Need advice diagnosing brand new ebike kit

Cudaman426

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Jul 9, 2022
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Hello. I have a new 1500w 48v kit from csc. I have installed it on my bike, and it's never quite worked properly. The motor will jump as If the battery is dead, and I'll get error 6 and 10 on the sw900 display. The error codes will show when attempting to accelerate, or even just by pulling a brake while sitting still! I triple checked my work, no issues. Contacted csc, they had me bypass the display using the provided jumper. I did so. For a second, the bike had plenty of power. Until the controller popped, belched smoke out, and burnt the wiring! Could this simply just be a bad controller? Anybody heard of this happening on a csc kit? Thanks in advance.
 
Motors do not "jump" when the battery is dead, they just stop motoring forward. No idea what you mean here.

Have you looked up errors 6 and 10 for your display, did tech support give you this information, did you ask, do you expect us to research them for you?

Can you describe what "never quite worked properly" means, with specific details?

No clue who or what "csc" is, they did not make your motor, or controller, both will have brand names on them, THAT would be useful diagnostic information, the name of the vendor is totally useless.

How exactly did you determine, IN ONE SECOND, that the motor had "plenty of power"? Where EXACTLY did the wires burn. Close to the controller, or the motor? Where these the wires that run to the motor, or to the battery, or to the display, or to the throttle, or to the ebrakes, or the horn, or alarm, or lights??? LOTS and LOTS of wires run to the controller, knowing WHICH ONES burnt would be useful diagnostic information.
 
Motors do not "jump" when the battery is dead, they just stop motoring forward. No idea what you mean here.

Have you looked up errors 6 and 10 for your display, did tech support give you this information, did you ask, do you expect us to research them for you?

Can you describe what "never quite worked properly" means, with specific details?

No clue who or what "csc" is, they did not make your motor, or controller, both will have brand names on them, THAT would be useful diagnostic information, the name of the vendor is totally useless.

How exactly did you determine, IN ONE SECOND, that the motor had "plenty of power"? Where EXACTLY did the wires burn. Close to the controller, or the motor? Where these the wires that run to the motor, or to the battery, or to the display, or to the throttle, or to the ebrakes, or the horn, or alarm, or lights??? LOTS and LOTS of wires run to the controller, knowing WHICH ONES burnt would be useful diagnostic information.
I should rephrase my first question from "need help" to "have you heard of this happening before." I am in contact with the vendor, they are being helpful. Waiting on their response about what happened.
"Jumping" is my way of describing the characteristics of the bike kit when attempting to accelerate. It was acting like there was a poor connection on a high voltage circuit. I determined there was not one.
I have indeed researched errors 6 and 10, I do not expect anybody to do anything they do not wish. Error 6 is low system voltage. 10 is communication rx failure. Please note the battery is fully charged. Also, these errors would show even sitting still and squeezing the brake handles (with the position switch inside going to the controller)
"Never quite worked properly" only seldomly would it move and give the rated wattage output. I am referring to the issue I described as "jumping" where it would start to move, and then stop. Acting like it is losing connection on a high voltage circuit.
I was able to determine (for 1 second) the motor had plenty of power. Upon bypassing the display, applying the throttle, the bike took off like never before. Immediately, more grunt than ever before, no jumping or anything. When the controller blew up, it seems the wires burnt in a catastrophic manner. I say this because circuits such as the brake switch Input also burnt. This may be due to internal controller circuit shorting. All burnt wiring is next to the controller.
Do displays have built in circuit protections? Could it have been detecting the issue in the controller all along?
 
NOTE THIS PARAGRAPH - "Jumping" is my way of describing the characteristics of the bike kit when attempting to accelerate. It was acting like there was a poor connection on a high voltage circuit. I determined there was not one."

First, DO NOT TELL ME WHAT YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DESCRIBE, Instead, DESCRIBE WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED.

THIS - "it would start to move, and then stop." THAT is what useful information looks like.

Also, what you are describing would be more like "It never worked AT ALL", as opposed to "It never quite worked properly". How did you determine that it "moved and gave the rated wattage output"???

Now, there is THIS - "I determined there was not one." The HELL you did. This is a CERTAINTY because there WAS ONE. What you did, was LOOKED AT the wires, saw no glaringly obvious problem, and incorrectly ASSumed there was no other connection error.

If you ALREADY HAD the details on the error 6, and error 10, FOR WHAT POSSIBLE REASON did you leave that useful information out of the very first post?

I asked if the burnt wires burnt CLOSE TO the motor, CLOSE TO the battery, or CLOSE TO the controller. I asked this for a reason, proximity can often determine the source of the problem. Instead, I get LOTS of wires burnt, and they burnt REALLY BAD. Wonderful.

Well, you have a bad controller NOW. Hopefully you got specific written instructions on the display bypass, took pictures, and also got written approval that doing so would not violate your warranty. Request a replacement controller, display, brake levers, complete wiring harness, preferrably a replacement battery or compensation for having a skilled tech examine the battery and BMS for damage.

They are likely to tell you that you did the display bypass wrong and are SOL. Good Luck.
 
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