Jetson Haze

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mickand

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Jun 9, 2023
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guilford ct
Full bars on the battery gauge, initial power for about 2 seconds then no power. Any ideas? Initially I thought it was poor male/female contact connexions and an electrical spray initially helped, but no more.
Would be prepared to buy a new battery but continually out of stock.
 
First idea is that I have very little to go on.

How old is it, how many miles on it, how many charge cycles?

What happened to it the last time it did work, and in between then and now, when it does not work.

Is the battery gauge on the battery or on the display, what does it show after it fails?

Probe the battery leads with a voltmeter.

Carefully check all contacts for looseness in their mounting, and examine wires for cuts or damage.

What type or brand of "electrical spray" was used, and describe in detail exactly how it "helped" and for how long, in miles or feet and/or days, minutes, hours, or seconds.

I really want to know, for the "electrical spray", does it have a battery or plug into a wall outlet?
 
6 months old, 700? miles, 70? charge cycles.
2 trips ago and fully charged, it ran ok for about 4 miles, then quit - 3 bars were still up on the battery indicator.
Yesterday, again fully charged, it ran for about 2 miles then quit with 4 bars still up.
Both times after failure, the battery indicator still shows the charge is up and stays that way.
I used an aerosol electrical cleaning/conductivity spray - thought it helped but maybe not.
Since my original post, I tried to clean up the female battery contacts with a small detail file.
During this I noticed one of the female battery contacts is slightly loose in the housing - I'm thinking this could be the culprit.
I tried to source a new battery as a backup, but they are not available.
Yesterday, I ordered a new Haze - a refurbished one for $400. The logic was really to get a spare battery. The batteries, if ever available are $150 - so for $400 I get the complete bike.
However, does anyone know if the battery can be sourced elsewhere?
 
Good odds you are correct on the loose contact.

How many miles do you usually get on a full charge, 15 or so?

Using a digital volt meter, these are cheap, you can probe, and put pressure on that contact while moving the pin. Not sure the voltage rating, look on the charger for the correct number. 42, 50.4, 54.6, should be one of those. Check current voltage, pressure the contact around, look for changes, then charge full and repeat.

Measure carefully the space you have, likely you can get a generic shrinkwrap battery on Amazon or similar.
 
At long last, I have a new battery - bought a new complete refurbished bike for $400 - battery if ever available is $150.
Fitted the new battery to the old bike and same problem - it gives a 1 second spurt of power then nothing.
Thinking it must be the motor?
All ideas welcome.
The bike is 9 months old and in theory still in warranty. I have no idea how good their warranty may be.
 
You say it is the same problem. The PROBLEM was, 4 miles and quit, then 2 miles and quit. Now it is 1 second. THAT IS DIFFERENT.

If you are saying those two things are the same, then I am not sure I can be of any further assistance.

Second time I ask - WHERE IS THE BATTERY CHARGE INDICATOR??? On the battery itself, or somewhere else?

You need a digital voltmeter, preferably with two digits past the decimal, to diagnose a battery. They are very inexpensive.

WHEN IT FAILS - Does it shut completely off, no power to handlebar display, no lights at all, or is it just no motor power? Can you wait a minute or so and turn it back on? If not, then what do you do to try it again? DETAIL THIS. If you dance the hokey-pokey for 5 minutes, then it works again, I want to know!

Have you tried the original battery again, and what happens when you change the ONE component which seems to be the primary source of the problem?
 
It doesn’t sound like a bad contact to me. Sounds like an electronic fault; trying to prevent an overload.

Cash in on the warranty and quit pulling out your hair.
 
There is a low voltage cutoff, and possibly but unlikely an over-temperature cutoff, neither of these seem likely.

Symptoms do not match any common failure modes, assuming these have been reported accurately with no omissions.

Controller or motor, all that is left. Assuming you have disabled the ebrake sensors.

Swap parts till you find it.

Then, you can help others by reporting back your results. Most folks never do.
 
The simple fact that he did not do that in the first place should point you towards your answer. Also, virtually all warranties are parts only, with labor covered not at all or for a very brief time period.

So he will need to find out what specific part he wants a warranty return on, before attempting such a process.

It is also possible he would like it to work before next year rolls around.
 
ElHegpah said:
The simple fact that he did not do that in the first place should point you towards your answer. Also, virtually all warranties are parts only, with labor covered not at all or for a very brief time period.

So he will need to find out what specific part he wants a warranty return on, before attempting such a process.

It is also possible he would like it to work before next year rolls around.
Click to expand...
My approach would be to explain the problem to their customer service, and let them determine which part to send. If that doesn’t fix the problem, then they can send a different part.

Yeah, that takes a while, but at least it doesn’t take hundreds of dollars. He can ride his acoustic bike in the meantime.
 
You're joking, right?

They will have him do EXACTLY what I told him to do, to nail down the part or possible bad internal wiring. Assuming he gets to talk to anyone at all, in English, and again ASSUMING they will actually send a warranty part and not just tell him it is his fault.

Controller, or motor, or in-frame wiring.

He already has the parts. No additional expense at this point, and he will perform the process necessary to justify obtaining a warranty part if feasible.
 
I never did establish the fault, although I'm convinced it was the motor.
However, I started a warranty claim with Jetson and they could not have been more helpful. They asked and got the purchase receipt from me, then suggested they would send me a new bike provided I signed a 'disposal' agreement. This agreement wasn't too onerous - just environmentally dispose of the old bike and a promise not to sell or give it away.
I am now in receipt of the new Haze.
 
Mickand, my son crashed his Haze and we are looking for a new front wheel and front fork. No replacement parts are available from the manufacturer. Would you be willing to part out your old bike?
 
Mickand,

My son crashed his Haze and we are looking for a new front wheel and front fork. No replacement parts are available from the manufacturer. Would you be willing to part out your old biker
 

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