motor controller and parts

Ed The Bike Guy

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I was hoping that someone could shine some light on sorceing some parts. I am looking for a new display unit, pas sensor, throttle, 5 to one cable & motor control box for a 350w motor - my existing 350w motor has the round Bafang style connector
 
I buy everything from AliExpress. As long as you're in no great hurry (delivery isn't the fastest, at least not to Australia) you'll find everything you need. Bought heaps of stuff, and never had a problem.

Recommend paying a little extra for a genuine KT controller and KT display and then you have certainty there will be no compatibility issues.
 
I buy everything from AliExpress. As long as you're in no great hurry (delivery isn't the fastest, at least not to Australia) you'll find everything you need. Bought heaps of stuff, and never had a problem.

Recommend paying a little extra for a genuine KT controller and KT display and then you have certainty there will be no compatibility issues.
will the PAS sensor be configured correctly that i currently have? it has the julet connector.
 
will the PAS sensor be configured correctly that i currently have? it has the julet connector.

While there seems to be no wiring standard for ebike kit, KT displays and controllers are one of the biggest sellers and if there is an 'unofficial' standard they seem to be it. So I'll stick my neck out and say, yes I expect it your PAS should just plug correctly. At the end of the day a new PAS sensor isn't expensive so there is little downside risk.
Probably obvious, but KT controllers come in both all julet connections or a mix with SM connections. Just be sure to get the right one for your current setup. Go sine wave rather then square, seem to be the same price these days.

P.S. As far as existing connections, its the 9 pin julet motor connection that potentially could be the biggest pain in the arse to sort if the motor and old controller were wired differently. But again, I would expect them to likely be correct.
 
While there seems to be no wiring standard for ebike kit, KT displays and controllers are one of the biggest sellers and if there is an 'unofficial' standard they seem to be it. So I'll stick my neck out and say, yes I expect it your PAS should just plug correctly. At the end of the day a new PAS sensor isn't expensive so there is little downside risk.
Probably obvious, but KT controllers come in both all julet connections or a mix with SM connections. Just be sure to get the right one for your current setup. Go sine wave rather then square, seem to be the same price these days.

P.S. As far as existing connections, its the 9 pin julet motor connection that potentially could be the biggest pain in the arse to sort if the motor and old controller were wired differently. But again, I would expect them to likely be correct.
are the PAS sensors Squarewave/Sine specific?
 
are the PAS sensors Squarewave/Sine specific?
No. But you could easily end up with a PAS sensor with the wrong plug end, which @Freddy1 noted above. This is an easy fix as you just buy one on Amazon that matches what you have.

Everything he said about KT controllers is spot on. They are worth it for the 'simulated torque sensing' pedal assist alone.

The controller goes with a display, and the display will have a slew of settings that are specific to the controller, so a KT controller and display should be regarded as a matched pair. My recommendation is to go with the KT-LCD8H. The big square color one. Not so much for the color but because all of the settings are on a single settings screen which is much easier to work with than the old-school method of cycling thru the settings one at a time, one per screen.

As an FYI there is a 'C' setting that lets you choose a configuration for your pedal-assist sensor that not only makes allowances for differing magnet counts on the PAS ring, but also has reverse-direction settings so you can put the sensor ring on the non drive side if you need to.

You should also be prepared to buy another throttle. What you have may or may not be compatible with the controller's plug and here again the part is cheap to buy.
 
No. But you could easily end up with a PAS sensor with the wrong plug end, which @Freddy1 noted above. This is an easy fix as you just buy one on Amazon that matches what you have.

Everything he said about KT controllers is spot on. They are worth it for the 'simulated torque sensing' pedal assist alone.

The controller goes with a display, and the display will have a slew of settings that are specific to the controller, so a KT controller and display should be regarded as a matched pair. My recommendation is to go with the KT-LCD8H. The big square color one. Not so much for the color but because all of the settings are on a single settings screen which is much easier to work with than the old-school method of cycling thru the settings one at a time, one per screen.

As an FYI there is a 'C' setting that lets you choose a configuration for your pedal-assist sensor that not only makes allowances for differing magnet counts on the PAS ring, but also has reverse-direction settings so y
No. But you could easily end up with a PAS sensor with the wrong plug end, which @Freddy1 noted above. This is an easy fix as you just buy one on Amazon that matches what you have.

Everything he said about KT controllers is spot on. They are worth it for the 'simulated torque sensing' pedal assist alone.

The controller goes with a display, and the display will have a slew of settings that are specific to the controller, so a KT controller and display should be regarded as a matched pair. My recommendation is to go with the KT-LCD8H. The big square color one. Not so much for the color but because all of the settings are on a single settings screen which is much easier to work with than the old-school method of cycling thru the settings one at a time, one per screen.

As an FYI there is a 'C' setting that lets you choose a configuration for your pedal-assist sensor that not only makes allowances for differing magnet counts on the PAS ring, but also has reverse-direction settings so you can put the sensor ring on the non drive side if you need to.

You should also be prepared to buy another throttle. What you have may or may not be compatible with the controller's plug and here again the part is cheap to buy.
ou can put the sensor ring on the non drive side if you need to.

You should also be prepared to buy another throttle. What you have may or may not be compatible with the controller's plug and here again the part is cheap to buy.
is the motor specific to wave/sine? i was looking at the display that you mentione and was leaning that way. what are the advantages/disadvantages with wave vs. sine?
 
is the motor specific to wave/sine? i was looking at the display that you mentione and was leaning that way. what are the advantages/disadvantages with wave vs. sine?

Is the motor specific to sine/square wave? If it is a typical Bafang (or clone) geared hub, no. I swapped from a square wave that originally come on my bike to a larger sine wave controlled and it all worked perfectly.

The advantage is the smoothness of how the power comes on. Think of the shape of a square wave (pure on/off shape), and a the shape of a sine wave (smooth rolling like ocean waves). Sine gives a better controlled riding experience, square apparently may be better if its just straight out top speed is the goal.
 
Is the motor specific to sine/square wave? If it is a typical Bafang (or clone) geared hub, no. I swapped from a square wave that originally come on my bike to a larger sine wave controlled and it all worked perfectly.

The advantage is the smoothness of how the power comes on. Think of the shape of a square wave (pure on/off shape), and a the shape of a sine wave (smooth rolling like ocean waves). Sine gives a better controlled riding experience, square apparently may be better if its just straight out top speed is the goal.
thank you for the explanation & info
 
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