Mid-drives want a straight chain line, any gear cluster is going to have substantial wear. Look at any drive that uses a single gear at the wheel.I'm curious if anyone has installed a Mid-Drive motor on a LandRider Auto-Shift bike?
Yeah... built and designed to be sold more than to be ridden.Interesting. Most of the Mid-Drive bikes I've seen on the market have a multi-gear cluster.
Not really sure what your talking about. I have thousands of mile on my Bafang Ultra Max with a Scram EX-1 11 to 48 8 speed that was custom designed for e-bikes. It can sift under full power and has a solid roller chain and what about all those EMTB. Do you ride a Hub?Yeah... built and designed to be sold more than to be ridden.
I was talking about 90% of the ebikes on the market now... all specifically designed to be inexpensive rather than to be a good ebike. Bits and pieces cobbled together and sold by low-end vendors for $1000 to $1500. Or the mid-range production ebikes with puny little 250W to 500W mid-drives with open gears. I haven't seen a production ebike yet that I would own regardless of cost. Just like I wouldn't use an Ultra and be tied down to what I consider to be an inferior frame. I use a BBSHD on a semi-standard bike frame and not really interested in any ebike that can't ride Class-1 infrastructure legally.Not really sure what your talking about. I have thousands of mile on my Bafang Ultra Max with a Scram EX-1 11 to 48 8 speed that was custom designed for e-bikes. It can sift under full power and has a solid roller chain and what about all those EMTB. Do you ride a Hub?
You clearly do not know what your talking about. A Frey AM 1000 would blow your mind. My frame is built around the Ultra Max. When you ride a real ebike you will know what I am talking about. Until then. You should not be spreading crap that you clearly do not know what you are talking about.Who said anything about a $1000 to $1500 ebike. They are just crap. Who said that? Please tell me...I was talking about 90% of the ebikes on the market now... all specifically designed to be inexpensive rather than to be a good ebike. Bits and pieces cobbled together and sold by low-end vendors for $1000 to $1500. Or the mid-range production ebikes with puny little 250W to 500W mid-drives with open gears. I haven't seen a production ebike yet that I would own regardless of cost. Just like I wouldn't use an Ultra and be tied down to what I consider to be an inferior frame. I use a BBSHD on a semi-standard bike frame and not really interested in any ebike that can't ride Class-1 infrastructure legally.
I know exactly what I'm talking about and why would I want a one-trick pony like the Frey Am1000? If I wanted one I'd buy one I prefer to own a bike that does more. Every Ultra frame I've seen has s**t frame geometry good for one thing only carrying an Ultra motor... that's absolutely meaningless to me. I'll stick with an abike that can double the mileage of any Ultra ladened ebike today and still ride anywhere in America that bikes are allowed. When I was 15 I was riding a Bultaco 500 trust me when I say the performance of a 1.35 h.p. motor doesn't impress me when it comes to speed or acceleration. But I'm sure it's fine for you.You clearly do not know what your talking about. A Frey AM 1000 would blow your mind.,,,
I put a mid-drive bafang 750w into my Carrera subway & that has 2 x 9 gearing. I had to remove the front derailleur & crank, so that's left me with a nine speed cassette. I've not experienced any major problems, bar a tiny bit more wear on the chain which I clean religiously after ever ride along with the cassetteI'm curious if anyone has installed a Mid-Drive motor on a LandRider Auto-Shift bike?
I have owned all kinds of motorcycles. That has nothing to do with ebikes. The Ultra Max blows any other ebike motor away. But we are really talking about the EX-1 cassette and how you are full of it saying cassettes are no good. One thing for sure, I am not talking about a BBSHD. That has nothing to do with the Ultra Max. I would not want any ebike motor that did not have a torque sensor. It is more about someone like you spreading bad info to others to feed your ego.c
I know exactly what I'm talking about and why would I want a one-trick pony like the Frey Am1000? If I wanted one I'd buy one I prefer to own a bike that does more. Every Ultra frame I've seen has s**t frame geometry good for one thing only carrying an Ultra motor... that's absolutely meaningless to me. I'll stick with an abike that can double the mileage of any Ultra ladened ebike today and still ride anywhere in America that bikes are allowed. When I was 15 I was riding a Bultaco 500 trust me when I say the performance of a 1.35 h.p. motor doesn't impress me when it comes to speed or acceleration. But I'm sure it's fine for you.
With the right components, you don't need a torque sensor. Maybe it's time for you to upgrade to useful frame.I would not want any ebike motor that did not have a torque sensor.
Hey, all you have to do is put it in the garage, never ride it and you won't get any wear at all... but that kinda defeats the purpose.I put a mid-drive bafang 750w into my Carrera subway & that has 2 x 9 gearing. I had to remove the front derailleur & crank, so that's left me with a nine speed cassette. I've not experienced any major problems, bar a tiny bit more wear on the chain which I clean religiously after ever ride along with the cassette
You have got to be kidding or have never ridden with a torque sensor.With the right components, you don't need a torque sensor. Maybe it's time for you to upgrade to useful frame.
No, I'm not kidding I just never needed one, and yes, I have ridden several ebikes that rely on them (torque sensors) not to shred the drive train.You have got to be kidding or have never ridden with a torque sensor.
(not to shred the drive train.) No that would be a shift interrupter. A TS measure the amount of pressure your pushing on the pedals and magnifies it to your liking. Push a little get a little push a lot get a lot.No, I'm not kidding I just never needed one, and yes, I have ridden several ebikes that rely on them (torque sensors) not to shred the drive train.
Thanks, kid... I'm aware, they're both unnecessary when using a Rohloff Speedhub. Probably not inside your "box" of thought and experience. You know talk is cheap here right? Happy to look at whatever it is that you ride and tell you what I think.(not to shred the drive train.) No that would be a shift interrupter. A TS measure the amount of pressure your pushing on the pedals and magnifies it to your liking. Push a little get a little push a lot get a lot.
Chains aren't a problem other than that they wear quickly (stretch) and then wear gears.Youtube videos show people regularly commuting long distances on mid-drive bikes. Occasionally I hear about someone breaking a chain, but not often. Chains are cheap and easy to install. But assuming the chain really is the weak link (pun intended) to mid-drive ebikes, it's a safe bet manufacturers will come out with better built chains (if they haven't already).
Sram already has the EX-1 chain that is made for ebikes. Has solid rollers. Mid-drives are the way to go if you can afford it.Youtube videos show people regularly commuting long distances on mid-drive bikes. Occasionally I hear about someone breaking a chain, but not often. Chains are cheap and easy to install. But assuming the chain really is the weak link (pun intended) to mid-drive ebikes, it's a safe bet manufacturers will come out with better built chains (if they haven't already).
I've used EX-1 chains for a few years and they stretch within the 1st month or two at best. Yes, mid-drives are superior to hub-motors and if you "can afford it" they should be paired to a Speedhub... or rely on torque sensors and cut-out if you can't.Sram already has the EX-1 chain that is made for ebikes. Has solid rollers. Mid-drives are the way to go if you can afford it.