iMortor Kit Getting Power, but Won't Respond - Solved

[Alt]

I've been an E-bike user for two weeks, so I know very little about them. I bought this kit used and the original battery was replaced with a DeWalt battery. The two wires going from battery to motor were spliced and were pulled apart then accidently put back together backwards briefly. (Positive to Negative) and it hasn't worked since so I'm worried it's fried.

Everything seems fine and connected properly but when I plug in the battery there is a spark which is much more powerful than it should be (like the wires are crossed) and the motor won't respond to the throttle. Throttle lights up like it should. I was hoping to find a fuse, but I've been unsuccessful so far.

Front wheel hub, I believe it's an iMortor 1.0

IMORTOR - SMART ELECTRIC FRONT BICYCLE WHEEL

Convert your bike into a powerful electric e-bike in with our iMortor E-bike Motor Convesrsion Kit Front Wheel. Replace your 20, 24, 26, 27.5, 28, 29 inch and 700c bike wheel for longer mileage and faster speed. with iMortor E-bike Motor Convesrsion Kit smart electric front bicycle wheel is...

www.imortor.org

Update: Okay, the problem ended up being a burnt out resistor from crossing wires located on the controller inside the wheel. For anyone else with a similar problem for the iMortor 1.0 App version, you need to replace the controller. But, for some reason, they 'updated the design' of the controller and now the wires are different. So on the new controller three of the wires, green, blue, and yellow, have a different plug that you will have to splice/solder/put plugs on to connect to the old wires. If yours is older like mine, you will also need to buy a new throttle, and get an adaptor cable to connect the new controller to the new throttle. You only need a new throttle and cable if the wire coming out of the wheel (the one to connect the wheel to the throttle) doesn't match your old throttle. The new one is a nine pin female plug, so I had to buy the adaptor and new five pin throttle. Wish they had told me that before waiting a month to get the new controller.



Controller: https://www.elecycles.com/imortor-controller.html
Throttle: https://www.elecycles.com/imortor-thumb-throttle.html
Cable: https://www.elecycles.com/imortor-waterproof-cable.html

 

[Anton]

Does the bike have a display of some sort? If so what does it say?

Another thing you can do is test the Dewalt battery with a multi meter to make sure you are getting the correct voltage.

Other than that the controller might be fried. You'd think the controller would have protection for polarity reversal. Here's a replacement controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32948111119.html

If you do get it going again and still want to use the non-standard battery, consider attaching plugs to the Dewalt battery, the Dewalt charger and the IMortor controller so that this can't happen again.

 

[Alt]

Does the bike have a display of some sort? If so what does it say?

Another thing you can do is test the Dewalt battery with a multi meter to make sure you are getting the correct voltage.

Other than that the controller might be fried. You'd think the controller would have protection for polarity reversal. Here's a replacement controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32948111119.html

If you do get it going again and still want to use the non-standard battery, consider attaching plugs to the Dewalt battery, the Dewalt charger and the IMortor controller so that this can't happen again.

No display I'm afraid, and I can't get the app to work. I did test the battery and it's fine. Getting power to the ends of the wires too. After much effort I got access to the controller, so I will try to replace that. Having trouble finding the exact one though. The plugs are different on the one you linked too. This is the only one I can find https://www.elecycles.com/imortor-controller.html

If this is what broke it, I'm shocked there are no preventative measures. :/ Even the plug that you are only supposed to be able to put in one way can go in wrong. I did it while trying to figure out what was wrong.

Thank you for your advice!

 

[Anton]

No display I'm afraid, and I can't get the app to work. I did test the battery and it's fine. Getting power to the ends of the wires too. After much effort I got access to the controller, so I will try to replace that. Having trouble finding the exact one though. The plugs are different on the one you linked too. This is the only one I can find https://www.elecycles.com/imortor-controller.html

If this is what broke it, I'm shocked there are no preventative measures. :/ Even the plug that you are only supposed to be able to put in one way can go in wrong. I did it while trying to figure out what was wrong.

Thank you for your advice!

Can you open up the screws on the controller? The fuse is likely inside the controller, if there is one. You'd hope that an ebike controller would have reverse polarity protection in the form of a fuse and a diode. It's a pretty simple feature really.

Glad you found a controller with the same plug types. Looks like there are a few versions so make sure you order the correct one.

It's a shame that the app doesn't work for you, that might tell you what the problem is.

I've uploaded the iMortor 3 manual here if it helps - https://ebikesforum.com/resources/imortor-3-0-manual.42/

 

[Alt]

Thank you for reminding me about a fuse. I had forgotten! There are screws on the controller, so I'll check that out tomorrow. I agree. That's such an easy preventative measure for something so easy to do by mistake.

Thank you!

 

[Anton]

No problems.

From what I've seen, the diode is usually installed in a reversed position across the negative and positive inputs. That way if the polarity of the battery is reversed, it creates a short and blows the fuse instantly. The advantage of wiring the diode this way, is that the voltage drop from the diode is avoided.

If anyone is interested in circuits, here's a schematic I found online which explains it.

Normal operation:

Reverse polarity:

Reference: imgur.com/a/IM8Jraj

 

[Alt]

You nailed it. I cracked open the controller and the first diode is burnt. It's too bad I can't simply replace that part.

 

[Anton]

I think you found your problem. It looks like there is no fuse at all.

The blown component looks more like a surface mount resistor than a diode. Does the circuit have any more components which look the same as the blown component with a white number written on top?

Types of resistors:


Types of diodes:

 

[HumanPerson]

I have a voilamart controller which looks similar to the one @Alt posted.

I'll take it apart tomorrow and see if they have the same look/setup

 

[HumanPerson]

Took that old voilamart controller apart and my resistors seem to be a bit different as far as markings

 

[HumanPerson]

After closer examination, the ones closer to my capacitors are marked 222
Then others all across the board with different numbers.

 

[Anton]

The purpose of the resistor is to lower the amperage and voltage to that part of the controller.

It's hard to tell exactly what the correct value of the resistor should be. Even if you replace it, there could be other components which are fried.

 

[Alt]

I think you found your problem. It looks like there is no fuse at all.

The blown component looks more like a surface mount resistor than a diode. Does the circuit have any more components which look the same as the blown component with a white number written on top?

Types of resistors:
View attachment 5355

Types of diodes:
View attachment 5354

So it does. I'm not seeing any others that look like that one, and no numbers to be seen on the blown one.