KT‑LCD7C Color Display Panel programing help

snowlover4u2005

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Purchased this on E-bay need help setting up .
Electric Bike For KT‑LCD7C Color Display Panel E‑Bike 24/36/48V Waterproof Plug
This off Ali Ebike Hailong Polly Controller KT Sine Wave Motor Controller 15A 22A 36V/48V 250W- 500W Julet 9 Pins Cable Julet 1-2/1-4
I have another post that is looking for help identifing my old controller. No luck with that. Figure I would replace it all. Controller, display and cables.
My original controller got wet and shorted out. Pretty much a brand new bike. No warranty from tempu.
I'm ready to give up. PLEASE can some one help. Thank you
 
Purchased this on E-bay need help setting up .
Electric Bike For KT‑LCD7C Color Display Panel E‑Bike 24/36/48V Waterproof Plug
This off Ali Ebike Hailong Polly Controller KT Sine Wave Motor Controller 15A 22A 36V/48V 250W- 500W Julet 9 Pins Cable Julet 1-2/1-4
I have another post that is looking for help identifing my old controller. No luck with that. Figure I would replace it all. Controller, display and cables.
My original controller got wet and shorted out. Pretty much a brand new bike. No warranty from tempu.
I'm ready to give up. PLEASE can some one help. Thank you
 
Links to eBay may include affiliate code. If you click on an eBay link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
D is the one I ordered
 
Links to eBay may include affiliate code. If you click on an eBay link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
Purchased this on E-bay need help setting up .
Electric Bike For KT‑LCD7C Color Display Panel E‑Bike 24/36/48V Waterproof Plug
This off Ali Ebike Hailong Polly Controller KT Sine Wave Motor Controller 15A 22A 36V/48V 250W- 500W Julet 9 Pins Cable Julet 1-2/1-4
I have another post that is looking for help identifing my old controller. No luck with that. Figure I would replace it all. Controller, display and cables.
My original controller got wet and shorted out. Pretty much a brand new bike. No warranty from tempu.
I'm ready to give up. PLEASE can some one help. Thank you
I also tried a LCD-s866 With the new controller the battery displays the correct level. Where as the KT shows no battery status. Still cant get the motor to turn on using the thumb or pedal assist.
 
So, KT controllers all have a single interface to get at their settings, and that requires a KT display to get at those settings. It looks like you have both, although I am not familiar with either that controller or that particular display. Still, I have been working with KT displays and controllers for many years.

"KT" is short for Suzhou Kunteng Electronics Co. Ltd. just so you know. If you google "KT LCD7 user manual" you get a link to this page:


That is the 'short' version of the manual (all KT displays have these) and it will give you the displays features, but does not describe the interface into the settings.

Click around on the other pages that google search brings up, and you will find a link to the proper 'long' manual that gives you all the internal settings. This is what you need to change the controller's settings to your individual motor, and then to set up additional features.


The first link is found at the actual KT web site. The second one is at some random reseller. It is not at all unusual to have to dig up manuals at weird locations like this for KT manuals.

Rather than explain to you how to get into the LCD7's settings interface, I'm just going to link you to this video.



Now, this vid is not dedicated to the LCD7, but to all intents and purposes all KT displays work the same when it comes to how to get into their settings interface (the stuff covered by the short manual), and then to be able to dig down deeper into the "P" and "C" parameters (the stuff covered by the long manual).

Just watch the video and see how you get into the settings for the LCD3. Its the same for the LCD7 so once you see how its done do the same thing for your display.

The initial "P" settings that define stuff like motor magnets are probably what it is that you need to plug in to get your motor running.
 
So, KT controllers all have a single interface to get at their settings, and that requires a KT display to get at those settings. It looks like you have both, although I am not familiar with either that controller or that particular display. Still, I have been working with KT displays and controllers for many years.

"KT" is short for Suzhou Kunteng Electronics Co. Ltd. just so you know. If you google "KT LCD7 user manual" you get a link to this page:


That is the 'short' version of the manual (all KT displays have these) and it will give you the displays features, but does not describe the interface into the settings.

Click around on the other pages that google search brings up, and you will find a link to the proper 'long' manual that gives you all the internal settings. This is what you need to change the controller's settings to your individual motor, and then to set up additional features.


The first link is found at the actual KT web site. The second one is at some random reseller. It is not at all unusual to have to dig up manuals at weird locations like this for KT manuals.

Rather than explain to you how to get into the LCD7's settings interface, I'm just going to link you to this video.



Now, this vid is not dedicated to the LCD7, but to all intents and purposes all KT displays work the same when it comes to how to get into their settings interface (the stuff covered by the short manual), and then to be able to dig down deeper into the "P" and "C" parameters (the stuff covered by the long manual).

Just watch the video and see how you get into the settings for the LCD3. Its the same for the LCD7 so once you see how its done do the same thing for your display.

The initial "P" settings that define stuff like motor magnets are probably what it is that you need to plug in to get your motor running.

WOW Great youtube video. Im digging in tring to figure out the motor.
JS170-48V 20210501509 Is the numbers I canfind on it.
Thank you very much. At least I have more to work with.
 
Okay I ran threw the programing a number of times. Not as intimidating as the first time threw. Tried a few different settings not knowing the magnet config of the motor. Still can not get the motor to activate. Is there a way to test the thumb throttle and motor individually? Unplugged and reconnected all connection. Still no go. Any ideas where to look next?
 
Just a thought, what is your actual ebike? Sometimes digging around specs and reviews you can find info on the motor, such as magnet count.
 
Just a thought, what is your actual ebike? Sometimes digging around specs and reviews you can find info on the motor, such as magnet count.
1735921097438.png
 
So, I dropped the picture from the manual into Google lense and your bike, I believe, is on Amazon. It is made be "Superhandsome" ebike Co. They have a Facebook page. They even have a phone number, but you might do better with the email. See if they can tell you who makes your motor.
Screenshot_20250103-131920_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20250103-132326_Chrome.jpg
 
Emailed them still waiting on responce back. Mean time been trying a number of diffent setups still cant get the bike to run off the motor. Voltage checks out ok. No meter but the listed voltage matches volt meter. Took some pic's of the setup if someone could maybe shed some lite on whar I aim doing wrong?
 

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The stuff that tailors your controller to the motor is P1 thru P5.

P1 is the product of a calculation where you multiply the number of physical magnets in your motor by the reduction ratio of your geared hub. So for example my Bafang motors have 20 magnets and a 5.1 reduction ration, so that works out to P1=100.

P2 is the number of speed sensor magnets on your motor. For my motors this is P2=6. If P2=1 then the display thinks there's one speed signal per wheel rotation. If in fact there are 6 sensors and you set this to 1, your speed reading will be way off since the display will think every time your wheel passes by a magnet its done a full revolution.

You have P3 set to 1 which is a good thing. This is the 'imitation torque control' which sets KT controllers apart from pretty much every other cadence sensing controller and gives you a much more refined pedal assist experience.

P4 is how the throttle activates. P4=0 means you can use the throttle without having to be pedaling first.

P5 is the battery capacity. Play around with this (*set it higher) to try and get the little icon to be a little less inaccurate :-) Actually with a KT display you get real time voltage display so getting this one right is very much optional (and also almost impossible in my experience).

Thats it. Get P1 thru P4 right and assuming no other problems exist (like for instance assuming your throttle and pedal assist sensor are compatible with the controller) you have config'd your display to your motor. Everything else is ancillary.
 
Also... unfortunately, you bought a super cheap no-name bike that uses God only knows what for parts and a motor, so there's no guarantee any of this will work as a result. Keep trying, but be aware that you are close to a worst-case situation in terms of quality here.
 
Also... unfortunately, you bought a super cheap no-name bike that uses God only knows what for parts and a motor, so there's no guarantee any of this will work as a result. Keep trying, but be aware that you are close to a worst-case situation in terms of quality here.
I get it. Just hard to believe I'm the first to go down this path.
 
I get it. Just hard to believe I'm the first to go down this path.
You're the first to go down this path on this brand of bike. Unfortunately given the nature of these companies we can't say from one production batch to another what parts they are using, so our advice is only going to be educated guesswork rather than wild-ass guesswork.

If the manufacturer used a Bafang hub motor, you'd be in a lot better shape. But the specs in the manual just describe the motor as 'powerful brushless' so the manufacturer is clearly keeping their options open as to what it is they put on the bike. You literally just are going to have to do your best to plod forward until you either figure out the winning combination, replace the parts causing trouble, or you give up.

Believe me I'm not wagging my finger at you or being smug... I'm just trying to be realistic about what you are up against.

Any idea what the motor is that they used? Maybe some pics of the casing showing all of its markings, and a look from the side so we can see the full profile? If you can figure out the magnet count and the gear reduction, you should be able to get that controller and display working.
 
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