My daily commuter finally stolen, so here i am

[I_AM_VENNLIG]

Glad to be able to help!

BTW (and don't go buying one cuz this is still an experiment) I purchased Bafang's follow-on to the SW102: The DM03. A display so new I know of no one who has actually used one. Supposedly this revision supports 3, 5 and 9 PAS levels, although I would not be at all surprised if it actually gives me 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 (i.e. 5 selectable). I'm also unsure of how aggressive it is about enforcing a 48v system voltage limit. If past displays are an indicator, if there is a problem it will happen north of 57.8v (or 58.3v), which I may be fine with on a 2wd bike where my HD is only one dog on a team.

At US$40 it was a lot cheaper than trying an EggRider. I have a second complication with that display in that since I would have two of them, and they are different types (BAC 800 vs. Bafang) I will have activation issues based on what I have seen on the ER support group.

View attachment 8767

I hope the DM03 gives you what you are looking for. I now have 20 miles under my belt with an EggRider V2, and I like the size, but the screen sure is small. I think 4.5 years of looking at a DPC18 has me used to a large colorful display. I still have the DPC18 and will keep it, but I think I will get used to the EggRider. And I will make a separate post, but I just got home from picking up the bike for a 2nd time. It now rides so well.

 

[I_AM_VENNLIG]

I picked up my bike this evening and took a long 22 mile ride home. It was awesome. It seems like it is finally dialed in, and the few punchlist items have been taken care of. And the Lekkie onenut and Lekkie chainring have been installed, the motor seems super tight, and the bike rides like a dream. I couldn't be happier. Also, the builder was able to keep the stock brakes that came on the Marin, and he just replaced the stock levers with the ebay levers, so that is really nice. So now, I still have the decent brakes that came with the bike, but I also have the brake cut off switch nicely built into the levers for a super clean look. I dig the brake now a real lot.

And I am glad I went with the EggRider V2, but for myself, I feel there is something to be said for the simplicity and size of a DPC18. The DPC18 is without any quirks, and sure is easy to see. Still, I dig the EggRider and am glad I have it. My only issue at this point, is that I still can't figure out the throttle programming/settings. On my 1st ebike, the settings were perfect from the second I picked it up. I had throttle on any setting, and from 0-5 Pedal assist, I had full throttle. On this bike though, the stock throttle settings suck. I have no throttle on PAS 0, and no matter what settings I try, I can't get them so that I have throttle no matter my pedal assist level (0 through 9). I have researched it and tried the settings I have found, but so far, nothing has worked. If you have any suggestions or good directions, please let me know.

m@Robertson: as you know, I am grateful for your input here. From the suggestion of the Marin Pine Mountain 1, to your continued sharing of knowledge throughout this build. I will make sure to spread lots of good karma for all you shared with me here. And as you know, if you come to Philly, cheesesteaks on me.

 

[m@Robertson]

That's great to hear! One of your pics makes it look like MAYBE the Lekkie ring is close enough to your chainstay to rub a touch. You'll see marks and if so, you will want to just toss on a Lekkie 2mm spacer. I think we discussed that earlier here. A spacer would just move the ring out a hair to keep from rubbing. But if you see it happen you will want to get to it quick because an alloy chainring rubbing the frame is going to wear down the ring teeth quick. IF it is happening it would happen when the bike flexes when hitting bumps so it wouldn't be something that you can sit and watch.

But it may just be the angle of the photo (pxl_20230510_030529365-jpg). The other one looks fine.

I've installed the DM03 and it works great. 9-level PAS works fine. Testing voltage limit now.
EDIT: Voltage is fine for 52v. Display in bright sunlight sucks but a teeny display like this prioritizes size not viewability.

You mentioned issues with your settings. Have you looked at this?

BBSHD Programming For The Pedaling Cyclist

(But Not For The Throttler) There is a follow-on to this article that tinkers with these settings a bit further. In August 2023 I published another update that passed along what I’m doing dif…

talesontwowheels.com

The throttle on PAS0 issue should be resolved by setting the PAS 0 limits to 1 and 1. Thats why I do it at least.

 

[I_AM_VENNLIG]

One of your pics makes it look like MAYBE the Lekkie ring is close enough to your chainstay to rub a touch. You'll see marks and if so, you will want to just toss on a Lekkie 2mm spacer. I think we discussed that earlier here.

Hey. I appreciate you looking out here. I think it was the angle of that particular photo, but when you have a minute, please look at these new photos and let me know if you think things are too close. I can say that there is no rubbing at all, and the motor has been SO tight that I do not think there is any chance of the chain ring rubbing the frame.

Any my throttle settings are now dialed in, so all set there too. I have had the bike for almost a week now, and it rides so smoothly.

As far as the battery and the EggRider V2 battery read out, how low is the lowest you would recommend going on the battery before you stopped using it? 30% 20% 50%?? I have heard people saying that it is not good to drain the battery too much, but I do not know what percentage that actually means.

 

[m@Robertson]

It was just the angle. Those pics you posted show you have loads of room so don't worry about it.

Your EggRider is probably limiting you to about 41v before it cuts you off. But you should never go that low.

In terms of how low should you draw down? Lets put it a different way: The higher the better. This is not the kind of battery chemistry where there is a memory effect. Also it is not the sort of chemistry that likes to be fully drawn down before recharging. Li-NMC - which is what your cells use - is not like older chemistries that did like that sort of thing.

Your battery is happiest in its top half is another way to look at it. Store it for extended periods in the 60% range. Try and only charge it to 80% daily, with monthly 100% balance charges. Avoid going lower than 40% if you can. Never ever let it sit for any length of time at 100%. Feel free to charge it up that high but then go ride it straightaway. The real damage going up to 100% is letting it sit like that.

BU-808: How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries

BU meta description needed...

batteryuniversity.com

Depth of Discharge is every bit as bad for a battery's cycle count as charging it to 100% is. The thing is, its hard enough to get people to stick to 80%... people who carry this torch know if they also threw in the DoD argument the unwashed masses would barf. So you don't hear a lot of talk about it. Look at the graph in the article above on DoD.

And above all, if you want to whip the battery like a rented mule in order to enjoy or properly use your bike, don't let anal-retentive battery management desires stop you from enjoying your bike. Just be conservative with the battery to preserve your investment when you can.

This is by far the #1 most visited page on my site. Google likes it as thats where all the traffic comes from. Use the 52v chart.

Li-Ion Ebike Battery Charge Charts

Whats an 80% charge on a 48v battery? These charts give answers to questions like this on common ebike battery voltages: 36v, 48v, 52v, 60v and 72v.

talesontwowheels.com

All of this 80%/40% stuff points to why you want to overbuy on your battery pack size. Its partly why my latest Bullitt has a 35ah pack. I can charge to 80%, ride all over the place and when I get home pack voltage is still no lower than 50v. I try to never go below 46v on general principles.

 

[I_AM_VENNLIG]

m@Robertson
Hey. I hope all is well. My bike continues to be just awesome. It rides so smoothly it's like a dream. Anyway, for the life of me, I can't get the motor to take me to 18mph and faster. It always cuts out at about 17.7mph. With my first ebike that had the same hardware, my throttle with take me to 27mph, but not this one. I checked and the settings in the controller and set the speed limit to 30, but it still cuts off at 17.7. Any thoughts on what the issue is? I really would love to be able to take full advantage of the power of the motor.

 

[m@Robertson]

Any thoughts on what the issue is? I really would love to be able to take full advantage of the power of the motor.

I bet your display has the limitation and not the controller. 17.7 mph is 25 km/h which is a common default cutoff number for non-USA ebikes.

This is what your throttle screen should look like. Do all this stuff and then get into your display's Advanced settings and change the speed limit. What display do you have? There is likely a 4-digit code needed to get into the Advanced section.

 

[I_AM_VENNLIG]

I bet your display has the limitation and not the controller. 17.7 mph is 25 km/h which is a common default cutoff number for non-USA ebikes.

This is what your throttle screen should look like. Do all this stuff and then get into your display's Advanced settings and change the speed limit. What display do you have? There is likely a 4-digit code needed to get into the Advanced section.

View attachment 9433

Thanks. I have the EggRider2 display. I changed the speed limit to 60kph just now, but the home still cuts out at like 17.7MPH.

 

[m@Robertson]

Thanks. I have the EggRider2 display. I changed the speed limit to 60kph just now, but the home still cuts out at like 17.7MPH.

You've got a bad setting in there somewhere limiting you to 25 km/h. Look on all the screens. Check out the ones I have here for comparison. Or show us your screens here. Thats probably a better idea.

this article is about what is used for a cargo bike, but it doesn't matter... everything still applies to your bike. The only relevant difference from lo power to hi power is noted in the article.

Larry vs Harry Bullitt Hill Hauler, Back-to-Front Part 2

This continues the walk-through of my hill-climber Bullitt, starting with the mid drive motor installation and taking a close look at its BBSHD configuration.

talesontwowheels.com