KT‑LCD7C Color Display Panel programing help

Okay I broke the seal on the motor. 20 magnets on the out side 18 on inside. 1 on the outer cap. 3 gears. With this info could someone help with the settings with the controller?
 

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p1-100 p2-1 p3-1 p4-0 p5-0 c1-2 c2-0 c3-8 c4-0 c5-10 c6-1 c7-1 c8-0 c9-0 c10-n c11-0 c12-4 c13-0 c14-2 c15-6 l1-0 l2-0 l3-1 c4-5
Still no motor movement.
Any way to short the motor or hot wire it to see if the motor is still good?
 
m@ is the expert on setting up KT controllers but until he shows up if you want to watch High tech Low Life on YouTube, he might help you tell if there is anything else going on. He is pretty smart, despite his silly costume.
Screenshot_20250107-163139_Chrome.jpg
 
OK so I see 20 magnets, and despite all the holes for speed sensor magnets, there's only one of those in there.

  • P1=100 assumes you have a 5:1 reduction. If you haven't counted the gears, 5:1 seems like a pretty good guess.
  • P2=1 tracks with only one magnet being in place in the magnet holes.
  • P3=1 sets the throttle to be independent of PAS level so thats fine.
  • P4=0 sets the throttle to zero-startup so thats good
  • P5=0 sets the battery to 'real time voltage' which as far as I can tell never works. I don't think it matters but I'd set it to something like 15 just to make sure you have something totally innocuous there.
  • C1=2 is lowest PAS sensitivity if you have a 5-magnet PAS sensor. Make sure you have this right as 5 magnets is unusual. The PAS sensor is the little disc on the drive side (typically) behind the chainring, mounted to the bottom bracket spindle. If your PAS sensor is on the non-drive side you may need to reverse the sensor (unless the seller reversed it themselves on the mount ring but we can not worry about that right now). If you get this wrong it will only affect PAS so thats not your problem.
  • C2=0 should be correct IF your KT controller is a sine wave unit. Otherwise it should use 2 thru 7. I have never used anything but zero. However square-wave KT controllers do exist so maybe this is where the problem is?
  • C3=8 is definitely wrong. I have a "written by native English speaker" LCD3 manual that says "The setting range for the C3 parameters are 0-8 (0-5 are only used. Production errors produced additional settings of 6-8." I suggest setting that to 1 so it is at PAS1 when you start up.
  • C4=0 gives you a zero startup handlebar to go along with your P4 setting. Check.
  • C5=10 gives full power at the steepest power curve. Thats fine, but note that 00, 01 and 02 are also full amps but they lessen the onset of full power, with 00 being the gentlest, 01 being a bit less and 02 a bit less gentle than 01. I set all mine to 00. YMMV.
  • C6 and C7 are personal preference. C8 is correct cuz no temp sensor. C9 and C10 are what you want for no startup PIN.
  • C11 is about the communication protocols the display uses between it and the controller. I have always used 0 here but if you are troubleshooting be methodical and see if 1 or 2 gets you anywhere.
  • C12=4 is the default and not related to whether the motor works unless your battery is near-dead. C13=0 is fine. C14=2 is fine but if you get this thing working, maybe you want to revisit this to bump up or down the PAS power increment. I've never seen C15 actually make any difference in walking throttle speed no matter how you set it. None of the L settings matter in the context of making the motor work.
A couple avenues to explore here. Usually its not this tough to nail down. You just deal with the P settings and it works.
 
m@Robertson said:
OK so I see 20 magnets, and despite all the holes for speed sensor magnets, there's only one of those in there.

  • P1=100 assumes you have a 5:1 reduction. If you haven't counted the gears, 5:1 seems like a pretty good guess.
  • P2=1 tracks with only one magnet being in place in the magnet holes.
  • P3=1 sets the throttle to be independent of PAS level so thats fine.
  • P4=0 sets the throttle to zero-startup so thats good
  • P5=0 sets the battery to 'real time voltage' which as far as I can tell never works. I don't think it matters but I'd set it to something like 15 just to make sure you have something totally innocuous there.
  • C1=2 is lowest PAS sensitivity if you have a 5-magnet PAS sensor. Make sure you have this right as 5 magnets is unusual. The PAS sensor is the little disc on the drive side (typically) behind the chainring, mounted to the bottom bracket spindle. If your PAS sensor is on the non-drive side you may need to reverse the sensor (unless the seller reversed it themselves on the mount ring but we can not worry about that right now). If you get this wrong it will only affect PAS so thats not your problem.
  • C2=0 should be correct IF your KT controller is a sine wave unit. Otherwise it should use 2 thru 7. I have never used anything but zero. However square-wave KT controllers do exist so maybe this is where the problem is?
  • C3=8 is definitely wrong. I have a "written by native English speaker" LCD3 manual that says "The setting range for the C3 parameters are 0-8 (0-5 are only used. Production errors produced additional settings of 6-8." I suggest setting that to 1 so it is at PAS1 when you start up.
  • C4=0 gives you a zero startup handlebar to go along with your P4 setting. Check.
  • C5=10 gives full power at the steepest power curve. Thats fine, but note that 00, 01 and 02 are also full amps but they lessen the onset of full power, with 00 being the gentlest, 01 being a bit less and 02 a bit less gentle than 01. I set all mine to 00. YMMV.
  • C6 and C7 are personal preference. C8 is correct cuz no temp sensor. C9 and C10 are what you want for no startup PIN.
  • C11 is about the communication protocols the display uses between it and the controller. I have always used 0 here but if you are troubleshooting be methodical and see if 1 or 2 gets you anywhere.
  • C12=4 is the default and not related to whether the motor works unless your battery is near-dead. C13=0 is fine. C14=2 is fine but if you get this thing working, maybe you want to revisit this to bump up or down the PAS power increment. I've never seen C15 actually make any difference in walking throttle speed no matter how you set it. None of the L settings matter in the context of making the motor work.
A couple avenues to explore here. Usually its not this tough to nail down. You just deal with the P settings and it works.
Click to expand...
Thanks tried a bunch of different combos still no go. You know of a way too jump the motor with voltage to see if it is working?
 
m@Robertson said:
OK so I see 20 magnets, and despite all the holes for speed sensor magnets, there's only one of those in there.

  • P1=100 assumes you have a 5:1 reduction. If you haven't counted the gears, 5:1 seems like a pretty good guess.
  • P2=1 tracks with only one magnet being in place in the magnet holes.
  • P3=1 sets the throttle to be independent of PAS level so thats fine.
  • P4=0 sets the throttle to zero-startup so thats good
  • P5=0 sets the battery to 'real time voltage' which as far as I can tell never works. I don't think it matters but I'd set it to something like 15 just to make sure you have something totally innocuous there.
  • C1=2 is lowest PAS sensitivity if you have a 5-magnet PAS sensor. Make sure you have this right as 5 magnets is unusual. The PAS sensor is the little disc on the drive side (typically) behind the chainring, mounted to the bottom bracket spindle. If your PAS sensor is on the non-drive side you may need to reverse the sensor (unless the seller reversed it themselves on the mount ring but we can not worry about that right now). If you get this wrong it will only affect PAS so thats not your problem.
  • C2=0 should be correct IF your KT controller is a sine wave unit. Otherwise it should use 2 thru 7. I have never used anything but zero. However square-wave KT controllers do exist so maybe this is where the problem is?
  • C3=8 is definitely wrong. I have a "written by native English speaker" LCD3 manual that says "The setting range for the C3 parameters are 0-8 (0-5 are only used. Production errors produced additional settings of 6-8." I suggest setting that to 1 so it is at PAS1 when you start up.
  • C4=0 gives you a zero startup handlebar to go along with your P4 setting. Check.
  • C5=10 gives full power at the steepest power curve. Thats fine, but note that 00, 01 and 02 are also full amps but they lessen the onset of full power, with 00 being the gentlest, 01 being a bit less and 02 a bit less gentle than 01. I set all mine to 00. YMMV.
  • C6 and C7 are personal preference. C8 is correct cuz no temp sensor. C9 and C10 are what you want for no startup PIN.
  • C11 is about the communication protocols the display uses between it and the controller. I have always used 0 here but if you are troubleshooting be methodical and see if 1 or 2 gets you anywhere.
  • C12=4 is the default and not related to whether the motor works unless your battery is near-dead. C13=0 is fine. C14=2 is fine but if you get this thing working, maybe you want to revisit this to bump up or down the PAS power increment. I've never seen C15 actually make any difference in walking throttle speed no matter how you set it. None of the L settings matter in the context of making the motor work.
A couple avenues to explore here. Usually its not this tough to nail down. You just deal with the P settings and it works.
Click to expand...
m@, I don't know if this makes any difference at all, but I just went back to the beginning of this thread and this controller is one that comes inside the battery base. I didn't know KT even made these. People on the forums have consistent problems with this design. Do you know about them, or is this a counterfeit?
Screenshot_20250108-171204_Chrome.jpg
 
Annieolnie said:
m@, I don't know if this makes any difference at all, but I just went back to the beginning of this thread and this controller is one that comes inside the battery base. I didn't know KT even made these. People on the forums have consistent problems with this design. Do you know about them, or is this a counterfeit? View attachment 18008
Click to expand...
I do not know about them. That was why I purchased the kit. Controller cables and display;
 
Controllers in the base eventually have troubles either due to the battery sliding in and out jarring the circuit board or from the battery sitting on top of the controller and not allowing heat dissipation. I did not know KT even made this type. It might be a good idea to put a multimeter on the plug leading to the motor, to see if you actually have power getting there. I think m@ will know if this is an actual KT controller.
 
snowlover4u2005 said:
You know of a way too jump the motor with voltage to see if it is working?
Click to expand...
No. Its not something people do as an uncontrolled direct battery connection will not give you anything usable and I suspect will fry something.
Annieolnie said:
m@, I don't know if this makes any difference at all, but I just went back to the beginning of this thread and this controller is one that comes inside the battery base. I didn't know KT even made these. People on the forums have consistent problems with this design. Do you know about them, or is this a counterfeit?
Click to expand...
I've never seen one of these myself. It could be KT-compatible only given the level of truth in advertising you get on AliExpress. And... now that you show me the listing... that controller costs LESS than 10% of what a KT controller from Chiiinnna should cost. I mean seriously... a component you ship on a boat all the way over from China and it still costs only three bucks, and that $3 leaves room for profit? I pay about $60 (delivered) for my 30a KT controllers bought direct via a Chinese seller. If thats the product he has, I can't believe its a real KT.

And we don't know if any of the other ancillary bits are causing this. This would not be the first time a throttle is wired funky and bricked a motor via the controller. Stuff like this is only ruled out via methodical trial and error (and $).

But a $3 controller from Ali ... I wouldn't trust it.
 
m@Robertson said:
No. Its not something people do as an uncontrolled direct battery connection will not give you anything usable and I suspect will fry something.

I've never seen one of these myself. It could be KT-compatible only given the level of truth in advertising you get on AliExpress. And... now that you show me the listing... that controller costs LESS than 10% of what a KT controller from Chiiinnna should cost. I mean seriously... a component you ship on a boat all the way over from China and it still costs only three bucks, and that $3 leaves room for profit? I pay about $60 (delivered) for my 30a KT controllers bought direct via a Chinese seller. If thats the product he has, I can't believe its a real KT.

And we don't know if any of the other ancillary bits are causing this. This would not be the first time a throttle is wired funky and bricked a motor via the controller. Stuff like this is only ruled out via methodical trial and error (and $).

But a $3 controller from Ali ... I wouldn't trust it.
Click to expand...
No, this is how aliexpress likes to lure you in from Google. Notice the small pic. boxes. The $3.00 will be for that little 9 pin pigtail cable. The 48 volt controller is $60.00 so maybe it is real. I just never saw this style being done by them before.
 
Well I have 4 pieces left to try. Motor, Throttle, brake switches and sensor at the crank. Sensor I would not think is the issue nor the brake switches tried those disconnected and same thing. Plus the crank sensor is that not just for pedal assist?
 
Over on the thread, " Corroded molex connectors" we were working with someone who was just learning how to test. If you hop over there you can find some links to use for testing a throttle and a controller with a couple of household batteries in series. You can see if that helps. Have you tested your 9 pin plug to see if it has power and ground coming out of the controller?
 
Annieolnie said:
Over on the thread, " Corroded molex connectors" we were working with someone who was just learning how to test. If you hop over there you can find some links to use for testing a throttle and a controller with a couple of household batteries in series. You can see if that helps. Have you tested your 9 pin plug to see if it has power and ground coming out of the controller?
Click to expand...
I ASSumed if the display worked I have voltage?
 
Well, does the motor have voltage? I know the setup is convoluted, but you've been doing a good job with it, so I'm wondering how the controller tests, or if it is sending power to the motor.
 
Do you have a multimeter? This is a pinout diagram from Aliexpress. Notice the connecting arrow is at the top. With the battery out, you should be able to check for continuity.
Screenshot_20250111-093358_Chrome.jpg
 
Annieolnie said:
Do you have a multimeter? This is a pinout diagram from Aliexpress. Notice the connecting arrow is at the top. With the battery out, you should be able to check for continuity.View attachment 18075
Click to expand...
Did some more testing. On the back of the controller PCB there is etching that says 5V 12V 4.5V They all read 2.5V on volt meter. I'm thinking about taking a different approach to the problem child. I know I have a good battery. Controllers I think are both bad. Motor I think might be good. So lets say I scrap the battery control style config and purchase a external controller. Maybe be able to use my throttle, brake switches, Motor, and pedal assist sensor. Is there such an animal I could buy? Any recommended path more traveled I could venture down?
 
snowlover4u2005 said:
Did some more testing. On the back of the controller PCB there is etching that says 5V 12V 4.5V They all read 2.5V on volt meter. I'm thinking about taking a different approach to the problem child. I know I have a good battery. Controllers I think are both bad. Motor I think might be good. So lets say I scrap the battery control style config and purchase a external controller. Maybe be able to use my throttle, brake switches, Motor, and pedal assist sensor. Is there such an animal I could buy? Any recommended path more traveled I could venture down?
Click to expand...
You've already bought a KT display. You should be able to just get the controller. I'll post a pic. from Aliexpress. This is the Someday Bike Store. When I was looking for a proper Bafang hub motor, these guys had legitimate specs that matched up. So, I trust them more than some others. Just read all their stats carefully to make sure you get what you want. I pulled up a 22 amp sinewave, thinking that would be close to what you are looking for.
 

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Awesome thank you. Did more testing. I must have had a voltage spike or short. My original cable and display both test bad using the new display and old controller. The 5V appears when I disconnect the motor. Hope that's not shorted also.
 
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