Is bigger better?

PjKahut

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Hi
We had 3 e-bikes but due to theft are looking to purchase a new one.
Bike number 1 has 27.5 wheels and bike number 2 is size 700c (no noticeable difference between them in terms of cycle quality)
For the new one I fancy a folding bike with 20 inch wheels and 4 inch tyre, trouble is I never tried one
So how are they on the road (it will be 95 % tarmac)
Any input appreciated
Thanks
 
I ride a folding ebike with 20x3 wheels......Lectric XP 2.0......I ride mostly paved roads....many hills and do about 4 to 7 miles every evening.....the bike rides smooth and comfortable.....I like pedaling so most of my riding is PA 1....some PA 2 on the hills.........very comfortable ride.
 
As far as I am concerned, I do not believe that bigger is better when it comes to this. Turning around can sometimes be more difficult if there is a larger space need.
 
Thanks.
So the rolling circumference of smaller wheels are not noticeable?
 
I think that you will find that the tire selection for the 700c and 650B wheels are better than for a 20”. The larger diameter also rolls over irregular surfaces more easily.
 
I ride a folding ebike with 20x3 wheels......Lectric XP 2.0......I ride mostly paved roads....many hills and do about 4 to 7 miles every evening.....the bike rides smooth and comfortable.....I like pedaling so most of my riding is PA 1....some PA 2 on the hills.........very comfortable ride.
Small world, Jerry.
 
I prefer 26x2.125 size tires, because it is easy to find 4mm thick puncture resistant tubes in that size. Unfortunately it is almost impossible to find an ebike with 26" wheels. Being disabled, I would not be able to repair a flat tire (that is also the reason I ride an ebike, as I can't pedal either) I have a RadCity 5+ with 27.5" tires, and was able to find 4mm thick tubes for it, but at several times the price of the 26" ones.
 
For anyone who is disabled I could not strongly enough recommend switching to tubeless. As long as your rims are 25 mm wide the conversion is easy just watch videos on YouTub or any bike shop can easily do it. It does also mean switching to tubeless tires. A mountain bike frame will easily allow the wider tires. A gravel has good puncture resistance or mountain bike tire although heavier has excellent puncture resistance. When the wheel is taped I can not strongly recommended enough to have removable core valve stems so you don’t have to break the tire seal to add more sealant.

So what are the benefits; 1. When you get a thorn or steel thread puncture …you just pull it out and keep riding….rarely do you have to put in air to continue. In Az my front Mountain bike tire has had 11 thorns and cactus needles removed in approx 1200 miles. After 18 mile rides I will see a small leakage from multiple past punctures but my air pressure is virtually unchanged. I also weigh 230 lbs. 2. Because tubeless require much lower pressure..I run 26 to 30 max. Your ride is much smoother and your braking is excellent

So what are the disadvantages other than the cost of converting. 1. This is temporary but important to know When tubeless are first mounted it can take up to 3 days for the sealant to seal the tires. So don’t be surprised if the first 2 or 3 days the tire is flat ov very low in the morning…..the sealing is best speeded up by riding the tires immediately and the rougher the road the better. 2. Tubeless require adding air every 3 days or so but usually only a couple of pounds.

No system is perfect from preventing flats but tubeless is as close as you can get.
 
For anyone who is disabled I could not strongly enough recommend switching to tubeless. As long as your rims are 25 mm wide the conversion is easy just watch videos on YouTub or any bike shop can easily do it. It does also mean switching to tubeless tires. A mountain bike frame will easily allow the wider tires. A gravel has good puncture resistance or mountain bike tire although heavier has excellent puncture resistance. When the wheel is taped I can not strongly recommended enough to have removable core valve stems so you don’t have to break the tire seal to add more sealant.

So what are the benefits; 1. When you get a thorn or steel thread puncture …you just pull it out and keep riding….rarely do you have to put in air to continue. In Az my front Mountain bike tire has had 11 thorns and cactus needles removed in approx 1200 miles. After 18 mile rides I will see a small leakage from multiple past punctures but my air pressure is virtually unchanged. I also weigh 230 lbs. 2. Because tubeless require much lower pressure..I run 26 to 30 max. Your ride is much smoother and your braking is excellent

So what are the disadvantages other than the cost of converting. 1. This is temporary but important to know When tubeless are first mounted it can take up to 3 days for the sealant to seal the tires. So don’t be surprised if the first 2 or 3 days the tire is flat ov very low in the morning…..the sealing is best speeded up by riding the tires immediately and the rougher the road the better. 2. Tubeless require adding air every 3 days or so but usually only a couple of pounds.

No system is perfect from preventing flats but tubeless is as close as you can get.
Good information, thanks for sharing with the forum.
 
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