NOTE THIS PARAGRAPH - "Jumping" is my way of describing the characteristics of the bike kit when attempting to accelerate. It was acting like there was a poor connection on a high voltage circuit. I determined there was not one."
First, DO NOT TELL ME WHAT YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DESCRIBE, Instead, DESCRIBE WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED.
THIS - "it would start to move, and then stop." THAT is what useful information looks like.
Also, what you are describing would be more like "It never worked AT ALL", as opposed to "It never quite worked properly". How did you determine that it "moved and gave the rated wattage output"???
Now, there is THIS - "I determined there was not one." The HELL you did. This is a CERTAINTY because there WAS ONE. What you did, was LOOKED AT the wires, saw no glaringly obvious problem, and incorrectly ASSumed there was no other connection error.
If you ALREADY HAD the details on the error 6, and error 10, FOR WHAT POSSIBLE REASON did you leave that useful information out of the very first post?
I asked if the burnt wires burnt CLOSE TO the motor, CLOSE TO the battery, or CLOSE TO the controller. I asked this for a reason, proximity can often determine the source of the problem. Instead, I get LOTS of wires burnt, and they burnt REALLY BAD. Wonderful.
Well, you have a bad controller NOW. Hopefully you got specific written instructions on the display bypass, took pictures, and also got written approval that doing so would not violate your warranty. Request a replacement controller, display, brake levers, complete wiring harness, preferrably a replacement battery or compensation for having a skilled tech examine the battery and BMS for damage.
They are likely to tell you that you did the display bypass wrong and are SOL. Good Luck.