Longtime bike enthusiast. ebike noob.

For the type of cash yur wanting to spend...no hub motor will be hill friendly unless ya sink another $900+
into a worthy battery and another $400+ dollars to get a proper controller.

I have both mid drive and hub drive.

My hub drive is a 1500W voilamart cheapo kit that i got a better controller and battery for and it still prefers the flats over the hills and tops out at 47MPH...it does pull uphill better than it did in stock form, it just gets pissy when i introduce it to hills :D

My mid drive is a lunacycle.com BBSHD 1000W with offroad programmed controller and the display is an eggrider V2 which allows me to adjust all
parameters of the controller settings. eggrider.com for more details on that.

Now the mid drive is like a mountain goat it doesnt complain about hills, it just eats them up.

When i am in PAS 1 i only travel from 9 to 12MPH and on a good day with no head winds i can get over 90 miles on a little under 3/4
of the charge so that is a plus.
On the offroad setting i get maybe 50 miles per charge but it will take the bike up to 33MPH.

So really you'll have to decide what world ya wish to ride in and either build or buy.
Just so ya know though mate, when buying be sure you'll get help if needed...when building be sure to have plenty of spare parts in case
of supply chain drops..if that makes any sense ;)

I hope all that helps ya in some way or another.


Ride Safe :cool:


HP
 
Just to note both of my bikes are DIY and i Love them each for different reasons.

My hub drive is like puttin around town on the motorcycle but no noise, my mid drive is just the better commuter
that silently eats the hills up :)
 
So really you'll have to decide what world ya wish to ride in and either build or buy.
Based on what you've been telling me and my 'needs', I'd be taking your mid drive 1st and have the hub drive as a 2nd bike to kick around town or get groceries. I don't travel over 12 mph typically and having programmable control options sound appealing, in theory anyway.
PAS's are more bike trail legal in my state as well.
When i am in PAS 1 i only travel from 9 to 12MPH and on a good day with no head winds i can get over 90 miles on a little under 3/4
of the charge so that is a plus.
On the offroad setting i get maybe 50 miles per charge but it will take the bike up to 33MPH.
More answers lead to even more questions as I travel down the rabbit hole. o_O

My target is 60m with some hills and off road . Which seems close to what the limits are with current tech and guesstimating the BBSHD 1000W that can get you 90+m on a good day. I already figured early on that I would be an ebike miser when it comes to electricity and narrow my expectations early on.

Would there be any sort of advantage to downgrading to a 750w mid drive? Does the mid drive assist with braking in some fashion? Other than the PAS cutting off when I stop peddling?

Another thing I'm considering is theft. The more recognized brand bikes that would be too attractive. Removable and upgradable batteries as well.
Perhaps a custom bike might be less of a target? If I go that route, then perhaps shop for an ebike frame as a starting point? Any thoughts?
 
Based on what you've been telling me and my 'needs', I'd be taking your mid drive 1st and have the hub drive as a 2nd bike to kick around town or get groceries. I don't travel over 12 mph typically and having programmable control options sound appealing, in theory anyway.
PAS's are more bike trail legal in my state as well.

More answers lead to even more questions as I travel down the rabbit hole. o_O

My target is 60m with some hills and off road . Which seems close to what the limits are with current tech and guesstimating the BBSHD 1000W that can get you 90+m on a good day. I already figured early on that I would be an ebike miser when it comes to electricity and narrow my expectations early on.

Would there be any sort of advantage to downgrading to a 750w mid drive? Does the mid drive assist with braking in some fashion? Other than the PAS cutting off when I stop peddling?

Another thing I'm considering is theft. The more recognized brand bikes that would be too attractive. Removable and upgradable batteries as well.
Perhaps a custom bike might be less of a target? If I go that route, then perhaps shop for an ebike frame as a starting point? Any thoughts?
I'm sort of an E miser too :cool:

I wanted speed and power when i started building 3 years ago, then last year i decided i just wanted to putt around waving at friends and strangers LOL

Nothing really as far as dowgrading except the 750 will heat up hotter and faster than the 1000 will, under load.
The mid drives do not assist with the braking or regen at all, at least not the BBSXX builds i have done.

As far as theft goes, i have 2 cable locks, a huge U lock and a juiced bikes alarm, i figure if they get through the cables and the U lock while the alarm is going off then they can have it and i'll build again ;)

Here are a few pics of my bikes, https://ebikesforum.com/threads/whoaaaa.2451/

on the bottom of that page.

I ride the last one as my daily driver and the one in the first two pics is my putt around town hub drive.


I hope all this helps ya in some way mate :)



Ride Safe :cool:

HP
 
they seem to be out of the eggrider display so you'd have to source that on your own .... well their whole kits seem to be out of stock.... supply and demand thing i suppose.

Some people do not like that place or the owner....i've never had any issues with them at all.
 
About batteries, i forgot to mention the batteries i use are 52v (58.8v fully charged) 35ah, they are huge blocks of battery.
Am saving up to get a 60v 50ah battery which will be slightly larger and cost about $1900.00 + shipping and handling.

The higher ah the farther you can travel in the saddle.

Hope this helps :)



Ride Safe :cool:

HP
 
Don't forget dielectric grease for the battery terminals @Black100 for when ya shower your bike mate.
Sometimes water ingress is terrible even when though we think it won't happen...if that makes any sense ;)
 
Got that covered. I had the Local dealer liberally spray X2O lexuma on both bikes. I've ridden through knee high water pool brackish one too. So it's safe to say Bikes have been field tested. Thanks for the heads up.
Biktirix bike has dialectic grease on battery terminals. It can only be charged with battery in the bike.
Good man! :)
 
Nothing really as far as dowgrading except the 750 will heat up hotter and faster than the 1000 will, under load.
Well if there is no weight advantage of a 750 then I'll look at 1000w options first.

I have to worry about my disk brakes overheating when I travel over several downhills, so I was hoping to pair that problem with a motor braking option. Hence all my braking questions.
I ride the last one as my daily driver and the one in the first two pics is my putt around town hub drive.
E miser with both hub options, utilizing the strengths of each. :cool:

I inserted them perhaps to motivate you to go with a reliable ebike especially if you're going to ride a lot and being new to ebikes, dealer support is a plus.
Thanks so much for the motivation. I'm considering taking long bike trails that have small bike shops every 20 miles and bike charging options along the way. Don't want to get bogged down with power or mechanical issues if it is preventable.

Have you checked out the Cyrusher ebikes?
Yes, I'm putting this in my 'compare' list. For a mid-tier eMTB. (y)
Cyrusher XF650 Hardtail Electric Bike | 750W 16Ah/17Ah

About batteries, i forgot to mention the batteries i use are 52v (58.8v fully charged) 35ah, they are huge blocks of battery.
Am saving up to get a 60v 50ah battery which will be slightly larger and cost about $1900.00 + shipping and handling.

The higher ah the farther you can travel in the saddle.
$1900? So anyone care to help me have a common sense approach to batteries? The skeptical noob in me is saying something like, aren't these just stacked and soldered 18650's? :LOL: Sure there's more to it and other types of ebike and ebike friendly batteries exist. Just haven't delved into that yet. Well more answers lead to more questions.

Is there any sort of universal battery kits for DIY worthwhile? Or perhaps a few parts lists worth considering. I am trying to get a rough power to weight ratio as well.

Thanks everyone for the input, I will delve deeper.
Got that covered. I had the Local dealer liberally spray X2O lexuma on both bikes. I've ridden through knee high water pool brackish one too. So it's safe to say Bikes have been field tested. Thanks for the heads up.
Biktirix bike has dialectic grease on battery terminals. It can only be charged with battery in the bike.
Products that up the IPX rating of your gear? GAMECHANGER :love: Well there's another topic for me to research. :geek:

Another area I plan to revisit is tire tech. Especially tires that don't require air or are more forgiving if you get a puncture.
Even basic tire pads and slime can be added to the discussion.
You could say I'm quite TIRED of the PRESSURE of TIRE problems, that I had to let out some AIR .

Ride safe. :cool:
 
$1900? So anyone care to help me have a common sense approach to batteries? The skeptical noob in me is saying something like, aren't these just stacked and soldered 18650's? :LOL: Sure there's more to it and other types of ebike and ebike friendly batteries exist. Just haven't delved into that yet. Well more answers lead to more questions.

Is there any sort of universal battery kits for DIY worthwhile? Or perhaps a few parts lists worth considering. I am trying to get a rough power to weight ratio as well.

Thanks everyone for the input, I will delve deeper.

Products that up the IPX rating of your gear? GAMECHANGER :love: Well there's another topic for me to research. :geek:

Another area I plan to revisit is tire tech. Especially tires that don't require air or are more forgiving if you get a puncture.
Even basic tire pads and slime can be added to the discussion.
You could say I'm quite TIRED of the PRESSURE of TIRE problems, that I had to let out some AIR .

Ride safe. :cool:
The batteries i use are LiFePO4 pouch cells, so i wouldnt be sure about the 18650's lol arent they vape pen batteries?

If you'd like to build yur battery check out some ebike battery builders on facebook, there is a plethora of info and answers there
concerning building the batteries.

Just keep it simple mate ;)

When i started to overthink things i spent alot more money than i had wanted to :ROFLMAO:


Ride Safe mate :cool:

HP
 
Bw do you have any interest in a diy retrofit? I just did one for $1500 and it worked great. Tongsheng torque sensor pas. But you could do bafang bbshd for more power. That way you keep your bike that you know fits you.
 
Bw do you have any interest in a diy retrofit? I just did one for $1500 and it worked great. Tongsheng torque sensor pas. But you could do bafang bbshd for more power. That way you keep your bike that you know fits you.
Anything is on the table at this point. :unsure: I am also taking into consideration how well a motor would behave with my current bike. Guessing that some makes of bike frame can handle the extra weight at the crank over other models. The shorter parts list and installation might make that project even more of an attractive preposition. :) A bike frame that allows for more cable management might be a pursuit as well.
 
People are getting into a lot of specifics here, but I can pretty confidently say that if you keep it light, avoid fat tires and keep to your usual speeds, almost anything will do what you want.

Don’t worry so much about power, if what you really want is help on the hills.

The only problem is how fast you’ll get used to the power. I find myself pretty regularly cruising at 20 mph now, (inefficient fat tire bike) when my previous cruising speed on level ground was 13.

If I had the self restraint to keep it to 10 mph, I could probably go 40 miles easy, but I’m only getting 20 or so. 500 W hub motor, fat 4x 20” tires and a 15 Ah battery.
 
20220704_132059.jpg
 
Wouldn't worry too much about the donor bike. I purposely chose a cheap bike that I already owned, because I wanted to experience the worst case scenario. Happy with this set up, about 52 pounds total bike motor and battery. I'm running med skinny 32mm tires. Bike is set up with no throttle only pedal assist, 48v batt and motor. I peddle a lot lot and do 22% grade hills. Get 95 to100 mile range. Eco Cycles Nashville, David Hall been very helpful.
 
If interested in DIY batteries, check out the N.e.s.e. kit. 18650 dot lt.

Have followed this dude's work for several years. He has an engineering backround, and is ethical and trustworthy.

The Vruzend kits are total garbage.
 
I hope other new ebike users are getting some value from all of these posts. Definitely giving me a lot more to ponder over. :geek:

For the short term, I'm considering a rental ebike that somewhat resembles what I might consider buying. Perhaps a 2+ day rental. Ride it along my favorite bike trail for an overnight trek and gain some experience in the saddle. It's a matter of what is available to test in my area or at my destination. Ebike sharing programs might be re-emerging as well. So I'll revisit that topic as well.

2 future paths I'm considering when buying an ebike. Custom made top to bottom or Commercial brand ebike?
Or possibly upgrade a commercial brand to my specs? :unsure: Perhaps, I'd like an ebike friendly frame and with the preferred battery and motor combo in a less awkward placement by design. Best of both worlds.

Or do the slow upgrade path. Buy an ebike that has a decent frame that is compatible with 'standard' parts. Maybe with some cable/battery management built in the frame. Trade up the motor, battery and display over time. Like I do with my MTB now. With the best of all possible choices open to me in the future. (y)Whew!, Finally got that off my chest.
If interested in DIY batteries, check out the N.e.s.e. kit. 18650 dot lt.
DIY swappable batteries FTW? :D I guess it would boil down to the connection type?

I guess Bafang has a newer motor out as well. Look forward to hearing feedback on that.

Budget - under $1500. preferably with standardized or replaceable parts
Usage - Daily driver, trail riding and expedition. Bike to work 1m and 20+miles out of town on the weekends.
Expected range - 60 miles over hills with a full backpack.
Terrain - Off road and on - Roads, bike trails, Go anywhere, All weather.
Rider weight over $250.
Well, I will need to fully update this list at some point. Add mid-drive motor to the list. I'm fine with a Class 1 ebike. It more about range and hills and less about speed.

Noticing a trend while sifting online. There are quite a few $1500 mid drive motor, 40m range ebikes with Shimano parts, Bafang motor, etc for sale.
But for whatever reason, most are them are fat tires?

Ride Safe All :cool:
 
Choosing the best hybrid bike for noob it is difficult but there are a few things you will need to take into consideration. I am using the Hiland Hybrid Bike, which has It features an aluminum frame, 700c wheels, 38c tires, and 7 gears so you can tackle long distances with ease. Whether you’re riding through rough roads or smooth highways, that bike will keep up with your pace. But it has Only one size and Without suspension, it may feel uncomfortable on bumpy roads. Except for these two things, I loved its Lightweight yet sturdy aluminum frame, Smooth shifting between gears Upright riding position, Easy assembly, 3 colors with male and female styles, Comfortable saddle, and a Chain guard to protect the rider’s clothes, and Double brakes. you can try this out.
 
The batteries i use are LiFePO4 pouch cells, so i wouldnt be sure about the 18650's lol arent they vape pen batteries?

If you'd like to build yur battery check out some ebike battery builders on facebook, there is a plethora of info and answers there
concerning building the batteries.

Just keep it simple mate ;)

When i started to overthink things i spent alot more money than i had wanted to :ROFLMAO:


Ride Safe mate :cool:

HP
A Tesla battery pack is "just" a bunch of 18650's. 7,104 of them, to be exact.
 
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