You need to just keep at it on the P5 setting, which you have already figured out adjusts the graphical battery display. Voltage is not the only factor that affects display. Capacity plays a role in what you set it to.
Regardless, that graphic is almost always junk. I have been using the KT-LCD3, LCD8 (a color version in the same casing) and the Eggrider-sized LCD4 for many years. They all have very good numeric voltage readings and very dodgy graphical display. On some newer versions you can set P5=0 and it will auto-detect. But I have found this does not work at all on the LCD4 despite the manual saying otherwise. Give that setting a shot and see what happens.
Realistically, you should ignore the graphic and learn what the voltage numbers mean. That is vastly more useful, and takes very little time to become familiar with. The charts below have a little Quick Reference segment that I know some people have printed on paper, cut out the little box and planted on their handlebars. Just enough info to get them by until they don't need it anymore.
Whats an 80% charge on a 48v battery? These charts give answers to questions like this on common ebike battery voltages: 36v, 48v, 52v, 60v and 72v.
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