silverback
Member
Mostly only kit bikes apply but there are always exceptions. It was more of a question of when the threads would strip not if. The two threaded protrusions in the frame aren't ideal for supporting a full size battery like mine. Even when the screws were cinched down firmly the battery had some wobble in it. The worst part was when it loosened off causing the battery poles to disengage and cut all power. Every time it would happen (about once a week) I'd think to myself I'm going to fix that d*m thing tonight for sure. Obviously I didn't and the screw threads finally blew out. I'm only surprised it didn't happen sooner, it was like that for daily riding.
You can see how I mounted the battery. And how I mounted it better. As soon as they upload.
Its a inexpensive fix and some personal peace of mind. All you need is two long carriage bolts. I always use stainless steel because there's nothing worse then rusty screws.
Long enough to pass through the frame bar, the battery mount, rubber and metal washers , and a polymer retaining nut. Polymer coated thread it won't back off at all. Pretty sure that's how they got the name "poly'locs". Or you can use a drop of red lock tite. I prefer to use polymer nuts every time I use bolts when they suit the mechanics. And there tensile strength is adequate.
I wouldn't use them inside of an engine of course, but almost everywhere else. I trust them unless there frequently turned manually. The plastic does eventually wear out to a point you can easily turn them with just your fingers. It takes turning them dozens and dozens of times but it eventually does happen. For a battery mount there's no reason to doubt them at all.
You can see how I mounted the battery. And how I mounted it better. As soon as they upload.
Its a inexpensive fix and some personal peace of mind. All you need is two long carriage bolts. I always use stainless steel because there's nothing worse then rusty screws.
Long enough to pass through the frame bar, the battery mount, rubber and metal washers , and a polymer retaining nut. Polymer coated thread it won't back off at all. Pretty sure that's how they got the name "poly'locs". Or you can use a drop of red lock tite. I prefer to use polymer nuts every time I use bolts when they suit the mechanics. And there tensile strength is adequate.
I wouldn't use them inside of an engine of course, but almost everywhere else. I trust them unless there frequently turned manually. The plastic does eventually wear out to a point you can easily turn them with just your fingers. It takes turning them dozens and dozens of times but it eventually does happen. For a battery mount there's no reason to doubt them at all.
