Juiced Scrambler X2 only works in walk mode

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Emotional-Macaron-66

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Apologies in advanced for my frustration. I been posting to different e-bike forums for help trying to bring my kids two Scrambler X2 e-bikes back to life. I have sourced various parts on the journey, most recently from Pallowan with two new Juiced color displays. These temperamental hunks of mental have finally beaten me. Whether it’s the displays or the controllers, nothing has worked. I now have four proprietary Juiced displays and three Juiced controllers and none of them work properly. For a brief period one bike worked for a hot second only for it to fail again as soon as I swapped the parts around trying to get the other hunk of mental moving again. A huge lesson learned. I suspect the controllers are the problem but who knows at this point. It’s not clear why swapping around parts would make anything corrupt. Both bikes will work in walk mode but that is it. Nothing else. The displays work, no errors. There doesn’t appear to be any method to truly reset the controllers or hook them to a PC to test them. I am very practical but have been beaten. I am reluctant to throw any more money at the situation. I have taken them to multiple e-bike specialists for help and they advised to just junk them. Unless this forum can help I will just list them for parts. Such a waste of money, time and effort.
 
Emotional-Macaron-66 said:
Apologies in advanced for my frustration. I been posting to different e-bike forums for help trying to bring my kids two Scrambler X2 e-bikes back to life. I have sourced various parts on the journey, most recently from Pallowan with two new Juiced color displays. These temperamental hunks of mental have finally beaten me. Whether it’s the displays or the controllers, nothing has worked. I now have four proprietary Juiced displays and three Juiced controllers and none of them work properly. For a brief period one bike worked for a hot second only for it to fail again as soon as I swapped the parts around trying to get the other hunk of mental moving again. A huge lesson learned. I suspect the controllers are the problem but who knows at this point. It’s not clear why swapping around parts would make anything corrupt. Both bikes will work in walk mode but that is it. Nothing else. The displays work, no errors. There doesn’t appear to be any method to truly reset the controllers or hook them to a PC to test them. I am very practical but have been beaten. I am reluctant to throw any more money at the situation. I have taken them to multiple e-bike specialists for help and they advised to just junk them. Unless this forum can help I will just list them for parts. Such a waste of money, time and effort.
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I'm probably being redundant, but you've done things like disconnected the brake, motor cutoff sensors which can allow for walk mode to run and nothing else. We just had someone with a Wired Scout with this problem and they did a hard reset and it fixed it. That thread is from Felix the Cat if you want to read it. If your display is running have you checked all of the advanced settings to see how they are set? If your pedal assist is turned off and your throttle is broken (or vice, versa) you could end up like this. Don't give up quite yet, just take a break and then let us know what you find.
 
Annieolnie said:
I'm probably being redundant, but you've done things like disconnected the brake, motor cutoff sensors which can allow for walk mode to run and nothing else. We just had someone with a Wired Scout with this problem and they did a hard reset and it fixed it. That thread is from Felix the Cat if you want to read it. If your display is running have you checked all of the advanced settings to see how they are set? If your pedal assist is turned off and your throttle is broken (or vice, versa) you could end up like this. Don't give up quite yet, just take a break and then let us know what you find.
Click to expand...
Definitely done the hard reset multiple times. I’m pretty sure it’s the controller again. I tried the brakes without luck.
 
Haven’t been able to source any Juiced replacement controllers. Contacted all the brands that may have picked up the old Juiced parts stock. Thought I had found some on eBay but they look like they are 30A whereas the Scrambler X2 is 25A. Also looks like it has an extra wire too. Probably not worth taking the chance to accumulate more useless parts. Junking two bikes is sadly next.
 
Great! You can take out your battery, unplug your controller and unplug the motor. Your motor plug should be male, I'm guessing a 9 pin. The large pins are your phase wires and you can test them for resistance. They should be about the same. You can also test them for continuity with the frame to see if there is a short. There are a number of YouTube videos on this. You can also "cog" your motor by clipping alligator clips ( that are connected with wire)!to different phase pins on that plug and spinning your motor backwards it should stutter with each magnet. If any 2 phase connections don't stutter it means that wire is off or shorted. I'm throwing a lot at you but I will put a bunch of videos and info below. There are also other tests but we might as well start here.
Screenshot_20250914-124109_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20250914-123957_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20250914-123905_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20250914-123920_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20250914-124418_Chrome.jpg

Emotional-Macaron-66 said:
Haven’t been able to source any Juiced replacement controllers. Contacted all the brands that may have picked up the old Juiced parts stock. Thought I had found some on eBay but they look like they are 30A whereas the Scrambler X2 is 25A. Also looks like it has an extra wire too. Probably not worth taking the chance to accumulate more useless parts. Junking two bikes is sadly next.
Click to expand...
I'm here posting some info for you. If you can find the problem and fix it you can always go with independent controllers like KT.
 
Annieolnie said:
Great! You can take out your battery, unplug your controller and unplug the motor. Your motor plug should be male, I'm guessing a 9 pin. The large pins are your phase wires and you can test them for resistance. They should be about the same. You can also test them for continuity with the frame to see if there is a short. There are a number of YouTube videos on this. You can also "cog" your motor by clipping alligator clips ( that are connected with wire)!to different phase pins on that plug and spinning your motor backwards it should stutter with each magnet. If any 2 phase connections don't stutter it means that wire is off or shorted. I'm throwing a lot at you but I will put a bunch of videos and info below. There are also other tests but we might as well start here.
View attachment 21841View attachment 21842View attachment 21844View attachment 21845View attachment 21847

I'm here posting some info for you. If you can find the problem and fix it you can always go with independent controllers like KT.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
No worries, if you end up hating all of this, don't throw everything away. You can put the parts on here for sale. There are a number of scavengers among us, but I think you can figure it out. :)
 
Annieolnie said:
No worries, if you end up hating all of this, don't throw everything away. You can put the parts on here for sale. There are a number of scavengers among us, but I think you can figure it out. :)
Click to expand...
That is the route I may end up taking given all the analysis will most likely end up pointing to the controller which is no longer available. If there is a third-party 52V 25A compatible controller out there for my Juiced please send links. I was looking at a Juiced controller on eBay but it looks like it is for a Ripcurrent. All the wiring looks the same except for one extra wire with a five or six pin connector. I don’t know if this would work to give basic functionality to the bike. Any advice on this point is welcomed.
 
You can always put in a KT controller with a KT display. Displays always have to match their controllers. Even a single company may have different controllers and displays over the course of an ebike model that are not compatible with one another. There is a thread on here "Seeking Guidance on Controller Replacement" by AmyRides. This thread pretty much walks you through installing a KT controller. The good thing about them is that they can be programmed. I just ordered one from Aliexpress that is a 52v, 30 amp but I can set the amps lower if I wish.
 
Annieolnie said:
You can always put in a KT controller with a KT display. Displays always have to match their controllers. Even a single company may have different controllers and displays over the course of an ebike model that are not compatible with one another. There is a thread on here "Seeking Guidance on Controller Replacement" by AmyRides. This thread pretty much walks you through installing a KT controller. The good thing about them is that they can be programmed. I just ordered one from Aliexpress that is a 52v, 30 amp but I can set the amps lower if I wish.
Click to expand...
Can you link me to that one and the display please
 
Here are some pictures of the controller that I am trying to find a replacement for. If any of the Juiced specialists out there could help answered my question about the whether a Ripcurrent controller would work? Looks like a close match but is 30A rather than 25A and there seems to be an extra wire.
IMG_9737.jpeg
 

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