ride with 2 water bottles, and there was no room for a frame battery.
 

Hoggdoc

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I just converted my TREK 1100 into an E-Bike. It's working great, with one problem. I have just confirmed it with the bike on a stand. C1 is set to 5, and C14 is set to 3. During yesterdays ride, a hill climb at level 3 drew 150W at first. Then, at the next hill, I had to go up to level 5 to get ANY assist at all? Turning off the controller, and back on restored the normal level 3 assist. On the stand today, I confirmed what is happening. I start at level 1, and move the pedals, and the motor runs. Increasing the level makes the motor run at a faster speed. Then, if I go back down to level 1, and move the pedals, the motor is now turning at a MUCH lower speed. It does not speed up at all until level 4 or 5. If I turn off the controller, and turn it back on, all the assist speeds are back. Any thoughts?
Lenny I would say the controller has problem. Contact the controller mfg or seller pick their brains .
 

bugsplatterbeast

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Have you checked the display settings are correct, it should explain somewhere in the paperwork or more likely online. I've got a PAS & a throttle so have you fixed the PAS correctly, if so check all the connecting plugs for bent pins (I've see people do it). Check the battery/controller connections & if that doesn't sort it out, then suspect the controller. I bought a Cyclotricity steal 250/1000w & the battery & controller was duff, they replaced them & next to go was the display (replaced). Five years on & the bike is still going strong, thou the battery is now showing it's age. PS you can buy water bottle mounts for handlebars, saddle stem, front tube & top tubes held on with cable ties, rubber straps & if your good with a drill you can install rivnuts https://bikepacking.com/gear/rivnut-bottle-cage-mounts/
 

DJKnut

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Lenny... Don't forget... on the stand, there will be virtually no LOAD on the drive system, and the controller is programed to balance speed and load (motor current) to move your bike... I found that I could make changes on my Bafang BBS02B Trike conversion controls, that looked exactly like what I wanted (on the stand) but then when I took it out for a ride, the dynamic was very different... Be patient, make good observations on conditions (flat..hill..etc) and responses... speed, acceleration, current... and the illusive "feel".... but, most important, have FUN !! Cheers -D
 

LennyG

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I resolved the problem! For safety, I had wanted the throttle to be OFF unless I had some PAS enabled. I also wanted the PAS level to be ZERO when I turned the display on, and the throttle level to be consistant with PAS level. Well, these settings do NOT seem to do EXACTLY what they say. After a discussion with the manufacturer, I basically returned the settings back to default levels. After that, the PAS no longer dropped out. THEN, I discovered 1 more thing. Under ' user settings ', the maximum speed allowed is ALWAYS set at Km/Hr, even though in the next step you change to MPH. So I had set MAX SPEED to 20 ( KH), which was actually 11MPH! Once I reset max to 33 ( KPH ), which IS 20MPH, everything worked much better!
 

Hoggdoc

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I resolved the problem! For safety, I had wanted the throttle to be OFF unless I had some PAS enabled. I also wanted the PAS level to be ZERO when I turned the display on, and the throttle level to be consistant with PAS level. Well, these settings do NOT seem to do EXACTLY what they say. After a discussion with the manufacturer, I basically returned the settings back to default levels. After that, the PAS no longer dropped out. THEN, I discovered 1 more thing. Under ' user settings ', the maximum speed allowed is ALWAYS set at Km/Hr, even though in the next step you change to MPH. So I had set MAX SPEED to 20 ( KH), which was actually 11MPH! Once I reset max to 33 ( KPH ), which IS 20MPH, everything worked much better!
Lenny, glad you finally figured it out. I have limited experience with e-bike ownership but have found the documentation really lacking in full explanation of what the various setting do and how the effect the ride of the bikes.

This issue is not limited to just e-bikes as I have often found the same thing in documentation for computer hardware. I think because most of this stems from the fact that most of these products come from non english speaking countries and are written by people that don't have the skills to write technical manuals in the first place.
 
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